[Outboard Motors]
[From the U.S. Government Publishing Office, www.gpo.gov]

OUTBOARD
MOTORS
Document
Reserve
-Cu/. <2 7? ffl » WAR DEPARTMENT TECHNICAL MANUAL
NON-CIRCULATING
WAR DEPARTMENT • 30 JV ~E 1944
NTSU LIBRARY

WAR DEPAR T MEN T T EC HNI C A L M A N U A L
TM 5-2 7 8
This manual supersedes TM 5-8000, Outboard Motor (Model POLR-15 ), 25 November 1942;
and TM 5-8010, Motor, Outboard, 50 HP, Model 8008, 5-inch Shaft Extension, Evinrude Motors,
4 February 1943.
OUTBOARD
MOTORS
WAR D E P A R T M E N T • 3 0 JUNE 19 4 4
United States Government Printing Office
Washington : 1944
WAR DEPARTMENT,
Was hin gto n 25, D. C., 30 June, 1944.
TM 5-278, Outboard Motors, is published for the information and
guidance of all concerned.
[A.G. 300.7 (17 Dec 43)1
By ord er or the Secr etar y oe War :
G. C. MARSHALL,
Chief of Staff.
Off ici al :
J. A. ELIO,
Major General,
The Adjutant General.
Dist rib ut ion :
As prescribed in paragraph 9a, FM 21-6: Armies (10) ; Corps
(10) Sv C (10); Depts (10); D (2); I Bn 1 (5), 5 (15);
I C 5 (*); Boarcis (2) except Engr Board (25) ; Tech Sv (2),
except Chief of Engr (250) ; Arm and Sv ERTC (250) ; EUTC
(250).
I Bn 1: T/O & E 1-627, Regional Wea Conti Sg.
I Bn 1: T/O & E 5-275, Hv Pon Bn (Engr).
TC5 (10): T/O and E 5-87, Engr L Pon Ponton Co.
*1 C 5 (5): T/O and E, 5-627, Engr Treadwav Bridge Co;
5-277, Co, Engr Hv Pon Bn;
T/O 5-116, Hq and Hq & Sv Tr, Engr Sq;
5-215, Hq and Hq Co Armd Engr Bn.
For explanation of symbols, see FM 21-6.
For sale by the Superintendent of Documents, U. S. Government Printing Office, Washington 25, D. C.
II
CONTENTS
Paragraph Page
SECTION I. GENERAL
Purpose .................................................................................. 1 1
Scope ...................................................................................... 2 1
II. DESCRIPTION OF CUTBOARD MOTORS
General appearance and nomenclature........................... 3 2
Mechanical characteristics .................................................... 4 4
III. TECHNICAL APPLICATION
Carrying, installing, and removing storm-boat motor. 5 14
Installing POLR-15 motor.................................................... 6 21
Elementary outboard motor operation................................ 7 27
Where used ........................................................................... 8 29
Preparation for storage..................................... 9 29
Preparation for shipment.......................................................... 10 30
IV. STORM-BOAT MOTOR
Nomenclature ..................................................................... 11 31
Specification chart .................................................................... 12 32
Operating kit and motor chest................................................... 13 32
Starting instructions ................................................................. 14 32
Operating instructions ............................................................... 15 40
Demolition to prevent enemy use........................................... 16 45
Operating maintenance ............................................................. 17 46
Repair instructions..................................................................... 18 50
V. TROUBLE CHART 71
VI. POLR-15
Nomenclature POLR-15 ............................................... 19 75
Specification chart ................................................................ 20 76
Starting instructions ............................................................. 21 76
Operating instructions ......................................................... 22 82
Operating maintenance ......................................................... 23 85
Repair instructions .............................................................. 24 87
Recommended tools ............................................................. 25 111
APPENDIX I. STORM-BOAT MOTOR ILLUSTRATIONS 114
II. POLR MOTOR ILLUSTRATIONS 134
III

(This manual supersedes TM 5-8000, Outboard Motor (Model POLR-15), 25 November 194%;
and TM 5-8010, Motor, Outboard, 50 HP, Model 8008, 5-inch Shaft Extension, Evinrude Motors,
4 February 1943.)
SECTION I
GENERAL
1. Purpose
This manual provides basic information on the operation, maintenance,
and repair of outboard motors.
2. Scope
These instructions are published for the information and guidance of
the personnel to whom this equipment is assigned. They contain information
on the operation and maintenance of the equipment as well as
descriptions of the major units and their functions in relation to the
other components of the equipment. They apply only to the outboard
motor, 55-hp, Evinrude model 8008 and the outboard motor, 22-hp,
Johnson model POLR-15. The appendixes illustrate and name the
parts of the models discussed.
1
SECTION II
DESCRIPTION OF OUTBOARD MOTORS
POWER HEAD
SHAFT
PROPELLER
3. General Appearance and Nomenclature
a. An outboard motor is a power plant complete with engine, gasoline
supply, and starting apparatus. It is easily installed and detached from
the boat. All outboard motors have a powerhead, or engine, a drive
shaft extending downward into the water to drive the propeller, and a
propeller.
Figure 1. Simple diagram of outboard motor.
2
CRANKSHAFT FUEL TANK
CONNECTING-ROD
CARBURETOR
PISTON
CYLINDER
© Powerhead.
BEARING
DRIVE SHAFT
EXHAUST OUTLET
BEARING
TRANSMISSION GEARS
PROPELLER
PROPELLER SHAFT
BEARING
(2) Lower unit
Figure 2. Diagram showing main parts of powerhead and lower unit.
b. The motors discussed in this manual have two major assemblies:
the powerhead, mounted on the top, and the lower unit.
(1) The powerhead includes the cylinders, crankcase, crankshaft, pistons
and connecting-rod assemblies, muffler, magneto system, carburetor,
and fuel tank. It supplies the power to drive the propeller.
3
FLYWHEEL
.ROTARY VALVE ROTARY VALVE
FLYWHEEL
ROTARY VALVE
W
4
(2) As piston is moving downward on power stroke, it is at the same
time compressing the fuel vapors which have been admitted to crankcase
through the rotary valve. When piston reaches exhaust port, this
(2) The lower unit transmits the engine power to the propeller, and
includes the transmission gears, drive and propeller shafts, bearings,
water pump, exhaust outlet, propeller, and mounting bracket.
COMPRESSING GASES IN CYLINDER g FIRING CHARGE IN CYLINDER
A SUCKING FRESH GASES FROM CARBURETOR INTO CRANKCASE
4. Mechanical Characteristics
a. Genera l . The powerhead contains an internal-combustion engine.
The outboard motors used by the army operate on the two-stroke-cycle
principle, each cylinder having one port for intake and one for exhaust.
Two-cycle engines are considerably lighter per unit of power output
than four-cycle, since they have fewer parts and every piston has a
power stroke at each revolution instead of at every other revolution.
Light weight and compactness in an outboard motor are of prime
importance for ease in carrying, attaching, and operating.
b. Two -st ro ke -cycle Prin cip le . (1) The two-cycle engine (see fig.
3) operates as follows: when piston travels upward, a charge of fuel
vapor in cylinder is being compressed; at the same time a partial vacuum
is created in the crankcase. As piston progresses in its upward movement,
intake port from carburetor is opened by rotary valve in crankshaft
and fuel vapor is admitted to crankcase as in A, figure 3. At the end
of upward or compression stroke of the piston, as illustrated in B, figure
3, a spark plug ignites compressed fuel vapor in cylinder and rapid gas
expansion which follows, produces power by pushing piston on the
downward or power stroke C, figure 3.
Tt
EXPANSION IN CYLINDER
C COMPRESSION IN CRANKCASE
FLYWHEEL
.ROTARY VALVE V----- ~
_ EXHAUST BURNT GASES TRANSFERING
FRESH GASES FROM CRANKCASE TO CYLINDER
Figure 3. Two-stroke-cycle principle.
Figure 4- Engine surfaces lubricated by gasoline mixed with oil, indicated by arrows
(See table I.)
(c) The oil and gasoline must be measured accurately and mixed
in a separate container. Never attempt to mix oil and gasoline in the
port is uncovered and burnt gases pass into expansion chamber or muffler
and then out through underwater exhaust D, figure 3.
(3) After exhaust port opens, piston will uncover intake port and
admit to cylinder compressed fuel vapors from crankcase through
bypass from crankcase to cylinder intake port. Fuel vapors are directed
upward by deflector on piston head, as shown in D, figure 3. The continuous
succession of above cycles produces a constant, smooth flow
of power.
c. Lubrica tion . (1) The powerhead, (a) The most practical method
of lubricating the powerhead is by mixing lubricating oil with the
gasoline. The fuel vapors are introduced first into the crankcase where
the oil tends to separate from the gasoline vapor and lubricate the
crankshaft bearings and cylinder walls. The remaining oil enters the
cylinder with the precompressed fuel and oil mist, and lubricates the
cylinder walls and the piston and piston rings.
(t>) To insure efficient engine operation, the proper grade and amount
of oil must be mixed thoroughly with the gasoline. Too much oil or
too heavy a grade results in fouled spark plugs, stuck rings, and loss
of powers; too little oil or too light a grade causes excessive piston
and bearing wear, and overheating or serious scoring of the motor.
Detergent oils must not be used in two-cycle engines.
Table I. Correct gasoline and oil mixture
Motor
Fuel-tank
capacity
(pints)
Amount of oil
per gallon of
gasoline (pints)
Grade of oil
Storm boat .................... 28 1 SAE-50
POLR-15 ....................... 20 1 SAE-40
5
fU f
Figure 5. Pouring fuel into storm-boat motor gasoline tank
vTW*. .
■ ' v.
fuel tank. Be sure fuel system is free of moisture by disconnecting the
gas line below the carburetor to drain out dirt and water. Before putting
fuel into gas tank eliminate dirt by pouring the fuel through a fine
mesh strainer. _ .
(2) Lower unit, (a) Waterproof grease in the gear case lubricates
the gears, shafts, and bearings of the lower unit.
(b) The grease used for the lower unit of both motors grease, lubricating,
mineral, gear case, outboard motor. It is furnished in two sizes,
13-ounce Federal Stock No. 14-4458.5-13 and 1-pound Federal Stock
No. 14-4458.5-16. It will not become soft enough to leak past the bearings
in warm weather; nor so hard and stiff that it fails to flow or prevents
starting in extreme cold.
6
in air.
Figure C>. Surfaces lubricated by grease in gear case, indicated by arrows.
d. Fuel Sys te m . (1) Gas tank. Oil is added to gasoline as explained
in paragraph 4c (1). The fuel line from the gasoline tank connects to
the bottom of the carburetor.
(2) Carbzcretor. (a) The carburetor mixes the gas-oil fuel and air
in the proper proportion to form a combustible mixture and supplies
this mixture to the crankcase each time the rotary valve opens. Proper
carburetion is vital to the starting, lubrication, and efficient operation
of the motor.
(b) The flow of gasoline into the carburetor float chamber is regulated
by a float valve. When the piston travels upward a vacuum is
created in the crankcase and air is drawn into the crankcase through the
carburetor venturi tube. Projecting into this venturi tube are nozzles
which supply liquid fuel through small jets. As the air passes these jets,
the fuel is atomized to form a combustible mixture of small drops of
fuel suspended
GREASE
CAVITY
7
HIGH SPEED ADJUSTING LEVER
FLOAT BOWL a NOZZLE
COVER ASSEMBLY
HIGH SPEED ADJUSTING
NEEDLE ASSEMBLY -INLET NEEDLE ASSEMBLY
CHANNEL PLUG
FUEL PASSAGE PLUG
NOZZLE --------------
VENTURI SPRING
FLOAT
Figure 7. Main parts of carburetor.
FUEL PIPE
CONNECTOR
CARB. BODY
AND PLUG
ASSEMBLY
STRAINER
SCREEN
STRAINER
BODY
FLOAT CLIP
STRAINER HOUSING
RETAINING SCREW
13) Fuel mixtures. A normal fuel mixture is one at which the motor
performs properly throughout the speed range. A mixture is rich when
the proportion of fuel to air is more than required; lean when the
proportion of fuel to air is less than normal.
e. Ignit ion Sys tem . (1) Magneto, (a) In an outboard motor,
electric current is generated by a magneto, and starting is done by hand.
The magneto consists essentially of two parts; a permanent magnet
to supply the field, and a winding in which the current is generated.
On outboard motors this permanent magnet is built into the flywheel,
and the ignition coil, condenser, and breaker points are mounted on
an armature plate.
(5) The operation of the magneto is extremely simple. As the poles
of the magnet pass over the heels of the coil, a magnetic field is built
up within the coil core and current flows through the primary winding.
At the proper time, the breaker points are separated by a cam, thus
breaking the primary circuit and causing the magnetic field within the
coil core to break down instantly. An electrical current of high voltage
thus is induced in the fine secondary windings of the coil and is carried
to the spark plug, where it jumps the gap between the points of the plug
to ignite the compressed charge in the cylinder.
(2) Spark plugs. The outboard motors described in this manual
usually operate at not less than 4,000 rpm to develop their rated
horsepower. Because of this extremely high rate of speed, the demands
on the spark plugs are severe. Spark plugs must be kept in the best
possible condition. The electrodes must be adjusted to the proper gap
8
COIL HEELS
LEADS TO SPARK PLUGS
IGNITION COIL
GROUND
BREAKER POINTS
BREAKER ARM
BREAKER PLATE
PRIMARY GROUND LEAD
PRIMARY GROUND PLUG
MAGNETO LEVER
Figure 8. Main parts of magneto armature plat*
for the
BREAKER POINT
ADJUSTING SCREW
distance of .020 of an inch for the storm-boat motor and
POLR-15 motor. Any tendency toward fouling is revealed by a black
gummy deposit on the insulator inside the plug. Such fouling may result
from operation of the motor at slow speeds for long periods, from the
use of more oil in the gasoline than recommended, from using the wrong
type of oil or the wrong type of spark plug. Champion R-7 plugs are
recommended for both motors.
/. Cool ing Sys te m . (1) The storm-boat motor and the POLR-15
have water-cooled engines. The cylinders have water jackets through
which outside water is circulated to keep the cylinders cool. On the
storm-boat motor a centrifugal pump forces water up from a submerged
passage in the lower unit through the cylinder jackets. The coolingsystem
of the POLR-15 operates on the pressure-vacuum principle.
Water under pressure from the backs of the propeller blades is picked
9
BREAKER POINT CAM
MAGNET
HUB
into the
channel
INSPECTION
PORT
| MAGNET
POLE SHOES
parts of magneto armature plate—Continued.
and forced through the water passages
Figure 8. Main
a water scoop -
jackets. The discharge is conducted through a second
up by
water
or pipe and emitted from the water-outlet scoop in the gear case. See
figures 33 and 79 for location of water inlets and water scoop.
(2) At slow motor speeds, pressure of the water on the back of the
propeller blades may not be great enough to force it through the channels
and water jackets. Efficient cooling still is maintained, however,
by the suction created by water discharging through the return channels.
Since, at slow speeds, cooling depends on both pressure and
vacuum it is important that immediately after starting, the motor be
speeded up for an instant to fill water jackets. Failure to do this may
result in overheating and possibly scoring cylinder walls and pistons.
g. Pist ons , Con nec tin g Rod , an d Cranks haf t . (1) Piston, (a)
Outboard motor pistons are made of an aluminum alloy. On top of the
piston is a deflector which directs the incoming fuel mixture upward into
cylinder and away from exhaust port, as shown by figure 3.
(b) Grooves at the top of piston contain the piston rings. The rings
hold the compression in the cylinder by eliminating or reducing the
clearance between piston and cylinder walls. The fit on the sides of
the rings and on the grooves must be accurate and conform to specification
to insure efficient operation.
(2) Connecting rod. The piston contains two reamed holes in which
io
the wrist pin is fitted. The pin also passes through a hole in the end
of the connecting rod and is fitted to allow the piston to move freely.
(3) Crankshaft. The larger end of the connecting rod fastens to the
crankshaft by a roller bearing which permits crankshaft to rotate freely.
The rotary motion is caused by the reciprocating, or up and down,
motion of the piston.
CYLINDER HEAD
AND PLUG
ASSEMBLY
PISTON PIN
PISTON
RINGS
CONNECTING ROD
ROLLER RETAINER
CYLINDER HEAD
GASKET
CONNECTING ROD
SCREW
SPARK PLUG
GASKET
SPARK
PLUG
CONNECTING ROD
ASSEMBLY
CONNECTING ROD
ROLLER
CYLINDER AND'.
STUD ASSEMBLY
Figure 9. Main paris oj storm-boat motor cylinder.
h. Rotary Valv e . (1) General. The rotary valve which is a part
of the crankshaft admits the fuel vapor mixture from the carburetor
into the crankcase. This mixture from the carburetor is admitted to the
rotary valve through a port in the crankcase. A passageway through
the rotary valve continues the opening to a cutaway section of the
crankshaft which provides the actual opening into the crankcase. Thus,
for about half of each revolution the passageway to the crankcase is
opened for the admission of fuel mixture. At all other times the passageway
is closed due to rotary valve being closed.
12) Rotary valve openings for two- and four-cylinder two-cycle
engines. Only one opening in the valve is required for two-cylinder
engines. For four-cylinder engines, one opening into the upper crankcase
for the upper two cylinders and one opening into the lower crankcase
for the other two are required. The center section of the crankshaft
is so shaped as to serve as the rotary valve so one set of cylinders is
taking fuel while the other is making the power stroke. The openings
from the housing to the valve must be made so both sets of cylinders
receive equal amounts of fuel.
i. Prope llers . Diameter, pitch, and slip. Propellers have two or
three blades, depending on the nature of the service they are to do.
The size of a propeller is given in diameter and pitch.
11
PISTON
CYLINDER HEAD
STUD
ANTI-CAVITATION PLATE
Figure 10. Anti-cavitation plate.
(1) Diameter of a two-blade propeller is the distance from the tip of
one blade to the tip of the other. The diameter of the two- or threeblade
type is the diameter of the circle described by the tips of the
blades.
(2) Pitch is the distance forward or back the propeller would travel
in one revolution if the water were a solid. Thus, theoretically, a 12-
inch-pitch propeller would advance 12 inches in one complete turn
through a solid.
(3) Slip is the difference between the actual and theoretical pitch
of the propeller caused by the fact that water, not being a solid, permits
the propeller to slip. Slippage normally varies from 20 to 40 percent,
depending upon the efficiency and speed of the propeller. In general,
heavy boats or loads require propellers with greater diameter and blade
area and less pitch than the propellers used on light, fast boats. A
12- by 14-inch propeller has a 12-inch diameter and a 14-inch pitch.
j. Cavit atio n . The formation of a vacuum at the propeller is known
as cavitation and occurs when a pocket of air has been sucked down
by the propeller, causing it to spin in the air bubble and causing the
engine to race. This action usually is caused by using a propeller of
too great pitch, which keeps the motor from running at its most efficient
speed and causes the water to be pushed aside faster than it flows in.
This can be corrected by selection of a smaller-pitch propeller. Outboard
motors have an anticavitation plate, as shown in figure 10, to
12
prevent such a downward suction of air. If the propeller is known to be
correct, then cavitation is caused by the propeller operating too near
the surface of the water, by air formations caused by the construction
of the boat itself, or by weeds wrapped around the propeller or the lower
unit.
k. Low er -uni t Gear s . The lower-unit gears or transmission consists
essentially of a pair of bevel gears which transmit the power from
the drive shaft to the propeller shaft. The pinion gear is keyed to the
drive shaft and turns the horizontal gear which is keyed to the propeller
shaft. The revolution reduction ratio of the drive shaft to the propeller
shaft is set by this pair of gears.
13
SECTION III
TECHNICAL APPLICATION
5. Carrying, Installing, and Removing Storm-Boat Motor
a. Carryi ng . Two combination carrying bars and paddles are provided
for carrying the storm-boat motor. The bars are inserted through
sockets in the hand grips on each side of the motor, with the circular
paddles at the flywheel end of the motor which is carried as shown in
figure 11.
b. Ins ta llin g on Boat . The motor can be used only on the storm
boat. It is carried into the boat as shown in figure 13. The motor has
a special stern bracket for mounting it on the boat. This bracket has
two prongs which fit into motor-mount-plates on the floor of the boat
Figure 11. Carrying storm-boat motor.
14
Figure 12. Storm boat with motor.
Figure 13. Carrying motor into boat.
15
Figure 14. Placing motor in boat
and also has a thrust socket which fits into a slot cut in the back of
the transom. The prongs of the bracket are locked into position with
pins. These pins are inserted into the motor-mount-plates as illustrated
in figures 15 and 16. The carrying bars are removed and the motor is
laid down inboard as shown in figure 14. Prior to raising the motor
make sure the boat is in water deep enough for ample propeller clearance.
Raise the motor and move it slowly to position on the stern of
the boat and lock the tilt-lock (see fig. 19).
c. Remov ing . (1) Storm-boat motor from boat. To remove the
motor from the boat, shut the air vent in the cap of the gasoline tank
and shut off the gasoline. (See figs. 35 and 36.) Pull the motor inboard
as illustrated in figure 18 raising the tilt-lock as shown in figure 19.
Before laying the motor down inboard let the water drain completely
from the water system by holding the motor with the power head tilted
up. Turn flywheel one turn to make sure. Remove the cotter pins and
pull out the fulcrum pins. The carrying bars then are inserted and
the motor is carried in the same position as illustrated in figure 11.
(2) POLR-15 from boat. To remove the motor, loosen the clamp
screws and lifting the motor straight up hold it in a vertical position
until all the water has drained from the water system. Never set the
motor on the magneto or flywheel or carry it with the flywheel down
as this may allow water to enter the powerhead.
16
Figure 16. Inserting cotter pins.
Figure 15. Attaching bipod by inserting fulcrum pins.
17
Figure 17. Placing motor on stern.
18
Figure IS. Pulling motor inboard.
19
TILT-LOCK UP
(T) Raising tilt-lock.
TILT-LOCK LOCKED
© Tilt-lock locked.
Figure 19.
20
Si®
Figure 20. POLR-15 mounted on boat. Keep both, clamps tight
Figure 21. When propeller is tilted too far away from stern, bow is high in the water.
6. Installing POLR—15 Motor
a. On Boat . (1) The motor is mounted on the stern of the boat
so the line of the propeller drive shaft is parallel to the line of boat
travel. Correction of the line of the propeller drive is made by adjusting
the thrust socket.
(2) Hang the motor on the stern of the boat and tighten the clamp
screws by hand. Tilt the motor to the estimated angle and loosen
the thrust-socket nut. Slide the thrust socket up on the quadrants until
it rests firmly against the drive-shaft housing. Tighten the thrust-socket
unit. Start the motor and operate at full throttle. If the boat has a
tendency to ride with the bow high out of the water, the propeller is
tilted too far away from the stern. The angle of drive, being directed
downward, results in a downward thrust on the stern, thus raising
the bow.
21
Figure 23. Tightening thrust-socket nut after line of p.
peller drive is adjusted correctly.
(3) If the propeller is tilted too close to the stern the boat is hard
to control, as the bow will dig in or plow into the water. This is due
to the upward thrust exerted on the stern. With the load in the boat
evenly distributed, the thrust socket should be adjusted so the line of
the propeller drive is parallel to the surface of the water when the motor
is at full throttle.
(4) When the lower unit strikes an underwater obstruction, the motor
tilts as shown in figure 24 to prevent damage to the boat and motor.
22
Figure 22. TF/ien propeller is tilted too close to stern, bow is low in the water.
Figure 2^. Action of motor upon hitting obstruction.
Ten-ton ponton.
Twenty-five-ton ponton
Assault boat Ml.
Assault boat M2.
Treadway bridge float.
Infantry support raft.
b. On Various Typ es of Floating Equip ment . Figures 25 to 30
inclusive show how the POLR-15 is attached to—
23
Figure 26. POLR-15 attached to 25-ton ponton with 25-ton ponton 22-hp outboard
motor stern attachment bracket.
Figure 25. POLR-15 attached to 10-ton ponton with 10-ton ponton 22-hp outboard
motor stern attachment bracket.
24
Figure 27. POLR-1-5 attached to Ml assault boat
25
Figure 28. POLR-15 attached to M2 assault boat with M2 assault boat, 22-hp
outboard motor stern attachment bracket.
26
Figure 30. Outboard motor attached to infantry raft using M2 assault-boat bracket.
7. Elementary Outboard Motor Operation
a. Steerin g . Steering is done with the left hand. The operator faces
the bow of the boat with the motor to his left as shown in figure 31.
The craft is steered by moving the steering handle to the right or left.
If the operator wishes to make the boat turn to the left, he moves the
Figure 29. POLR-15 attached to treadway bridge float with Ml 18-ton pneumatic
float, 22-hp outboard motor stern attachment bracket.
27
Figure 31. Operator’s position in storm boat. (Kneel on left knee, right foot forward,
right hand on gunwale and left hand holding the throttle control on steering
handle.)
handle toward him, or to the right. To make a right turn he moves the
handle away from him, or to the left. The motor pivots so the direction
of boat travel is governed by the propeller thrust. This gives the operator
full control of the boat from the time the motor is started.
b. Dockin g . In docking, the boat is brought in parallel to the dock,
if possible, heading into the wind or current, whichever has the greater
effect on the boat’s course. In docking where the landing room is
limited, the boat is brought toward the dock at a right angle to it. A
short distance from the dock a 90° turn into the wind or current is
made and the motor shut off. The boat will drift broadside into the
dock. The distance from the dock at which the turn is made depends
on the type of boat and the speed it is making.
c. Reve rs e . The POLR-15 can be pivoted 360°. It is reversed by
raising the steering handle and turning the motor 180° to reverse position.
The speed of the motor should be reduced before pivoting the
motor to reverse position. The motor does not tilt when in reverse, so
particular care must be taken to avoid striking submerged obstructions.
d. Beac hin g Stor m Boat . The boat may be beached at full throttle
on banks having gentle slopes. The motor is stopped by the operator
immediately before the skeg or the bow of the boat grounds. This
depends on the depth of water near the bank. The boat is headed
28
Figure 32. Beaching storm boat under power. (Note position of passengers. The
operator has moved out of the way of the motor which is tilting inboard.)
directly into the beach so the bow will ground squarely. If the boat
slants as it grounds, it will swerve and possibly tilt over.
8. Where Used
Outboard motors are used to propel boats, pontons, and rafts on sheltered
waterways. They can be used only in water deep enough to
accommodate the propeller. Underwater obstructions may damage the
propeller or shear pin, and entangled weeds may cut down the propeller’s
efficiency.
9. Preparation for Storage
a. Limit ed Stor age , 30 Days or Les s . Before the motor is placed
in storage, do the following:
(1) Drain all fuel from gas tank, gas line, and carburetor.
(2) Remove and clean carburetor and gas-tank screens.
(3) Remove grease and drain plugs to allow water in the gear case
and cooling system to drain off. Rock the motor from side to side while
it is in an upright position to make sure all water has been drained.
If the motor has been operated in salt water, flush the cooling system
with fresh water.
(4) Refill gear case with Evinrude Super Grease or Johnson Sea-
Horse Lubricant.
(5) Remove spark plugs. Pour about a tablespoon of clean oil
through each spark-plug opening. Turn flywheel slowly to distribute oil
on cylinder walls and replace spark plugs.
(6) The motor should be placed in an upright position in its motor
chest or hung on a rack similar to the manner in which it is mounted
on the boat.
b. Dead Stora ge . Refer to TM 5-9715, copies of which may be
obtained from Engineer Field Maintenance Office, P. 0. Box 1679,
Columbus, Ohio.
29
10. Preparation for Shipment
a. By Rail or Truck . Follow the instructions contained in paragraph
9 above.
b. Expor t . Refer to TB 5-9711-1, copies of which may be obtained
from Engineer Field Maintenance Office, P. 0. Box 1679, Columbus,
Ohio.
30
SECTION IV
STORM-BOAT MOTOR
11. Nomenclature
AIR VENT SCREW
FUEL FILLER CAP
ARMATURE PLATE
FUEL TANK
CYLINDER HEAD
MAGNETO
H.T. CABLES
SPARK BOOSTER
- FLYWHEEL NUT
STARTER DRUM
FLYWHEEL
GEAR HOUSING
Figure 33. General nomenclature, storm-boat motor.
MUFFLER
INLET WATER ELBOW
INLET WATER PIPE
TILT-UP BOLT &
TILT-UP HOOK
WATER OUTLET -------
MUFFLER TUBE -------
WATER PIPE CONNECTOR
DRIVE HOUSING
GEAR HOUSING NUTS
EXHAUST OUTLET
PROPELLER
TIMER CONTROL HANDLE
----------PRIMER
CARBURETOR LEVER
SPARK PLUG COVER &
CARRYING HANDLE SOCKET
MOTOR HOOD
INSTRUCTION PLATE
STEERING HANDLE SUPPORT
HROTTLE CONTROL
STEERING HANDLE
PIVOT BEARING
BIPOD
DRIVE HOUSING CLAMP SCREWS
ANTI-CAVITATION PLATE
WATER INLETS
31
12. Specification Chart
Table II. Specification chart, storm-boat motor
Bore .......................................................................................
Stroke .....................................................................................
Piston displacement..............................................................
Horsepower..................................................... .......................
Number of cylinders..............................................................
Bevel gear ratio: motor to propeller....................................
Propeller as supplied with motor:
Number of blades...........................................................
Material ...........................................................................
Diameter and pitch.........................................................
Fuel-tank capacity ................................................................
Make carburetor....................................................................
Cooling system .....................................................................
Weight, net ............................................................................
Over-all dimensions, omitting steering handle.....................
2% in.
2% in.
59.4 cu. in.
50 at 5,500 rpm.
4.
15:21.
3.
Bronze.
10% by 9 in.
28 pints.
Vacturi.
Centrifugal water pump.
198 lb.
22y2 by 24% by 52 in.
13. Operating Kit and Motor Chest
a. Oper atin g Kit . The operating kit that comes with each stormboat
motor contains tools for emergency repairs and adjustments and
also an emergency set of spare parts. When the boat is in use the
operating kit always is carried in it.
b. Moto r Chest . Figure 34 illustrates how the motor, kit, spare
parts, and carrying handles are packed for shipment or storage. The
motor and equipment are fastened in the motor chest by thumb screws
and straps. No tools are required to remove them.
14. Starting Instructions
When ready to start the motor, proceed with the operations listed on
the motor instruction plate in the order shown below.
a. Mix one pint SAE No. 50 lubricating oil with each gallon of gasoline
and fill tank.
b. Open vent screw on gas-tank cap (fig. 35).
c. Open gas cock under tank (fig. 36).
d. Set carburetor lever to “cold” (fig. 37).
e. Set timer lever to “start” (fig. 38).
f. Set steering grip to “start” (fig. 39).
g. Wrap rope on flywheel (fig. 40).
h. Push primer five times (fig. 41). If motor has been run and is hot,
prime sparingly or not at all.
i. Spin flywheel with strong pull (fig. 42).
j. When started, move timer to “run” and turn steering grip toward
“fast.”
k. With throttle wide open adjust carburetor lever toward “warm”
until motor runs smoothly.
I. Motor is stopped by moving timer handle to the position marked
“stop” (all the way to left, as you face motor). (See fig. 43.)
32
CANVAS MOTOR COVER
FUNNEL
PADDLECARRYING
HANDLE
GASOLINE
(2 SUPPLIED) FUEL CAN
OPERATOR'S
TOOL KIT
Figure 34- Storm-boat motor in motor chest. (Over-all dimensions
of motor chest are 81 by 36 by 35 inches and total shipping
weight of chest, motor, and accessories is 650 pounds.)
SPARE
PROPELLER
33
Figure 35. Open vent screw on gas-tank cap to allow air
to enter tank permitting gasoline to flow from tank.
34
(i) Closed position.
(2) Open position.
Figure 36. Open gas cock under tank to permit gasoline to flow to carburetor.
35
Figure 37. Set carburetor lever to “cold” to furnish a richer gasoline and
air mixture for starting.
Figure 38. Set timer lever to “start” to retard spark and thus
prevent back firing.
36
Figure 40- Wrap starting cord clockwise around starting drum
placing knot of cord in notch of drum.
Figure 39. Set steering grip to “start" to give correct throttle adjustment for
starting.
37
Figure 41. Push primer five times to inject a supply of fuel into
crankcase for starting. (Don’t prime a hot motor.)
38
Figure 42. Spin flywheel. (Grasp starting cord as shown and spin flywheel with a
sustained, strong pull. Do not jerk rope. Note operator’s position.)
39
I II
i Figure 43. To stop motor, move timer handle to “stop.
15. Operating Instructions
a. (1) Thre e Fundame ntals of Oper ati on . There are three fundamentals
in the operation of an outboard motor. Know what they mean
and keep them in mind constantly. Learn how to find out whether and
how well these fundamentals are fulfilled. They are:
(a) The proper mixture of gasoline-vapor and air in the cylinder.
(b) The compression of this mixture in the cylinder by the piston.
(c) A hot electric spark across the electrodes of the spark plug at
the right time. .
(2) Given a proper mixture, good compression, and hot spark, barring
minor mechanical difficulties the motor will run and deliver power.
b. Carbu ret or Adju st ment . After the motor has started and the
timer advanced to “run” the carburetor needle lever is turned toward
“warm” until the motor operates smoothly. This should be done when
the throttle is wide open. The best adjustment is found by moving the
carburetor needle lever toward “warm” until the speed starts to drop
off, and toward “cold” until the motor begins to run unevenly. Select a
position about halfway between these two extremes, but favor the rich
or “cold” side.
c. Timer -hand le Settin g . The motor has a maximum sparkadvance
stop which is set for the most common fuels. As some fuels do
not permit an early spark setting, not retarding the spark may result
in pre-ignition, overheating of the spark plugs, and burning of the
pistons. When the engine has been brought to full speed by advancing
the timer handle against the stop and opening the throttle fully, the
timer handle is retarded as far as possible without reducing the speed.
40
a run
Figure 44- Idle-speed adjustment. (Turn needle clockwise for leaner mixtur
counterclockwise for richer mixture.)
The difference in timer setting due to difference in fuels usually falls in
a range between full advance, against the stop, and two notches to the
left of the stop.
d. Idle Fue l Adjustme nt . The idle-speed jet may need adjustment
due to varying atmospheric conditions. This is done by turning the
idle-speed adjusting needle with screw
driver, as shown in figure 44.
The needle is moved clockwise for a leaner mixture and counterclockwise
for a richer mixture. These adjustments are made with the throttle
closed. Turn the needle until the motor idles smoothly without stopping.
Then open the throttle and check the speed of the motor. If the speed
is less than before the adjustment, close the throttle and adjust the idlespeed
needle again. Repeat until the motor runs smoothly with throttle
closed, yet still retains its maximum speed at full throttle.
e. Floo ding . If the motor becomes flooded, move the carburetor
high-speed needle to the “off” position and crank the motor until it
starts. Immediately open the high-speed needle to the “run” position.
If the motor starts and then dies, start it again by following the starting
instructions.
/. Spa rk Boost er . A spark booster is located on the left spark-plug
cover. It is used if condensation or corrosion on the spark-plug points
makes the motor hard to start. By pulling the button out and cranking
41
Figure 44. Idle-speed adjustment. (Turn needle clockwise for leaner
mixture; counterclockwise for richer mixture.)—Continued.
the motor the entire magneto spark is sent to the two spark plugs on
the opposite side of the motor. (See fig. 45.) Usually this will break
through plug condensation or corrosion. Push the button in immediately
after the motor starts. The use of this booster does not affect the other
starting operations.
g. Saf ety Shear Pin . (1) One of the safety features of the motor
is the shear pin in the propeller. This pin shears off whenever the propeller
strikes an obstruction with sufficient force. When this occurs, the
motor races and should be shut off immediately. A new pin is installed
as follows:
(a) Close gasoline shut-off and vent screw.
(b) Pull motor inboard.
(c) Remove cotter pin.
(d) Remove propeller nut and washer.
(e) Remove propeller.
(/) Drive out old shear pin.
(2) Replace the old pin with one of the spare pins found in the operating
kit, and assemble the parts in reverse order. Replace the cotter
pin.
h. Prop elle r . If the propeller blades are damaged or bent a new
propeller should be installed. Bent propellers cause hard starting, vibration,
and unnecessary wear on the bearings and gears of the lower unit.
Propeller blades not damaged too badly may be straightened as described
in paragraph 18r.
42
Figure 46. Remove cotter pin preparatory to detaching propeller
Figure 45. Spark booster. (Pull button out to send entire magneto
spark to the two plugs on
opposite side of motor to break
through plug corrosion or condensation.
43
Figure 47• Remove propeller nut using open-end wrench.
Figure 48. Remove propeller from propeller shaft
44
Figure 49. To drive out shear pin, use drift punch and hammer.
i. Faul ty Spa rk Plugs . When the motor is receiving proper carburetion
but still runs unevenly, check to see if all spark plugs are
firing. This is determined by stopping the motor and feeling the base
of each spark plug. If warm, the plug has been firing. If cold, it should
be replaced with a clean plug. The carburetor requires high-speed
readjusting when the motor is started again. A iping the outside of
spark-plug porcelains helps keep the plugs in good firing condition.
j. Moto r Drop ped Overb oard . If a motor has been dropped overboard
it should be recovered as soon as possible. Water left inside a
motor for even a few hours damages the internal parts. Until it has
been overhauled do not attempt to start a motor that has been submerged.
How to remove the water, and clean the motor is described
in paragraph 18r.
16. Demolition to Prevent Enemy Use
a. Gene ra l . Each operator must know how to destroy these motors
when their capture is imminent to prevent their use by the enemy.
When there is not enough time to destroy the motor completely, give
priority to essential parts most difficult to replace. The same parts are
destroyed on all like units to prevent cannibalization. All spare parts
carried for maintenance must be destroyed also.
b. Metho ds . The following methods may be used singly or in combination:
(1) Mechanical. Destroy auxiliary equipment with an ax, pick,
sledge, or rifle butt. Make certain that the carburetor, starter drum,
flywheel, and armature plate are damaged beyond repair. Heavy
sledge blows on the cylinder head and the gear housing of the lower
unit will make the motor inoperative.
(2) Explosives. Detonate a %-pound charge placed between the
cylinder head and the flywheel.
45
(3) Weapons fire. Use hand and rifle grenades, antitank rockets, or
machine-gun fire.
(4) Fire. Puncture gasoline tank, pour other available fuel over
motor, and ignite.
(5) Water. Drop motor in water deep enough to prevent recovery.
17. Operating Maintenance
a. General . The using arm personnel do first and second echelon
maintenance. This maintenance includes lubrication, the making of
minor repairs and adjustments, and the replacement of such parts
as spark plugs, propellers, and shear pins. Pistons rings also may be
replaced if the necessary tools and equipment are available.
b. Lubricat ion . (1) Powerhead. See paragraph 3c.
(2) Lower unit, (a) Check gear housing daily if motor is being used
and put in more grease if needed. Place motor in upright position.
Remove grease plug in upper opening and drain plug in lower opening.
If grease does not flow from lower opening more is required. Place
grease gun or tube in upper opening and force in lubricant until it
flows from lower opening.
Figure 50. Lubricating gear housing using waterproof grease. (Fill
until grease flows from drain opening.)
(b) Replace plugs, making certain they are tightened securely.
Change the grease in gear housing every 50-hours of operation.
(c) Before storing or shipping the motor, remove drain and grease
plugs to allow water in grease housing to drain off. This prevents bursting
of gear housing from freezing and eliminates danger of corrosion.
46
c. Ope rato r Main ten an ce . To insure dependable starting and performance
the motor is checked after every operation. Minor repairs that
might give trouble during the next period of motor operation are found
and corrected. The motor must be ready for service at all times. After
every operation—
(1) Drain motor thoroughly by keeping it upright until all water
has drained from the cooling system, muffler, and driveshaft housing.
(2) Drain water from gear housing and fill with recommended waterproof
gear grease. Remove propeller and inspect for damaged blades.
Replace propeller if necessary. Inspect shear pin and, if damaged, replace
with new pin.
(3) Clean gasoline filter screen in carburetor and gasoline tank.
Occasionally disconnect gas line below carburetor to drain out dirt and
water. Check for gasoline leaks.
(4) Remove, inspect, and clean spark plugs. Replace if necessary.
(5) (a) Test spark-plug wires. While spark plugs are out, ground
all spark-plug wires except the one being tested. Hold this wire about
Vi inch from cylinder and rotate flywheel in the direction the motor
runs, observing spark jumping from the wire to the cylinder. If the
spark seems fairly strong it is sufficient to operate. Test each sparkplug
wire the same way. Each wire should produce an equal spark.
(b) Make certain all spark-plug wire terminals are in good condition.
(c) Check plug ignition points for proper gap of .020 inches and adjust
and clean if necessary. Points covered with oil produce a weak
spark or none. Wipe the points with a clean cloth or clean with fine
sandpaper to remove oil and carbon deposits.
16) Replace spark plugs in cylinders.
(7) Tighten all bolts, nuts, and screws.
(8) Drain gasoline tank and carburetor.
Figure 51. Using screw driver to adjust ignition points to
.020 inch.
47
48
Figure 52. Armature base.
Figure 53. Checking ignition-point gap with gap gauge
(9) (a) At least once a week, if the motor is not being used, put it
in a water-filled outboard motor testing tank. Run motor and check
to see it is in perfect condition and that all cylinders are firing properly.
(b) If motor fails to start or to run properly check back on carburetion,
ignition, crankcase, and pistons until the trouble is located and
corrected.
(c) Check operating kit and replace all missing items.
(d) Report all necessary major *repairs.
d. Salt Wate r Oper atio ns . When motor has been used in salt
water, wash the outside of the lower unit with fresh water and wipe
with an oiled cloth. Flush cooling system with fresh water from a tap
or by running motor in a tank or a fresh-water stream.
e. Clea nin g and Adjus ting Break er Poin ts . (1) Examine points
by removing starter-rope drum and inspecting points through inspection
hole. Points should be clean and not pitted. Clean with a fine sandpaper
(not emery). The flex-stone listed in first echelon spare parts
may be used. Fold paper double and draw it back and forth between
points. If points are in bad condition, replace them.
(2) No wrenches are needed for adjusting point gap. Points are. set
through inspection hole in flywheel. Adjust points with a screw driver
(see fig. 51) by loosening screw on breaker plate (see C, fig. 52), then
shifting plate until maximum clearance of .020 inch is reached. Gap
gauge is furnished with operating kit. Use gauge as shown in figure 53.
Replace starter-rope drum.
j. Trou ble Shooti ng . See section V.
49
18. Repair Instructions for Third and Higher Echelons
a. Gene ral . This part of the manual contains detailed instructions
on making the motor repairs and the replacement of parts that are done
by third and higher echelons. These operations require the special tools
and equipment listed in paragraph 25.
PROPELLER
GEAR HOUSING CAP SCREW
STEERING HANDLE SUPPORT
DRIVE SHAFT TUBE
PIVOT BEARING
UPPER DRIVE
DRIVE HSG. CLAMP SCREW
DRIVE HOUSING
DRIVE SHAFT COUPLER
WATER PUMP IMPELLER
DRIVE SHAFT GREASE SEAL
LOWER DRIVE SHAFT
DRIVE SHAFT BUSHING UPPER
GEAR HOUSING
DRIVE SHAFT BL
DRIVE SHAFT ROLLER BEARING
DRIVE SHAFT GEAR ----------—
PROPELLER SHAFT THRUST -----
ROLLER BEARING
PROPELLER SHAFT GEAR
DRIVE SHAFT THRUST BEARING
TIMER HANDLE
CRANKSHAFT
UPPER
PISTON PIN SPRING RING
PISTON PIN
CENTER BEARING
CRANK SHAFT
CONNECTING ROD SCREW
CONNECTING
CYLINDER HD. STUD & NUT
SPARK BOOSTER
SPARK PLUG
PISTON
PISTON RING
CRANKSHAFT BALL BRG.
"LOWER "
LOWER CRANKCASE BRG
AIR VENT SCREW
FUEL FILLER CAP
FLYWHEEL NUT
STARTER PLATE SCREW
STARTER PLATE
FLYWHEEL
GASOLINE TANK
ARMATURE BASE
CARBURETOR LEVER
---------------------- PRIMER
TANK ATTACHING SCREW
INSTRUCTION PLATE
------- R.H. CYLINDER
R.H. CYLINDER HEAD "UPPER"
SPARK PLUG COVER A
HDLE. SOCKET
SPARK PLUG WIRES
FUEL LINE
MOTOR COVER
MOTOR COVER STUD & NUT
CYLINDER DRAIN PLUG
. ®
Figure 54. Powerhead and lower unit, storm-boat motor.
50
-------------- MUFFLER
INLET WATER PIPE
WATER OUTLET
SHEAR PIN
PROPELLER SHAFT
__ PROPELLER NUT
PROPELLER SHAFT GREASE SEAL
GEAR HOUSING CAP
__ MUFFLER TUBE
GEAR HOUSING STUD 1 NUT
.------------------- EXHAUST OUTLET
OPELLER SHAH BALL BEARING
Figure 55. To remove flywheel, use flywheel puller and socket
wrench.
b. To Disa sse mble Motor . When overhauling the motor or installing
some vital internal part, follow the procedure outlined below
to save time and to do the task with the least effort. During the overhaul
keep the parts in clean containers.
(1) Remove motor cover. This is held to motor by four nuts and
lockwashers, two on each side of cover.
(2) Remove carrying handles at ends of cylinders. Four nuts hold
each handle.
(3) Remove starter plate on flywheel.
(4) Remove flywheel nut. Tap wrench with hammer to loosen flywheel
nut if necessary.
(5) Use flywheel puller to remove flywheel. See figure 55. Do not
tap off the flywheel as this may injure the ball bearings in the crankcase.
(6) Remove armature plate completely. Check coils, condensers, cutout
switch and wires. Clean contact points. If points show wear or are
badly pitted, they should be replaced. Usually this is due to weak condensers,
which also should be replaced.
(7) Remove fuel line.
(8) Remove fuel tank by taking off two screws on upper part of
muffler, two nuts on back of muffler, and fuel-line connection.
(9) Clean tank and fuel line with a noninflammable cleaning solvent.
Dirt may have gotten into tank from careless filling.
(10) Remove carburetor by taking off two nuts and lock-washers.
Primer body comes off with carburetor. Clean carburetor strainer bowl
below carburetor. Do not remove primer from carburetor unless to
replace rubber sleeve on primer inlet.
(11) Remove large hexagon nut at bottom of primer. Remove valve,
51
spring, and plunger. Clean with cleaning solvent. Check primer leather
cups; if worn, replace with new cups.
(12) Remove gear housing and upper driveshaft by removing two
stud nuts at water-pump housing.
(13) Remove muffler by removing six nuts and washers in rear of
cylinders, and two bolts on front side of motor at center of cylinders
close to crankcase. (See fig. 56.) Do not attempt to remove muffler
before these bolts are located and removed. Check muffler for cracks
or breaks. Check drain hole in muffler; this must be kept open to permit
drainage when motor is tilted into boat.
Figure 56. Removing muffler.
(14) (a) Remove cylinders by removing the six nuts and lockwashers
on each block. Remove water pipe. Slide cylinder off carefully.
Check cylinders for wear, scoring, or rust. Remove all carbon. If
rusted, check for leaks in cylinder-head gaskets. To check, remove
cylinder heads from cylinders by taking off nuts and four brass washers
on each side of motor.
(b) Cylinder-head gaskets should not be re-used; replace them with
new ones whenever cylinder heads are removed.
(c) Check cylinder heads for cracks, and check spark-plug-hole
threads. Check drain hole in brass plug at base of cylinder. If clogged,
remove obstruction, or cylinder will crack from freezing in cold weather.
(15) Remove pistons, marking them as follows: 1, upper left; 2, upper
right; 3, lower left; 4, lower right.
(16) With a long-nosed pliers remove spring-lock rings in piston-pin
hole.
52
(17) While supporting piston in one hand, tap out piston pin with a
piston-pin punch. (See fig. 57.)
Figure 57. To remove piston pin, tap out pin with a piston-pin
punch.
(18) Remove connecting rods and mark for identification. Cut wire
holding screws in cap. Remove screws with a well-fitting bit and brace.
These screws are fitted tightly and if slots are damaged are hard to
remove. Keep rollers and retainers with their respective connecting
rods. Check rods, retainers, and rollers carefully and replace all
cracked, broken, or worn parts.
(19) (a) The crankshaft and center bearing never is removed except
to replace or straighten crankshaft. This assembly “stays put” in normal
service and cannot get out of adjustment except in cases of rod
or crank breakage, burned-out crank pins, or damaged ball bearings.
If necessary to remove, follow procedure below:
(b) Remove the four nuts under drive-housing flange and lift off
crankcase.
(c) Remove lower brass bearing held by two flathead screws.
(d) Remove flywheel key from crankshaft keyway. (See fig. 58.)
(e) Remove 12 half-nuts on top of crankcase. These hold clamp ring
for upper ball bearing.
(/) Remove center-bearing dowel screw in back of crankcase; then
the bolt on each side of dowel screw.
(g) The crankshaft with center bearing and upper bearing now can
be taken out by tapping shaft with a rawhide hammer, or by heating
crankcase in hot water or center part of crankcase with a blow torch.
(20) To remove center bearing from crankshaft, remove two screws
that hold the halves together. (See fig. 59.) Do not lose any of the
34 rollers of this bearing or split-bronze seal between them.
(21) To remove upper ball bearing, loosen lockwasher; then loosen
left-hand locknut by driving with a flat-headed punch and hammer.
53
(22) Remove lower ball bearing by tapping crankshaft with a rawhide
hammer.
(23) The upper driveshaft housing does not require much attention.
If parts become broken or damaged they must be replaced or repaired.
To remove driveshaft housing, remove set screw from side of lower drive
housing. Next remove the two lock bolts. The lower one goes through
part of drive-housing tube, and has to come all the way out. After
both bolts are removed drive tube can be pulled out.
(24) To remove gear housing, remove nuts from studs located above
water-pump inclosure.
(25) (a) To disassemble gear housing, remove propeller-nut cotter
pin and nut. Remove propeller wheel, drive out propeller pin.
(5) Take out the two screws holding gear-housing cap to gear housing.
(See fig. 60.) Slide off cap and withdraw propeller shaft and gear.
Figure 58. To remove flywheel key, use small flat-end punch.
(c) Next remove thrust bearing. Now propeller shaft roller bearingcan
be removed. (See fig. 61.) After driveshaft is pulled out, driveshaft
gear and roller bearing will drop out. Remove both grease seals.
(26) Clean all parts in cleaning solvent. Check each piece minutely
for wear or breakage. Check roller bearings for wear, rust marks, or
pitted and rusted rollers. Bearings in such condition should be replaced
with new parts.
(27) To remove roller-bearing cup from housing, housing is expanded
by heating gently with a blow torch at point where bearing cup is fitted
into housing. (See fig. 62.) Tapping heated housing with a rawhide
hammer will cause cup to drop out.
(28) After all parts have been cleaned and inspected they are
reassembled.
(29) Do not use old grease seals; replace them with new ones. After
assembling and drawing up screws tightly and evenly, pack housing
with new grease. See greasing instructions in paragraph 175.
54
Figure 59. To remove center bearing, remove both screws holding
halves of bearing together.
c. Orde r of Rea ss emb lin g Motor . (1) Assemble crankshaft and
center bearing into crankcase as described in paragraph 18o.
(2) Assemble connecting rods to crankshaft. Lock all connecting-rod
screws with wire. (See par. 18p.)
(3) Assemble crankcase lower brass bearing held by two screws.
(See par. 18b(19).)
(4) Assemble drive housing to pivot bearing.
(5) Assemble crankcase with connecting rods to drive housing, which
is held by four nuts and washers.
(6) Assemble pistons to connecting rods. (See par. 18g.)
(7) Assemble cylinders and gaskets to crankcase. Line them up with
muffler. Slide muffler onto cylinders without gaskets. Make sure muffler
face is flat against cylinders. Hold this, and tighten up two nuts on each
cylinder, then remove muffler. Add all nuts and washers. Draw up
tightly. .
55
Figure 60. Unscrewing two screws preparatory to removing gearhousing
cap.
(8) Assemble cylinder-head gaskets and heads. (See par. I87.)
(9) Assemble muffler gaskets and muffler.
(10) Assemble water pipe.
(11) Assemble gas tank to motor.
(12) Assemble carburetor and gas line.
(13) Assemble magneto to motor. Be sure flywheel key is not too
high. Check key way. To check whether flywheel key is too high in
crankshaft keyway, place flywheel in position on crankshaft with armature
removed. Hold a sheet of white paper under flywheel at hub, in
line with keyway. Look down through keyway from top. If paper is
visible, key is in proper position, enabling flywheel to seat firmly on
crankshaft taper.
(14) Assemble motor cover, held with four nuts.
(15) Assemble gear housing and muffler tube to motor.
(16) Assemble spark plugs and carrying handles.
d. Ass emb ling Drive Hou sing and Pivot Bearin g . To assemble
drive housing and pivot bearing, assemble steering-handle support and
rubber liners to drive housing. Slide drive housing and handle support
into pivot bearing. Assemble upper pump body to bottom of drive tube.
This is held by two lock screws and one set screw which is in side of
pump body.
e. Repla cing Flywhe el . Install flywheel key, making sure taper on
crankshaft and taper bore of flywheel are clean. Align flywheel keyway
with key in crankshaft and set flywheel in position, making certain it is
down all the way. Then replace flywheel nut and tighten it securely,
using a hammer or mallet on wrench used for tightening. Replace starter
drums and tighten the three screws securely.
f. Drive -sh af t Spac ing . (1) When installing new drive shaft or
lower-unit parts, the clearance between upper end of drive shaft and
56
GEAR HOUSING
GEAR-HOUSING CAP AND BUSHING
PROPELLER-SHAFT GEAR
PROPELLER SHAFT
GEAR-HOUSING CAP SCREWS
Figure 61. Disassembled gear housing.
spacing bushing inside spline of crankshaft is most important. Proper
clearance is shown at B, figure 63.
(2) If drive shaft is too long it exerts pressure on crankshaft and
causes heating of the shaft and bearings, and breakage.
(3) Several methods can be employed in measuring this clearance. A
simple one is to use a washer of known thickness, over .015 inches, and
insert it between drive shaft and crankshaft spacer bushing at B, figure
63. Deducting thickness of feeler gauge from thickness of washer gives
the clearance between shaft and bushing. Do not attempt to move
bushing.
g. Remo ving Armatu re Base . (1) After removing flywheel disconnect
all spark-plug wires from plugs. Loosen friction screw shown
57
UPPER DRIVE SHAFT CLEARANCE
Figure 63. Upper drive-shaft clearance to prevent
overheating or breakage of shaft and bearings.
Figure 62. To remove roller-bearing cup, expand housing by
heating with a blow torch.
.015
CLEARANCE
58
Figure 6Jj. Armature base.
59
j. Ins ta llin g New Igni tion Coil . (1) Detach ground wire from
armature base. Detach primary lead soldered to bracket on breaker
plate. Detach spark-plug wires soldered to top of coil. Care must be
taken not to use too much heat. Remove four screws which hold coil to
base. Do not remove two screws shown at A, figure 65. Remove coil
and heels together.
(2) New coils are furnished with semifinished coil heels, and it is
necessary to turn them to proper diameter after installing coil to base.
Coil heels are turned to same diameter as pads to which coils are
attached on armature base. This operation should be performed by an
experienced machinist.
(3) If no lathe is available, old coil heels may be removed and
installed on new coil. (See B, fig. 65.) Coil heels must be made flush
with pads on armature base to prevent striking pole shoes on magnet
at B, figure 64. Remove hold-down screw on top of crankcase at center
of armature base (see A, fig. 52) and armature may be removed.
(2) When replacing armature base, make sure hold-down screw is
replaced before installing flywheel. Damage may result from omitting
screw.
h. Inst all ing New Break er Point s . (1) Loosen and remove nut
holding breaker-arm spring fast to armature base. Remove small clip
holding breaker arm on pivot post. Lift breaker-arm assembly from
pivot post. Remove condenser and coil wires from breaker plate.
Remove screw holding breaker plate to armature base, pivot post, and
stationary point.
(2) Install new points. Flywheel must be replaced to readjust points.
Follow adjusting directions in paragraph 17e.
i. Inst all ing New Conde nse r . To install new condenser first unsolder
condenser wire from breaker-point bracket and remove screw in
condenser clip at A, figure 64. Install new condenser and solder lead
wire to breaker-point bracket. Use only resin-core solder.
A B
IGNITION COIL
Figure 65. Coil and coil heels.
in flywheel when flywheel is rotated. This can be done by leaving
screws slightly loose and then lining up heel laminations by tapping
with hammer and setting to turned pads on armature base and then
tightening screws. It may be necessary to file heels if uneven or if they
strike flywheel.
k. Ign itio n Shut -of f Swit ch . This switch is built into the magneto
armature base and operates automatically. When timer handle is moved
all the way to left over the word "stop” on hood, cam on top of crankcase
allows switch push rod to move far enough to close contacts on
switch, thereby short-circuiting current and stopping motor. By moving
timer handle to start position, contact points open and allow motor to
be started again. If this switch is removed or becomes damaged, it
should be adjusted so contacts are closed when timer handle is at "stop,”
and open when timer handle is at "start.” (See B, fig. 66.) This is
important. Adjustment can be made by loosening the two screws on
top of switch block (see A, fig. 66) and moving switch block in or out
until proper setting is found. Always test by moving timer handle to
make sure switch is working properly.
_ I. Muff le r . This part requires practically no attention. If the casting
is broken or cracked it can be welded. Keep drain hole open to
permit drainage when motor is tilted and to prevent water from entering
cylinders through the ports.
m. Carb uret or . (1) To get at carburetor, hood must first be removed.
To check and clean carburetor, remove fuel line at bottom of
carburetor bowl. Loosen Bowden control wire from speed-control lever
and slide wire out of socket.
(2) Take off two nuts that hold carburetor and primer to crankcase.
Remove carburetor.
(3) To clean carburetor bowl remove the five screws and washers
that fasten top of carburetor to body. Screw out high-speed needle
valve and remove cover. Clean out bowl with cleaning solvent. Make
sure no sediment or foreign substance clings to walls.
60
Figure 66. Ignition shut-off switch. (When timer handle is moved to “stop” position,
the contacts on switch are closed.
(4) Remove strainer body. Take out screw that holds float needle
to float which then can be pushed down through inlet hole in carburetor
bowl. Check float needle for wear. Clean needle and needle seat
thoroughly.
(5) In reassembling float and needle, before replacing cover be sure
spring clip that holds float in position is in notch cut in float-valve
needle. See that cover gasket is in place when cover is put on. Fasten
all screws firmly and evenly.
n. Carbur et or Primer . If primer gasket leaks, replace with new
gasket. Assembly can be repaired without removing primer with carburetor.
Remove screw plug at bottom of primer, allowing spring and
plunger to slide out. Check plunger leather caps; replace if worn. In
reassembling, draw screw plug up tightly.
o. Ins tallin g Cran ks ha ft in Crank case . (1) Clean all parts with
cleaning solvent so they are free from chips, grit, and dirt. If new
parts are used, remove all burrs and sharp edges.
(2) Put ball bearings in a pan of cleaning solvent. Keep them there
until needed.
(3) Assemble center-bearing retainers to center bearing, making sure
marked half-pairs are assembled together properly.
(4) Now place roller retainer into center bearing. Assemble centerbearing
seal as shown in figure 67. The halves should come together at
ends marked with a punch.
(5) Add more heavy oil and assemble rollers into the halves’ centerbearing
retainer, or race. There are 34 rollers in this assembly.
-- AB
61
Figure (17. Halves of center bearing. (Note roller bearing in
center-bearing retainers.)
(6) Put crankshaft in copper-jawed vise in vertical position. If used
crankshaft is being assembled, be sure it has been straightened and
checked. Slide both halves of bearing race, with rollers, into position
around center journal of crankshaft, making sure rollers are in position.
While holding halves together with one hand, put screws in place. With
a brace and bit pull screws up tightly. Rotate bearing to make sure it
is free.
(7) Place clamp ring—the ring with six studs—over upper, tapered,
end of crankshaft, studs pointing upward. (See fig. 68.) Clean and dry
upper ball bearing with air hose, making sure all grit and dirt is removed
under balls. Slide ball bearing over the threaded end of crankshaft.
Follow with lockwasher and nut, which has a left-hand thread.
Bend all prongs of lockwasher into slots of locknut or against side of
nut. Now this assembly can be put in crankcase.
(8) Slide crankshaft into crankcase. (See fig. 69.) Center-bearing
dowel pins and screw holes must match holes in crankcase. Because
of the close fit, assembly is easier if crankcase first is expanded by
heating gently with blow torch or with hot water. If impractical to do
this, tap crankshaft into position with a rawhide or lead hammer.
(9) When, and not before, holes line up perfectly, assemble the large
dowel screw. If holes do not line up exactly it usually results in damage
to thread in center bearing or to dowel screw. After large dowel
screw is in place, assemble two center-bearing screws and washers. Draw
up these three screws tightly. (See fig. 68.)
(10) Now loosen the six adjusting screws at upper part of crankcase
so they are about three threads above the machined surface. Assemble
the six washers to clamp-ring studs. Screw one-half nut on each
stud. Pull these up equally tight. Now turn down adjusting screws
which raise or lower crankshaft assembly in crankcase until they touch
fhe bearing. Next, loosen clamp-ring nuts about four turns each. Mark
62
CLAMP RING
CRANKCASE
Figure 69. Assembling crankshaft and center bearing to crankcase.
CRANKSHAFT i
CENTER BEARING
Muffler side. Carburetor side.
Figure 68. Crankshaft, clamp ring, center bearing, crankcase.
crankcase with a pencil in line with screw slots, thus providing a starting
point for adjusting clearance between crankshaft and center bearing.
(11) Turn adjusting screws to the right a three-quarter turn each.
Be careful all screws are turned the same amount, or ball bearing will
not line up. Now draw down the six nuts that hold the clamp ring. M ith
feelers, check clearance between crankshaft and center bearing. Clearance
on top of center bearing should be 0.001 to 0.0002 more than on
the bottom of center bearing. (See fig. 70.)
(12) If shaft is too high, rub off pencil mark on crankcase and mark
again at screw slots. Start from that point, loosening locknuts and
63
Figure 70. Checking clearance of crankshaft and centerbearing.
(Clearance should be 1.1809 to 1.1813 inches for top and, bottom
of centerbearing.)
turning adjusting screws down about one-eighth turn at a time, locking
locknuts each time and checking until top and bottom clearances are
even. After crankshaft is adjusted, add other six half nuts, locking
these tightly against lower half nuts. Again check clearance. If position
of shaft has not changed and it turns freely lower ball bearing now
can be slid into position on crankshaft. This bearing is a “tap” fit on
crankshaft. .
(13) Assemble gasket and lower crankcase bearing, using the two
screws to hold this in place. Again try shaft for freeness.
(14) Using an oilcan, put a few drops of lubricating oil into upper
bearing, center bearing, and lower bearing, to keep them lubricated
until they receive oil from fuel mixture during operation.
p. Ass embling Conne ctin g Rods to Shaft . (1) Wash rods thoroughly
in cleaning solvent and check them for score marks and heat
discolorations. If too badly scored, or if color is dark, replace with
new rods.
(2) Check piston-pin bushings. These should have about ,002-inch
clearance on the piston pins. Piston-pin fit is never a tight fit and the
pin should slide through piston-pin bushing freely. If bushing shows
wear or discoloration, replace it. If motor went overboard while running,
rods probably are crooked and must be checked and replaced if
damaged. After rods have been inspected and found in good condition,
or replaced, clean roller-bearing retainers thoroughly in cleaning solvent.
There are six retainers to each rod. Check each piece carefully for
breaks or cracks. Replace all that are even slightly defective. Remove
all sharp edges and burrs with a fine stone.
(3) When installing new connecting-rod-roller retainers they should
64
.010 TO .014
CLEARANCE
Figure 71. C onnecting-rod clearances.
Figure 72. Assembling connecting rods.
in a vise in horizontal
(4) After all parts have been cleaned and made ready for reassembling,
place a set of retainers on a clean bench and drop rollers into
retainers. A few drops of No. 70 oil will keep them in place. Do not
use grease.
(5) Place crankcase and crankshaft assembly
position, and proceed with rod No. 1, upper left. Place three retainers
with their rollers on upper part of rod. Bring rod up to crank pin.
(See replacing No. 2 rod, fig. 72.) Then take remaining three retainers
with rollers and place them on crank pin. Drop rod-bearing cap over
the retainers. See that cap is in proper position by checking markings
on cap and rod.
be used in sets of six, which are enclosed in sealed envelopes. These
sets have proper spacing for connecting rod. Single retainers may be
used for replacement only when end clearance has been checked. This
clearance must total .010 to .014 inches. (See fig. 71.) A feeler gauge
is used for spacing.
SIX RETAINERS PLACED IN CONNECTING ROD SHOULD
HAVE TOTAL CLEARANCE AS SHOWN. USE FEELER GAGE
FOR SPACING.
65
(6) Put in connecting-rod screws and draw up evenly. In like manner
assemble other rods and bearings. No. 1 rod is upper left; No. 2,
upper right; No. 3, lower left; No. 4, lower right. Tighten all rod
screws with brace and screw-driver bit. Grasping piston end of rod,
allowable up-and-down movement at piston-pin end of rod is about
1/32 inch. (See fig. 73.)
Figure 73. Up-and-down movement of rod should be about
1/32 inch.
(7) If original rollers were used, and rod has a tight spot during
rotation, cap may have been put on incorrectly. Recheck markings on
cap and rod.
q. Pis to ns and Pist on Rings . (1) Check pistons carefully for
score marks and stuck piston rings. Badly scored or burned pistons
should be replaced.
(2) Clean out carbon from ring grooves. To do this grind or file
square end of about one-third of broken piston ring, using this as a
tool with which to clean carbon out of ring grooves. (See fig. 74.)
(3) After grooves are cleaned thoroughly, new rings may be assembled.
Clean piston and ring in cleaning solvent and blow dry with
compressed air or wipe dry with clean cloth. Rings should fit freely
in grooves.
(4) AA hen all rings have been installed properly and all parts are
cleaned thoroughly, they are assembled to connecting rods.
(5) Put one spring ring into position in groove in bottom of pistonpin
hole. (See fig. 75.) Place piston in position on rod with short,
intake side of piston deflector toward the front, carburetor side of
motor. (See fig. 76.) Slide piston pin into position from top downward
through connecting-rod bushing. Install other spring ring in top
of piston pin. This is of utmost importance. Be sure all original pistons
are placed in same positions as before disassembling according to
center-punch markings.
66
67.
90 psi.
0.010 inch
(6) Now assemble cylinder to crankcase. Put one cylinder gasket
in place. Old gasket should not be used. Apply lubricating oil to pistons
and rings with oil can. Do not spread oil with gritty fingers. Be
sure piston rings are in proper position with regard to stop pins that
keep them from rotating in ring grooves. If piston rings are not lined
up with stop pins, the cylinder cannot go on. Be careful to avoid grit
or dirt from workbench or fingers getting in parts. This job requires
extreme cleanliness, as grit easily can score pistons and cylinders.
(7) (a) Slide cylinder into position with water-outlet holes on top.
(See fig. 77.) Put on lock washers and nuts to hold cylinder to crankcase,
leaving nuts partly loose. Then use muffler for squaring both
cylinders. Remove muffler and draw up all nuts securely.
are:
2
2.750 inches
0.125 inch
r. Mis ce ll an eo us Rep airs . (1) Straightening bent propeller. Propellers
not damaged too severely can be straightened. Best results are
obtained by using a propeller pitch block on which the propeller is
mounted and the dents and bends pounded out with a hammer. Bronze
or brass propellers are more ductile than aluminum and stand better
the strain of bending and straightening.
(2) Motor dropped overboard. If a motor has been submerged, it
should be recovered as quickly as possible and promptly taken apart
and cleaned. If the motor cannot be overhauled immediately, do the
following:
Figure 74- Cleaning carbon from piston grooves with piece of
broken piston ring.
(b) Piston-ring specifications for the storm-boat motor
Number of rings per piston....................................
Diameter of ring........................................................
Width of ring............................................................
Pounds of compression recommended
when compressed................................................
Gap clearance ............................................................
Figure 76. Aluminum alloy piston. (Note two ring grooves, piston-pin
hole, and unusual shape of piston’s top.)
68
Figure 75. Installing bottom piston-pin spring ring. (Note position
of hands.)
INTAKE SIDE - EXHAUST SIDE
Figure 77. Two water-outlet holes at top of cylinder
Figure 78. Straightening propeller on propeller pitch block. (Mallet is used to
straighten bends and dents in propeller blades.)
69
(a) Remove fuel tank, fuel line, carburetor, magneto, and spark
plugs. Drain all water, and wash out with cleaning solvent.
(b) Drain water from cylinders and crankcase and pour oil into each
cylinder, rotating crankshaft slowly a turn or two to distribute the oil.
(c) Clean armature plate thoroughly and wipe with dry cloth.
(d) Replace spark plugs, place motor in a warm, dry spot, and overhaul
it as soon as possible.
(3) Care after salt-water operation. The corrosive effects of salt
water on the exposed motor parts makes additional care of the motor
necessary. (See par. 17.)
Table III. Table of limits storm-boat motor
Cylinder diameter.................................................................. 2.750 to 2.751 inches.
Piston limits....... ...................................................................
Piston diameter...................................................................... 2.7425 to 2.7415 inches.
Skirt clearance ....................................................................... 0.0075 to 0.0095 inch.
Taper to skirt clearance.........................................................0.0015 to 0.0135 inch.
Piston ring ............................................................................
Clearance in groove................................................................ 0.005 inch.
Crankshaft limits ..................................................................
Top journal............................................................................ 1.24975 to 125025 inches.
Center journal ....................................................................... 1.1809 to 1.1813 inches.
Bottom journal ..................................................................... 1.1809 to 1.1813 inches.
Connecting-rod pin................................................................ 0.9995 to 1.0000 inch.
70
SECTION V
TROUBLE CHART
POWERHEAD
Mot or Fails to Start
Ignition
Fuel
Assembly
Motor binding
.Defective spark plugs... .Wrong type.
Fouled or cracked porcelain.
Gap incorrect.
.Broken wires.
Loose connections.
Shorted ground wire.
Breaker points out of adjustment.
Breaker points pitted.
Condenser defective.
Insulation broken down.
Ignition coil defective.
Weak or cracked magnet.
Defective fuel supply... .Fuel improperly mixed.
Fuel line obstructed.
Screens clogged.
Water in fuel.
Defective carburetion .. .Float valve stuck.
Fuel jet clogged.
Needle valve not adjusted.
Needle-valve seat clogged.
Air leak—crankcase spout broken.
Carburetor flooded; crankcase
flooded.
Carburetor float-valve seat leaking.
Water in crankcase.
.Pistons and cylinders... .Worn excessively.
Cylinder gasket defective.
•Reamed too close.
Out of line.
.Sprung.
Twisted.
.Not straight.
Twisted.
Fitted too close.
.Fitted too close.
Out of round.
Galled, burned, or scored.
.Gap too close.
.Sprung.
Porous casting causing leak.
.Not squarely mounted.
•Binding.
.Meshed too close—binding.
Broken.
Propeller and pinion
shafts....................... Sprung—corroded.
Bearings .........................Reamed too close or out of line.
Fuel mixture—Oil content................................. Too rich.
Too lean.
Fuel line.
Screen.
Carburetor nozzle.
Float valve.
Needle valve.
Loose connections.
Defective magneto
Journal bearings
Crank shaft
Connecting rods
Pistons
Piston rings
Crank case
Cylinder ... .
Rotary valve
Gearcase binding ... .Gears ..........
Fuel supply—Partially obstructed
Carburetor—
71
Fau lty Opera ti on an d Mis si ng
Ignition..................... Spark plug ......................Wrong type.
Breaker points .............. Pitted.
Weak spring.
Arm binding on post.
Loose in mounting.
Condenser ..................... Weak.
Loose connections.
Moisture underneath insulating material.
Coil ................................ Loose connections.
Weak.
Magnet ...........................Weak.
Cracked.
Insulation worn off wires.
Assembly ..................Bearings ......................... Fitted too close.
Out of line.
Crank shaft and
connecting rod ....... Sprung.
Twisted.
Out of true.
W orn.
Piston ............................ Worn.
Out of round.
Fitted too close.
Piston rings....................Worn.
Bound in ring groove.
Incorrect gap adjust.
Crankcase ..................... Sprung.
, Porous casting.
Water entering crankcase up through lower journal bearing.
Mot or Har d to Start
Spark plug ................ Wrong type.
Gap set too close, too wide.
Fouled.
Cracked porcelain.
Magneto ...................Loose connections—primary.
Shorted wires.
Breaker points pitted.
Breaker points loose in mounting.
Breaker-points gap incorrect.
Breaker points not adjusted with relation to position of cam.
Breaker arm binding on post.
Weak condenser.
Soldered connections loose—condenser.
Moisture collected underneath coil and insulation.
_ Weak coil.
Fuel ........................ Excessive oil content.
Improperly mixed.
. Water in fuel.
Fuel line.................... Air vent closed—gas tank.
Screens clogged.
Fuel line obstructed.
Carburetor ................ Fouled jets.
Air leak—broken crankcase spout.
Needle valve improperly adjusted or closed.
... Over or under choked.
Motor binding .........Bearings fitted too close or out of line.
Crankshaft, connecting rods, sprung or twisted.
Crankcase sprung.
Drive-shaft case sprung.
Flywheel binding on armature.
Cylinder ....................Excessively worn, scored.
Exhaust ports clogged with carbon.
72
Piston
Piston ring
Muffler
Rotor valve
Over hea tin g
Water pump
Housing
Piston
Bearings
Armature plate
Motor Knoc kin g
Crankshaft
Connecting rods
Flywheel
Plug burns out
Motor knocks
Spark plug
Plug fouls .
Carburetor
Bearings .
.Check valves
Tubes ......
.Bound.
.Leaking.
Filled with sand.
.Worn.
Out of true.
Inlet......... .Clogged.
Tubes and fittings... .Broken.
Corroded.
Clogged.
Over supply of grease in gear case.
Fuel mixture.............Insufficient amount of oil.
Cylinder ....................Exhaust ports clogged with carbon.
. Excessively worn. _
Water jackets corroded—hole leading into cylinder
Excessively worn.
Ring grooves filled with carbon.
Piston rings bound in ring groove.
Piston ring worn—insufficient gap clearance.
Out of line.
Fitted too close.
Crankshaft and Sprung.
connecting rods... .Twisted.
Muffler ......................Clogged with carbon.
Assembled incorrectly.
Water jacket porous—leaking.
Clamp screw too tight.
Heels striking poles of magnet.
Mot or Har d to Star t —Contd.
.Excessively worn.
Scored.
Ring grooves filled with carbon.
Installed inverted position.
.Excessively worn.
Gap too close or too wide.
Stuck in ring groove.
.Clogged with carbon. Holes stopped up.
Exhaust cut-out closed.
.Binding.
Incorrectly timed.
Water entering crankcase up through lower journal bearing.
.Set too rich at needle adjustment.
.Loose.
Out of line.
.Worn.
Sprung.
Excess end play.
.Bent.
Twisted.
Bearing surface worn.
.Loose. Ctacked hub. Worn keyway.
Striking heels of coil. Loose rivets.
Spa rk Plug Diff ic ulti es
.Wrong type—too hot.
.Fuel mixture too rich—oil content.
Carburetor set too rich.
Wrong type—too cool.
Water entering crankcase.
.Wrong type—too hot.
Water in crankcase.
Fuel mixture too lean—oil content.
Carburetor set too lean.
.Plug too hot.
73
Er r ati c Motor Oper ation (Speed varies)
Spark plug................ Too hot.
Bearings ....................Binding.
Propeller....................Pitch too great (cavitation, racing).
Transom of boat....... Too high.
Gears—gearcase ....... Meshed too close.
Cavitation ................ Transom too high.
Keel interferes.
Grass, weeds collected on gear case.
GEARCASE
Gear Dif fi cu lty
Gears ......................... Improperly adjusted.
Bearings ....................Worn.
Reamed oversize.
Out of line.
Water in gearcase.... Propeller shaft bearing—Worn. Reamed oversize.
Loose inspection or grease plugs.
Leaking water tubes or connections (driveshaft).
Propeller shaft out of true.
Grease seal ....................Leather washer won’t slide on shaft.
Spring binding or corroded.
Injured retainers.
Inj ured gaskets.
Water in drive-shaft casing (leaking water tubes or connections (corrosion)).
74
SECTION VI
POLR-15
STOP BUTTON FLYWHEEL
COVER PLATE
FUEL TANK
STEERING HANDLE FLYWHEEL NUT
VENT
CONTROL GRIP
FILLER CAP
CONTROL CABLE
SHUT-OFF VALVE
CARBURETOR.
FUEL LINE
MUFFLER
HANDRAIL
TILTING BOLT
CLAMP SCREWS CYLINDER HEAD
SWIVEL PLATES PIVOT BEARING
STERN BRACKET DRIVE SHAFT HOUSING
THRUST SOCKET BOLT THRUST SOCKET
QUADRANT
DRIVE SHAFT HOUSING WATER PIPE
VENT PLUG
WATER SCOOP
DRAIN PLUG
INSPECTION PROPELLER
PLUG COTTER PIN
BOLT PROPELLER NUT
GEAR HOUSING HEAD
SKEG
GREASE
COMPRESSION
RELEASE LEVEE
LOWER
UNIT
EYE FOR
TILLER ROPE
MAGNETO
LEVER
COMPRESSION
RELEASE
SPARK PLUG
COVER
PLUG GEAR HOUSING
Figure 79. General nomenclature, POLR-15 motor.
75
19. Nomenclature POLR—15
20. Specification Chart
See table IV.
Table IV. Specification chart POLR-15
Mechanical specifications POLR-15
Powerhead.............................................................................. Two-port rotary
valve opposed
cylinders.
Bore and stroke..................................................................... 2%-by 2.52-in.
Number of cylinders.............................................................. 2.
N.O.A. certified ..................................................................... 22.0.
Brake hp at rpm..................................................................... 4.000.
Piston displacement .............................................................. 29.92 cu. in.
Weight ....................................................................................126 lb.
Propeller-diameter pitch ....................................................... 12- by 10-in., 3-blade.
Fuel-tank capacity ................................................................ 2% gallons.
Starting .. . ..............................................................................Pope.
Ignition ..................................................................................Magneto.
Make carburetor ................................................................... Vacturi.
Gear ratio .............................................................................. 12-21.
Type of exhaust..................................................................... Open.
Cooling system ............ ........................................................ Pressure vacuum.
Steering ..................................................................................Full pivot.
Reverse ..................................................................................Yes.
Stern height (maximum)....................................................... 20 in.
21. Starting Instructions
To start the motor, follow the instructions shown in figures 80 to 89
inclusive. Mix 1 pint SAE No. 40 lubricating oil with each gallon of
gasoline and fill tank.
76
Figure 81. Open gas tank shut-off valve to permit gasoline to flow to carburetor.
Figure 80. Open air vent in gas-tank filler cap
to allow air to enter tank permitting gasoline
to flow from tank.
77
Figure 82. Set high-speed needle one turn from closed position for correct carburetion
for starting. (Be sure needle is adjusted properly. If in doubt, turn needle
clockwise to close, then open one turn from closed position.)
Figure 83. Set choke lever to “choke” position. (Move choke lever to position
marked “choke.” Do not use choke to start ichen motor is warm unless necessary.)
78
Figure 85. Set magneto lever to center position.
Figure 84. Set throttle one-third open to give correct throttle adjustment for starting.
Set throttle approximately one-third open. Turn control grip clockwise from
closed position. •
79
\ ■ "t
Figure 86. Wrap starting cord clockwise around starting pulley placing knot of cord
in notch of drum.
80
Figure 87. Move compression release lever to extreme right (facing motor) to
reduce cranking effort.
Figure 88. Depress float pin for 1 or 2 seconds to flush carburetor. Stop when gasoline
flows from float-pin hole. Depress float pin for 1 or 2 seconds to flush
carburetor. The float chamber is filled with fuel-oil mixture when float pin is up;
chamber is empty when float pin is down.
81
Figure 89. Pull starting cord. Grasp starting cord as shown and spin flywheel with
a sustained, strong pull. Do not jerk rope.
22. Operating Instructions
a. Having started the motor, proceed as follows:
(1) Advance spark by moving magneto lever to right (facing motor).
(2) Move choke lever to "open” position.
(3) Move compression-release lever to extreme left (facing motor).
(4) Open throttle on control grip as desired.
(5) Turn high-speed needle right or left as required to obtain maximum
speed. High-speed needle is adjusted correctly when maximum
speed is attained.
(6) To reduce motor speed, close throttle and retard spark by moving
magneto lever to left (facing motor). Turn control grip to right to
open throttle, to left to close throttle.
(7) (a) To stop motor, depress stop button. Hold until motor stops
running.
(b) If motor is flooded by overchocking and cannot be started, close
high-speed needle. Crank motor to start, and allow to run until excess
fuel in crankcase is consumed. Open high-speed needle and follow instructions
in paragraph 21.
b. To attach motor to boat, see paragraph 6.
c. Compr ess ion Rele as e and Bypass Val ve . (1) To obtain easy
cranking and starting a compression release and a bypass valve have
been built into port cylinder (left, back to motor—see fig. 91).
(2) The compression release consists of a small valve installed in
cylinder head and held closed by a spring, and operated at will by movement
of compression-release lever. It relieves compression pressure and,
when opened for starting purposes, reduces cranking effort, since starting
is accomplished on but one cylinder.
82
■Hn
STOP BUTTON
Figure 90. Push in stop button to stop motor.
COMPRESSION RELEASE
COMPRESSION RELEASE VALVE
BY-PASS VALVE (CLOSED) BY-PASS
PISTON PORT
[CONNECTING RODl
CRANK CASE
PISTON RINGS CYLINDER HEAD
CONNECTING ROD BOLT
PISTON
EXHAUST PORT EXHAUST PORT
Figure 91. Compression release.
ROTARY
VALVE
L____ SPARK PLUG HOLE pS*' E
CYLINDER
INTAKE PORT /
UWPWRIST PIN
ROLLER BEARINGS .
(3) The bypass valve,, interlinked with compression-release valve, is
merely a gate in bypass chamber of cylinder. Its purpose is to close off
compression discharge to port cylinder, resulting in starboard cylinder
(right, back to motor) receiving full compression discharge from crankcase
further to facilitate easy starting.
(4) Compression release and bypass valves operate in unison by moving
the compression-release lever to right (facing motor), which leaves
compression-release valve open and bypass valve closed for the starting
83
HIGH SPEED NEEDLE
Figure 92. Carburetor needle controls
peso
lga w ,
(1) To adjust slow speed. Slow-speed adjustment is made with retarded
spark and at normal running temperature. Close slow-speed
screw or needle and open approximately one-half turn. Start motor as
instructed, and operate at full throttle until it reaches normal temperature.
Move magneto lever midway between center position and full
retard, and close throttle. Turn slow-speed needle to right or left as
required to obtain smooth operation at slow speed.
(2) To adjust high speed. Start motor as instructed. Operate at
full throttle and full spark advance until motor reaches normal operating
temperature. Turn high-speed needle to right or left as required
to obtain maximum speed.
position. If compression-release lever is moved to left (facing motor)
compression-release valve is closed and bypass valve open in running
position. Move compression-release lever to the left immediately after
starting motor.
d. Carbu reto r Adjus tment . The carburetor has two jets to insure
efficient carburetion throughout entire speed-range of motor. The slowspeed
jet provides correct carburetion at slow and intermediate speeds,
high-speed jet from intermediate to top speeds. Two adjustments are
necessary—slow- and high-speed needles. (See fig. 92.)
84
■RTac ki t & cc.
■ cuiciao .
'on; J|
, SLOW SPEED NEEDLE
■ eicu
e. Steering an d Reve rs e . See paragraph 7.
/. Magnet o . See paragraph 4e, and figure 8.
g. To Insta ll Prop ell er Drive Pin (Saf ety Shear Pin ). To install
a new drive pin, withdraw propeller-nut cotter pin. Remove nut,
propeller, and fragments of sheared pin. Install new pin. Replace
propeller and nut. Draw up on propeller nut just enough to make certain
propeller hub rests firmly against drive pin. If drawn up too
tightly, it may shear new pin. Insert cotter pin and lock in position.
h. “ ~ ~ ’
i.
']■
k.
Cool ing Syste m. See paragraph 4b.
Cav itatio n . See paragraph 4/
Moto r Drop ped Overb oard . See paragraph 15y.
Demol ition to Prev ent Ene my Use . See paragraph
Prep ar atio n fo r Sto rag e . See paragraph 9.
m. Prep ar atio n for Ship men t . See paragraph 10.
16.
paragraph
submerged
23. Operating Maintenance
a. Ope rat or Mainte nance . Follow procedure listed in
17c.
b. Lubrica tion of Gear Case . (1) Since gear case is
when in use it is important that gears and bearings be lubricated properly
at all times. Gear case is lubricated at intervals of 10 to 12 hours
of operation.
(2) Inspection of gear case is necessary at regular intervals to drain
accumulation of water which may be present. Remove vent and grease
plugs. Water in the gear case is injurious if allowed to remain, particularly
if the motor is placed in storage, and causes gears, bearings,
propeller and pinion shafts to rust and become pitted.
(3) To refill with gear lubricant, place motor in an upright position.
Remove lower grease plug and upper vent plug. Fill with Evinrude
Super Grease UW or Sea Horse Lubricant, using a grease gun or tube
inserted through lower opening. Insert lubricant until it flows from
vent opening. Replace plugs,, making certain they are secure.
(4) Prior to storage remove all drain, vent, and grease plugs to allow
water present in gear case and water channels to drain off. This prevents
freezing and bursting of gear case, drive-shaft housing, water tubes, and
cylinder blocks if motor is exposed to freezing temperatures, and eliminates
danger of rusting.
c. Cle an an d Adju st Brea ker Point s . (See fig. 8.) (1) Remove
flywheel cover plate held in position by three screws. A port or opening
in flywheel makes points accessible for inspection, cleaning, and adjusting.
(See fig. 94.) Spread breaker points with blunt instrument to
observe their condition. If pitted or corroded, place a narrow strip of
No. 00 sandpaper between points, folded so both points can be dressed
down ’ '
them,
used.
(2)
simultaneously by drawing sandpaper back and forth between
The flex-stone listed in first echelon spare parts also may be
Do not use emery cloth.
Upon completing this operation, check the gap between points
by turning flywheel slowly until points are wide apart. Insert feeler
gauge between points as shown in figure 94. Correct setting is .020 inch.
Note breaker arm, breaker plate, breaker-point adjusting screw, and
breaker-point cam in flywheel in figure 8. If necessary to reset breaker
points, loosen breaker-point adjusting screw. Note arm is free to move
slightly. Since breaker points actually are operated by cam in flywheel,
85
Figure 93. Lubricating gear case. (Insert waterproof gear lubricant,
Evinrude Super Grease or Johnson Sea-Horse Lubricant, until grease
flows from upper opening.)
breaker plate must be adjusted to a definite position with respect to
cam to obtain proper gap setting at points. Insert screw driver or other
blunt instrument through port in flywheel and shift position of breaker
plate as required to attain gap of .020 inch. To increase gap,, shift
breaker plate and arm assembly towards cam center of flywheel; to
decrease gap, shift from cam. Tighten setscrew to lock in position at
proper gap setting.
(3) Note mark on rim of flywheel and similar mark on underside of
86
- UPPER VENT OPENING
DRAIN
PLUG
INSPECTION PLUG^
Figure 94. Checking breaker points through inspection port in flywheel.
armature plate. Points should be on verge of opening when two marks
index. Replace flywheel cover plate.
d. Trou bl e Shoo ting . See section V.
24. Repair Instructions (see par. 16.)
a. To Remo ve Fly wh ee l . The flywheel nut and cover plate act in
combination as a puller when the flywheel nut is unscrewed. The nut
has a shoulder that bears against under side of cover plate. Unscrew
flywheel nut until it tightens against cover plate. Strike handle of
wrench sharp blow with hammer or mallet as shown in figure 95. Two
or three blows should be sufficient to jar flywheel loose from taper on
the crankshaft. Lift flywheel from crankshaft.
b. To Inst all Fly wh ee l . Remove cover plate from flywheel. Make
certain keys are in position on crankshaft. Place flywheel over taper
on crankshaft, at same time aligning keys and keyway in flywheel hub.
Attach flywheel nut, and screw down tightly. Strike handle of wrench
several sharp blows with hammer or mallet to tighten. Replace cover
plate. Start and run motor 10 to 15 minutes. Retighten nut as described
above. Newly installed flywheel will settle slightly on taper of crankshaft
after a few minutes operation and unless tightened, is likely to
cause serious damage both to flywheel hub and to crankshaft, taper.
Be sure flywheel nut is tight. Repeated shearing of propeller pins for
no apparent reason is result of loose flywheel.
c. To Inst all New Breaker Poin ts . Loosen and remove nut holding
breaker-arm spring fast to armature plate. Remove small clip
holding breaker arm on pivot post. Lift breaker-arm assembly off
pivot post. Remove nuts and washers holding stationary breaker point
in breaker plate. (See fig. 96.) Install new points, stationary point,
87
Figure 95. Using wrench on flywheel nut. (Strike wrench with hammer or mallet to
loosen flywheel from crankshaft.)
and breaker-arm assembly in reverse order. Be sure breaker arm
operates freely on pivot post and that all nuts and washers are drawn
up securely. Adjust points. Since breaker-point cam is attached to hub
of flywheel, flywheel must be mounted to crankshaft prior to attempting
adjustment of points.
d. To Insta ll Cond ens er . Condenser is fastened to under side of
armature plate. (See fig. 8.) Remove screws, detach condenser leads
which is soldered to bracket on breaker plate. Lift condenser from
cavity in plate. When attaching new condenser, thread small wire
through hole in armature plate provided for this purpose. Solder lead
to bracket. Set condenser in cavity and replace screws to hold it fast.
e. To Insta ll Ign itio n Coil . (1) Detach ground wire from armature
plate. Detach primary lead soldered to bracket on breaker plate. Detach
high-tension leads and spark-plug wires soldered to coil. Use
small soldering iron and just enough heat to loosen soldered joint to
permit pulling wires away. Remove screws, holding coil heels and coil
to plate. Lift coil and heel assembly from armature plate. Middle
screw A, figure 65, on each heel holds plates of heel assembly together.
Do not remove this screw, merely loosen. Pry heels gently from coil.
Simply pull off by hand. (See fig. 98.)
(2) To attach coil heels to new coil, place coil and heel assembly
in position on armature plate. Insert and tighten screws holding assem-
88
Figure 96. Removing nuts on breaker plate.
89
bly to plate. Solder high-tension leads and spark-plug wires to coil
in their respective positions. Use soldering paste or rosin flux. Do not,
under any circumstances, use acid flux. Use just enough heat, solder,
and flux to obtain a good substantial connection. Excessive heat is
likely to burn off small secondary lead from coil. Overuse of solder or
flux results in short circuits and renders coil inoperative.
(3) Coil heels must be made flush with boss armature plate (figs.
A, 99 and 100) to prevent striking pole shoes of magnet in the flywheel
when motor is in operation. This is done by tapping heel assemblies
with hammer as illustrated (fig. 99) or, if a lathe is available, by mounting
armature plate assembly on a mandrel between centers and turning
heel surfaces down until flush with boss on armature plate. (See A,
fig. 100.) Having completed this operation, draw down farther on all
screws in heel assembly to make certain coil is mounted securely.
/. To Remo ve Pist on Ring s fr om Pis ton . (1) Expand rings by
spreading with thumbs as illustrated in figure 102, and slide over end
of piston. There are three rings for each piston. Be careful to spread
only far enough to permit slipping off piston, as rings can be broken.
(2) Rings are placed in reverse order. Spread enough by hand to
slide over piston and into position in respective ring grooves.
(3) After long periods of operation the piston-ring grooves frequently
become clogged with carbon which requires removal to prevent
rings from sticking. This condition results in loss of compression and
lack of power.
(4) It is simple to remove carbon from ring grooves by scraping,
as shown in figure 103. A suitable scraper can be made easily from a
discarded file or hacksaw blade. Make it slightly narrower than ring
Figure 97. Detaching wires from coil.
grooves in piston, and sharp enough to scrape out accumulated carbon.
(5) After removing carbon from piston-ring grooves and before installing
new rings, make certain rings fit in piston grooves with no
indication of tight spots or binding. This can be determined by rolling
each ring around the piston in its respective groove as illustrated in
figure 104. Resistance is encountered where tight spots exist. This
may result from particles of carbon, burs in piston-ring grooves, or
high spots on edge of ring. Check grooves to see all carbon has been
removed. Burs usually can be removed with a sharp-edge scraper.
(6) Handle piston carefully, as burs are result of rough handling
or dropping.
(7) High spots on edges of rings can be dressed down by rubbing
edge of ring lightly over fine sandpaper or emery cloth placed on a flat
surface.
(8) Rings must fit freely in piston-ring grooves. Recommended
clearance in piston grooves is .0015 to .0025 inch. Piston rings and
piston grooves are machined to correct size at factory and fit properly
provided all carbon has been removed from piston grooves and there
are no burs.
(9) Piston rings are ground to size at factory, but it is advisable to
check gap clearance to make sure recommended gap of .005 to .010 inch
is maintained. Place each ring squarely in cylinder as illustrated in
figure 105. Insert feeler gauge between ends of ring. Repeat same
90
HEELS
Figure 98. Detaching heels from coil.
Figure 99. Setting coil heels flush with boss on armature plate
91
Figure 100. Turning down heel assemblies.
operation for each ring in respective cylinders. If clearance falls below
.005 inch, file end of ring carefully until desired gap is obtained. If
clearance is considerably in excess of .010 inch, cylinder is worn oversize
and should be replaced.
(10) Piston-ring specifications for the POLR-15 are:
Number of rings per piston............................ 3.
Diameter of ring................................................ 2.750 inches.
Width of ring.................................................... 0.125 inch.
Pounds of compression.................................... 4 pounds.
Gap clearance .................................................. 0.005 to 0.010 inch.
(11) If necessary to install a new piston it must be removed from the
connecting-rod assembly. The wrist pin is held fast in piston by a
setscrew made secure by a lock washer and lock nut. Loosen lock nut
and remove setscrew. Wrist pin then can be driven out. This is done
by placing assembly between the knees when sitting to prevent springing
piston as driving force is applied. (See fig. 106.) Drive from side
of piston containing wrist-pin setscrew and lock nut. If fit is snug,
hold piston in hot wrater to expand.
(12) In installing new piston, note hole in wrist pin and threaded hole
in wrist-pin boss. Insert wrist pin through opposite hole in piston, the
end of pin with hole entering first. Drive pin home. Hole in wrist pin
92
must line up with threaded hole in wrist-pin boss. Install wrist-pin
setscrew. Be sure end fits squarely into hole in wrist pin provided for
this purpose. When setscrew has been tightened, tighten lock nut with
locker washer in place, to secure setscrew properly.
g. To Remov e Cran ks ha ft fr om Cran kcas e . (1) The flywheel
keys first must be dislodged, as they protrude beyond inside diameter
of bearing. Both keys can easily be driven out of keyways by a small,
flat-end punch as illustrated in figure 107, taking care not to nick or
gouge the crankshaft taper. If accidentally nicked, simply dress down
with file prior to withdrawing crankshaft from bearing. Keys can be
removed before detaching crankcase assembly from drive-shaft casing.
(2) Remove crankcase head (fig. 108) to permit withdrawing crankshaft
as shown in figure 109. Assemble in reverse of order described
93
1 CRANKCASE 6 CON. ROD BOLT LOCK PLATE
2 CRANKSHAFT 7 ROLLER BEARING ASSEMBLY
3 FLYWHEEL KEYS 8 CRANKCASE HEAD
4 PISTON & CON. ROD ASSEMBLY 9 OIL SLINGER
5 CONNECTING ROD BOLT
Figure 101. Powerhead assembly group.
Figure 102. Expanding piston rings to remove them from piston grooves.
Figure 103. Scraping carbon from piston grooves.
above, being sure to install gasket between crankcase proper and crankcase
head. Draw nuts up tightly and evenly holding head in position.
Spread coat of oil on crankshaft journals and on bearing surfaces before
assembling.
94
Figure 104- Testing fit oj ring in piston groove.
Figure 105, Testing fit oj ring in cylinder,
95
Figure 106. Removing wrist pin from piston, using drive punch and hammer.
h. Assem ble Cranks haf t , Crank case , Pist ons , and Con nec tin g
Rods .
(1) Make certain all parts arc clean and in good mechanical condition.
(2) Spread thin coat of oil on crankshaft journals and crank pins,
and a few drops in bearings of crankcase and crankcase head.
(3) Insert crankshaft. (See fig. 109.)
(4) Install crankcase head, being sure gasket is in place and bolt
in position. Crankshaft should turn freely on completing this operation.
(5) Slip oil slinger over top of crankshaft. Tap down lightly, until
it rests on top surface of journal bearing in crankcase. Follow by
tapping both ends of crankshaft lightly with a mallet or hammer to
make sure clearance exists between oil slinger and top end of bearing.
Oil slinger should not ride or rub on bearing. Note groove cut in outside
wall of oil slinger, leaving a narrow edge and a wide edge. Narrow edge
should be directed downward. This is important to prevent oil escaping
from crankcase.
(6) Piston rings should be fitted properly. Correct gap clearance is
.005 to .010 inch, with no indication of binding at any point in the ringgroove.
Place several drops of oil in each ring groove. Turn rings
around in grooves to spread oil film.
96
kl
Figure 107. Removing flywheel keys with small flat-end punch and hammer
(7) Assemble roller bearings and retainers to crankpins. Note two
free rollers, one fitting on each side of the crankpin and between ends
of retainers.
(8) Note large ports in wall of piston and punch marks on connecting
rod and cap. When attaching connecting rod and piston assembly
to crankpins, ports in piston should be directed towards carburetor side
of crankcase. (See fig. 110.) Connecting rod and cap should be assembled
with both marks on same side.
(9) Turn crankshaft to bring crankpins to outermost position. Slip
connecting-rod cap back of crankpin and around rollers. Place piston
and rod assembly in position. Assemble lock plates and screws, makingsure
both marks are on same side. Tighten connecting-rod screws. Bend
two lugs protruding opposite each other on each lock plate down over
connecting rod.
(10) (a) Connecting rod and cap must be aligned properly. That
is, cap must line up perfectly with rod, and both sides must be flush.
This is done by turning roller assembly so gap between retainers comes
to rest over junction of cap and rod. By sliding a pencil over junction,
as shown in figure 111, it is simple to determine whether or not surfaces
are flush. If one side or other is high, drive high side down until flush
with other as shown in figure 112. Check again with pencil. Alien
97
Figure JOS. Removing crankcase head.
Figure 109. Withdrawing crankshaft.
98
surfaces are flush, tighten screw and bend remaining protruding lug up
and against screw head to lock in position.
(5) To attach cylinders, be sure cylinder walls and pistons are clean.
Spread film of oil on cylinder walls and skirt of piston. Install cylinderbase
gasket over studs on crankcase. It is not necessary to cement this
gasket. Compress piston rings with fingers as shown in figure 110.
Slide cylinder over piston and up to crankcase. To mount cylinder
securely, attach necessary washers and nuts and tighten. (See fig. 101.)
. i. Ass emble Gear Case . (1) Insert ball bearing through top opening
in gear case as shown in figure 114. Turn bearing around and press
into seat as far as possible with fingers. Bearing cannot be seated
unless square with seat. To square bearing, insert propeller shaft
through both bearings to line them up. Tap ball bearing in place by
tapping end of propeller shaft with a mallet.
(2) Withdraw propeller shaft until it is on verge of coming out of
bearing on propeller end. Insert bevel gear as shown in figure 115.
Turn gear around in gear case to permit sliding propeller shaft through
hole.
(3) Install Woodruff key in propeller-shaft keyway. Key must be
installed when end of propeller shaft has been inserted in gear case.
Propeller shaft cannot be pushed through bearing in gear case with
key installed.
(4) Key must line up with key way in gear. Push propeller shaft
through gear until gear is up against shoulder on the shaft. Continue
pushing propeller shaft until it enters hole in ball bearing. Then tap
lightly on end of propeller shaft to force bearing down in seat and gear
up to shoulder of shaft. Note small pin protruding at end of bearingseat
inside gear case. Drive in propeller shaft, gear, and bearing assembly
until bearing comes to rest against this pin.
(5) Install large washer, lock washer, small washer, and nut in order
as laid out in figure 113. Tighten nut with fingers for time being.
(6) Slip ball bearing over end of pinion shaft followed by gear, lock
washer, plain washer, and nut as shown in figure 113. Draw up tightly
on nut to make certain assembly is secure on pinion shaft. Bend ail
six lugs on lock washer up and against sides of nut to prevent its turning
and becoming loose.
(7) Insert pinion shaft, bearing, and gear assembly in upper section
of gear case. Install gear-case gasket. Attach upper gear-case section
to gear case by sliding over long studs. (See fig. 116.) Install spacers
on long studs; attach nuts and draw down tightly.
(8) Place gear-case assembly in vice (fig. 116) to tighten propellershaft
nut. Insert punch through propeller-pin hole to prevent turning
when tightening nut as illustrated. When nut has been drawn up sufficiently,
lock in place by bending at least three lugs of the lock washer
up and against side of nut.
(9) Install bearing retainer. Note slot provided for pin in gear case,
both of which must line up. Screw bearing lock nut in gear case to
prepare for adjusting gears.
110) To adjust gears, draw up tightly on bearing lock nut, that is,
until there is no clearance between bevel gear and pinion in gear case.
Unscrew lock nut approximately one-fourth turn. Strike end of propeller
shaft with mallet (fig. 117) to drive propeller-shaft and gear
assembly away from pinion to obtain necessary clearance between teeth
of gears. Turn propeller shaft with fingers to note if gears bind in any
99
Figure 110. Attaching cylinders to crankcase.
Figure 111. Testing rod and cap alignment to determine that surfaces are flush.
100
in reverse order of that de
Figure 112. Aligning rod and cap by forcing high side down until flush with
other side.
position. If binding occurs, unscrew lock nut slightly and drive propeller
shaft back again. When proper gear mesh has been attained,
there will be no binding between gears when turning propeller or pinion
shafts. A small amount of back lash should be noted.
(11) Install gasket, gearcase head, and gearcase head bolt. (See
fig. 119.)
(12) (a) Remove spacers, install gasket and thrust washer (fig. 118).
Attach gearcase assembly to motor. Be sure all nuts are tight. Fill
gearcase with gear lubricant.
(b) To disassemble gearcase, proceed
scribed above. Wash gear lubricant from parts and from gearcase to
inspect them.
j. Insta ll Journal Bea rin gs . 11) The journal bearings on model
POLR-15 seldom require replacing. While appearing to be loose when
compared to similar bearings in automotive use, they are fitted with
considerable clearance at factory to provide sufficient lubrication. No
noticeable crankcase compression is lost under these conditions and
bearings need replacing only when clearance has reached point where
oil from crankcase begins to smear on magneto armature plate.
(2) To install new crankshaft journal bearings, old bearings must
be removed. This is done on an arbor press, as illustrated in figure 120.
101
Figure 113. Gearcase assembly.
- 1 1
- 1 2
- 1 3
- 14
- 15
- 16
1 PROPELLER SHAFT 10 LOCK NUT (BEARING)
1 7 -
2 PROPELLER SHAFT KEY 11 PIN IO N SHAFT
3 BEVEL GEAR 12 BALL (THRUST) BEARING
4 BALL (THRUST) BEARING 13 PIN IO N GEAR
5 WASHER 14 LOCKWASHER
6 LOCKWASHER 15 WASHER
7 WASHER 16 NUT
8 NUT 17 THRUST WASHER
9 RETAINER
10 9 8 7 6 5 4
CM
Figure 115. Inserting bevel gear in gearcase
103
Figure 114- Inserting ball bearing in gearcase.
Figure 116. Gearcase assembly held in vice when tightening propeller-shaft nut.
Both top and bottom bearings are pressed out similarly. Use a round
bar or mandrel slightly smaller than bearing to permit driving all the
way through bearing bosses. Top bearing fits into crankcase proper
while bottom bearing is pressed into the crankcase head.
(3) To install new top, bearing crankcase is placed on press table
with bearing boss up in opposite position from that shown in figure
120. Bottom end of top bearing is machined to match contour of inside
of crankcase. Line up bearing with respect to contour of crankcase
and press into case until bottom of bearing is flush with inside of
crankcase. Note position of old bearing before pressing it out to install
a new one.
(4) To install bottom journal bearing, place crankcase head on press
table with inside surface up. Note oil holes in bearing and corresponding
holes in crankcase head. Align bearing accordingly, and press in
until thrust-face of bearing comes to rest solidly against head.
(5) After installing new journal bearings they must be reamed to
104
105
size; top bearing 1.002 inches, bottom bearing 1.042 inches. This permits
clearance of .003 inch at top and bottom journals, since they are
ground to .999 inch and 1.039 inches, respectively.
(6) To ream
bearings, attach crankcase head. Place crankcase
assembly in vice as shown in figure 121. Use wood blocks to prevent
injury to studs. Two reamers are used in this operation, the rough
reamer No. S-86 and the finish line reamer No. S-83. Insert pilot of
rough reamer through bottom journal bearing and on into top bearing
while turning reamer clockwise, facing bottom bearing. (See fig. 121.)
Reamers are provided with two cutters, one for each bearing. Turn
reamer, at same time forcing it gently forward until cutters pass
through bearing. Withdraw reamer slowly with clockwise turning
motion. Insert finish line reamer and proceed in like manner. The
bearing now should be reamed to correct size and ready for assembly
of the motor.
Figure 117. Driving out end of propeller shaft to obtain necessary clearance.
13 PINION GEAR
14 LOCKWASHER
15 WASHER
16 NUT
17 THRUST WASHER
12
3
4
56
7
8
9
10
11
12
PROPELLER SHAFT
PROPELLER SHAFT KEY
BEVEL GEAR
BALL (THRUST)
BEARING
WASHER
LOCKWASHER
WASHER
NUT
RETAINER
LOCK NUT (BEARING)
PINION SHAFT
BALL (THRUST) BEARING
Figure 118. Gearcase assembly.
106
^11
^13
7
/ 6
A9
V10
X8
^5
4
x3
12
14
15
1 x
16
2
17
THRUST WASHER
CLAMP SCREW
LOCKWASHER
STERN BRACKET
DRIVE SHAFT CASING
.QUADRANT
WATER PIPES
REVERSE LOCK
DRIVE SHAFT
WATER PIPE
THRUST WASHER
GASKET
BOLT
PINION SHAFT
BEARING
PINION GEAR
RETAINER
GEAR CASE HEAD BOLT
GEAR CASE HEAD
EXHAUST
OUTLET
GEAR CASE (UPPER SECTION
(PINION SHAFT CASING)
SWIVEL BRACKET
COMPLETE WITH 'A'
BOLTS FOR
SWIVEL BRACKET
WATERSCOOP
(INLET)
GEAR CASE ---------'
(LOWER SECTION)
Figure 119. Lower-unit assembly.
BEVEL GEAR GASKET
PROPELLER SHAFT
GREASE SEAL
WATER ____ / r
OUTLET |
GASKET
| L THRUST SOCKET BOLT
THRUST SOCKET
107
- LOCKNUT
-BEARING
Figure 120. Pressing out bearing.
k. Insta ll Bus hin g in Gear Case . (1) Since the gear case has
one bushing (propeller-shaft bearing) and one ball bearing (propellershaft
thrust bearing), only one reaming operation is required when
replacing propeller-shaft bearing. The ball bearing is removed and
replaced as a unit. (See figs. 113 and 118.)
(2) To install a new propeller-shaft bearing or bushing the old one
must be removed. This can be done by driving it out on an arbor press
as in removing journal bearings. Place gear case on table of press with
bushing downward, opposite from position shown in figure 122. Use
round bar or mandrel slightly smaller than bushing to permit driving
108
Figure 121. Reaming bearing.
reamer
109
reaming. Turn reamer
all the way out. Install new bushing. Drive bushing clown until shoulder
rests firmly against gear case.
(3) Ream bearing to size .875 inch as shown in figure 123. Use
reamer No. S-94. Place gear case in vice. Note large pilot on right
side of gear case. Insert reamer, pilot on reamer in propeller-shaft
bearing, and large pilot fitting over reamer shaft into the gear case to
obtain correct alignment when in clockwise
direction, facing back of gear case, at same time forcing gently forward
until cutter passes through bearing. Withdraw reamer slowly with
same turning motion.
I. Ins ta ll Bearin g in Pinio n -shaf t Casin g . (1) The pinion-shaft
casing, like the gear case, has one
bushing and one ball bearing.
Consequently, only one reaming operation is necessary to install new
bearing. To install a new bushing the old one must be driven out and
a new one pressed in, while the ball bearing is removed and replaced
as a unit. (See figs. 113 and 118.)
(2) To drive out top bushing, place pinion-shaft case on table of
press as shown in figure 124. Insert round bar or mandrel slightly
smaller than bushing to permit driving all way out. To install new
bushing, place case on table of press with bushing side up. Press in
new bushing until thrust face rests solidly against casing.
Figure 122. Installing bushing in gearcase.
(3) Place casing in vice to ream bearing as illustrated in figure 125.
Ream to size .625 inch with reamer No. S-95, in manner similar to
reaming propeller-shaft bearing.
no
Ill
Figure 123. Reaming gearcase bearing.
25. Recommended Tools
2 screw drivers, one 8-inch and one 10-inch.
1 riveting hammer, medium size, %-pound.
2 pin punches, %2_%2-
1 plier, 6-inch.
1 needle-nose plier, 6-inch.
1 tee-handle screw driver, large.
1 speed handle for sockets, ^-inch shank.
1 L-handle, %-inch shank.
1 y16-inch socket, iZ>-inch shank opening.
1 ^-inch socket, %-inch shank opening.
1 %6-inch socket, Uj-inch shank opening.
1 34-inch socket, %-inch shank opening.
1 adjustable (10-inch crescent) wrench.
1 open-end wrench, %- by %6-inch.
1 open-end wrench, %- by %6-inch.
1 open-end wrench, 7/1(i- by %6-inch, box on one end.
1 open-end wrench, %6-inch at 45°; other end %6-inch at 90°.
1 open-end wrench, %-inch; one end box, %-inch.
1 large rawhide hammer.
1 small rawhide mallet.
1 ^-inch brass rod 8 inches long, for removing propeller shaft.
Figure 12}. Driving out bearing in pinion-shaft casing.
Table T. Table of tolerances POLR-15
Tolerances in inches
Cylinder diameter ....................
Clearance in cylinder at top.. ..
Clearance in cylinder at bottom
Piston tolerances
Piston diameter at top land. . . .
Piston diameter at bottom land
Piston ring
Piston-ring diameter................
Width of ring............................
Crankshaft tolerances..............
Top journal ..............................
Bottom journal.........................
Connecting-rod pin..................
2.750
.0115
.0055
2.73S5
2.7445
2.750
.125
.999
1.039
.9985
Plus .0005; minus .0005.
Plus .0000; minus .0005.
Plus .0000; minus .0005.
Plus .0000; minus .0005.
Plus .0000; minus .0005.
Plus .0000; minus .0005.
Plus .0000; minus .0005.
112
Figure 125. Reaming pinion-shaft bearing.
113
APPENDIX I
STORM-BOAT MOTOR ILLUSTRATIONS
(Evinrude Model 8008)
Figure 126. Operator’s emergency kit. (Tools and accessories are listed
at end of parts section.)
114
5 (COMPLETE WITH CONTENTS)
6 (WITH TRAY ONLY)
14
15
16 I
18
1 2 3 4
9
7
8
10 11 12
17
22
23
24
30 26 27
29
13 28
19
21
20
25
ACCESSORIES
.. .......min
Key to figure 126.
No. Part No. N omenclature
1 120,223 Propeller nut cotterpin.
2 130,295 Propeller nut.
3 201,043 Crankshaft nut.
4 275,786 Breaker plate assembly.
5 275,800 Operator’s emergency kit, complete with contents.
6 275,801 Operator’s emergency kit, with tray only.
7 201,131 Propeller nut washer.
8 201,036 Starter drum screw.
9 131,133 Propeller shear pin.
10 130,314 Grease plug.
11 201,236 Feeler gauge.
12 275,785 Breaker arm.
13 275,803 Carrying handle and paddle.
14 275,778 Ball peen hammer, 1 pound.
15 275,776 Pliers, 8-inch.
16 275,777 Screw driver, 10-inch.
17 194,046 Screw driver, 3^-inch.
18 201,111 Drift punch, lo-incli.
19 160,153 Open-end wrench, %- by 1-inch.
20 160,152 Open-end wrench, i9®- by %-inch.
21 160,151 Open-end wrench, i7- by t^-inch.
22 201,113 Coil No. 16 galvanized steel wire.
23 275.655 Starter-rope assembly.
24 201,112 Roll friction tape, %-inch.
25 275,875 Spark plug, Champion, R7.
26 200,258 Oil measuring cup.
27 201,157 Propeller.
28 275,811 Canvas motor cover.
29 275,851 Filtering funnel.
30 190,154 Monkey wrench.
115
116
Figure 127. Motor assembly.
41 LESS PROPELLER
-42
•-*- 43
-40
33
-25
26
>17
-18
-19
22
-14
, 15
,16
13
1 X
2
3
+
4
5
6
7
- 21
9
-20
23
27
28
24
31 32
38
>39
34
36
37
-35
29
30
117
Key to figure 127.
No. Part No. Nomenclature
1 120,177 Lockwasher, % ID by Vs W by -A.--inch Th.
2 130,202 Nut, %-inch.
3 275,802 Motor cover assembly.
4 130,162 Nut, tk-inch.
5 120,255 Lockwasher, tk ID by 32 W by kk Th.
6 275,726 Carburetor assembly.
7 275.798 Gasoline-pipe assembly.
8 275,885 Muffler stud and nut assembly.
9 201.047 Carburetor gasket.
10 131,254 Gasoline-tank screw, ik-inch.
11 120.255 Lockwasher, fs ID by JL- W by Jk Th.
12 201,044 Muffler gasket.
13 275.475 Filler-cap assembly.
14 275.723 Gas-tank assembly.
15 275,781 Muffler and plug assembly, upper.
16 120,061 Lockwasher, % ID by % W by A Th.
17 132,832 Muffler-extension stud.
18 130.162 Nut, ik-inch.
19 120,255 Lockwasher, A ID by /2W by 3% Th.
20 275,788 Steering-handle assembly.
21 275.824 Steering-handle-support assembly.
22 275,782 Muffler and plug assembly, lower.
23 120,908 Tilting-bolt washer, %-inch.
24 201.155 Tilting bolt.
25 120,255 Lockwasher, tk ID by Jk W by kV Th.
26 131,424 Muffler screw, tk-inch.
27 130,084 Tilting-bolt nut.
28 275.830 Tilt-up hook assembly.
29 201,191 Tilt-up hook washer.
30 201.156 Pivot-bearing friction washer.
31 275,819 Pivot-bearing assembly.
32 275.797 Water-pipe assembly.
33 275,722 Muffler overflow pipe assembly.
34 275,826 Bipod assembly complete.
35 201.160 Fulcrum pin.
36 131,981 Drive-shaft housing clamp screw.
37 120.574 Washer.
38 275.825 Drive-shaft housing assembly.
39 131.484 Gear housing flange stud nut.
40 201.142 Muffler tube.
41 275.822 Gear-housing assembly.
42 201.157 Propeller.
43 130.295 Propeller nut.
No. Part No.
1 130,524
2 100,680
3 170,418
4 191,446
5 201,030
6 201,029
7 120,061
8 170,753
9 275,709
10 131,888
11 120,042
12 201,196
13 101,897
14 132,803
15 275,850
16 120,658
Key to figure 128.
Nomenclature
Crankcase lower bearing screw.
Crankshaft bearing, lower.
Crankcase gasket, oh-inch.
Crankshaft ball bearing assembly, lower.
Center bearing locating dowel screw.
Center-bearing screw.
Lockwasher, % ID by Ai W by -fir Th.
Center bearing locating dowel screw gasket.
Crankshaft and bushing.
Center-bearing screw.
Center-bearing-screw lockwasher.
Center bearing roller bearing retainer.
Center-bearing seal.
Center-bearing roller.
Crankshaft center bearing assembly.
Flywheel key.
118
Figure 128. Powerhead assembly.
43 ROLLER
44 RETAINER
45 ASSEMBLY
»-40
-3 9
- 38
-51
-5 2
-53
31
■ 30
■29
41
42
No. Part No.
17 191.449
18 131,919
19 192,632
20 120,579
21 131,868
22 130,791
23 130,282
24 275,718
25 275,884
26 275,719
27 275,716
28 275,827
29 131,869
30 120,265
31 130,690
32 275,745
33 275.744
34 275,743
35 133.453
36 201*062
37 275,742
38 201,082
39 201.036
40 201,043
41 170,755
42 130.790
43 131'300
44 120,582
45 194,480
46 120,011
47 130.789
48 100.801
49 275,747
50 201.077
51 120.177
52 130,202
53 275,714
54 201,032
55 132,565
56 171,102
57 275,718
58 275,719
59 120,025
60 130.202
61 275,875
62 171.109
63 130,201
64 201.081
65 101.160
66 120',054
67 201,084
68 130.202
Key to figure 128—Continued.
N omenclalure
Crankshaft ball bearing clamp ring and stud assembly.
Crankshaft clamp ring stud.
Crankshaft ball bearing assembly, upper.
Crankshaft lock nut lockwasher.
Crankshaft lock nut.
Driveshaft tube flange stud.
Cylinder stud.
Cylinder head and plug assembly.
Spark plug cover and carrying handle socket assembly. L. H.
Cylinder head and plug assembly. L. H. upper or R. H. lower.
Cylinder and stud assembly, L. H.
Crankcase and stud assembly.
Crankshaft ball bearing adjusting screw.
Crankshaft clamp ring stud nut washer.
Crankshaft clamp ring stud.
High-tension cable, short.
High-tension cable, long.
Armature base complete.
Armature hold-down screw.
Armature handle.
Flywheel assembly.
Starter drum.
Starter-drum screw.
Crankshaft nut.
Cylinder gasket.
Connecting-rod screw.
Connecting-rod roller.
Connecting-rod-roller retainer.
Connecting-rod assembly.
Piston-pin spring ring.
Piston pin.
Piston ring.
Piston and rings.
Armature-base stop.
Lockwasher, % ID by % W by Th.
Nut, %-inch.
Cylinder and stud assembly. R. H.
Cylinder-head stud, long.
Cylinder-head stud, short.
Cylinder-head gasket.
Cylinder head and plug assembly, R.H. upper or L. H. lower.
Cylinder head and plug assembly, L. H. upper or R. H. lower.
Cylinder-head stud-nut washer.
Nut, %-inch.
Spark plug, Champion, R7.
Inlet water manifold gasket.
Inlet water manifold stud nut.
Inlet water manifold, L. H.
Inlet water elbow.
Lockwasher, 14 ID by W by A Th.
Spark-plug cover and carrying-handle socket, R. H.
Nut, %-inch.
119
MAGNETO—ARMATURE PLATE
(TOP VIEW)
275655 STARTER ROPE ASSEMBLY
i!O1 199 CUT OUT SPRING
201200 CUT OUT PIN
275746
201198 CUT OUT BLOCK
120052 CONDENSER
SCREW LOCKWASHER
130516 CUT OUT SPRING]
AND TERMINAL SCREW
201248 SPRING PLATE!
275743 ARMATURE
BASE COMPLETE
120122 CUT OUT BLOCK
SCREW LOCKWASHER
130149
CUT OUT BLOCK SCREW
201061
ARMATURE BASE ONLY
130147
CONDENSER SCREW
201067
CUT OUT WIRE TERMINAL
201 124 BREAKER
SPRING SCREW
201121 BREAKER
ARM POST WASHER
171418 CONTACT SCREW
INSULATING BUSHING
201122 BREAKER
ARM POST
SPRING CLIP
201049 BREAKER
PLATE ADJ. SCREW
201241 CONTACT
& POINT
201242 BREAKER
TERMINAL
131207 BREAKER
SPRING SCREW NUT
201 123 BREAKER
ARM POST
120016 WIRE
TERMINAL CLIP
201120 BREAKER
PLATE ADJ. SCREW
WASHER
130148 COIL
ASSEMBLY SCREW
275784
COIL ASSEMBLY
1714 16 CONTACT SCREW
INSULATING WASHER
275785 BREAKER
ARM WITH SPRING
& POINT
275828 MAGNETO COMPLETE
(LESS STARTER DRUM)
121087 CONTACT SCREW
WASHER
131207 CONTACT SCREW
NUT
201236 FEELER GUAGE
______ |
8
PLATE
SCREW
275786 BREAKER
ASSEMBLY
PLATE
Figure IF). Magneto, armature plate—top view.
120
MAGNETO -ARMATURE PLATE
(BOTTOM VIEW)
201076 ARMATURE
CASE FRICTION PIN
132990 ARMATURE
BASE HUB SCREW
120054 ARMATURE BASE
HANDLE SCREW LOCKWASHER
130395 ARMATURE BASE
HANDLE SCREW
201062 ARMATURE BASE
HANDLE
201066 ARMATURE
BASE FRICTION
SCREW SPRING
WASHER
201065 ARMATURE
BASE FRICTION
SCREW
201063 ARMATURE
BASE HUB
275744 H. T.
CABLE "LONG"
Figure 130. Magneto, armature plate—bottom view.
121
201 118 H. T. CABLE
/ BUSHING CLAMP
' 201 117 H. T. CABLE
, BUSHING
130149 H. T. CABLE
, BUSHING CLAMP SCREW
120122 H. T. CABLE
BUSHING CLAMP SCREW
X LOCKWASHER
201064 CONDENSER
275745 H. T. CABLE
,“SHORT"
201206 H. T. CABLE
/cla mp
201 197 H. T. CABLE CCLAMP
201068 ARMATURE BASE/
QUADRANT /
131016 H. T. CABLE/
CLAMP SCREW
120052 H. T. CABLE
CLAMP SCREW 7
LOCKWASHER /
131016 ARMATURE BASE'
QUADRANT SCREW /
120052 ARMATURE BASE /
QUADRANT SCREW'
LOCKWASHER
122
-40
41
42
-43
Figure 131. Magneto, armature assembly.
34-
35
36x
20
:’o
r 12
. 13
- 14
- 15
- 16
30
.31
.32
23-
24"
25
26 -
27 s
21*
22-
17,
2 -
3-
4 ,
5 '
6 x
• 37
Y 29
33
38
39 Z
Key to figure 131.
No. Part No. N omenclature
1 130,148 Condenser-assembly screw.
2 201,122 Breaker arm post spring clip.
3 201,121 Breaker arm post washer.
4 275,785 Breaker arm with spring and point.
5 20 LI 23 Breaker arm.
6 201.049 Breaker plate adjusting screw..
7 130,149 Screw 8-32-%-inch.
8 120,122 Lockwasher, 8 by A W by A Th.
9 120^)52 Lockwasher, t ® ID by i1® W by & Th.
10 130,147 Condenser screw.
11 201,064 Condenser.
12 201,120 Breaker plate adjusting screw washer.
13 275,786 Breaker-plate assembly.
14 201,124 Breaker spring screw.
15 131,207 Nut, 6-32 hexagon.
16 201.200 Cut-out pin.
17 275,784 Coil assembly.
18 275,746 Cut-out assembly.
19 275,744 High-tension cable, long.
20 201,062 Armature handle.
21 130,395 Armature-handle screw.
22 120,054 Lockwasher, % ID by W by A Th.
23 201,068 Armature-base quadrant.
24 120,052 Lockwasher.
25 131,016 Screw, 10-24-%-inch long.
26 201,117 High-tension-cable bushing.
27 201,118 High-tension-cable bushing clamp.
28 132,990 Screw, 10-24-%-inch long.
29 201,063 Armature-base hub.
30 201,076 Armature-base friction pin.
31 201,066 Armature-base friction screw spring washer
32 201,065 Armature-base friction screw.
33 275,745 High-tension cable, short.
34 201,197 High-tension cable clamp.
35 120,052 Lockwasher, ®® ID by A W by ®j Th.
36 131,016 Screw, 10-24-14-inch long.
37 201,117 High-tension-cable bushing.
38 120,122 Lockwasher, 8 by A W by A Th.
39 130,149 Screw, 8-32-%-inch long.
40 201,118 High-tension cable bushing clamp.
41 201,206 High-tension cable clamp.
42 120,122 Lockwasher.
43 130,149 Screw.
123
Figure 132. Carburetor assembly.
124
- 1
2
-3
4
5 ■
6
7
9 -
11-
10
-12
■ 13
14
15
16
17
-19
- 20
I 22
18 —
21-
23 > 24 2
25
.26
- 27
■28
-33
)
-34
-35
36
-37
- 38
50
51
52
46-
47-
48
45
44
29
30
31
32
49;
42
43
Key I
‘31109 FUEL PASSAGE SCREW___
171108 FUEL PASSAGE SCREW___
GASKET
201047 CARBURETOR
GASKET
BACK VIEW
Figure 133. Carburetor—side view, top view, back view.
126
ETOR II
201125 PRIMER PLUNGER . SIDE VIEW /*------------201 164 PRIMER CUP ||||
STE SEAT (RIGHT FACING CARBURETOR)/ < 201165 CHECK VALVE SPRING
2 5739 ^ZZLE ASSEm1ly \A. IC.OJJ 1KTI0N! / A.2O1055 PRIMER PLUNGER RING ||||
201056 PRIMER PLUNGER. X/\ Ilf201114 PRIMER SPRING
STEM N. \\ //// /2O,°58 PRIMER CHECK VALVE |||k |
201059 PRIMER BODY SEAl N. \\ III BODY PIN igg
\\ \ \ //// / 275740 CARB. PRIMER
\\ \\ //// / / PLUNGER a s s emb ly gME
\ \ Z/// /zrr-rvn-X 275741 CARB. PRIMER
—''CHECK VALVE ASSBLY. Sgfe.
VBk JA-------- 170191 CARB. PRIMER
XT ! N \X \\ CHECK VALVE GASKET %g3g| I S \ \ 201057 CARB. PRIMER jjgggg
| \ \ X. CHECK VALVE BODY jOgl
| \ X 201 165 CARB. PRIMER Swg®
,-Jj t' Ubi n \ CHECK VALVE SPRING IgjgjSg
201164 CARB. PRIMER CUP
RAd ■ *
° - 24
^-^25
W' X - 26 ASSEMBLY
- 27
I
Figure 135. Drive-housing assembly.
128
Key to figure 135.
4-
No. Part No. N omenclature
1 275,788 Sterring-handle assembly.
2 200,930 Steering-handle screw.
3 200,929 Steering handle friction washer.
4 120.574 Washer.
5 130.541 Nut.
6 275^824 Steering-handle-support assembly.
7 171,187 Steering-handle-support rubber.
8 120,177 Lockwasher, % ID by % W by Js Th.
9 133,128 Steering-handle-support screw.
10 130,202 Nut, %-24-ii Th.
11 131,678 Pivot-bearing clampscrew.
12 120,177 Lockwasher.
13 275,819 Pivot-bearing assembly.
14 120,177 Lockwasher.
15 201,149 Pivot-bearing bushing retainer screw.
16 201,150 Pivot-bearing bushing retainer.
17 201,151 Pivot-bearing bushing.
18 130,738 Water-pipe connector.
19 131,981 Driveshaft housing clamp screw.
20 201,214 Driveshaft tube screw.
21 131,981 Driveshaft housing clamp screw.
22 120,195 Driveshaft tube screw lockwasher.
23 120,574 Washer.
24 131,484 Gear-housing flange stud nut.
25 120.574 Washer.
26 275,825 Driveshaft-housing assembly.
27 201.141 Driveshaft, upper.
129
5
ass em bl y
Figure 136. Gear-housing assembly.
130
12
3
4
- 7
=• 8
- 9
10
11
,2t
7
13
-18
-19
-20
- 21
/ 34
— 35
24
z25 28
33
31
23
22
26
27
30'
32
14
15
16
17
6
i
131
Key to figure 136.
No. Part No. Nomenclature
1 131,452 Driveshaft coupler.
2 131,075 Driveshaft-coupler pin.
3 200,834 Impeller water seal.
4 100,885 Pump impeller.
5 275,594 Driveshaft and impeller assembly, lower.
6 132,379 Driveshaft, lower.
7 120,827 Driveshaft sealing washer retainer.
8 200,580 Driveshaft grease seal.
9 170,792 Driveshaft bushing, upper.
10 102,384 Driveshaft bushing lower.
11 201,134 Gear-housing-flange stud.
12 130,314 Grease plug. *
13 201,135 Gear-housing plug.
14 120,073 Roller-bearing cup.
15 190,286 Propeller shaft thrust roller bearing cone assembly.
16 200,924 Driveshaft thrust bearing.
17 201,138 Propeller-shaft gear pin.
18 120,073 Roller-bearing cup.
19 190,285 Driveshaft roller bearing cone assembly.
20 131,450 Driveshaft gear.
21 200,919 Propeller-shaft gear.
22 201,137 Propeller shaft.
23 200,416 Propeller-shaft-gear key.
24 200,922 Gear-housing-cap gasket.
25 191,535 Propeller-shaft ball bearing assembly.
26 200,920 Gear-housing-cover bushing.
27 275,820 Gear-housing cap and bushing.
28 201,136 Gear-housing-cap screw.
29 201,136 Gear-housing-cap screw.
30 200,923 Propeller-shaft grease seal.
31 201,140 Propeller-shaft sealing washer retainer
32 131,133 Propeller shear pin.
33 201,157 Propeller.
34 201,131 Propeller-nut washer.
35 120,223 Propeller-nut cotter pin.
36 130,295 Propeller nut.
BI-POD
201156 PIVOT BEARING FRICTION WASHER
275830 TILT-UP HOOK ASSEMBLY.
201191 TILT-UP HOOK WASHER \
-275826 BI-POD ASSEMBLY COMPLETE
—120908 TILTING BOLT WASHER
-130084 TILTING BOLT NUT
/ -201155 TILTING BOLT
k------------- 275796 BI-POD ONLY------------
-201158 BI-POD FOOT.
—120599 FULCRUM PIN COTTER PIN.
201160 FULCRUM PIN— ’
201188 T1LT-UP STOP 201159 THRUST SOCKET
Figure 137. Bipod assembly.
132

APPENDIX II
POLR MOTOR ILLUSTRATIONS
(Johnson Model POLR-15)
2 5 ' /M—------------------------
I I I ® I [ (c Q - ©A
i 6 3 x o
1O~T - i X
Li X 75 12 |I[Jm 11 // ViT '7 i1 73xfo.>. —■ .. |*O tnrnirJ 33 J*—-38'
Al g-J"' <
Ip 42 m'z—x x-xU 36\ 1 ? © o ©
R I I
-35/ \ r\.. d L cd Lj
LJ || aSembl y [gj
" 34 51 / 62
O« /F§?\ O g l Q-*— 63
1 2 -71'©..“
J q _49 54d ^ASSEMBLY
I O)*-SO 55 ASSEMBLY 57 67
Figure 138. Powerhead parts.
134
I ?
No. Part No.
1 21-601
2 7-227
3 37-109
4 37-108
5 29-179
6 34-19
7 71-1311
8 7-47
9 5-48
10 21-33
11 71-765
12 71-870
13 71-872
14 21-38
15 21-381
16 29-169
17 21-381
18 21-39
19 21-376
20 21-152
21 29-168
22 19-124
23 19-136
24 15-249
25 71-1,308
26 21-377
27 21-428
28 300,134
29 43-300
30 41-37
31 300,821
32 21-102
33 21-391
34 30-113
35 22-143
36 22-142
37 29-69
38 17-131
39 17-132
40 30-63
41 17-30
42 7-47
43 21-118
44 21-230
45 30-124
46 21-380
47 21-373
48 22-140
49 21-379
50 21-374
51 21-97
52 21-98
53 7-47
54 7-45
55 375,319
56 17-139
57 300,826
58 300,828
59 7-261
60 375,322
61 21-99
Key to figure 138.
Nomenclature
Screw, steering handle to cylinder.
Lockwasher, 32-inch.
Rubber washer, steering handle to cylinder.
Retainer washer, steering handle to cylinder.
Rubber base, steering handle.
Filler cap—gas tank.
Screw, gas-tank support.
Lockwasher, lower unit and muffler to power head, gas-tank
screws.
Gasket, filler cap.
Bracket, steering handle.
Screw, quadrant, magneto, and ground wire to steering handle.
Plug, insulator for cut-out wire.
Packing washer for cut-out-wire plug.
Nut, hinge pin, steering handle.
Thrust washer, hinge pin.
Hinge, steering handle.
Thrust washer, hinge pin.
Washer, hinge-pin nut.
Hinge pin, steering handle.
Screw, bracket and steering handle hinge and relief valve bracket.
Clampscrew, Bowdin cable.
Lockwasher, clamp screw control cable.
Nut, clamp screw control cable and wrist-pin lockscrew.
Clamp screw, swivel nut.
Swivel nut, control cable.
Control handle, steering handle.
Attachment—plug body.
Spark-plug cover.
Lock-ring spark plug cox er screw.
Screw, spark-plug cover.
Plate, exhaust outlet.
Gasket, muffler outlet and plate.
Tube, steering handle.
Control cable, carburetor.
Grip and tube assembly, steering handle.
Contact block and lead, steering handle.
Gas line only.
Gland, gasoline line.
Nut, gasoline line.
Gas-line assembly.
Eyenut, muffler.
Lockwasher, lower unit and muffler to power head, gas-tank
screw.
Stud, muffler eyenut.
Core plug, muffler.
Muffler assembly.
Washer, steering-handle cap.
Spring, stop switch.
Push button, steering-handle cap.
Washer, stop button.
Cap, steering handle.
Gasket, muffler to cylinder.
Stud, muffler.
Lockwasher, lower unit and muffler to power head, gas-tank
screws.
Nut, %-inch.
Water-tube assembly, inlet.
Nut, water tube.
Water pipe, inlet.
Screw gland, muffler plate.
Gland, water tube.
Muffler-cover assembly.
Gasket, muffler cover.
135
fl
Key to figure 138—Continued.
No. Part No. Nomenclature
62 7-227 Lockwasher.
63 7-116 Screw, muffler to muffler cover.
64 300,828 Screw gland, muffler plate.
65 300,825 Water pipe, outlet.
66 375,320 Water-tube assembly, outlet.
67 17-139 Nut, water tube.
68 7-261 Gland, water tube.
80 21-486 Screw, exhaust outlet, long.
69 375,318 Hand-rail assembly.
70 30-121 Gas tank.
71 22-44 Shut-off valve, gas tank.
72 300,824 Cap screw, handrail to muffler.
73 300,819 Outlet, exhaust.
74 21-102 Gasket, muffler outlet and plate.
75 17-218 Spacer, gas-tank support.
76 7-47 Lockwasher.
77 7-227 Lockwasher.
78 21-202 Screw, gas tank to cylinder.
79 53-81 Screw, exhaust outlet, short.
136

Figure 139. Powerhead.
22
23
24
25
r 26
27
28
29
130
L 32
L 33
-3 4 V41 L 4 4 .
42^
43-,
"135
//f136 37 / V\ 3 8 o n 3 9 1
O K CO O
L45
46
_,47
48
49
/ 2 0 t 2 l
1 6
2 7 -3 8
4 9
5 10
11-
i2h
13»
14"’
15”W
138
Key to figure 139.
No. Part No. Nomenclature
1 22-137 Relief-valve lever and shaft.
2 21-114 Spring, relief valve.
3 21-110 Bushing, relief valve.
4 21-113 Lever, bypass and relief valve.
5 13—481 Lockwasher, If-inch.
6 7-45 Nut.
7 85-64 Locknut, throttle-adjusting screw.
8 15-197 Ball joint, bypass to relief valve.
9 85-64 Locknut. .
10 29-21 Rod, bypass valve to relief valve.
11 21-108 Lever, relief valve.
12 15-213 Cotter pin, relief valve.
13 21-165 Washer, relief valve.
14 21-222 Spring, relief valve.
15 29-16 Relief valve.
16 21-352 Bracket, relief valve.
17 21-152 Clamp screw, relief-valve bracket.
18 7-227 Lockwasher, H-inch.
19 7-46 Nut.
20 29-10 Piston ring.
21 29-158 Cylinder head, port.
22 29-13 Bypass valve.
23 21-190 Gasket, bypass valve.
24 21-116 Bearing, bypass valve.
25 21-212 Spring, bypass valve.
26 21-213 Washer, bypass valve.
27 21-113 Washer.
28 13-481 Lockwasher, si-inch.
29 7-45 Nut. .
30 19-139 Key, bypass valve lever and relief valve shaft No. 2
31 30-24 Cylinder, port.
32 21-294 Lockplates, connecting rod.
33 29-178 Screw, connecting rod.
34 30-118 Connecting rod with lockplate.
35 30-123 Crankshaft.
36 21-198 Key, crankshaft No. 9.
37 30-122 Crankcase complete with bearings.
as 29-15 Gasket, cylinder base.
39 30-23 Cylinder, starboard.
40 29-155 Rollers, connecting rod.
41 29-156 Retainers, connecting rod.
42 29-157 Cylinder head, starboard.
43 29-51 Gasket, cylinder head.
44 21-98 Stud, muffler.
45 29-154 Piston.
46 21-44 Lockscrew, wristpin.
47 19-136 Nut, wristpin.
48 19-137 Lockwasher.
49 29-11 Wristpin, piston.
139
Figure 140. Powerhead parts.
Key to figure I40.
No. Part No. Nomenclature
1 76-131 Spark plug.
2 7-45 Nut, %-inch.
3 21-154 Washer, cylinder-head stud.
4 29-157 Cylinder head, starboard.
5 21-153 Stud, cylinder head.
6 21-191 Dowel pin, cylinder head.
7 300,823 Stud, cylinder head, port and starboard.
8 300,830 Spacer, handrail.
9 30-23 Cylinder, starboard.
10 29-10 Piston rings.
11 29-154 Piston.
12 29-11 Wrist pin, piston.
13 7-258 Tee, crankcase head.
14 30-18 Water tube, inlet.
15 17-138 Elbow, water tube.
16 22-92 Water tube, outlet, starboard.
17 51-47 Screw, ratchet-lever bracket.
18 13-52 Lockwasher.
19 21-396 Bracket, ratchet lever.
140
62
63
64
65
66
67
Sl-
78—
79 —
80 —
81
82
84
49
48
47
,35
46
43-
44 /
27 45
28 29 30
12
/
11
10
25
24 41
42
60
75
58
70'
73
74
59
77
7:
76
72'
71
23
9 22
STAR
8
4
7
6.
_56
PORT
57.
61
26
13
31
34
14
33 32
15
• 50
83 85 86
16
1
3
5
17
21
20
36
37 52
53
54
55
69
68
38
18
19 '
39
.40
ft
No. Part No.
20 7-261
21 17-139
22 29-15
23 51-115
24 7-46
25 30-118
26 29-178
27 21-294
28 19-137
29 19-136
30 21-44
31 30-131
32 13-304
33 13-305
34 13-365
35 13-364
36 21-434
37 15-194
38 29-159
39 15-34
40 30-122
41 21-198
42 30-123
43 21-29
44 29-155
45 29-156
46 21-431
47 22-375, 119
48 21-189
49 7-47
50 7-45
51 21-28
52 15-213
53 21-165
54 21-222
55 29-16
56 30-24
57 300,823
58 300,830
59 7-227
60 29-13
61 21-190
62 21-116
63 21-212
64 21-213
65 21-113
66 13-481
67 7-45
68 22-93
69 29-51
70 29-158
71 7-46
72 22-137
73 19-139
74 21-152
75 7-227
76 21-352
77 21-108
78 21-114
79 21-110
80 21-113
81 13-481
82 7-45
83 29-21
84 85-64
85 85-64
86 15-197
Key to figure HO—Continued.
Nomenclature
Gland, water tube.
Nut, water tube.
Gasket, cylinder base.
Washer, cylinder-base studs.
Nut. .
Connecting rod with lockplate.
Screw, connecting rod.
Lockplate, connecting-rod screw.
Lockwasher, wrist-pin lockscrew.
Nut.
Lockscrew, wrist pin.
Oil-line assembly.
Gland, drain tube and oil line.
Nut, drain tube and oil line.
Straight connection.
Elbow, carburetor drain and oil line.
Oil slinger, crankshaft.
Nut, flywheel.
Journal bearing, upper.
Lockwasher, flywheel nut.
Crankcase complete with bearing.
Key, crankshaft.
Crankshaft.
Gasket, crankcase head to crankcase.
Rollers, connecting-rod bearing.
Retainers, connecting-rod bearing.
Journal bearing, lower.
Crankcase head and bearing.
Stud, powerhead to lower unit.
Lockwasher.
Nut, %-inch.
Gasket, crankcase to lower unit.
Cotter pin, relief valve.
Washer, relief valve.
Spring, relief valve.
Relief valve.
Cylinder, port.
Stud, cylinder head.
Spacer, hand rail.
Lockwasher.
Bypass valve.
Gasket, bypass valve.
Bearing, relief valve.
Spring, bypass valve.
Washer, bypass valve.
Lever, relief and bypass valve.
Lockwasher.
Nut, %-inch.
Water tube, outlet, port.
Gasket, cylinder head.
Cylinder head, port.
Nut.
Relief-valve lever and shaft.
Key.
Screw.
Lockwasher.
Bracket, relief valve.
Lever, relief valve.
Spring, relief valve.
Bushing, relief valve.
Lever, relief and bypass valve.
Lockwasher.
Nut, %-inch.
Rod, bypass valve to relief valve.
Locknut, throttle-adjusting screw.
Locknut, throttle-adjusting screw.
Ball joint, bypass to relief valve.
141
JASSEM
Figure 141. Lower unit assembly.
142
COMPLETE
WITH 4
9-
10.
12'
13
14
15
16
40 /36
/ |37
—[ass em
32
33
34
tl
7
4 \
17
\ 20
ISA I
19\U
^47
©< / z'50
\ 42
' 43
44
51
'"^'52
" ,53
58
—60
—61
—62
—64
1166 —65
67
L 68
69
^70
22-
23-
24'
25-
271_
28|
26/
29
30^
3r
21J
r
8-
39
/59,
No. Part No.
Key to figure l^l.
Nomenclature
1 17-95 Ferrule—driveshaft-casing water tube.
2 17-22 Thrust washer—swivel bracket.
3 22-78 Swivel bracket.
4 Cap—swivel bracket, part of 22-78.
5 21-601 Screw—swivel bracket—steering handle to cylinder, ik-inch-18
by P/a-inch.
6 7-31 Screw—swivel bracket, fg-inch-18 by lU-inch.
7 7-227 Lockwasher—muffler cover, cut-out plate and steering handle,
crankcase head to crankcase relief-valve bracket screw and
carburetor to crankcase, swivel-bracket screw, and driveshaft
casing to pinion casing, H-inch.
8 17-14 Bushing—swivel bracket.
9 22-40 Driveshaft.
, 10 375,321 Driveshaft casing and water tube.
■* ' 11 21-161 Water tube—driveshaft casing.
12 300,818 Water tube—driveshaft casing.
13 375,323 Water-tube assembly—inlet—driveshaft basing.
14 300,829 Gasket—drive-shaft-casing water tube.
15 300,831 Screw—gland—driveshaft-casing elbow.
16 17-138 Elbow—water tube.
17 21-475 Nut—driveshaft casing to pinion-shaft casing, A-inch-24.
18 7-227 Lockwasher, Ji-inch.
19 21-65 Gasket—pinion-shaft casing to driveshaft casing.
20 21-68 Stud—pinion-shaft casing to driveshaft casing.
21 21-59 Dowel pin—gearcase to pinion casing.
22 23-58 Gasket—gearcase to pinion-shaft casing.
23 23-283 Cap—propeller-shaft bearing.
24 23-282 Cork packing—propeller-shaft bearing.
25 30-139 Propeller shaft.
26 23-284 Bearing—propeller shaft—propeller end.
27 21-64 Inspection plug—gearcase.
28 21-121 Washer—inspection plug, tf-inch.
• 29 21-63 Plugs—driveshaft and pinion-shaft casings.
30 23-172 Key—bevel gear—No. 11.
31 23-43 Gear—bevel—propeller shaft.
32 22-165 Tilting shaft.
33 21-448 Thrust washer—swivel bracket to stern bracket.
34 21-344 Nut—tilting shaft.
35 21-46 Pin—clampscrew handle.
36 21-349 Handle—stern-bracket clamp screw.
37 22-139 Clampscrew and handle assembly—stern bracket.
38 21-92 Clampscrew only—stern bracket.
39 375,324 Thrust-socket assembly.
40 7-88 Swivel plate—stern-bracket clampscrew.
41 22-65 Stern bracket with quadrants only.
42 22-375,003 Thrust-socket bolt.
43 7-104 Washer—thrust-socket bolt.
44 7-105 Nut—thrust-socket bolt, i9b -inch-12.
45 21-62 Thrust washer—pinion shaft.
46 19-54 Nut—pinion-shaft to driveshaft-casing stud, tb -inch-20.
47 5-58 Lock washer—driveshaft casing to pinion-shaft-casing stud, Clinch.
48 21-63 Plug—driveshaft casing.
49 21-122 Washer—driveshaft casing and pinion shaft casing plug, ti-inch.
50 23-57 Stud—gearcase to driveshaft casing.
51 23-46 Pinion shaft.
52 23-77 Pinion-shaft casing less bearing. •
53 21-63 Plug—pinion-shaft casing.
54 24-52 Ball .bearing—pinion shaft.
55 23-42 Gear—pinion.
56 19-161 Nut—pinion and propeller shaft, %-inch-20.
57 21-592 Washer—pinion-shaft nut tf-inch.
58 21-120 Lockwasher—pinion and propeller-shaft nut.
59 29-300,316 Ball-thrust bearing—propeller shaft.
143
2 COMPLETE ASSEMBLY
ASSEMBLY
ASSEMBLY
COMPLETE
ASSEMBLY _
LESS PROPELLER
Part No.
29-300,359
29-300.352
21-55
21-51
29-300,354
29-300,353
19-161
19-95
21-120
21-592
29-300.315
Key to figure 141—Continued.
N omenclature
Gasket—gearcase • cap.
Gearcase cap.
Washer—gearcase-head bolt.
Bolt—gearcase head.
Locknut—bearing.
Retainer, propeller-thrust bearing.
Nut—pinion and propeller shaft, %-inch-20.
Washer—plain—propeller shaft, Vi-inch.
Lockwasher—pinion and propeller-shaft nut
Washer—pinion-shaft nut, 8i-inch.
Gearcase only—less bearing.
Figure 142. Housing group of lower-unit parts.
144
26 —
-32
-33
-34
— 35
31—0
-27
U- 28
1
30
29-
25
20
21
22-
1
3^
4
5 -
9 —
10 —
14 / /
15 /
16
1'7 f
18
19
j
No.
1
Part No.
17-14
2 375,321
3 19-54
4 5-58
5 23-57
6 23-61
7 21-122
8 21-63
9 23-77
10 21-63
11 24-135
12 24-207
13 21-51
14 21-55
15 29-300.352
16 29-300.359
17 29-300,354
18 29-300,353
19 29-300.316
20 7-261
21 17-139
22 300,835
23 17-138
24 375,323
25 300,818
26 300,829
27 300.831
28 17-138
29 21-161
30 300,827
31 17-95
32 21-65
33 21-475
34 7-227
35 21-68
36 24-52
37 23-58
38 21-59
39 21—64
40 21-121
41 29-300,315
42 23-284
43 23-282
44 23-283
45 23-126
46 21-63
Key to figure lift-
N omenclature
Bushing, swivel bracket.
Driveshaft casing and water-tube assembly.
Nut, pinion shaft casing to driveshaft casing.
Lockwasher.
Stud.
Bearing, pinion-shaft casing, upper.
Washer.
Plug.
Pinion-shaft casing.
Plug.
Gearcase.
Gearcase assembly, housings only.
Bolt, gearcase head.
Washer.
Gearcase cap.
Gasket, gearcase cap.
Locknut, bearing.
Retainer, propeller-thrust bearing.
Ball thrust bearing.
Gland, water tube.
Nut, water tube.
Water pipe, muffler.
Elbow, water-tube.
Water-tube assembly.
Water tube, driveshaft casing.
Gasket, driveshaft casing water tube.
Screw, gland.
Elbow, water tube.
Water tube, driveshaft casing.
Spring, water-pipe.
Ferrule, driveshaft casing water tube.
Gasket.
Nut.
Lockwasher.
Stud.
Ball bearing, pinion-shaft.
Gasket.
Dowel pin.
Inspection plug, gearcase.
Washer, inspection-plug.
Gear case only, less bearing.
Bearing, propeller-shaft.
Cork packing.
Cap propeller shaft bearing packing.
Propeller, 12 by 10.
Plug.
145
Figure 143. Gear shaft and bracket group of lower-unit parts.
146
' 10-
9 ASSEMBLY- U-
12-
13
3
2
-5
<
-6
— 7
-4
17
— 18
14 ASSEMBLY
-19 —
-20 15-
23
26 8^M
/© 29
27 © /
I? V \ \ 25 y 30 \
z32
33
34
—'8 ASSEMBLY
No.
12
3
4567
8
9
Part No.
22-165
21-448
17-22
21-344
21-601
7-227
7-31
22-78
22-139
,003
10 21-349
11 21-46
12 21-92
13 7-88
14 22-65
15 22-375,(
16 7-104
17 7-105
18 375.324
19 22-40
20 21-62
21 ' 23-46
22 23-42
23 21-120
24 19-161
25 21-592
26 19-161
27 19-95
28 21-120
29 23-43
30 23-172
31 30-139
32 19-102
33 19-84
34 23-53
Key to figure 143.
Nomenclature
Tilting shaft.
Thrust washer.
Thrust washer, swivel bracket.
Nut, tilting shaft.
Screw, swivel bracket.
Lockwasher, swivel-bracket screw.
Screw, swivel-bracket.
Swivel bracket.
Clamp screw and handle assembly.
Handle, stern bracket clamp screw.
Pin, clamp screw handle.
Clamp screw only, stern bracket.
Swivel plate.
Stem bracket with quadrants only.
Bolt, thrust socket.
Washer, thrust-socket bolt.
Nut, thrust-socket bolt.
Thrust-socket assembly.
Driveshaft.
Thrust washer, pinion-shaft.
Pinion shaft.
Gear, pinion.
Lockwasher.
Nut, pinion and propeller-shaft.
Washer, pinion-shaft nut.
Nut, pinion and propeller-shaft.
Washer, propeller-shaft.
Lock washer.
Gear, bevel, propeller-shaft.
Key, bevel gear No. 11.
Propeller shaft.
Drive pin, propeller.
Cotterpin, propeller-nut.
Nut, propeller. ■
147
148
11-
12~
13i
14g
15|
161
8x
9
10 \
. 1
2
3
4
5
-28
-29
'30
— 6
-7
17 z W
CONDENSER!
un de rn eat h ’
isyy// //
19 y/ I
2° y
21-/
22-//
23^
24 -J
25-/
26-1
27 31"
32 -
33
34-
35
36-
Figure 144- Magneto armature plate assembly.
149
Key to figure 144.
No. Part No. Nomenclature
1 72-852 Coil assembly, less heels.
2 72-856 Heel assembly, left-hand.
3 72-858 Armature plate and clampscrew.
4 5-136 Lockwasher, armature-plate clampscrew.
5 71-1235 Screw for armature-plate clamp No. 12.
6 71-1420 Grommet for ignition lead.
7 72-375,098 High-tension leads.
8 71-939 Screw for mounting coil to plate No. 10.
9 71-940 Screw for heels No. 10.
10 72-855 Heel assembly, right-hand.
11 71-471 Nut for screw No. 71-45 and contact screw.
12 71-45 Screw, spring mounting.
13 71-1048 Washer for breaker post.
14 71-1146 Contact point and screw.
15 71-1240 Terminal, for breaker.
16 71-66 Insulation washer for contact screw.
17 72-864 Condenser complete.
18 71-1274 Locknut for contact screw.
19 71-471 Nut.
20 71-1148 Insulation bushing.
21 71-49 Washer for contact screw.
22 71-31 Screw for mounting breaker No. 10.
23 71-610 Washer for breaker mounting screw.
24 71-1147 Breaker plate.
25 72-736 Breaker arm and spring assembly.
26 71-1052 Clip spring for breaker post.
27 71-1128 Breaker post.
28 71-1268 Clip for cut-out lead armor.
29 1-20 Screw for condenser mounting.
30 3-27 Lockwasher.
31 71-1139 Timer-lever casting.
32 3-27 Lockwasher.
33 5-114 Screw, timing lever and high-tension lead mounting.
34 71-1244 Plug for cut-out lead.
35 72-883 Cut-out lead assembly.
36 71-1249 Armor for cut-out lead.
 / t ------- 23
\ 12—MjZ-----24 -- _ \ ASSEM oe ^-*^**>. \ >k
- A------- 27 ASSEMBLY X<
y Zj 1° Ww A / j JS^ ■ © /
Y^fo ° JU" "’ IIIIjIUIj ii j; 11 * in 1 ° v/z/Zy
t------------------- 401 34-------------- , --------------- 41
29-------------- 1 / 35 ASSEAS \ / ____42
30 --------I ___ «—i/ 36 » J \ / @) ,_______ 43
31------------'^l^uiuiLiiiiiiiitiiiiiiiiiiinPFl 37//---------44
32----------- 3g-----------------------------------------------------------------// «--|©@o^§h------- 45 ' 50 ASSEMBLY
33--------------------------------------- ^'° 39-------------Z ' 'Z"-'--------- 46
xX^---47 R 60 ASSEMBLY J
ARMATURE PLATE COMPLETE ----------49> X■
54 . ■'
Cc, pV 56oh
51---------------57
53 It MAGNETO COMPLETE 61 . , . _ ,
Figure 145. Magneto parts.
Key to figure 14-5.
No. Part No. Nomenclature
1 21-45 Screw, flywheel cover plate.
2 21-435 Cover plate, flywheel.
3 72-861 Dome, assembly.
4 71-1,054 Drive screw for mounting earn No. 4.
5 71-1,126 Cam.
6 16-19 Starting rope.
7 5-114 Screw, timing lever and high-tension lead mounting.
8 3-27 Lockwasher.
9 71—1,139 Timing-lever casting.
10 71-1,235 Screw for armature-plate clamp No. 12.
11 5-136 Lockwasher, armature-plate clamp screw.
12 72-858 Armature plate and clamp screw.
13 71-1,261 Clip for cut-out lead.
14 3-27 Lockwasher.
15 1-20 Screw for condenser mounting.
16 1-20 Screw for condenser mounting.
17 3-27 Lockwasher.
18 71-1,268 Clip for cut-out lead armor.
19 71-1.249 Armor for cut-out lead.
20 71-1,244 Plug for cut-out lead.
21 72-883 Cut-out lead assembly.
22 71-1,369 Felt pad for condenser pocket.
23 1-20 Screw.
24 3-27 Lockwasher.
25 72-864 Condenser complete.
26 71-60 Terminal for cut-out lead.
27 72-375.098 High-tension leads.
28 71-1,420 Grommet for ignition lead.
29 72-852 Coil assembly, less heels.
30 71-939 Screw for mounting coil to plate No. 10.
31 72-856 Heel assembly, left hand.
32 71-940 Screw for heels No. 10.
33 72-855 Heel assembly, right-hand.
34 71-1,128 Breaker post.
35 72-736 Breaker arm and spring assembly.
36 71-1,048 Washer for breaker post.
37 71-1,052 Clip spring for breaker post.
38 71-45 Screw, spring mounting.
39 71-471 Nut for screw No. 71-45 and contact screw.
40 71-1.147 Breaker plate.
41 71-31 Screw, mounting breaker No. 10.
42 71-610 Washer for breaker mounting screw.
43 71-49 Washer for contact screw.
44 71-471 Nut.
45 71-1,274 Locknut for contact screw.
46 71-1,148 Insulation bushing.
47 71-66 Insulation washer for contact screw.
48 71-1.240 Terminal, for breaker.
49 71-1,146 Contact point and screw.
50 72-781 Breaker plate and point assembly.
51 71-1,223 Quadrant.
52 3-28 Lockwasher, quadrant screw.
53 71-765 Screw for quadrant, magneto.
54 21-397 Stud, ratchet lever.
55 21-178 Spring, ratchet lever.
56 21-163 Cotter pin, ratchet-lever stud.
57 21-398 Nut, ratchet-lever stud.
58 22-145 Ratchet lever for armature plate
59 21-177 Pin, ratchet lever.
60 72-859 Armature plate complete.
61 72-860 Magneto complete.
151
i6-c: CT>18
15\ z
9. 17^ 21
5 t \“ ,^9 23
/7 ° f ® 0> S3J1 C j -o J”
’ j/ ^Z 'V oA 25
§ 12<^ n\ 26
|JJN T2?
•z a \0 M / 30 29
14 30 -
7. 31 x>
“ //% A i'33 35 / \ 1 39 / / , 4A2~ / (o’ <>f —W■, ,— /
!<« i]
A7------ ------ ^=5 °<''^-50
48---------------►© ^^-51
o i® o °°€-\8y.< . ®g ® =? CA^ S* VACTURI \ \ Ur”wZ J \ s?
[>===. J 53
56// 58——'© ^S7
6CK. '•■o f^^^-59
J ' / n^?62 6r 63
eO =«
\y6
Figure 1.^6. Carburetor parts.
Key to figure l^G.
No. Part No. Nomenclature
1 35-101 Retainer screw, strainer housing.
2 21-163 Cotter pin, r«- by %-inch.
3 35-103 Gasket, strainer screw.
4 35-99 Strainer housing.
5 35-100 Strainer-screen assembly.
6 35-102 Gasket, strainer.
7 13-136 Bushing, straight connection to carburetor.
8 13-365 Straight connection.
9 35-97 Float.
10 3-34 Screw, float clip No. 4.
11 35-110 Float clip.
152
Key to figure 1$—-Continued.
No. Part No. Nomenclature
12 29-300,802 Gasket, Venturi tube.
13 29-300,794 Venturi tube.
14 29-300,808 Expansion plug.
15 29-300,800 Float valve.
16 71-45 Screw, throttle plate.
17 29-300,791 Shaft, throttle.
18 29-300,805 Plate, throttle.
19 29-196 Carburetor body.
20 29-300,803 Thrust washer, choke.
21 21-553 Straight connection, gas line to carburetor.
22 23-194 Gasket, fuel-passage screw.
23 23-232 Screw, fuel-passage.
24 35-104 Plug, fuel-passage.
25 35-108 Gasket, fuel-passage plug.
26 13-364 Elbow, carburetor drain.
27 29-300,802 Gasket, venturi tube.
28 29-300,794 Venturi tube.
29 29-300,808 Expansion plug.
30 29-300,795 Plate assembly, choke.
31 29-300,799 Shaft, choke.
32 29-300.798 Pivot plug, choke lever.
33 29-300,804 Spring, choke lever.
34 29-300,793 Gasket, cover.
35 13-304 Gland.
36 13-305 Nut.
37 29-300,783 Drainpipe, air passage.
38 13-365 Straight connection.
39 13-304 Gland.
40 13-305 Nut.
41 29-300.782 Drainpipe intake passage.
42 21-457 Clamp.
43 13-100 Screw, No. 10.
44 71-1102 Nut, No. 10.
45 29-300,810 Screw, throttle-lever clamp.
46 71-915 Lockwasher, lever clampscrew No. 10.
47 29-300.790 Lever throttle.
48 35-107 Thrust washer.
49 29-300,796 Needle valve, slow-speed.
50 15-249 Screw, swivel nut No. 10.
51 71-1,308 Swivel nut, control cable.
52 21-491 Screw, carburetor control cable clip.
53 21-484 Clamp, carburetor control cable.
54 29-300,811 Screw, throttle-adjustment.
55 85-64 Locknut, throttle-adjustment screw.
56 29-300,797 Needle valve, high-speed.
57 29-300,789 Cover, carburetor.
58 29-300,801 Gasket, choke-lever.
59 29-300,792 Lever, choke.
60 13-52 Lockwasher, cover-screw.
61 35-114 Screw, cover.
62 35-116 Lockwasher, choke-lever screw.
63 29-300.809 Screw, choke-lever.
64 29-170 Gasket, carburetor-panel.
65 29-167 Panel, carburetor.
66 21-283 Screw, carburetor panel No. 10.
67 3-28 Lockwasher, panel screw.
153
Figure 147. Carburetor parts.
4 9
50
51
52
" 53
54
55
5 6
4 0
X 4412
43
44
33
3 4
35
3 6 Z
3 7
3 8 '
39
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2 7 31
28 \ 32
2 9 \ n
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4 7 1
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24
25
in ON co O»
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154
i "
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or
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\HIG H SPEED,
LEAN
1
RICH
RICH
} lo w \ /s pe e d ,
le an '5
No. Part No.
1 29-300,800
2 29-300,811
3 85-64
4 29-300,790
5 29-300,810
6 71-915
7 35-107
8 71-1,308
9 15-249
10 29-300,796
11 21-484
12 21-491
13 29-300,789
14 29-300,793
15 35-114
16 13-52
17 29-300,797
18 29-300,792
19 29-300,801
20 29-300,809
21 35-116
22 29-167
23 29-170
24 21-283
25 3-28
26 29-162
27 25-28
28 7-227
29 7-56
30 29-300,805
31 29-300,791
32 71-45
33 35-97
34 35-110
35 3-34
36 29-196
37 29-300,794
38 29-300,802
39 29-300,808
40 29-300,795
41 29-300.799
42 29-300.798
43 29-300,804
44 29-300,803
45 29-232
46 23-194
47 35-104
48 35-108
49 35-99
50 35-100
51 35-101
52 35-102
53 35-103
54 21-163
55 13-136
56 21-553
A- 590366-44
Key to figure lift.
Nomenclature
Float valve.
Screw, throttle-adjustment.
Locknut, throttle-adjustment screw.
Lever, throttle.
Screw, throttle-lever clamp.
Lockwasher, lever clampscrew No. 10.
Thrust washer.
Swivel nut, control cable.
Screw, swivel nut No. 10.
Needle valve, slow-speed.
Clamp, carburetor control cable.
Screw, carburetor control cable clip.
Cover, carburetor.
Gasket, cover.
Screw, cover.
Lockwasher, cover-screw.
Needle valve, high-speed.
Lever, choke.
Gasket, choke lever.
Screw, choke lever.
Lockwasher, choke-lever screw.
Panel, carburetor.
Gasket, carburetor panel.
Screw, carburetor panel No. 10.
Lockwasher, panel screw.
Gasket, carburetor to crankcase.
Stud, carburetor to crankcase.
Lockwasher, carburetor to crankcase stud.
Nut, carburetor to crankcase stud.
Plate, throttle.
Shaft, throttle.
Screw, throttle plate.
Float.
Float clip.
Screw, float clip No. 4.
Carburetor body.
Venturi tube.
Gasket, Venturi tube.
Expansion plug.
Plate assembly, choke.
Shaft, choke.
Pivot plug, choke lever.
Spring, choke lever.
Thrust washer, choke.
Screw, fuel-passage.
Gasket, fuel-passage screw.
Plug, fuel-passage.
Gasket, fuel-passage plug.
Strainer housing.
Strainer-screen assembly.
Retaining screw, strainer-housing.
Gasket, strainer.
Gasket, strainer-screw.
Cotter pin, t 1®- by %-inch.
Bushing, straight connection to carburetor.
Straight connection, gas line to carburetor.
155


UNT LIBRARIES BENTON TX 76203
1001895227