    [Driver's Manual, United States Army]
    [From the U.S. Government Publishing Office, www.gpo.gov]

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    DIAMOND SIGNS MEAN REDUCE SPEED
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    OCTAGONAL SIGNS	ROUND SIGNS
    MEAN STOP	MEAN RAILROAD CROSSINGS
    driver’s manual
    47
    44.	CROSSING RAILr'oaD TRACKS.—Locomotives have little respect for your right-of-way. More than three thousand motor vehicles were wrecked by locomotives in a single year. And the locomotive is likely to do a thorough job on you as well as your vehicle.
    To avoid these severe accidents, always STOP. LOOK, AND LISTEN at a railroad crossing not protected by a watchman or an automatic signal.
    But do not rely too much on gates, crossing watchmen, or signals. It’s your life. Take care of it yourself.
    Mait until the vehicle ahead has cleared the track by the full length of your vehicle before you drive on the track. Otherwise, if the vehicle ahead should stop or stall, you may find yourself on the tracks, unable to move, and out of luck.
    When you have been waiting for a train to pass, and it has finally done so, be sure that there is not another train coming on another track before you try to cross.
    45.	SPEED INCREASES DANGER IN FOUR WAYS.— One quarter of all fatal motor vehicle accidents in the United States involve excessive speed by one or more drivers. (See fig. 22.) High speed increases danger in four ways:
    fl. High speed makes it more difficult to stop in an emergency.
    b.	High speed makes-it harder to take a curve, or to change direction to avoid collision.
    c.	High speed causes vehicles to approach each other more rapidly, and gives both drivers less time to act.
    (1	. High speed makes the impact of collision more severe.
    Speed limits are intended to reduce these hazards.
    Army men have two sets of speed regulations: those imposed by military authority (including the maximum speeds prescribed for your vehicle and listed on the caution plate) ; and those imposed by civil law, with which the Army cooperates. You should therefore know the motor vehicle laws of the states
    DON’T CHARGE—IT’S NOT A TANK.
    48
    driver’s manual
    Figure 22.
    in which you operate, and obey the speed limits of those states, as well as the speed limits of the Army. Thus you will avoid penalties as well as accidents.
    Slow down at night, or on bad or slippery roads, at intersections, at curves, in fog, in heavy traffic, and at any other time or place which speed makes more dangerous.
    46. FOLLOWING OTHER VEHICLES.—The vehicle ahead of you may have better brakes than yours. The driver may not signal. To avoid the danger of ramming him, keep a safe distance behind. A good way of estimating this is the general rule suggested for driving in column (see par. 60).
    47. PASSING STANDING VEHICLES.—When you pass a parked vehicle, there are two dangers to watch for. First, the vehicle obstructs your vision. A pedestrian, particularly a child,
    BE SMART—BE CAREFUL.
    THE LOWER THE SPEED THE LESS THE CRASH.
    l[ AT40MP.H.
    WHEN A SPEEDING VEHICLE CRASHES, IT’S LIKE FALLING OFF A ROOF.
    at20m.ph.
    at60m.p.h.
    driver’s manual
    49
    may step from behind it directly into your path. Second, it may suddenly pull from the curb into your path with insufficient warning.
    There isn’t much you can do about these dangers except to keep alert, so be sure to do that. Expect a standing vehicle to pull out suddenly. Expect a child to run or a pedestrian to walk from behind parked vehicles. Drive slowly enough that if these things happen, you can stop in time.
    48.	SCHOOL BUSSES.—When a school bus stops, you too should always come to a full stop. On a narrow (two-lane) road, stop even though the bus is headed in the opposite direction. Do not move on again until (1) the school bus moves on, or (2) you get a signal to continue from the school bus driver or police. If you pass a standing bus, proceed very slowly until you have cleared it. Don’t kill a child.
    49.	HORN BLOWING.—When you hear a “horn-tooting” driver, you can be pretty sure that he is an inexperienced driver. Good drivers don’t use their horns for driving—they use their brakes. A sudden blast of your horn may startle another person and make him lose his head so that he does the wrong thing; you thereby cause an accident. Don’t try to scare people out of your way with your horn. Use your horn only when you need it for a warning.
    50.	HOLD THAT WHEEL.—Even on a good straight road you may strike a stone or a break in the pavement that suddenly deflects your front wheels, so hold that steering wheel with a firm but relaxed grip. Keep it in your control. USE both hands.
    51.	CROSSWALKS.—Keep clear of crosswalks when you halt at an intersection, so that you do not obstruct pedestrians’ right-of-way. (See fig. 23.) Blocking their way is chiseling— and worse, because they may be injured by vehicles they cannot see if they have to dart around your vehicle.
    GET THE SAFETY HABIT.
    50
    driver’s manual
    52. FIBE HYDRANTS.—Firemen must act quickly to prevent a blaze from getting out of control. So don't delay them. Park at least 15 feet away from the nearest tire plug.
    Section III
    DRIVING IN A MOTOR MARCH COLUMN
    53. CONTROL BY THE COLUMN COMMANDER.—When you are driving in a march column, your column commander controls your speed, the distance between vehicles, routes, traffic precautions and other details, with the assistance of his officers and noncommissioned officers.
    54. YOUR RESPONSIBILITY IN A MARCH COLUMN.— Even though you are driving in a military march column, you, the driver, are still responsible for the safe operation of your own vehicle. The fact that you are part of a column does not
    THE GEAR THAT TAKES YOU UP EASILY
    DON'T FORCE PEDESTRIANS INTO UNSAFE PLACES
    Figure 23.—Keep crossings clear.
    STOP LIKE THIS
    NOT LIKE THIS
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    51
    lessen the need for you to be alert and careful. When driving a single vehicle, you control your own speed and direction. In a inarch column, you are expected to maintain your place and still avoid accidents. Your responsibilities are not lessened— they are increased.
    55.	THE COLUMN COMMANDER WANTS SAFE OPERATION.—The column commander expects you to do everything that is necessary for the safety of your vehicle and its passengers or cargo. He wants you to maintain your position in column, but he expects you to realize that a slight delay is better than a crash and an indefinitely long delay.
    Normally the orders of the column commander are designed to help you maintain your place safely in column, avoiding accidents, damage, and bodily injuries. Only when the military situation makes it imperative, will the column commander require you to assume risks.
    56.	OBSERVE GENERAL SAFETY PRECAUTIONS.— Most safety precautions apply equally well whether you are driving in a march column or’not. While in column, the speeds, distances, and details may be regulated by a higher authority. But other responsibilities remain yours as a driver. For example, you still carry out your preventive maintenance schedules, you still take care to avoid sudden stops, and, perhaps more important than ever, you still give the proper signals.
    The best way to avoid accidents in column is to observe carefully every safety precaution which does not conflict with the orders of the column commander.
    You will be able to drive more safely in column if you understand the general precautions usually taken, as well as your own responsibilities. Paragraphs 57 to 61, inclusive, will give you an idea of some important points in safe march column operations.
    57.	RIGHT-OF-WAY OF A SMALL MOTOR MARCH COLUMN.—Except in special military necessity, each vehicle of
    WILL TAKE YOU DOWN SAFELY.
    52
    driver’s manual
    a small motor march column extends the same right-of-way as individual vehicles, unless the column is accompanied by a police escort to block off traffic.
    58.	RIGHT-OF-WAY OF A LARGE MOTOR MARCH COLUMN.—Large march columns running on a march order schedule might be frequently split and their schedule disrupted if they observed all the customary practices as to right-of-way, traffic signal lights, etc. To keep intact and on time, a large motor column must proceed steadily, without unscheduled interruptions.
    a. Area control.—One of the best ways of preventing intersection collisions with motor columns lies in area control. Under this plan the route and time schedule is furnished to civil or military police authorities in a given area, who arrange to divert or block off cross traffic. This may be done from a distance of several blocks off the motor march route if the convoy is large. It may otherwise be done by stationing police at intersections or by arranging for the column to have green traffic lights throughout the area, or both. This is in addition to any accompanying police escorts. The area control police do not accompany the column, but remain at their posts like ordinary civil traffic police.
    Obviously this method is workable only in areas where sufficient police, either civil or military, are available.
    &. Accompanying police.—Civil or military police on motorcycles or in small cars, should precede a motor column far enough to clear the road and halt all cross traffic in time to let the head of the column pass safely. One or more police should remain at each intersection until tlM£last vehicle in the convoy has cleared; then they pass at a reasonable-speed to the column head, ready to guard the next ‘cT'oss road.
    c.	Guides (or route markers) and guards, may be dropped from a vehicle which precedes the column. Rear vehicles pick up these guides or guards, and at the first appropriate halt
    ACCIDENTS GO UP WHEN THE SUN GOES DOWN.
    driver’s manual	53
    proceed to the head of the column so that the men may be dropped off again. The vehicles at the head of the column, when empty, halt until the column has passed, so that they can pick the men up. In small convoys, these men rejoin their proper vehicles by foot at the first halt that allows them time to transfer.
    d.	Closing up in cities.—In cities and elsewhere in heavy traffic where speed is reduced, it is safe for vehicles to run closer together, presenting to cross traffic an almost solid column. Under such conditions it is almost impossible for a civilian motorist not to realize that a military motor column is crossing an intersection. This materially reduces the danger of collisions. However, if the close distances are not maintained, a civilian may get the impression that the column has passed, when it is only interrupted. He may then attempt to cross, and crash into the vehicle which lagged. Hence, when close distance is adopted as a safety precaution, the prescribed distances must be rigidly maintained.
    Close distances are not safe when the column runs at higher speeds, • because sudden slowing or stopping may cause the vehicles to pile up.
    e.	When no orders have been issued as to right-of-way.— In a motor march column, in the absence of orders to the contrary from the column commander, you must—
    (1) Obey all local, State, or military traffic regulations, traffic signs, and signals.
    (2) Drive through a signal-light-controlled intersection only under the following conditions:
    (a) When light -is .green.
    (&) When light is,joshing or fixed yellow.
    (c) When a guard (or civil or military police), who is controlling or regulating traffic at the intersection, sighals all clear.
    (d) When light is not operating.
    BE CAREFUL AFTER DARK.
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    driver’s manual
    (3) At all times operate at such a speed and in such a manner that you have proper control over your vehicle.
    f. Railroad crossings.—Police or military guards should be stationed at all railroad crossings while a motor column is passing over the tracks. Their duty is to halt the column in plenty of time if a train is approaching.
    But these precautions do not relieve you, as a driver, of the responsibility for making sure that all is clear before you cross railroad tracks.
    59.	FASTER-MOVING VEHICLES.—When an “outside” vehicle not under control of the column commander breaks into the column, it may lag behind the vehicle it is following and cause vehicles in the column to lose distance. This will produce the undesirable “accordion” effect in which the length and spacing of the column is constantly changing. It increases danger of accident.
    When the highway is wide enough and the police escort is sufficient, this danger may be prevented by keeping the column in the right lane, and compelling all other vehicles to keep out of it.
    However, in military operations there are usually many military vehicles, such as staff officers’ cars or motorcycles, which must proceed in the same direction as the convoy but at greater speed. Frequently there are also civilian vehicles whose drivers are in a hurry. If there are not enough lanes and enough police to keep such vehicles in a different column, you as a driver should permit all such overtaking vehicles to pass freely. Keep well to the right. Give them plenty of room to pass you and to fall in ahead of you in the column if necessary. An overtaking vehicle which cannot get back in column, or is delayed in getting back, may side-swipe you or collide head-on with a vehicle coming in the opposite direction.
    60.	SAFE DISTANCES IN COLUMN are determined by road and weather conditions, and by the need for space enough to
    NEVER OVERDRIVE YOUR LIGHTS AT NIGHT.
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    55
    stop without rear-end collisions, and to let faster-moving vehicles pull into the column after passing.
    If you have no other orders you will find that it is a good general rule to keep, as nearly as you can,- a distance in yards which is twice the rate of speed at which you are driving. If you are running at 25 miles per hour, leave 50 yards’ distance between your vehicle and the one just ahead. For a 30-mile speed allow 60 yards; for 35 miles, 70 yards, etc. Remember this is yards, not feet.
    But do you know what 50 or 60 or 70 yards looks like? To avoid accidents you must not only know what distances are prescribed, but also be able to judge these distances.
    You can accomplish this more easily if you will practice estimating distance now and then. Take some known distance, like the length of a truck or the distance between telegraph poles, and observe carefully how that distance looks to you. Try this in different lights, day. night, dusk, etc., and you will soon be a good estimator of distance. This ability helps in many ways in the Army.
    61.	SIGNALS recommended for motor march use are—
    ATTENTION
    Extend arm full length above the head, palm to front, and move it a few inches slowly from side to side several times.
    START ENGINES
    Simulate cranking by describing circles in front of body with right arm. fist closed.
    READY TO START
    Face leader, and extend arm vertically, fingers extended and joined, palm toward the leader.
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    driver’s manual
    FORWARD MARCH
    Raise arm vertically, palm to front and lower it to horizontal position in direction of march.
    STOP ENGINES
    Cross arms in front of body at waist and move them sharply to sides. Repeat several times.
    DECREASE SPEED
    Extend left arm at side at an angle of 45 degrees below the horizontal.
    ASSEMBLE
    Extend arm vertically, palm front, fingers extended and joined, and move it to describe large horizontal circles slowly about the head.
    REPORT WHEN READY TO START
    Extend arm vertically, fingers extended and joined.
    INCREASE SPEED
    Carry closed fist to shoulder and thrust it upward several times to full extent of arm.
    MOUNT
    Extend arm horizontally at side, palm up, and wave it upward several times.'
    DISMOUNT
    Extend arm horizontally at side, palm down, and wave it downward.
    THE OTHER FELLOW ALWAYS HAS THE RIGHT OF AV AY.
    START ENGINES
    ATTENTION
    driver’s manual	57
    Figure 24.	Figure 25.
    FORWARD MARCH
    READY TO START
    Figure 26.	Figure 27.
    Figure 28.	Figure 29.
    DECREASE SPEED
    STOP ENGINES
    58	driver’s manual
    REPORT WHEN READY TO START
    ASSEMBLE
    Figure 30.	Figure 31.
    driver’s manual	59
    MOUNT
    INCREASE Al
    SPEED | 1
    Figure 32.	Figure 33.
    TURN AROUND
    SIMULTANEOUSLY
    DISMOUNT
    Figure 34.	Figure 35.
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    driver’s manual
    TURN AROUND SIMULTANEOUSLY
    Extend both arms horizontally toward drivers and describe small vertical circles, then signal “Forward March” in the desired new direction.
    When given from the cab of a vehicle, the signal to turn around simultaneously is this: Extend arm downward at a 45-degree angle, palm toward the front, and describe small circles with the arm. See figure 36.
    The following signals are uniform, whether given from the cab or from the ground :
    PASS AND KEEP GOING : Extend left arm horizontally at side and move hand to describe small circles toward the front. See figure 37.
    CLOSE UP: Extend left arm horizontally at side, palm toward the front, and describe a 2-foot circle. See figure 38.
    Ol’EN UP: Extend left arm horizontally at side, palm toward the front, and describe a 90-degree arc downward several times. See figure 39.
    IMMEDIATE DANGER (AIR OR MECHANIZED ATTACK) : Use three long blasts of a whistle, vehicle horn, siren, or klaxon, repeated several times; or three equally spaced shots with rifle, carbine, or pistol; or three short bursts of fire from machine or submachine gun. In daylight, point in the direction of the impending danger; at night, supplement the alarm by voice warning to indicate the direction of danger.
    Whenever a march column is halted on a curve, on the downgrade of a hill, or wherever some drivers cannot see the signals, signals may be relayed along the column or transmitted by messengers to all concerned.
    In addition to these, you should also learn all signals authorized in the manuals of your arm of service. Any such signals not in conflict with the above, may be adapted for use in motor marches.
    STOP, LOOK. AND LISTEN.
    TURN AROUND SIMULTANEOUSLY
    PASS AND KEEP GOING
    driver’s manual	61
    Figure 36.	Figure 37.
    Figure 38.	Figure 39.
    455250°—42----5
    OPEN UP
    CLOSE UP
    Chapter 4
    DIFFICULT TERRAIN: BAD ROADS AND CROSS COUNTRY DRIVING
    62.	GENERAL.—Almost all drivers sometimes have to use bad roads or drive on snow and ice. But you, as a soldier-driver, must expect that you will have to drive on bad roads much more often than a civilian and drive cross country on no roads at all.
    The chief aids to driving on difficult terrain are low gears which give your vehicle great pulling ability, front axle drive, traction devices, chains, winches, snatch blocks, and ropes.
    63.	FRONT-AXLE DRIVE.—Usually you will need the driving power of all axles to cross plowed fields, stretches of mud. deep snow, sand, or similar difficult terrain. Always engage the front-axle drive before the vehicle leaves hard surface road to go across difficult ground. If you let your vehicle become stuck while driving with the rear wheels only, it is usually too late to engage the front axle drive and you may be unable to pull out without aid.
    64.	CHAINS OR TRACTION DEVICES as supplied for your vehicle should always be with it. Keep them clean, oiled and free from rust, and properly adjusted, ready for immediate use whenever you need them.
    Always install your chains or traction device before you enter the ground on which you think you will need them. But don’t put them on too soon or keep them on when the need has passed. Using them without reason wears them and may also damage roads.
    a.	Chains-—You will find chains helpful in mud, sand, snow, 62
    DON'T ARGUE WITH A TRAIN.
    driver’s manual
    63
    or slush. They have little, if any, value in preventing a sideslip on an icy, or hard and slippery road. They do little good when operating over ice which is so hard that they will not “bite” it.
    Here are some general rules for using chains:
    Install your chains right side out, that is, with the open ends of the cross links out. Inside out they will damage the tires because the insides of the cross links are flat and the outsides are sharp. Adjust your chains loose enough to creep but not loose enough to strike the body of the vehicle or be pulled off. Fairly loose adjustment will make the chains give better traction and will wear the tires less than a tight adjustment.
    When you lay the chains out on the ground before running the wheels on them, have the clasps toward the rear. Otherwise, they may loosen and come off.
    If you are installing chains on a vehicle with an all-wheel drive, you should put at least one chain on each wheel, single or dual, to prevent unnecessary strain on the driving mechanism.
    When you have only erne chain for a dual wheel, you should install it on the outside tire.
    b.	Traction devices, if you have them, are useful for giving your vehicle many of the cross-country abilities of a half-track tractor. Make sure that you know just how to install them.
    If you cannot tighten an individual-wheel traction device enough to prevent the wheel from slipping inside it, chain the device to the wheel.
    When you apply traction devices on a 6 x 6 truck, it is usually preferable to use an oval-band coupling around the middle and rear wheels rather than individual devices on each of those wheels. This makes your truck a half-track vehicle with exceptionally low ground pressure so it will not sink in easily.
    65.	WINCHES—USE THE WINCH PROPERLY.—a. Don’t abuse it.—It takes a lot of experience to understand completely the uses of the winch and the principles of rigging which are involved in its use. If you are not thoroughly familiar with
    DON’T KILL A CHILD.
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    driver’s manual
    Figure 40.—A front-mounted winch.
    winches, therefore, it is best for you to depend upon a senior for direction and supervision, except in emergency. A few fundamentals as to winches are given here. Consult the maintenance manual of your vehicle for the details of how to operate and maintain your particular winch.
    b. Look out for snapped cables.—When a strong steel cable is tightened it may break, flying back like a whip with force
    BE PATIENT AT A RAILROAD CROSSING
    OIL LEVEL PLUG /
    WORM HOUSING, OIL DRAIN PLUG
    SHEAR PIN
    UNIVERSAL JOINT
    WINCH PROPELLER
    SHAFT
    WORM GEAR'
    HOUSING ]
    WINCH DRUM
    WINCH CABLE
    SLIDING JAW CLUTCH HANDLE
    GEAR CASE OIL FILLE R PLU G
    TOW HOOK	;
    driver’s manual
    65
    enough to kill a man or to cost him his leg. Everybody should therefore stand clear before the winch cable is tightened.
    All newer front-mounted winches are provided with shear p'ns (fig. 40) as a precaution against overloading the winch or snapping the cable. The shear pin is located in the yoke of the universal joint that drives the winch worm-gear shaft. When the winch is overloaded, the shear pin is supposed to break instead of the cable. Never use makeshift pins of unknown strength to replace broken shear pins; if the pin is too strong, the cable may snap and injure somebody. Use only the manufacturer’s soft metal pins, made to fit the hole without forcing.
    Don’t depend on the shear pin for protection. Even with a shear pin. a kinked, frayed, damaged, or weak cable may snap.
    Older center-mounted winches have no shear pins. Handle them with great care. Remember that a broken cable whipping through rhe air can be deadly.
    c. Tips on winch operation.— (1) Always depress the clutch pedal of the vehicle (disengage the clutch) before changing gears in the winch power take-off. Figure 41 shows the positions of the power rake-off lever for different winch speeds of one make of truck. Always consult the winch and power take-off name plate in cab of your particular truck for the correct lever positions, as these positions vary with different makes of trucks. When the winch is not being used, lock the lever in neutral position with rhe hinged latch on the floor board.
    (2)	Do not operate the winch with an engine speed exceeding 1,000 rpm (about % throttle).
    (3)	Use the high speed of the winch for light loads and for reeling in the cable. Use the low speed for heavy loads. The winch can be stopped almost instantly by disengaging the vehicle clutch.
    (4)	Pay out the cable by disengaging rhe sliding-jaw clutch, controlled by a lever (fig. 40) and pulling out the cable by hand.
    NOT A PATIENT IN THE HOSPITAL.
    66
    DRIVER S MANUAL
    Figure 41.—Winch control lever in cab—consult winch and power takeoff name plate in your own vehicle for proper speed positions.
    Use the reverse gear only for easing the strain on the winch cable or for lowering a load downhill.
    (5) Never race the vehicle engine when winding the winch cable, especially when it has a light load or no load.
    RULES ARE FOR YOUR SAFETY
    TAKE-0
    HINGED LATCH ;
    GEAR SHIFT! LEVER

    DRIVER S MANUAL
    67
    d. Prevent cable abuse.—Never bend the wire cable at a sharp angle. In taking up slack, straighten out all kinks and twists. Do not tie knots in the cable except for emergency repair. Do not rig the cable around an angle or permit tractors or vehicles with metal tires to run over it. These forms of abuse flatten the cable, expose the manila hemp core, and permit water to enter, causing internal rust and weakening the cable.
    Do not wind the cable on the winch drum rapidly or without a load because it may kink.
    After using the winch, have one person, or preferably two, pull back on the cable while it is wound slowly and evenly on the drum. Your assistant stows the chain by passing it through the left tow hook and across the bumper and hooking it to the right tow hook. Turn the winch slowly until your assistant signals you that the chain is taut. Stop the winch immediately by depressing the clutch pedal. Then put the power take-off lever in neutral and lock it in place with the hinged latch.
    e. Prevent rust.—Keep the winch cable coated with engine crankcase oil, or a heavy viscous oil, to prevent rust.
    66. REDUCING STRAIN ON A WINCH RIG.—a. Anchor the vehicle.—When using the winch for a difficult pull, hold your vehicle in place by the brakes or wheel blocks, or anchor it to a tree ground anchor or “deadman,” usually by the pintle hook.
    b. Anchor the cable.—If there is any choice, select an achor (tree, pole, etc.) that requires a long winch cable and the least possible angle to pull. Attach the winch-cable chain low on the tree, pole, or stake to avoid breaking it off or uprooting it.
    c. Use snatch block.—When practicable, do not use your winch for pulling your own vehicle without passing the winch cable through a snatch block secured to the anchor, as shown in figure 42. This rig is much better than attaching the end of the cable directly to the anchor, as the double pull lessens the strain on the cable and eases the jerks. Cable used single for heavy loads is often frayed or broken or otherwise damaged.
    OBSERVE THEM.
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    driver’s manual
    Figure 42.—Rig without spreader bar.
    d.	Pull from front.—The winch cable, when under strain, should extend directly to the front, although a slight angular pull to the side is permissible.
    If the cable pulls downward at an angle of more than 20° below the level of the frame of the winch-equipped truck, the front axle and tires may be overloaded.
    e.	Attaching winch rope.—In attaching the winch rope to a vehicle, pass it through one tow hook and then across the front of the vehicle to the other tow hook, as shown in figure 42.
    f.	Avoid jerks.—Always take up load strains gradually. Jerking may damage the cable, winch, vehicle, and load.
    67. MUD AND SAND.—Practically every vehicle used by the Army has enough power in lowest gear to pull out of mud or sand, provided it gets traction. Pull out slowly in low gear. If you can’t pull out, it is best to use your winch, or get aid from another vehicle on solid ground. Don’t spin your wheels. Don’t “rock out.” It puts a -strain on your vehicle and, even if you get out, probably digs deeper so that the going will be even tougher for the vehicle which follows you.
    68. FORDING STREAMS.—In cross country driving and sometimes on country roads, you may have to ford streams.
    A DRIVER MUST HAVE SOMETHING LACKING WHO
    SNATCH BLOCK
    ANCHOR
    driver’s manual
    69
    Before attempting this, you should know how deep the water is. Measure it yourself if necessary. If it is not deep enough to wet your vehicle’s electrical equipment, the vehicle can cross the ford under its own power, provided, of course, that it is otherwise passable.
    Cross slowly, driving in lowest gear.
    If the ford is deep enough for the spinning fan blades to catch water, loosen the fan belt before crossing. Otherwise, they may throw water over the electrical units.
    If you drive your vehicle much in sandy or muddy water, you should make sure that the brakes are inspected and cleaned of sand and mud as soon afterward as possible.
    69.	SWAMPS AND SOFT-BOTTOM STREAMS.—If you have to cross a swamp or ford a soft-bottom stream or deep mud hole, you can increase the ground support by placing boards, brush, or other similar materials under the wheels or tracks. Bine is not well suited for this purpose. The bark wears off and leaves a slippery surface. Oak gives good results. Someone will have to hold this material down until at least one vehicle has passed over and forced it into the mud.
    70.	STEEP GRADES.—a. Steep downgrades.—Make sure that your lowest gear is engaged before attempting to drive down any grade over 30 percent. (See fig. 43.)
    b. Steep upgrades.—Before driving up a steep grade, also make sure that the lowest gear is engaged. If the traction is poor you may have to use a winch. With the aid of a winch cable fastened to a tree or to a “deadman,” or to other vehicles, your vehicle can pull itself up the grade. If your truck has no winch, you may get help from one that has. In the absence of a winch, ordinary block and tackle may be used.
    71.	DRIVING OVER HILLTOPS.—When you drive over the top of a hill, if there is a sharp descent on the other side and you have too much speed, your front wheels may jump off the ground and come down with a bang. This is pretty tough on
    DOESN’T LOOK WHERE HE IS BACKING.
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    driver’s manual
    HOWSTEEP IS THE GRADE ?
    5% GRADE
    ------..... . .	. ....	~~15 FEET
    100 FEET
    l5-/.6«F2S——--------
    —	15 FEET
    100 FEET
    30 FEET
    100 FEET
    45 FEET
    100 FEET
    Figure 43.
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    71
    your vehicle and may cause you a lot of trouble. Pass over the crest of the hill slowly so that it will not happen.
    72.	CROSSING DITCHES.—You can cross small shallow ditches easily merely by shifting into a low gear and proceeding slowly. Enter obliquely, so that one wheel leaves the ditch as the other wheel on the same axle enters it.
    In crossing deep ditches, engage the lowest forward gear. On the way down, keep the clutch engaged. When you reach the bottom, release the brake and accelerate the motor enough to keep rolling, as you go up the other side. If the ditch is deep and has very steep sides, you may have to cut away the tops of the banks before attempting to cross.
    73.	CROSSING TRENCHES.—You can cross narrow trenches by building a makeshift bridge of any suitable and available material, such as channel iron, logs, poles or planks, but remember that your truck is heavy and you may not be an engineer. Where possible, get an officer’s advice before trying to build a bridge that must support your vehicle.
    Sometimes, especially with wide trenches, you can break down the sides, partly till in the bottom and cross as you would cross a ditch.
    74.	HARD RUTS OR TRACKS CAN THROW YOU.—Hard ruts (frozen or sun baked) can throw your vehicle out of control or pull off a tire. Either may start a skid. When you can, keep out of hard ruts and car tracks. Ride the ridges.
    75.	SOFT RUTS.—It is often all right to drive in soft ruts, in loose soil, sand or mud. Soft ruts increase traction and are much less dangerous than hard ruts.
    76.	WOODED COUNTRY.—Woods help to screen you and your vehicle from air observation, but they also present certain problems which you must consider.
    a.	Look out for stumps.—A tree stump which is too high can cause serious damage to the axles and other low parts of your vehicle if you straddle it. Any stumps will injure your tires
    RESPECT THE RIGHTS OF OTHERS.
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    if you scrape them. Try to avoid these dangers when in woods or cut woods.
    b.	Lotv limbs.—When you must drive through wooded country. whether on country roads or cross country, low hanging limbs may break your top bows. It is usually best to remove the top and all top bows for field operation. Keep alert and remove limbs which may hit your cab or load.
    c.	Timber on road.—Heavy timber which blocks the road may often be crossed by piling dirt or other material on each side of the timber so as to permit your vehicle to climb up one side and down the other.
    d.	Rocks and boulders present the same difficulties as tree stumps and you should take the same precautions.
    77.	WINTER CONDITIONS.—a. Driving on ice or hard snow.—On ice or on hard snow, particularly if it is smooth, there is great danger of skidding or slipping and a serious accident. The best way to be safe is to drive with great care.
    Go slowly.
    If you are on a road which slopes toward the side ditches, it may be helpful to straddle the crown in order to avoid sliding to the side (fig. 44). Obviously in such a center-of-the-road position you will have to be extremely careful to avoid crashing into other traffic.
    On slippery ground, avoid rocks, car tracks, and other objects which might throw your vehicle sidewise and start a skid. Avoid sudden stops, sudden turns, and sudden speeding up or slowing down. Any sudden change in the vehicle’s momentum may start your vehicle slipping and skidding.
    b.	Lower tire pressure on ice, hard snow, or sand.—By letting some of the air out of your tires, you increase their area of contact with the road and get more traction. This is often helpful when driving on ice, hard-packed snow, or sand, but you should do it only in an emergency.
    If you have lowered the pressure in your tires, be sure to
    SLOW—SCHOOL.
    driver’s manual
    73
    Figure 44.—Riding the crown.
    pump them up to full pressure just as soon as the need for low-pressure is over.
    c.	Starting on smooth ice or snow.—When starting on smooth ice or snow, shift into second or third gear, rather than low,
    DRIVING IS YOUR JOB. DO IT WELL.
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    engage the clutch gradually, and do not accelerate the engine more than is necessary to keep it from stalling. The wheels will spin less than if you used low gear and you will be more likely to start.
    d.	Cooling system.—Be sure you have enough antifreeze to prevent your radiator from freezing. If not, you may have to drain the cooling system when your vehicle is not in use, or run the engine sufficiently to keep the coolant from freezing. A cardboard or similar radiator covei’ will help to prevent freezing.
    e.	Oil.—Remember that oil thickens in cold weather. It will make the engine harder to start. Sometimes towing or pushing your vehicle, with the gears and clutch engaged, may be a better way to start your engine than running your battery down by excessive cranking.
    Under extreme arctic conditions with temperature many degrees below zero, it may be necessary to run your engine regularly and frequently day and night to keep the oil fluid enough; sometimes it may be desirable to drain the oil from the crankcase, and keep it in a warmer place while the vehicle is not jn use.
    f.	Use of blanket.—Blankets or other covers will help to keep the engine warm after operation and aid it in warming up in starting.
    g.	Brakes.—Wet brake linings can freeze to the drums when the temperature, falls below 32°. Frozen brakes are difficult to release. Therefore, avoid leaving brakes set overnight under these conditions. If necessary, block the wheels instead, or leave the vehicle in gear.
    h.	Parking.—Remember that if you park your vehicle in mud or slush, the wheels can be “frozen in” when it gets colder, causing you hard work and delay. If freezing is likely, try to park in a dry spot. If you can’t find a dry spot, make one by placing any suitable and available dry material on the ground,
    DON’T BE AN ACCIDENT LOOKING
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    or dig down and clear the mud and slush from under your vehicle.
    78.	DRIVING IN DESERTS, SAND, OR DUST.—Desert or desert-like driving, with its sand storms and dust clouds, presents special difficulties, both from difficult terrain and dirty air.
    a.	Deflate tires for better traction.—When the sand is soft and the going hard, you can get greater traction by deflating the tires so as to get slightly more surface in contact with the ground. Deflating them too far, however, injures the tires and should be avoided. Be sure that the tires are not kept underinflated any longer than is necessary.
    b.	Carburetor air cleaner.—This is a device for cleaning the air before it goes into your carburetor. If the outside air is full of dust and sand, the air cleaner will soon become overburdened and dirt may enter and damage your rings, pistons, cylinders and valves. There is a quantity of oil in the lower base of the unit to collect the heavy particles which fall out of the air before it passes through an oil-soaked wire mesh to take out the finer particles. When a vehicle is operating in sand and dust storms the mesh must be kept clean and the oil level must be maintained. This means checking the oil level every day and cleaning the mesh every day. If you do not know how, ask your noncommissioned officer to show you.
    c.	Breather-pipe-cap air cleaner.—The cap which you remove to pour oil into the crankcase sometimes contains an air cleaner also. When it is very sandy or very dusty this must be cleaned daily in this way: (1) remove it, (2) wash it in a cleansing agent, (3) soak it in oil, and (4) reinstall it.
    d.	Oil filter.—Your truck contains an oil filter which removes grit or other foreign particles from the oil. When you are driving in frequent dust or sand storms, it is particularly important that you examine your oil carefully each day, rubbing some of it between the tips of your finger and thumb. Or, you can wipe the dip stick on a white rag; the oil will be absorbed,
    FOR A PLACE TO HAPPEN.
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    leaving any solids on the surface. If the oil seems at all gritty, report the condition immediately. It indicates that the filter is not functioning properly. The filter should have attention and the oil should be changed.
    e.	Fresh oil.—You should take great care to protect clean oil from dust and sand in the air at all times, especially when it is being poured into the crankcase, or when it is otherwise exposed. If necessary, you can protect it against dust-bearing or sandbearing winds by setting up canvas screens. You can make these from tarpaulins. Don’t set the filler can down in the dirt while you open the hood.
    f.	Excessive heat.—When driving in extremely hot weather, do not remove the sides of the hood because this reduces the efficiency of the fan. If the engine overheats, consult the officer or noncommissioned officer in charge of your unit.
    Keep your radiator free of bugs, grass, leaves or anything else that clogs the air spaces.
    Ask your noncommissioned officer about any plate or similar obstruction which cuts off air and keeps the radiator from cooling effectively. Insignia plates on radiators not only reduce the cooling effect but may give information to the enemy.
    Watch your fan belt carefully. Be sure that the fan is operating properly with the belt at proper tension—not too loose and not too tight.
    ANY CORNER MIGHT MAKE A MOURNER.
    Chapter 5
    SAFE DRIVING IN WARFARE OR MANEUVERS
    79.	THEATER OF OPERATIONS.—In war, the area in which a military campaign is conducted is called a “theater of operations.” Here enemy action and unusual emergencies add new hazards to those which you normally face when you drive a motor vehicle.
    Some men get the idea that because war involves dangerous acts, it is “smart” to be reckless all the time under war conditions.
    Quite to the contrary, the more we suffer by enemy action, and the more we are compelled to take risks, the more we need to avoid losing men and property through carelessness or recklessness. A hero takes risks when he hopes to gain a worthy objective; only a fool takes risks needlessly.
    80.	SIMULATED WAR CONDITIONS.—Many of the tasks which we must do in a theater of operations call for experience and skill—acquired only by practice. To get that practice we hold field exercises or maneuvers to simulate, or pretend, war conditions.
    In these, also, some men get the idea that because they are pretending that war conditions exist, they should be reckless. These men too are wrong.
    Armies on maneuvers, in war or peace, do not actually try to kill the soldiers of the “enemy” army. They do not actually try to destroy the “enemy’s” equipment or supplies. In fact, they take care to see that these losses do not occur.
    In the same way, even though maneuvers may require you to do things which involve some extra risk, such as “blackout” 77
    GIVE THE RIGHT OF WAY.
    455250° 42	«
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    driving at night, there is all the more reason for you to be careful. Take no unnecessary risk.
    81.	SPECIAL TRAFFIC REGULATIONS.—In a real or imaginary theater of operations, and elsewhere if needed, you will find special traffic regulations, usually including a traffic “circulation plan.”
    These special regulations vary greatly. An attempt is made to have as few of them as possible. However, the greater the traffic and the fewer and poorer the roads, the greater the need for special plans to avoid confusion, delays, and accidents.
    Under these regulations, military police are stationed at crossroads and junctions; many signs are posted giving special information; many roads are limited to one-way traffic, others have traffic moving only in one direction during certain hours and only in the opposite direction during other hours.
    You may find that the traffic circulation plan at night is entirely different from the one used by day.
    If there is much enemy air activity (real or simulated), you may find that your outfit, instead of proceeding as a unit, sends out trucks individually at intervals. You may therefore be given a copy of a circulation map showing just which roads you may use, and when. Then you will be Aery much on your own.
    You may find that the roads are congested with troops marching on foot, with artillery, or even with civilian refugees moving to the rear. Certain roads are usually reserved for the artillery at stated times.
    You may find that the right side of the road has been reserved for troops marching on foot, and that vehicles are required to keep to the left; or, sometimes, the exact reverse may be true.
    82.	OBSERVE AND COMPLY WITH ALL REGULATIONS.—Whatever the special regulations may be, they are all made to insure that all troops and all supplies get there safely and on time.
    ENTER CURVES SLOWLY.
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    If you do not comply with some of these special regulations you may cause accidents and delay. Delay may interfere with the tactical operations, thus causing unnecessary casualties in action.
    Your own safety, as well as the safe conduct of all traffic, demands that you learn all special regulations and carefully comply with them. Stay off roads on which you don’t belong.
    83.	FOREIGN RULES OF THE ROAD.—a. Rules differ — In some countries the rules of the road differ from those in the United States. For example, in many nations, including some of our own possessions, it is customary to drive to the left of the road. When United States troops occupy such territory, orders are usually issued stating whether the local rules of the road or our own will apply. When we have large forces occupying an area, our own customs may be installed, but when our forces are few, compared with the inhabitants or troops of that foreign country, our troops will probably follow local customs.
    b. Foreign customs create a hazard.—Regardless of whether the driving customs of the United States or those of the foreign country are in effect when you are on duty abroad, the difference between them creates a hazard. It is hard to break long-established practices which have become almost habits.
    If the foreign customs are in effect, you will have to keep constantly alert to avoid absent-mindedly doing as you would in the United States.
    If the United States customs are put into effect, local drivers may forget and revert to their own practices.
    In either case, you must keep constantly alert to avoid accidents due to the difference in rules of the road.
    84.	GENERAL SAFETY PRECAUTIONS APPLY.—When you are in a real or imaginary theater of operations, or on foreign soil, you will be fully informed of all special regulations which may apply to you.
    CROSS CROSSINGS CAUTIOUSLY.
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    To be as safe as possible, apply the same safety measures you would apply in normal driving except those which conflict with the special instructions.
    85.	BLACKOUTDRIVING.—a. Need for blackout driving.— In war, when it is necessary to keep all movements secret and free from enemy observation, motor vehicles must usually move at night, with safety blackout lights only. This blackout driving requires experience and skill. It is therefore necessary that you practice it in maneuvers so that you can operate in actual war at night without lights.
    b.	Blackout lamps.—Modern military vehicles are equipped with blackout lamps, which make driving in the dark considerably safer. Blackout lamps are placed on both the front and rear of modern military vehicles. They do not illuminate the road, but they do show the position of a vehicle as much as 800 feet ahead of you or behind you, depending on the weather, making it easier to drive in column and reducing the danger of collision, but cannot be seen from an airplane higher than 400 feet.
    c.	Blackout lamps indicate distances.—Blackout lamps are so designed that you can tell when you get too close to the vehicle ahead.
    The standard U. S. Army lamps work this way—
    (1)	Rear lamps.—These are divided into four parts, which appear to you as one light, when you are 180 feet or more from the vehicle ahead. At distances between 180 and 60 feet (60 to 20 yards) there seem to be two points of light, and at distances of 60 feet (20 yards) and less you see four points of light.
    One point of light informs you that you are pretty far behind the fellow ahead; two lights assure you, “O. K., you are following at a moderate distance,” and four lights scream “LOOK OUT! You’re getting too close for blackout driving!”
    (2)	Front lamps.—The front lamps are slightly different. Each lamp is divided into two parts. When you look at it from
    TAKE IT EASY—YOU’LL LAST LONGER.
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    a distance of 60 feet or more, it appears to be one light. When you are within 60 feet, you see two lights, which warn you, “Look out! That vehicle is getting pretty close.”
    d.	Other blackout lamps.—Under the stress of- war you may find several other designs of blackout lamps. It may even be necessary to use some vehicles not equipped with blackout lights.
    e.	Know the blackout conditions.—The blackout lamps make driving in the dark easier and safer than many people believe. There are also many nights when moonlight is bright' enough that you can see rather clearly. However, it is important that you know the exact conditions under which you are driving and act accordingly.
    Make it a point to be sure what kind of blackout lamps, if any, are being used and what distances are indicated by their varying appearance.
    f.	Reducing risk in blackout driving.—Obviously the first safeguard in blackout driving is greatly reduced speed. When you first attempt blackout operation, therefore, have plenty of room and drive at a crawl.
    Watch the rear blackout lights of the vehicle ahead, if you are driving in a column. It will serve as a pilot, because where it has gone safely, you can go with caution. You can see better if you open your windshield.
    When practicable, post a man in the rear part of your vehicle to warn the driver who follows, if he comes too close. The warning must be given in a way which conforms with the existing blackout regulations. A screened flashlight might be permitted in the hands of a trained and reliable man. If not, a white handkerchief or some other white object will usually do.
    If the vehicle which is following is equipped with forward blackout lights, he will spot it more easily. But even if the vehicle has no lamps, an alert “rear guard” can usually make it out at a reasonable distance, because few nights are totally dark.
    USE YOUR BRAKES INSTEAD OF YOUR HORN.
    Chapter 6
    FOUR HIDDEN ENEMIES
    86.	FIRE.—Every motor-propelled vehicle must be equipped with an approved type of tire extinguisher. If yours doesn't have one, see your noncommissioned officer and get one.
    Shut off the engine before refueling. Do not spill gasoline on a hot exhaust pipe.
    Water used on a gasoline or oil fire spreads the flame. If you don't have enough fire extinguishers, throw sand or dirt on a blaze of this kind. This will smother it.
    Gasoline vapor may catch on fire even when the spark or flame is several feet from the liquid gasoline. Therefore, if fire is near, do not fill a gasoline tank or work on a carburetor or fuel system. This means no smoking in any inclosed room containing gasoline, or outdoors within 25 feet of exposed gasoline. If you need light to perform the work, an electric light is the sensible and safe thing to use. Don’t use open flame or lanterns.
    Oily or greasy rags kept in your vehicle increase the fire hazard. Get rid of them.
    Don’t spill oil on the engine when filling the crankcase.
    Use kerosene, rather than gasoline, when cleaning oil and grease from metal parts of your vehicle.
    87.	RISKY RIDING.—a. Mounting and dismounting.—When you are transporting individuals or troops, caution the individuals or the officer or noncommissioned officer in charge of the troops that it is unsafe for anyone to mount or dismount from your vehicle except when it is stopped. They should dismount one at a time.
    b. Driver’s seat.—In an emergency you need room enough to act with all the speed of which you are capable. Therefore, be 82
    AFTER THE WRECK COMES THE RECKONING.
    driver’s manual
    83
    Figure 45.—Put tail gate down before troops mount or dismount
    sure that the driver’s seat is not crowded. Standard military vehicles have room for only two people on the driver’s seat (yourself and one other). To be safe, don’t allow any more on the seat.
    c.	Unauthorized passengers-—Do not permit unauthorized persons to ride in your vehicle.
    d.	Tail gate.—When troops or other passengers are getting on a truck, or particularly when they are getting off, open the vehicle’s tail gate so that they will be less likely to trip and fall (fig. 45). But don’t leave it open. Your passengers or load will be safer if you close the tail gate before starting and so will the tail gate. Make it a practice to keep the tail gate opened while the vehicle is loading or unloading and closed while the vehicle is moving.
    e.	Keep passengers in safe positions.—You may be compelled to drive very close to other vehicles or objects during your
    GIVE THE RIGHT OF WAY.
    TAILGATE UP-SOLDIER DOWN	TAIL GATE DOWN— TROOPS
    AHO OUT-ONE MORE CASUALTY	DISMOUNT SAFELY
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    trip, or someone may bump you from the rear. Don’t let your passengers get hurt. Permit no one to ride with his head, arms, legs, or any part of his body protruding from the sides or rear of your vehicle.
    For similar reasons, and also to prevent passengers from falling off or being thrown off, permit no one to ride on your running board, fenders, hood, or tail gate.
    Warn all passengers not to stand except when your vehicle is halted, because if you start, stop, or turn suddenly, or have a collision, they might be thrown off balance and possibly out of the vehicle. Always keep the safety strap hooked while transporting troops.
    88.	UNSAFE LOADING.—a. Load cargo safely.—An improperly loaded cargo may shift or fall off. It may even cause a truck to overturn on a curve, in an accident, or on uneven ground.
    b. Protruding loads.—Whenever possible, avoid loads which stick out over the driver’s seat, or beyond the tail of your truck. Loads which stick out over the side, so that your vehicle requires a wider lane than usual, are especially dangerous.
    If a load unavoidably extends more than 2 or 3 feet beyond the rear of the truck, mark it on the end so that others will plainly see it. In daylight a red cloth at least 12 inches square is. preferable ; at night, a lighted red lantern. Don’t use green; it means “all clear” instead of “danger.”
    89.	HOW TO LOAD.—To get the best results from your vehicle, its capacity and cargo space must be used efficiently, and therefore you must know something about loads and loading. Except under unusual circumstances, it is not part of your job to load and unload cargoes, but you are responsible for making sure of the following:
    a. Do not exceed maximum authorized load.—Maximum pay loads and maximum tow loads for road operations as well as for cross country operations, are shown on plates on your iustru-
    IT’S YOUR LIFE—TAKE CARE OF IT.
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    85
    inent panel. Do not permit your vehicle to be loaded beyond these maximums except in emergencies, and then only by order of proper authority.
    b. How to know when you have sufficient load.—You do not need to weigh your truck or to know the weight of your cargo in order to judge when it is loaded to the maximum. Learn the position of the rear springs when you know the vehicle is loaded to the authorized maximum. Then when the springs sink below that position, you will know that the vehicle is overloaded oi- that the springs have become weak.
    c. Proper location and distribution of load.—To carry its maximum cargo and to do it safely, your vehicle must be correctly loaded. If the load is unbalanced, the vehicle may overturn or at least become more difficult to handle. One loose piece of cargo may release an entire load. You should observe the following principles:
    (1) Heavy supplies should be placed at the bottom of the load and evenly distributed throughout the body of the truck.
    (2) The cargo should be carefully built up so as to avoid shifting (fig. 46).
    Figure 46.—Proper and improper loading.
    LUBRICATION POSTPONES REPAIRS.
    PROPER LOADING	^^^(mPROPER LOADING =*
    © ©
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    Figure 47.—How to lash a load.
    (3) If your load is too high, it may cause swaying and danger of overturning, and will make the vehicle hard to handle. Avoid this by keeping the load low.
    (4) If your vehicle is not covered, place a tarpaulin over the cargo as a protection against sun, dust, or rain.
    d. Make the load secure.—A load which extends above the top of the vehicle body should be securely lashed. Two 60-foot ropes will do the job.
    Lash-hooks or rings are usually provided on the bodies of cargo-carrying vehicles.
    You should lash your load as shown in figure 47.
    (1)	Fasten the end of one rope to one of the front lash-hooks or rings (Al).
    (2)	Pass the rope diagonally across the top of the load through or under the second rope support on the other side (A2), and pull the rope tight.
    (3)	Pass the rope diagonally back across the top of the load to the first side through or under the third rope support on that side (A3) and pull the rope tight.
    KEEP ’EM ROLLING
    B5 A4	83 A2	Bl
    A5 B4 A3 B2 Al
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    (4) Continue the process until you have reached the rear of the truck, and then fasten the end of the rope securely (A4 and A5).
    (5) Using the second rope, start at the other front corner of the truck and repeat the procedure using alternate lash-hooks or rings (B1-B2-B3-B4-B5).
    c. Watch your load in transit.-—After your vehicle has been loaded, you are responsible for the safety of the load until you have reached your destination and unloaded the cargo. Keep alert to make sure nothing goes wrong.
    90. SPECIAL CAUTIONS IN LOADING.—a. Ammunition is explosive. Handle it with care. No smoking. Watch out for overloading; ammunition is heavy.
    I). Baled goods are best loaded on the bed of the truck. Place large and heavy bales always on bottom.
    c.	Barrels (with heads or empty) should be loaded on their sides, pyramided.
    d.	Barrels (without heads or covered with burlap) should be stood upright, on their solid ends.
    e.	Gas shells.—As a precaution against being overcome by leaking gas, carry a gas mask whenever you are transporting gas shells. Remember also that a gas mask is no good unless it is right at hand when you need it and you know how to put it on quickly.
    f.	Gasoline drums which leak should be reported before loading. If your truck or trailer is carrying gasoline, it should have a chain trailing from a metal part so that it drags on the ground with a few inches to spare. This lessens danger of fire from static electricity.
    g.	Inflammable rubbish.—If your truck is loaded with inflammable rubbish, such as excelsior, paper, or packing material, unload it, if practicable, before parking for the night.
    h.	Sacked goods should be pyramided and “tied” together by crossing the sacks.
    BUT DON’T ROLL 'EM OVER.
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    91.	CARBON MONOXIDE.—Every minute your engine is running, quantities of carbon monoxide—a deadly, odorless, colorless gas—are pouring out of the exhaust pipe. Carbon monoxide is really dangerous; it strikes without warning. If you run a gasoline engine in a closed garage or shop, you may poison or kill yourself or your companions.
    Always drive with your cab window or ventilator at least partly open, regardless of the weather. Carbon monoxide may leak into the cab. When you have passengers in the rear, keep the front tarpaulin flap open to protect them from carbon monoxide.
    Anyone poisoned by carbon monoxide gas should be removed to the open air and warmth and artificial respiration should be applied at once. Get medical assistance immediately.
    TAKE MORE TIME TO DRIVE SAFELY
    Chapter 7
    PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE
    92.	PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE IS ESSENTIAL TO VICTORY IN WAR.—As a soldier, you realize that rapid movement of an army is more important today than ever before in conducting a successful military campaign. The rapid blows of armored forces must be supported by fast-moving infantry and artillery, and these mobile troops must have an equally mobile supply. All this is possible with motor vehicles, provided they keep rolling.
    Preventive maintenance is the only means by which motor vehicles can be kept rolling.
    As a soldier-driver, you are the foundation upon which all preventive maintenance depends. It is your job to do those things which prevent your vehicle from breaking down.
    Therefore, five different preventive maintenance schedules have been prescribed for you to perform. You have been, or will be, trained in how to carry them out. Therefore, it is not necessary for this guide to state in detail what they require of you. For your convenience, however, paragraphs 93 to 97, inclusive, list the items from the preventive maintenance schedule forms which are used for training purposes.
    They will help you to remember the important things.
    93.	PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE (P. M. S.) NO. 2—“DAILY AFTER OPERATION.”—You are a soldier and a member of an army, and an army must be able to act at any time, on a moment’s notice. Therefore, when your vehicle comes in, you must make sure that it will he ready to roll, whenever necessary. This is the purpose of Preventive Mainte-
    89
    IF YOU WANT MORE TIME TO LIVE.
    90	driver’s manual
    nance Schedule No. 2, which you perform after each tour of operation. It includes—
    a.	In cab, before stopping engine.
    2-1. Hand brake
    2-2. Engine noises—smoothness of idle
    2-3. Temperature gage
    2-4. Oil pressure gage
    2-5. Viscometer
    2-6. Ammeter
    2-7. Tachometer
    2-8. Air brake pressure gage
    2-9. Fuel gage
    2-10. Windshield wipers
    2-11. Heater and defroster
    b.	In cab, after stopping engine.
    2-12. Horn
    2-13. Fire extinguisher
    2-14. Rear view mirrors
    c.	Exterior, front, right side, rear and left side.
    2-15. Lights
    2-16. Windshield
    2-17. Wheels and axle flanges
    2-18. Brake drums and w’heel hubs
    2-19. Sheet metal
    2-20. Power take-off and winch
    2-21. Bumpers, towing hooks, pintle and safety chains
    2-22. Load, tarpaulin, fastenings
    2-23. Tractor fifth wheel and plate
    2-24. Trailer lighting and brake connection
    d.	Under vehicle.
    2-25. Steering mechanism
    2-26. Tires
    2-27. Spare tire carrier
    2-28. Springs and suspensions
    DON’T CHANGE GEARS IN THE
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    2-29. Flexible brake lines
    2-30. Air brake reservoirs
    2-31. Driving axles
    2-32. Transmission
    2-33. Transfer case
    2-34. Propeller shafts e. Under hood.
    2-35. Radiator
    2-36. Water leaks
    2-37. Fan belt
    2-38. Engine oil
    2-39. Oil leaks
    2-40. Oil filler cap (breather), after dusty operation
    2-41. Carburetor air cleaner, after dusty operation
    2-42. Spark plugs, distributor and coil
    2-43. Fuel leaks f. Exterior, final.
    2-44. Refuel tank
    2-45. Tools, tire chains and other equipment
    94.	PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE (P. M. S.) NO. 3—“DAILY BEFORE OPERATION.”—Although you inspect and service your vehicle thoroughly after each tour of operation, there is always a chance that something might happen to it before you use it again. A slow leak may have deflated one of the tires; an oil or gas leak may have created a fire hazard or left your vehicle without fuel or lubricant; someone might have bumped into it during the night; or there may have been an act of sabotage. For this reason P. M. S. No. 3 has been designed merely as a quick check to make sure that the vehicle is still in as good order as you left it.
    This before operation check is a matter of only a few moments. Many of the items can be covered by a mere glance. But it does give you the satisfaction of feeling confident that your vehicle
    MIDDLE OF A BAD SPOT.
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    remains in the same good condition in which you placed it. It includes—
    a.	Exterior, before starting engine.
    3-1. Vehicle in general, leaks
    3-2. Radiator
    3-3. Engine oil
    3-4. Fuel
    b.	In cab, starting engine.
    3-5. Starter
    3-6. Instruments, horn, windshield wTiper
    3-7. Fire extinguisher
    c.	Exterior, front, right side, rear, and left side (with engine warming up).
    3-8. Lights
    3-9. Windshield
    3-10. Load, tarpaulin, etc.
    3-11. Tractor fifth wheel and plate
    3-12. Trailer lighting and brake connections
    3-13. Tools, tire chains and other equipment
    d.	Under vehicle.
    3-14. Tires
    3-15. Ground beneath vehicle
    e.	In cab, engine warmed up.
    3-16. Engine.
    95.	PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE (P. M. S.) NO. 4—“DAILY DURING OPERATION.”—Many of the defects which a vehicle may have can be detected only while the vehicle is actually in operation. Other defects may develop while the vehicle is in operation. You may save an accident or prevent serious damage to your vehicle by keeping constantly alert for signs of any such defect. This is the purpose of P. M. S. No. 4. When you start out in the morning you can test the steering gear, brakes, and clutch; then you will be fairly confident that they will not give trouble during the day’s operation.
    SAFE OPERATION OF THE VEHICLE
    driver’s manual
    93
    During the entire march you may avoid trouble by listening carefully to the sound of your motor, by observing your instruments, and by noting in general how the vehicle responds to your will. Here is the list:
    4-1. Unusual sounds
    4-2. Instruments
    4-3. Steering
    4-4. Brakes
    4-5. Clutch
    4-6. Transmission
    4-7. Performance
    96.	PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE (P. M. S.) NO. 5—“AT HALT.”—At each halt of sufficient duration you have an opportunity to observe certain items which may not have been evident while you were running. These are listed in P. M. S. No. 5.
    a.	In cab.
    5-1. Hand brakes
    b.	Exterior, front, right side, rear, and left side.
    5-2. Windshield
    5-3. Brake drums and wheel hubs
    5-4. Load, tarpaulin, etc.
    5-5. Trailer lighting and brake connections c. Under vehicle.
    5-6. Steering mechanism
    5-7. Tires
    5-8. Springs and suspensions
    5-9. Driving axles
    5-10. Transmission
    5-11. Transfer case
    d. Under hood.
    5-12. Radiator
    5-13. Water leaks
    5-14. Fan belt
    5-15. Engine oil
    IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY.
    94
    driver’s manual
    97. PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE (P. M. S.) NO. 6—“WEEKLY.”—To keep your vehicle operating smoothly, you will need to check, tighten, and service certain important units approximately once a week. This is also the time for cleaning the vehicle inside and out, and doing any other work necessary to give it a good military appearance. The weekly schedule therefore includes—
    a.	In cab.
    6-1. Cab floor mat and floor.
    6-2. Cab lining and slats
    6-3. Upholstery
    6-4. Clutch pedal free travel
    6-5. Body hoist
    b.	Exterior, front, right side, rear, and left side.
    6-6. Body.
    6-7. Fenders and support bracket bolts.
    6-8. Bumpers and support bolts.
    6-9. Brush guards.
    6-10. Tags and brackets.
    6-11. Tractor “fifth wheel,” towing assemblies, etc.
    6-12. Door locks and handles.
    6-13. Door hinges.
    6-14. Door glass regulators.
    c.	Under vehicle.
    6-15. Steering knuckles (front driving axles).
    6-16. Shock absorbers.
    6-17. Transfer case bolts to frame.
    d.	Under hood.
    6-18. Battery.
    6-19. Engine, clean.
    e.	Exterior, final.
    6-20. General tightening.
    6-21. Check of lubrication.
    6-22. Vehicle, clean.
    6-23. Tires.
    QUIT YOUR SKIDDING.
    driver’s manual
    95
    98. LUBRIC ATION.—When everything is going well and you are in close touch with the second-echelon mechanics of your unit, the amount of lubrication which you, as a driver, must perform is limited. It is extremely probable, however, that occasions will arise in the field when the responsibility for lubricating your vehicle will fall entirely on your shoulders. That is why you should be present when your vehicle is being lubricated by second-echelon mechanics. That is also why you are expected to assist the mechanics in such lubrication. Thus, you will learn how to perforin this important duty yourself if it becomes necessary. An improperly lubricated vehicle is sure to go out of action within a short time.
    Different makes and models of vehicles require different kinds of lubrication and at different points. You have a maintenance manual for the vehicle to which you are assigned and the details for proper lubrication of that vehicle are contained in that manual. You should study these details carefully.
    They will be given in the form of a chart, which may be arranged somewhat like the one shown in figure 48. Find the chart that applies to your vehicle, and learn to read it.
    FOLLOW AT A SAFE DISTANCE.
    96
    DRIVER S MANUAL
    3. Tie-Rod End.	LUBRICATION CHART
    4. Drag-Link End.	Figure 48.—Typical lubrication chart.—Always con-
    6. Universal Joint (Needle).	suit the manufacturer’s maintenance manual for
    „ T • *	vehicle you are lubricating; each type of ve-
    7. blip Joint.	hide has a different chart.
    9. Tachometer Adapter.	r	---------------------------------------—
    10. Lever Shaft.	| b..”	\ -	,,	' „ '	...	-
    13. Brake Camshaft.	|	■ n sz’24,	---1=
    14. Spring Bearing.	I	i I 1 j, /	I t I «
    c 44I_______ \ J j T1_1 _j /	I J 30
    16.	King Pin.	|	18
    17.	Air Brake Valve.	J	C
    18.	Shock-Absorber Linkage.	'« i-j—>■ <
    ibH—H---L-1—Jts
    19.	Wheel Bearing.	13 —■*— ।-vJ I//	*5’
    21.	Linkage.	27 —--4—U j	11/ jD—4_■_—L?
    22.	Steering Gear.	|9«|_J	_l9‘
    23.	Winch Worm Housing.	4Q—L—L—I — is
    24.	Winch Drum Bearing.	3_|	I I I I
    25.	Winch Shaft.	4 Um1—|-''/ZZ'fjJMI r\_I 1
    9	1 ■■K^EsS I	1 1 v
    27.	Axle Universal.	38«-/ /■ g- -{—*—Ise
    28.	Transmission.	ho bi •'H	:44g
    10 H--------it—T	i—__	। । o?
    29.	Transfer Case.	17 ~■ [i>Ow*T**	I I , I
    30.	Axle Housing.	10	| I	j	6
    33.	Water Pump.	j | j	10
    34.	Distributor.	6 —[—>-—10
    7---L-l------■	।
    35.	Generator.	-4
    38.	Air Cleaner.	k
    40. Crankcase.	r ' J	I	R pft
    DRIVER S MANUAL
    97
    43.	Pintle Hook.	। •< r: i	।	■
    44.	Fan Hub.	6 [j |	| I	L. «« ।
    52.	Winch Cable Roller Shaft.	J1 :l “j	XVA	I	/	13
    1 jrwL/hn
    Cleaning Rag.	isl*.	-i-u9
    Screw Driver.	I’ll ‘ll
    Open-end Wrench.	■ l4__\ 1	___.,4
    Adjustable Wrench.	■r’°>
    INSTRUCTIONS	19 *- | I	|	| "T~
    Clean and lubricate all points in the order indi-	’	>	V
    cated, except those which require disassembly.	13 ____y A \\\
    Clean all vents.	I— _	\ \
    Check and adjust level in housings.	T \ \ \
    Disassemble as separately instructed.	'...~f \	,
    Drain as separately instructed.	43	\ \ \____[■ ;
    Frame A. Chassis grease.	L...-	■.r...J.33O*JX..	> .
    Frame B. Item 21, Engine oil. Others, Gear oil.	Lubricants, indicated by symbol
    Frame C. Item 34, Engine oil.	----------------------------------——
    Others, Chassis grease.	Predominating Above g^T'and Below 0° F.
    Frame D. Jtem 22, Gear oil.	temperatures 32 r. Qo F____________
    Others, Chassis grease.	Chassis grease_	2	2 1.
    ---------- Engine oil___________________________30	10 10, with kerosene •Disassembly required.	Qearoil_____ 90	Diesel fuel.
    •Vent.	____________________________________
    Chapter 8
    IF SOMETHING GOES WRONG
    99.	SOME TROUBLE MAY ARISE.—If you carefully carry out the preventive maintenance schedules outlined in this Driver’s Manual, and if you drive carefully and safely, nothing whatsoever is likely to go wrong. However, in spite of all that you can do, something beyond your control may cause mechanical trouble or accident.
    100.	WHAT TO DO.—a. How serious is the trouble?—When you were trained in preventive maintenance, you were instructed to note certain defects when they occur. This means that faults which are not serious enough to injure the vehicle immediately, should be corrected as soon as you have the opportunity—probably at the end of the day’s or night’s operation. Although defects noted are not important enough to justify dropping out of a motor march for emergency repairs, they should not be ignored, for they may soon grow to serious proportions.
    On the other hand, you were instructed to report immediately certain more serious faults which if neglected would quickly disable the vehicle.
    If you know that your vehicle's trouble is not serious, NOTE IT; if you know that it is serious, or if you are in doubt, REPORT IMMEDIATELY.
    b. How should you report?—Report promptly any trouble to your squad or section leader, or to the nearest officer or noncommissioned officer of your march unit if he is available. If not, you may report a serious defect to him by telephone, messenger, or any other practicable manner.
    If it is impracticable for you to make a report, use your best 98
    ENTER CURVES SLOWLY.
    driver’s manual
    99
    judgment as how you should act, remembering those two cardinal principles, “Keep ’em rolling” and “Get there.”
    101.	IF YOU ARE IN A MOTOR VEHICLE ACCIDENT.— Suppose that in spite of your care, you are involved in a motor vehicle accident. Then what should you do? There are some steps you can take to protect your own interests and those of the Government, as well as aiding any others who may be involved.
    102.	WHAT IS AN ACCIDENT?—To be sure that there is no mistake as to what an accident is, let’s define it. An accident is a “mishap resulting in injury to a person or animal, or damage to a thing.” Note that the definition does not specify how much damage or injury is required to call it an accident. Great or trivial as the damage may be, any mishap which causes the slightest injury or damage to any person, or any animal, or any thing, is an accident.
    103.	ALWAYS STOP AND INVESTIGATE.—No matter how slight the accident, always stop and investigate it. Under the general policy of the Army, you should cooperate with the civil law, which in most places requires you to stop, whether the accident be a serious crash or the slightest scratching of a fender. The only exception to this rule might be in actual combat, or in case of evident military necessity, when you are operating under definite orders not to stop.
    104.	TAKE PRECAUTION AGAINST FURTHER ACCIDENT.—After a motor vehicle accident, the vehicle or vehicles involved are frequently in dangerous locations and often a crowd collects in the road. Many times another accident, perhaps even more serious than the first, occurs when another vehicle crashes into the wreck or persons in a crowd.
    To prevent additional accidents, damage, or injury, the first thing to do is to be sure guards, flares or lights (except in a blackout), or flags are posted to warn all other traffic to proceed with caution. If civil or military police are present they will
    SIGNAL YOUR INTENTIONS.
    100
    driver’s manual
    probably direct traffic. If troops are present, ask some of them to act as guards. If neither are present, ask any civilian.
    105.	AID TO INJURED.—Give immediate first aid to any who are injured. If more than one person is injured, it may be best to get assistance in giving first aid, and to supervise the work of your assistants so that all get prompt and proper attention.
    106.	PRECAUTIONS AGAINST FIRE.—In motor vehicle accidents there is the danger of spilled gasoline. Gasoline exposed to the air creates a highly inflammable vapor which means great danger of fire. Avoid this danger by cutting off engines and stopping all smoking whenever there is spilled gasoline or whenever vehicles are badly wrecked. Permit no open flame within 25 feet of the wreck.
    107.	SUMMON THE PROPER AUTHORITIES.—a. Doctor or ambulance.—If anyone appears to be injured, summon the nearest doctor or ambulance, military or civil, whichever can be secured in the least time. Military personnel having only moderate injuries should be sent to a military hospital when practicable.
    b.	Fire department.—If fire breaks out and you cannot stop it with a fire extinguisher or with sand, send for the fire department.
    c.	Civil police.—Most State laws require that police be summoned in cases of motor vehicle accidents. The Army cooperates with civil authorities in such matters. If civil police are not on hand, send for them.
    d.	Military police.—If you are in an area controlled by military police and think they are needed for traffic control or to handle crowds, send for military police, or ask the highest ranking person present to do it.
    108.	USING SEPARATE MESSENGERS.—When there are enough people available, you may be able to get needed aid
    BE ALERT. DON’T GET HURT.
    driver’s manual
    101
    more quickly by sending different messengers to summon doctors, firemen, and police, as may be needed.
    109.	REPORTING BY TELEPHONE.—Whenever practicable, report the accident to your commanding officer by telephone, just as soon as you have finished your urgent duties on the scene of the accident. If an assistant driver is present, you can probably have him phone while you are attending to other matters. In an emergency, you can usually get permission to use some nearby telephone, without charge. Your unit headquarters will accept a collect toll charge if you must report an accident by long-distance phone, or will reimburse you for the cost of a local call.
    110.	MAKING OUT AN ACCIDENT REPORT if you are involved in a crash is necessary for your protection, as well as the Government’s. Naturally, if the accident was not your fault, you don’t want to be blamed. Even if it was your fault, you don’t want somebody else to exaggerate it later because you didn’t report the facts and the witnesses’ names when the crash occurred. To help you report this vital information, the Army has furnished you with Standard Form No. 26 (Driver’s Report, Accident, Motor Transportation).
    This form explains itself well enough that if you will study the sample report filled out in the appendix, and remember the following tips, you aren’t likely to go wrong.
    a.	Keep your head.—Give first aid to those who need it; take precautions against fire and further accident; and then get your information for the report from the people who could help you before they have gone away.
    b.	Keep your temper.—Be courteous to people when you ask for information. Don’t bother to argue with the other driver; it won’t get you anywhere. If the fault was his, an investigating officer will decide that later.
    c.	Secure hard-to-get facts first.— (1) The first facts to get are those which you get by questioning other people, because
    WAIT—DON’T JUMP THE SIGNAL.
    102
    driver’s manual
    these people may not wait for you. For example, glancing at your report form, you will see that you need to get names and addresses of all other people involved, and of all witnesses. Don’t delay. Get this information while you can.
    (2) Next, get the facts that you can secure only by studying the scene of the accident. Even though most of the other people have gone, you should not leave until you have carefully noted the condition of the road, the position of the vehicles, the amount of damage, and any other facts that you can’t get after you have left the scene of the accident.
    (3) Fill in items such as your own name, the make of your vehicle, etc. (which you know or can easily get) after you have done everything else—perhaps even after you have left the scene of the crash.
    d.	Be exact.-—Be sure that your report gives a clear idea of what actually happened. Your diagram of the accident (cpies-tion 16) should show exactly where the vehicles were before and after the crash, exactly what obstacles blocked either driver’s view of line of travel. Every name should be spelled exactly right, every street address or pole described exactly by number. State exactly what damage you can see (as “crushed right rear wheel, bent or broken axle, crumpled fender”) but do not guess at damages that you cannot see, and do not guess at the value of damaged property.
    If somebody claims that you have damaged property of his, but you cannot see the damage, note only that he “claims bent frame” or whatever it is. Do the same way with injuries— report cuts, burns, broken bones, etc., of which you are certain, and note only that a person claims an injury when you have no way of knowing the truth—such as a strained back or internal injuries. If you cannot get the exact information on some item, write “unknown,” to show that you didn’t overlook it.
    e.	Use more paper if necessary.—Don’t think that the small amount of space on this form should limit you. If you need
    A MINUTE FOR SAFETY
    driver’s manual
    103
    more space, use a separate sheet of paper to answer a question; write “See attached” in the question on your report, and attach the extra sheets firmly to the report form.
    f.	Check each item.—Remember that you are an agent of the United States Government. As you fill in each item of the report, check it against what you can see about you and against your own common sense. When the other driver gives you his name, see that it is the same as the name on his driver’s permit. If not, find out why. If somebody gives you an address that you think is incorrect or does not exist, question him further, as tactfully as you can. If you have reason to doubt any information which you write on your report, be sure to call attention to your doubts by a note.
    g. Check the entire report.—After you have finished, look over the entire report and make sure that it is complete and accurate. If the investigating officer can secure a good picture of the accident from the information you have given him, you can expect a fair deal from him. Place yourself in his position. Do all your answers make sense? Do they all say what you meant to say? If so, sign your report and turn it over to the commanding officer or to the officer or noncommissioned officer in charge, without unnecessary delay.
    IS BETTER THAN A MONTH FOR REPAIRS.
    Appendix
    AN ACCIDENT REPORT, PROPERLY FILLED OUT
    The accident report, Standard Form No. 26 (Driver’s Report— Accident, Motor Transportation), which has been reproduced in figure 49, shows you how one driver who was unluckily involved in an accident filled out his report form.
    Notice that lie has done a good job. He has written clearly, has supplied all information necessary to understand WHO was in the accident, WHAT happened, WHEN and WHERE it happened, and HOW it happened. From this report, the investigating officer will be able to determine WHY the accident occurred, and WHO was responsible. Whoever was to blame, turning in a clear, understandable report will help you.
    Naturally, if you have an accident, the names, addresses, numbers, diagrams, and other information will be all different from those shown in figure 49. But if you are careful to get the information exactly and write it clearly, you should be able to turn in a report equally as good as this.
    And, by the way—is there an accident report in your vehicle now?
    [A. G. 062.11 (4-1-42).]
    By order of the Secretary of War :
    G. C. MARSHALL, Official:	Chief of Staff.
    J. A. ULIO,
    Major General,
    The Adjutant General.
    Distribution :
    X.
    (For explanation of symbols see FM 21-6.)
    104
    CARELESSNESS HELPS THE ENEMY.
    driver’s manual
    105
    Standard Form No. 26 Approved by the President June 10, 1927
    DRIVER’S REPORT—ACCIDENT
    MOTOR TRANSPORTATION
    INSTRUCTIONS TO DRIVERS
    In case of injury to person or damage to property:
    A.	Stop car and render such assistance as may he needed.
    B.	Fill out this form, ON THE SPOT, so far as possible.
    C.	Deliver this report promptly to your immediate superior.
    Failure to observe these instructions will result in disciplinary action.
    1.	Name of Government driver:
    2.	Stationed at ..
    3.	Make and type of Government vehicle ...................
    .........
    4.	Service number........................................
    5.	Name and address of owner of other vehicle (or owner of property damaged)	...........
    ....
    6.	Name and address of driver of other vehicle
    '7. License of other vehicle : State
    N.d.-J.W.'
    8. Place of accident: City
    10—1810
    No. L.Z. .................
    Street
    X .Of..................
    .......................................................
    Figure 49.
    106
    driver’s manual
    9.	Date of accident	-- 19.47... Hour
    10.	Names and addresses of persons injured; nature of injuries: /E./tf.-xljnMzwnxAZK."	...
    „ Maho/	n. Q-.
    11.	Describe damage to Government vehicle .#..-
    .■^4?r»UA-r................
    12.	Describe damage to privately owned vehicle, or other property:	...
    WOfc--
    vr
    /\ - &V»vM xJjlZxC^ g.	’sS- V\
    \^\l
    /y =	\
    driver’s manual
    107
    13.	What signal was given by each driver prior to accident?
    14.	State7 condiuonM’ light, weather, ar/d roadway : ..! ..........................................................
    *^***-t< ^VCV^
    E	\	\
    A/-------o------s
    Indicat&points
    of compass
    N. E. S. W.
    10—1810
    108
    driver’s manual
    17.	Was an investigation made by a policeman (civil or mill* tary) ?	......................... If bo, state
    Name	...... No. .........._......
    Precinct or station	.
    18.	Names and addresses of persons other than driver in Government car: ..._____________________________........__________...
    ____________________ .........
    19.	Names and addresses of other witnesses: .............................................................................................................................. ——-------------------------------------------------------------_-.
    fl (Signature of driver)
    I certify that the above report was delivered to me on the ... £.£.______ day of_______--------------------, 1Af£jL^
    at .	_____o’clock
    ______________________________________________________________________________________ (Signature of officer in charge) ........................................... fl	(Official title)
    _£££..<& .......................................
    (Government department or establishment) NOTE.—This report should be attached to report of Investigating Officer.
    U. S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE: I94Z For sale by the Superintendent of Documents; Washington, D. C.

    ftth-wum t *
    UDRA-RY tm w-460
    TECHNICAL MANUAL
    DRIVER’S MANUAL
    Changes)	WAR DEPARTMENT,
    No. 1 I	Washington, March 18, 1943.
    TM 10-460, May 6, 1942, is changed as follows:
    66.	REDUCING STRAIN ON A WINCH RIG.
    *******
    e. Attaching winch rope (Superseded).—There are three methods of attaching winch rope, depending upon equipment available.
    (1)	Attach a chain or rope to the two tow hooks with a spreader bar to divide the pull equally between the two hooks, and attach the winch cable hook as shown in figure 42.
    (2)	If a spreader bar is not available, attach the chain or rope in the following manner: Pass the rope or chain under the bumper bar, up over the side rail, then down under the bumper bar; then attach the rope or chain to the tow hook or to itself (fig. 42%). Steel cable should not be wrapped around the bumper bar, as the cable would be deformed or broken.
    (3)	If neither of the above methods can be followed, the winch cable hook should be attached to one of the tow hooks as shown in figure 42%. Tow the vehicle carefully, especially on slippery terrain, when using this method or when the chain or rope is wrapped around the bumper bar, keeping in mind the “slewing” (one-sided) tendency caused by the off-center pull.
    Note.—Under no circumstances should the winch cable be passed through one tow hook and attached to the other tow hook, because this will damage the hooks, bumper bar, cable, and is dangerous to personnel.
    *******
    [A. G. 062.11 (1-15-43).] (C 1, Mar. 18, 1948.)
    Figubh 42 is rescinded and the following substituted therefor.
    Figure 42.—Rig with spreader bar.
    [A. G. 062.11 (1-15-43).] (C 1, Mar. 18, 1948.)
    Figure 42%.—Rig with chain passed under the bumper bar. [A. G. 062.11 (1-15-43).] (C 1, Mar. 18, 1948.) 514941*—48
    '—SPREADER BAI
    ^—ANCHOR
    RAPD 35589
    ---SNATCH BLOCK
    v— SNATCH BLOCK
    ^—ANCHOR
    TM 10-460 c i
    DRIVER’S MANUAL
    Figure 42%.—Rig without spreader bar. [A. G. 062.11 (1-15-43).] (C 1. Mar. 18, 1943.)
    By order of the Secretary of War :
    Official :
    J. A. ULIO,
    Major General,
    The Adjutant General.
    G. C. MARSHALL, Chief of Staff.
    U. S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE: 1943
    ^—ANCHOR
    RAPD 35551
    y— SNATCH BLOCK
    KEEP YOUR ACCIDENT REPORT AND OPERATOR’S PERMIT IN THIS POCKET
    NTSli

    *1*

    UNT LIBRARIES DENTON TX 76203
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