Installation Instructions, F-Type Front Mounted Fire Pump, Ff-Type Skid Mounted Fire Pump, Self-Contained Unit, Auxiliary Fire Equipment

[Installation Instructions, F-Type Front Mounted Fire Pump, Ff-Type Skid Mounted Fire Pump, Self-Contained Unit, Auxiliary Fire Equipment]
[From the U.S. Government Publishing Office, www.gpo.gov]

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
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F-TYPE FRONT MOUNTED FIRE PUMP
FF-TYPE SKID MOUNTED FIRE PUMP
Self-Contained Unit
★
AUXILIARY FIRE EQUIPMENT
(Prepared in cooperation with the U. S. Office of Civilian Defense and the American-Marsh Pumps Corporation)
OCD Publication 2013
CONTENTS
CHAPTER 1. FRONT MOUNTED PUMP
Paragraph
Section I.	Introduction........................................1-2
Section II.	Tools and Equipment.................................. 3
Section III. Installation of Front Mounted Pump—General Procedure . . .	4-7
Section IV. Installation of Front Mounted Pump—1940 and 1941 Ford Trucks.....................................................   8-10
CHAPTER 3. SKID MOUNTED PUMP (self-contained unit)
Section I. Introduction.......................................  11—12
Section II. Tools and Equipment .................................. 13
Section III. Installation of Skid-Mounted Pump..................14-15
Section IV.	Construction of Fire Hose Body...................... 16
Section V.	Auxiliary Fire Equipment..........................17-19
CHAPTER 1. FRONT MOUNTED PUMP
Paragraph
Section I. Introduction............................................................-...................
Section II. Tools and Equipment........:.................-................•.............-................ 3
Section III. Installation of Front Mounted Pump....................-................................... 4-7
Section IV. Installation of Front Mounted Pump (1940 and 1941 Ford Trucks)............................ 8—10
SECTION I
INTRODUCTION
Paragraph
Purpose and Scope.....................-...... 1
Description..........................    -...- 2
I.	Purpose and Scope,—The material included in this section is intended for the use of the personnel responsible for the installation of the F-type Barton Front Mounted Centrifugal Fire Pump Units. Instructions are also given for the installation of the Darley Front Mounted Centrifugal Fire Pump Units, the “Skid” (or self-contained) Fire Pump Units, and mounting of auxiliary fire equipment.
2,	Description—a. Mounting.—The pump is mounted at the front of the truck, behind the bumper. The pump clutch housing is bolted to a triangular pump bracket which is attached by supporting brackets to a tubular cross member. This cross member in turn is supported by two side brackets mounted on the chassis frame.
b.	Power Take-off.—Each pump is furnished with a power take-off of suitable design for the particular make and model of truck on which the pump is to be mounted.
c.	Floating Shaft.—The drive from the engine crankshaft to the pump is accomplished by a floating shaft which has a jaw type connection mounted on each end. Each jaw is keyed and pinned to the floating shaft. The jaws on the floating shaft mesh with the pump jaw and with a jaw mounted on the crankshaft.
d.	Pump Clutch.—Incorporated in the pump is a combination disc friction and jaw clutch, the driving part of which is meshed with the jaws on the floating shaft. Hereafter the jaw clutch will be referred to as the jaw.
e.	Pump Primer.—Mounted under the engine hood on the cowling and connected to the pump by hose is an automatic primer. The primer also connects to the intake manifold by hose. The vacuum created in the engine intake manifold makes the pump self-priming.
/. Cranking Assembly.—A cranking assembly is furnished which, when inserted in the pump suction, can be used to rotate the engine crankshaft.
g.	Cooling Connections.—The necessary hose and fittings used for connecting the pump casing to the water pump are furnished complete. Two water cooling lines with fittings are supplied when the pump is to be used
with a “V”-type engine, such as the Ford V—8. A valve to control the quantity of cooling water to the pump water jacket is attached to the side of the Siamese valve body.
h.	Gages.—The pump is equipped with two gages, both of which are furnished with a shut-off cock:
(1)	Pressure Gage.—Calibrated from zero (0) to three hundred (300) pounds, mounted on the periphery of the pump case.
(2)	Combination Vacuum Pressure Gage.—Calibrated from thirty (30) to zero (0) to one hundred and fifty (150) pounds, mounted on the pump suction inlet.
i.	Pump Pressure Plate.—The plate is furnished separate for mounting on either the pump or on the truck body. This plate carries information such as pump pressures to be used with various size nozzle tips and lengths of hose.
j.	Throttle Control.—A throttle control of the type that will hold its set position is furnished with the pump. The pump operator can control the speed of the engine from the front of the chassis.
SECTION II
TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT
Paragraph
Tools and Equipment......................... 3
3. Tools and Equipment,—a. Since the bolts, nuts, and other pump installation attaching parts vary between different make and model trucks, no attempt has been made to specify the exact wrench size for each installation operation. All special equipment is mentioned in the particular operation to which it applies.
b. The following is a list of all tools and equipment normally required to install the pump. Time will be saved by obtaining each item of equipment before proceeding with the installation of the pump :
WRENCHES
Open end: Complete set, ^-inch to 1-inch
Socket: Complete set, %-inch to I %-inch
Ratchet handle
Flexible L handle
Extension
Speed handle
Other types:
Adjustable wrench
Pipe wrench
Allen wrench set
TOOLS
Rotary hacksaw (Holesaw)
Electric hand drill—%-inch chuck
Tapered reamer—No. 5 and No.
7 tapered pin
Prick punch
Scribe
Hacksaw
Drift
Pliers
Soft-jawed vise
Case knife
Spirit level
Steel scale
2
ADDITIONAL EQUIPMENT
Electric welding equipment
Soldering equipment
Chain hoist
TOOLS
Crowbar
Screw driver—various sizes
Tin snips
Chisel—cold and wood
Gear puller
Hammer
Soft hammer
Tap—by 28 SAE thread
SECTION III
INSTALLATION OF FRONT MOUNTED PUMP
(GENERAL PROCEDURE)
Paragraph
Truck Make and Models...........—.................... 4
General.........................-.................... 5
Operations Preceding Pump Installation............... 6
Installation of Pump.................*-.............. 7
4.	Truck Make and Models,—The following is a list of the make and model trucks for which general installation procedure is outlined in paragraphs 6 and 7.
CHEVROLET	FORD	DODGE
1937		1937
1938	1938	1938
1939	1939	1939
1940		1940
1941		1941
1942	1942	1942
5,	General,—a. Engine and sheet metal cowling characteristics of the trucks listed in paragraph 4 are such that the installation of the front mounted pump is quite similar in each case. Necessarily, there are some small differences in each installation, due to the variations in truck design. These differences are covered throughout this manual at the point in the installation procedure where each difference applies.
b.	The importance of obtaining an intelligent, highgrade mechanic to install the pump cannot be overemphasized. Specific details regarding the mounting of the pump bracket and side brackets, and the alinement of the pump floating shaft, must be strictly followed in order to insure the most efficient operation of the front mounted pump.
c.	Major differences in- the design of 1940 and 1941 Ford trucks are such that it has been considered necessary to include a section (section IV) on the installation of the pump devoted entirely to these two trucks. Wherever the installation procedure is identical, a reference is made to the general installation procedure outlined in section III.
6,	Operations Preceding Pump Installation,—Before the pump can be installed, it is necessary to remove all parts of the truck that will interfere with the installation of the pump. These will vary, depending on the yearly make and model of the truck on which the pump is to be installed. A brief outline of the parts to be removed from the various trucks follows:
ALL TRUCKS
1.	Drain radiator.
2.	Remove bumper face bar.
3.	Disconnect radiator inlet and outlet water hose.
CHEVROLET
1.	Remove hood assembly.
2.	Disconnect sheet metal cowling to frame wiring harness.
3.	Remove radiator tie rod.
4.	Remove fenders and radiator core and grille as an assembly.
5.	Remove bumper back bars.
6.	Remove splash pan.
FORD
1.	Remove radiator grille.
2.	Remove radiator core and core support.
3.	Remove splash pan.
4.	Remove hood assembly on 1938 and 1939 trucks.
5.	Remove bumper back bars.
DODGE
1.	Remove hood assembly.
2.	Remove radiator grille.
3.	Remove radiator core and core support.
4.	Remove splash pan.
Figure I.—1942 Chevrolet truck disassembled for pump installation
7.	Installation of Pump,—Note: The numbers in parentheses, shown after various parts, serve to identify the parts in figure 2.
a.	Remove Fan Belt and Pulley.—(1) Loosen the nut or nuts which hold the fan belt adjustment bracket. Relieve the tension on the fan belt, and lift off the fan belt.
(2) Using a gear puller, remove the fan pulley (12) and engine cranking jaw from the crankshaft.
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Figure 2.—Pump assembly—1942 Chevrolet truck
1.	Primer assembly.
2.	Primer intake hose.
3.	Primer drain hose.
4.	Throttle control.
5.	Primer control.
6.	Primer pump hose.
7.	Throttle control bracket.
8.	Throttle control wire bracket.
9.	Throttle accelerator rod.
10.	Dowel pin.
11.	Crankshaft jaw.
12.	Fan pulley.
13.	Driven jaw.
14.	Floating shaft.
15.	Driving jaw.
16.	Floating shaft spring.
17.	Cooling connections.
18.	Cooling hose.
19.	Allen set screw.
20.	Pump bracket brace.
21.	Side bracket.
22.	Cross member.
23.	Pump bracket.
24.	Clutch housing.
25.	Front pump support.
26.	Front mounted pump.
b.	Tighten the Engine Mounting Bolts.— (1) Tighten the engine mounting bolts as tightly as possible.
(2)	Replace engine mounting pads on all Ford trucks (refer to section IV, paragraph 10 (d)).
c.	Install Crankshaft Jaw.— (1) Place the crankshaft jaw (11) in position on the crankshaft and drive to seat, using a lead hammer. Make sure the slot in the jaw lines up with the Woodruff key in the crankshaft. Note : On all Ford trucks, remove the Woodruff key in the crankshaft, since there is no keyway provided in the crankshaft jaw. Make certain, when installing the crankshaft jaw on the Ford crankshaft, that the end of the timing gear key engages the slot in the hub of the crankshaft jaw.
(2)	Using an electric hand drill, drill a hole through
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the crankshaft jaw and crankshaft for a number 5 tapered dowel pin (fig. 3). To facilitate drilling the mounted jaw, insert a wood board through the handle of the drill to increase the leverage. Note: On all Ford trucks, drill for a number 7 taper pin.
(3)	Ream out the drilled hole and install the proper tapered dowel pin (10).
d.	Install Fan Pulley and Fan Belt.—Slide the fan pulley (12) on the crankshaft jaw (11). Make sure the slot in the hub of the pulley is lined up with the Woodruff key in the crankshaft jaw. Tighten the Allen set screw in the hub of the pulley. Install the fan belt and tighten all adjusting screws.
e.	Install Primer Assembly (fig. 4).—Note: The following procedure is applicable only to Chevrolet and
Dodge trucks. All Ford trucks have the primer mounted in a different manner, covered in section IV, paragraph 10 g.
(1)	Drill and tap the intake manifold for a standard ^.-inch nipple. Install the standard %-inch nipple furnished. Care must be exercised to keep drillings out of the manifold. Note: On Dodge trucks, remove the windshield wiper connection in the intake manifold and install a %-inch tee fitting. Use one outlet for the windshield wiper and the other for the primer intake hose.
(2)	Lift the primer assembly (1) into position at the left side of the cowling. The extreme top of the primer should be about two inches beneath the top cowling hood lacing, so that the primer will not interfere with the closing of the hood.
(3)	Punch mark the cowling through the three holes in the primer brackets. Remove the primer.
(4)	Using an electric hand drill, drill %-inch holes through the cowling at the points marked.
PRIMER	PRIMER CONTROL	PRIMER
INTAKE HOSE	RETURN SPRING	ASSEMBLY
PRIMER INTAKE	PRIMER DRAIN PRIMER PUMP
HOSE NIPPLE	HOSE	HOSE NIPPLE
Figure 4.—Primer installation—1942 Chevrolet truck
Figure 3.—Drilling crankshaft jaw
(5)	Lift the primer assembly (1) into position, and install bolts and nuts.
(6)	Install the assembled primer intake manifold fittings on all 14-inch nipple in the intake manifold. Cut a length of hose (2) which will reach from the fittings to the primer. Install hose clamps on the hose and then place the hose in position. Tighten the clamp screws.
(7)	Cut a length of hose 12 inches long to use as a primer drain. Place a hose clamp on one end of the hose and install the hose (3) on the nipple in the elbow at the bottom of the primer. Care should be taken to keep drillings out of intake manifold.
(8)	Drill a %-inch hole in the cowling directly opposite the bracket to which the primer control return spring is attached. Install a cotter pin through the hole in the cowling. Hook the return spring to the bracket on the primer rod, and to the cotter pin inserted in the cowling (see fig. 4).
/. Install Pump Bracket Assembly.—Note: It is Extremely important in the following operation that the cross member side brackets (21) be located exactly, in relation to the chassis frame. All side brackets should be mounted as close to, or projecting about % inch over, the inner edge of’the chassis frame. This will eliminate, in many cases, the necessity of cutting out or bending engine aprons with which the side bracket might interfere. A chart providing the information necessary to locate the position of the side brackets for the various make and yearly model trucks, follows:
POSITION OF SIDE BRACKETS ON FORD TRUCKS
1938 and 1939 models—forward end of side brackets should be exactly % inch from end of chassis frame.
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BUMPER WELD FRONT PUMP CROSS DRIVING SIDE FACE BAR MARK SUPPORT MEMBER CLUTCH BRACKET
Figure 5.—Installation of pump bracket assembly—1942 Dodge truck
1942 model—cut first rivet from end of chassis frame. Use rivet hole as guide for side bracket bolts (see fig- 6).
POSITION OF SIDE BRACKETS ON CHEVROLET TRUCKS
1937,1938,1939, and 1940 models—cut second rivet from end of chassis frame. Use rivet hole as guide for side bracket bolts. Drill hole for ^-inch bolt.
1941 and 1942 models—place the side brackets over the first rivet in the end of the chassis frame. The sunken hole in the side brackets should fit down on the head of the rivet (see fig. 8).
POSITION OF SIDE BRACKETS ON DODGE TRUCKS
19.37 and 1938 models—forward end of side bracket should be exactly 1 inches from end of chassis frame.
1939, 1940, 1941, and 1942 models—forward end of side bracket should be exactly 12% inches from end of chassis frame (see fig. 5).
(1)	Place the pump bracket (23), with assembled cross member (22) and side brackets (21) in position on the chassis frame. Locate the side bracket according to the instructions in the above chart. Tighten the Allen set screws (19) which hold the side brackets to the cross member. With a sharp-edged tool, mark the frame through the bolt holes in the side brackets. Remove the assembly.
(2)	Drill through each end of the chassis frame for a ^2-inch bolt. Note: On some make and model trucks, it is necessary only to drill through the upper flange of the chassis frame. Others will require drilling through both the upper and lower flanges. Examine the side bracket bolts furnished with the pump package to determine the procedure in each individual case.
(3)	Place the pump bracket assembly in position and install side bracket bolts, nuts, and lock washers.
g.	Install Pump Bracket Brace.— Note: The design of the pump bracket brace (20) and the method of mounting vary with the make and model truck on which the brace is to be installed. The installation procedure outlined in this step is indicated for each make and model truck.
INSTALLATION OF PUMP BRACKET BRACE ON FORD TRUCKS-
1938 AND 1939
(1)	Remove the nut on the end of the pump bracket brace.
(2)	Remove the nut on the front spring “U” bolt which is directly
opposite the brace hole in the pump bracket.
(3)	Insert the brace at the threaded end through the pump bracket, and on the opposite end on the front spring “U” bolt. Install a nut on the “U” bolt, and one on the brace.
INSTALLATION OF PUMP BRACKET BRACE ON FORD TRUCKS—1942
AND CHEVROLET TRUCKS—1937 THROUGH 1942
(1)	Remove the nut on each end of the pump bracket brace. Slide one end of the brace into the pump bracket. Now slide the brace back toward the truck until it touches the frame front cross member. Mark the point on the cross member where the brace touches. Remove
the brace. Then rotate the pump bracket upward out of the way and drill an i%6-inch hole through the frame front cross member at the point marked.
(2)	Rotate the pump bracket downward to a vertical position, and slide the brace into the bracket and into the cross member. Install the outer nuts and lock washers on each end of the brace (see fig. 8).
INSTALLATION OF PUMP BRACKET BRACE ON DODGE TRUCKS—1937 THROUGH 1942
Note : The front frame cross member on Dodge trucks is box construction. The pump brace furnished for Dodge trucks has a hook on one end designed to hook into a drilled hole in the cross member, and held in place by an outside lock nut on the brace.
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(1)	Remove the nut on the plain end of the pump bracket brace (20). Slide this eiid of the brace into the pump bracket (23). Now slide the brace back toward the truck until it touches the frame front cross member. Mark the point where the brace touches. Remove the brace. Rotate the pump bracket upward out of the way. Now, drill an i^g-inch hole through the frame front cross member at the point marked.
(2)	Rotate the pump bracket downward to a vertical position. Hook the hooked end of the brace into the cross member, then slide the opposite end of the brace into the pump bracket (23). Tighten the lock nut on the brace at the cross member. Install the nut on the outer end of the brace (see fig. 5).
h.	Aline Floating Shaft (fig. 6).—(1) Test the horizontal position of the cross member by placing a hydraulic level on the top of the cross member (22). If the floor is level and tires are properly inflated, the cross member should be level. If the cross member is not level, place a jack under the low side of the chassis frame and raise the frame until the cross member is, level.
(2)	Place the floating shaft (14), with driving clutch (15) attached, through the pump bracket (23) and in mesh with the crankshaft clutch (11).
(3)	- Slide the alinement bushing over the protruding end of the floating shaft (14) and partly into the pump bracket (23).
(4)	Now manipulate the pump bracket in its slots on the support brackets, and the support brackets on the cross member (22), until the bushing turns freely in the pump bracket. Be careful to hold the driven jaw on the shaft tightly in mesh with the crankshaft jaw at all times. Note: Place a level on the pump bracket from time to time to make sure the pump bracket is level with the cross member. This will insure an upright position of the front mounted pump (26), in relation to the truck, after it is mounted.
(5)	When the shaft is perfectly alined, tighten the Allen set screws (19) which hold the support brackets to the cross member (22), then tighten the bolts which hold the pump bracket (23) to the support brackets. Tighten the nuts and lock nuts on the pump bracket brace (20). Continue to test the looseness of the alinement bushing on the floating shaft (14) at frequent intervals to make sure the tightening of the bolts and set screws has not affected the alinement of the floating shaft.
(6)	Drill holes for a number 5 tapered dowel pin through the side brackets and chassis frame, through the
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side brackets and cross member, through the support brackets and cross member and through the pump bracket and support brackets.
(7)	Ream out each hole and install a number 5 tapered dowel pin through the holes.
i.	Measure Floating Shaft Length (fig. 7).—(1) Remove the alinement bushing from the shaft. Place a steel scale across two of the machined facings of the pump bracket against the side of the floating shaft.
(2)	Hold the shaft firmly in place, and mark the shaft with a sharp pointed tool at the point touched by the scale. Caution: Mark the shaft at the inner edge of the scale; otherwise, the width of the scale will be added to the length of the shaft.
(3)	Remove the shaft from the bracket and place in a soft-jawed vise. Locate the mark on the shaft, then measure back %6 inch (to shorten shaft further) and cut the shaft with a hack saw. Note: The shaft is cut %6 inch shorter than the machined facings of the pump bracket so that when the driven jaw is mounted, the shaft will not project beyond the jaws of the clutch.
(4)	Drive the driven jaw (13) on the end of the shaft. The cut or pilot end of the shaft should be y8 inch from the end of the clutch jaws on the inside of the clutch. Tighten the set screw in the side of the jaw.
j.	Test Floating Shaft End Play (fig. 8).—(1) Slide, the floating shaft, with assembled jaws, through the pump bracket so that the driven jaw (13) is in mesh with the crankshaft jaw (11).
(2)	Wrap loose rope around the pump Siamese and beneath the nipples. Attach a chain hoist to the loose rope and lift the pump up and into position. Slide the pump forward so that the clutch housing (24) is in line with the pump bracket (23), and the pump jaw meshes with the driving jaw (15) on the floating shaft (14).
[(3	) Install pump bracket cap screws. Pull the cap screws up tightly.
(4)	Pull the floating shaft (14) back toward the pump so that the driving jaw and pump jaw are held tightly together. Now observe the clearance between the jaws of the driven jaw (13) and crankshaft jaw (11). There should be a clearance of from %2 inch to %6 inch.
(5)	If the clearance is greater than inch, loosen the Allen set screw in the side of the driven jaw (13) (fig. 8), and tap the jaw slightly toward the engine.
(6)	If the clearance is less than %6 inch, loosen the Allen set screw in the side of the driven jaw (13), insert a screw driver between the jaws, and tap the jaw slightly toward the pump. Tighten the Allen set screw in the side of the jaw, and again test the end play.
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(7)	When the correct end play adjustment has been obtained, tighten the Allen set screw in the side of the driven jaw securely. Remove pump bracket cap screws and lift off the pump (26). Lift out the floating shaft with assembled jaws.
(8)	Place the floating shaft in a soft-jawed vise. Using a hand electric drill, drill through the driven jaw and floating shaft for a number 5 tapered dowel pin. Ream out the hole to the proper size, and install a number 5 tapered dowel pin.
k. Install Cooling Connections.— Note: The assembled cooling connections (17) furnished with each pump package will vary, depending on the make and model truck on which the pump is to be installed. The installation procedure in this step is outlined for each make and model truck. Make sure when installing the check valve that it is in the proper position, so that water will flow toward the engine water pump.
INSTALLATION OF COOLING CONNECTIONS ON CHEVROLET TRUCKS (Fig. 2)
(1)	Remove the standard %-inch
plug which is screwed into the water pump just above the water outlet hose connection at the right side of the engine.
(2)	Install the assembled cooling connections (17). Make certain the check valve in the connections is in a horizontal and upright position.
(3)	Cut a 20-inch length of hose (18). Place hose clamps on the hose and install the hose on the nipple of the assembled connections. Tighten clamp screws.
INSTALLATION OF COOLING CONNECTIONS ON FORD TRUCKS (Fig. 3)
(1)	Remove the pet cocks at the bottom of each water pump.
(2)	Install the assembled cooling connections. Make certain the check valve is in a horizontal and upright position.
(3)	Install the pet cocks, just removed from the water pumps, in the open end of the tee fitting at the bottom of the cooling connections.
(4)	Cut two lengths of hose (fig. 14 (10)), one 16 inches long and the other 22% inches long. Place hose clamps on the hose and install a hose on each of the
Figure 8.—Testing floating shaft end play
cooling connections (short hose on right-hand cooling connection) in the bottom of the water pump.
INSTALLATION OF COOLING CONNECTIONS ON DODGE TRUCKS
(1)	Using a hand electric drill, drill a hole in the water pump for a standard %-inch nipple. (Drill just above (about 1 inch) the hose connection located at the
bottom, of the radiator core.)
[(2	) Tap the hole for a standard %-inch hose nipple.
(3)	Install the assembled cooling connections (17). Make certain the check valve in the connections is in a horizontal and upright position.
(4)	Cut a 20-inch length of hose (18). Place hose clamps on the hose and install the hose on the nipple of the assembled connections. Tighten clamp screws.
I.	Install Auxiliary Overflow Pipe (fig. 9).— (1) Using a hand electric drill, drill a 1^-inch hole through the right side of the radiator filler neck.
(2	) Bend the overflow pipe tubing into shape. It should curve smoothly around the side of the radiator
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PRIMER CONTROL AUXILIARY OPENING OVERFLOW PIPE
RADIATOR
CORE SUPPORT
Figure 9.—Location of holes for pump hose and control connections
core (or core support) and extend down beneath the engine splash pan.
(3)	Place the overflow pipe in position and solder the upper end of the pipe into the drilled hole in the side of the filler neck. Spot-solder the pipe along its length to hold it firmly in position. Note : On some trucks the radiator core support interferes with the passage of the auxiliary overflow pipe down the side of the radiator core. If this should occur, drill a ^-inch hole down through the radiator core support to permit the passage of the auxiliary overflow pipe.
m.	Cut Pump Hose and Control Connection Openings.—-(1) The primer pump hose (6), cooling connection hose (18), and the primer control (5) must pass around the radiator core and out through the radiator grille. On most trucks, it is necessary to cut openings through -the radiator core support to permit the passage of the hoses and primer control.
(2)	Using a rotary hacksaw (Holesaw), cut two 1^-inch openings through the radiator core support at the points indicated in figure 9. These are for the primer pump hose (6) and cooling hose (18).
(3)	Using an electric hand drill, drill a %-inch hole through the radiator core support for the primer control (6) (see fig. 9). The hole should be on the side of the engine on which the primer is mounted, and in a relative parallel position to the primer control bracket on the primer rod. *
n.	Relocate Radiator Drain Pet Cock (1937 and 1938 Chevrolet trucks only).—Note: With the shipment of fire pump equipment wherein installation of the pump is made clearer by a blueprint drawing, a blueprint is included with the shipment.
(1)	1937 Chevrolet—remove pet cock at bottom front of radiator core. Install a %-inch street elbow so that the female end of the elbow faces downward and backward. Install the pet cock in the street elbow (refer to blueprint).
(2)	1938 Chevrolet—remove pet cock at bottom front of radiator core. Saw off the radiator core drain at the core (hacksaw). Place a covering plate over the drain opening and solder in position. Install the original pet cock in the bottom outlet at the back of the radiator core (refer to blueprint).
o.	Relocate Radiator Core.—(1) On 1942 Ford trucks, and on all Chevrolet trucks equipped with a standard engine, it is necessary to raise the radiator core % inch to permit the installation of the pump floating shaft. Note: This operation is not necessary on Chevrolet trucks that have a “Hi-Tork” engine.
(2)	Remove the radiator core from the radiator core support.
(3)	Drill new holes in the radiator core support, % of an inch beneath the original holes in the support. Install the radiator core in its new position in the radiator core support.
p.	Cut Out Splash Pan (Chevrolet trucks only).— (1) On all Chevrolet trucks which have a splash pan mounted between the radiator grille and core, it is necessary to cut out the center section of the splash pan. On all other trucks, the splash pan is removed when the unit is disassembled for pump installation, and is not used when the unit is assembled and installed.
(2)	Using tin snips, cut out the center section of the splash pan. The section removed should equal the distance between the outer edges of the pump side brackets.
[(3) Install the two outer pieces of the splash pan in their original positions (see fig. 10).
q.	Install Radiator Core and Grille.—(1) Place the radiator grille and core in position, and install all nuts, bolts, and other attaching devices which were removed. (Install fenders, radiator core, and radiator grille as an assembly on Chevrolet trucks.)
(2	) Examine the position of the fan in the fan shroud. On trucks which have had the radiator core raised, it may be necessary to cut away a portion of the lower edge of the fan shroud so that the fan will not touch the shroud.
(3	) Connect the water inlet and outlet hoses at top and bottom of radiator core. Tighten all clamp screws tightly.
r.	Cut Out Radiator Grille (figs. 10,11, and 12).—(1) In order to mount the pump (26) on the pump bracket (23) and to facilitate pump operation, it will be necessary to cut away a portion of the radiator grille. The
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construction and design of the grille between trucks vary considerably, but most grilles should be cut similarly to the accepted design shown in figures 10, 11, and 12.
(2	) Take care not to mutilate the grille, and leave as much as possible in place. Bind all edges neatly with sheet metal and install attaching screws.
s.	Install Front Mounted Pump.—(1) Wrap loose rope around the pump Siamese and beneath the nipples. Attach a chain hoist to the loose rope and lift the pump up and into position (see fig. 10).
(2)	Slide the pump forward so that the pump clutch housing (24) is in line with the pump bracket (23). Slip the floating shaft spring (16) in between the pump clutch and driving clutch (15), mesh the two clutches, and install the pump bracket cap screws. Pull the screws up tightly. Caution: Do not overlook the floating shaft spring. Its duty is to maintain tension on the floating shaft (14) and thus prevent rattle of the shaft while the truck or pump is in operation (see figs. 2 and 10).
Figure 10.—Pump installation—1942 Chevrolet truck
t.	Install Pump Primer Hose and Cooling Hose.
INSTALLATION OF PUMP PRIMER HOSE AND COOLING HOSE ON CHEVROLET AND , DODGE
TRUCKS (Figs. 2 and 12)
(1)	Cut a length of hose (6) 52 inches long. Place hose clamps on the hose and install the hose at one end on the pump primer hose nipple at the bottom of the primer (1). Thread the hose through the cut opening in the side of the radiator core support, and install the outer end of the hose on the nipple at the front center of the pupip (26). Tighten clamp screws.
(2)	Thread the unattached end of the cooling hose (18) through the opening in the side of the radiator core support. Place a hose clamp on the end of the hose, and install the hose on the nipple inserted in the shut-off valve at the back of the pump. Tighten the clamp screw.
INSTALLATION OF PUMP PRIMER HOSE AND COOLING
HOSE ON FORD TRUCKS (Figs. 3, II, and 14)
(1)	Pull the two unattached ends of the cooling hose out beneath the radiator core and up in front of the core. Place hose clamps on the ends of the hose and install the
hoses on the two assembled tee fittings atid drain cock. Tighten clamp screws.
(2)	Cut a short length of hose (fig. 14 (10) ) which will reach from the outer tee fitting and drain cock up to the nipple on the shut-off valve at the back of the pump. Place hose clamps on the hose, and install the hose on the nipples. Tighten clamp screws.
u.	Install Throttle Control Brackets.
INSTALLATION OF THROTTLE CONTROL BRACKETS ON CHEVROLET AND DODGE TRUCKS (Fig. 2)
r(l ) Remove the cylinder head stud nut nearest to the carburetor. Place the throttle bracket (7) on the stud, and install the nut.
(2)	Remove the throttle accelerator rod. Slide the small throttle control wire bracket (8) on the rod, and solder the bracket firmly in position.
INSTALLATION OF THROTTLE CONTROL BRACKETS ON FORD TRUCKS (Figs. 14 and 16)
(1)	Remove the two cylinder head stud nuts at the top and inner end of the right-hand bank of cylinders.
11
Place the throttle bracket (fig. 14 (23)) on the studs, and install nuts.
(2)	Remove the throttle accelerator rod. Slide the small throttle control wire bracket (fig. 14 (21)) on the rod, and solder the bracket firmly in position.
v.	Install Throttle Control (figs. 2, 10, 11, and 12).— (1) Using a hand electric drill, drill a ^-inch hole through the left fender next to the radiator grille and parallel with the neck of the front mounted pump.
(2) Remove the nut and flat washer from the throttle control. Slide the end of the throttle control wire and casing through the drilled hole. Slip the flat washer and nut over the casing. Thread the casing and wire up through the engine apron, across the top of the cowling and through the throttle bracket (fig. 2 (7)). Tighten the throttle bracket screws to hold the casing in the bracket. Slip the throttle control wire through the small soldered bracket (fig. 2 (8)) on the throttle accelerator rod (fig. 2 (9)), and install the wire stop on the wire. Now screw the nut and flat washer on the inner side of the throttle control handle at the fender.
w.	Install Primer Control (figs. 2, 9,10,11, and 12).— (1) The primer control (fig. 2 (5)) is always mounted on the same side of the engine as the primer assembly, in a horizontal position.
(2)	On most trucks, the drilled hole in the radiator core support for the primer control will provide sufficient
Figure 12.—Pump installation—1942 Dodge truck
mounting for the control. However, on the 1942 Chevrolet, to obtain a rigid mounting, it is necessary to install a small bracket on the inner side of the lower left screw which holds the upper grille to the radiator shell.
(3)	Loosen the Alien set &rew which holds the primer control handle to the control. Unscrew the handle. Slide the primer control through the drilled hole and out through the radiator grille. Slip the inner end of the primer control into the primer control bracket on the primer rod, and install the flat washer and cotter pin. Screw the handle on the outer end of the control, and tighten the Allen set screw which holds the handle in place.
x.	Install Front Pump Support and Bumper Assembly.
INSTALLATION OF FRONT PUMP SUPPORT AND BUMPER ASSEMBLY ON CHEVROLET AND FORD
TRUCKS (Figs. 2 and 11)
(1)	For Ford and Chevrolet trucks, new bumper back bars are furnished with the pump which extend the bumper out from the truck and provide clearance for the front mounted pump.
(2)	Tn stall the new bumper back bars on the bumper face bar, using the bolts which were removed with the original back bars.
(3)	Unscrew the nut on the stud in the bottom front of the pump. Place the front pump support bracket on the stud and install the nut on the stud.
12
(4)	Lift the bumper assembly, with the front pump support (fig. 2 (25)), into position and install bolts and nuts. (The same bolts and nuts which hold the bumper back bars to the chassis frame hold the front pump support to the frame.
(5)	Mark the front pump support (fig. 2 (25)) through the two holes in the front pump support bracket. Drill holes for 1^-inch bolts through the front pump support at the points marked. Install bolts, nuts, and lock washers.
(6)	Tighten the nut on the stud which holds the front pump support bracket until the bracket just supports the weight of the pump. Do not tighten the nut so tightly that the pump is pulled out of alinement.
INSTALLATION OF FRONT PUMP SUPPORT AND DUMPER ASSEMBLY ON DODGE TRUCKS (Figs. 5 and 12)
(1)	For Dodge trucks, new channel frame extensions are furnished with the pu^ip which extend the bumper out from the truck and provide clearance for the front mounted pump.
(2)	Using electric welding equipment, weld the channel frame extensions to each end of the channel frame.
(3)	Unscrew the nut on the stud in the bottom front of the pump. Place the front pump support bracket on the stud and install the nut on the stud.
(4)	Place the angle iron front pump support across and beneath the channel frame extensions, lining up the support with the front pump support bracket.
(5)	Mark the front pump support through the holes in the bracket, and at the center of each frame extension. Remove the support, then drill holes for ^-inch bolts through the support at the points marked. Place the support in position, and install bolts, nuts, and lock washers. Do not tighten the nut on the stud which holds the front pump support bracket so tightly that the pump is pulled out of alinement.
(6)	Place the bumper face bar in position on the channel frame extensions, and install bolts, nuts, and lock washers.
(7)	Using a cutting torch, cut a semicircular piece out of the bumper face bar to permit access to the pump draft. Bend a piece of strip steel to the shape of the semicircle and weld in place (electric welding equipment).
SECTION IV
INSTALLATION OF FRONT MOUNTED PUMP
1940 AND 1941 FORD TRUCKS
Paragraph
General.................................................. 8
Operations Preceding Pump Installation................... 9
Installation of Pump..............................'..... 10
9.	General.—Differing from all other makes of trucks, the 1940 and 1941 Ford trucks have the fan assembly mounted directly on the crankshaft. In addition, the radiator core is set low in front of the engine, so that it becomes necessary to drive the pump floating shaft through the radiator core. Due to these differences
in design, the procedure involved in mounting the front mounted pump on the 1940 and 1941 Ford trucks is different than on all other trucks. In paragraphs 9 and 10 these installation differences are discussed in detail. Wherever the mounting procedure agrees with the general procedure outlined in section III, a reference is made.
9.	Operations Preceding Pump Installation.—a. Drain Radiator.—Open pet cock at bottom center of radiator core and drain radiator.
b.	Remove and Disassemble Bumper Assembly.— (1) Remove the bolts which hold the back bars of the bumper assembly to the chassis frame. Lift off the bumper assembly.
(2)	Remove the bolts which hold the bumper back bars to the bumper face bar. Lift off the bumper back bars.
c.	Remove Splash Pan.—Remove the bolts beneath the radiator grille and beneath the front frame cross member which hold the splash pan. Lift off the splash pan.
d.	Remove Radiator Grille.—Remove bolts which hold the grille at each side to the fenders. Lift off radiator grille.
e.	Remove Radiator Core.— (1) Loosen hose clamps on the two upper radiator inlet hose connections, and on the two lower radiator outlet hose connections.
(2)	Remove the anchor bolts which hold the radiator core support to the frame. Using a wrench to hold the bolt head and another to turn the bolt nut, remove the anchor bolts.
(3)	Pry the radiator hose connections off the radiator core and lift out the core. Lift off the two rubber shims which act as vibration insulators between the radiator core support and the frame.
13
Figure 14.—Pump assembly—1940 Ford truck
1.	Front mounted pump.
2.	Front pump support.
3.	Throttle control.
4.	Clutch housing.
5.	Side bracket.
6.	Pump bracket.
7.	Support bracket.
8.	Cross member.
9.	Lower cross member.
10.	Cooling hose.
11.	Cooling connections.
12.	Cooling line drain.
13.	Floating shaft spring.
14.	Driving jaw.
15.	Floating shaft.
16.	Driven jaw.
17.	Crankshaft jaw.
18.	Fan assembly.
19.	Primer control.
20.	Primer pump hose.
21.	Throttle control wire bracket.
22.	Throttle accelerator rod.
23.	Throttle control bracket.
24.	Primer assembly.
25.	Primer drain hose.
26.	Primer intake hose.
27.	Primer bracket.
28.	Pump bracket brace.
IO. Installation of Pump.—Note: The numbers in parentheses, shown after various parts, serve to identify the parts in figure 14.
a.	Remove Fan Assembly.—Remove the cap screws which hold the fan hub to the crankshaft pulley flange. Slide off the fan assembly (18).	'
b.	Remove Cranking Jaw.—Unscrew the cranking jaw from the end of the crankshaft.
c.	Install Stub-Shaft.—Using a lead hammer, place the stub-shaft in position and drive to seat in the crankshaft pulley hub.
d.	Install Metal Engine Pads (fig. 15).—(1) Remove the two front engine mounting bolts.
(2)	Insert a crowbar above the front frame cross member and beneath the engine pan.
(3)	Pry up engine slightly and slip the rubber engine mounting pad out from under the engine support. Slide the metal engine mounting pad in place.
(4)	Repeat the operation (2) and (3) to install the opposite front engine mounting pad.
(5)	Install the front engine mounting bolts.
(6)	Using a hand electric drill, drill a hole through the engine support, engine mounting pad, and chassis frame for a number 5 tapered dowel pin.
(7)	Ream out the hole and install a number 5 tapered dowel pin.
14
(8)	Repeat the operation (6) and (7) on the opposite engine mounting pad. «
e.	Drill and Dowel Stub-Shaft and Crankshaft (fig. 17).—(1) Using an electric hand drill, drill a -hole through the hub of the crankshaft pulley and through the crankshaft for a number 5 tapered dowel pin (see fig. 3).
(2)	Using the same tools, drill a similar size hole through the crankshaft pulley hub and through the stub-shaft.
(3)	Ream out both holes for a number 5 tapered dowel pin.
(4)	Tap a tapered dowel pin through each hole.
/. Install Cooling Connections (fig. 14).— (1) Remove drain cock at bottom of water pump on the left side of the engine block.
ENGINE FRONT
STUB SHAFT	SUPPORT
CROWBAR FRAME FRONT	ENGINE
CROSS MEMBER MOUNTING PAD
Figure 15.—Installing metal engine pads
PRIMER PRIMER PRIMER ASSEMBLY
ASSEMBLY INTAKE HOSE BRACKET
THROTTLE CONTROL THROTTLE PRIMER INTAKE WIRE BRACKET CONTROL BRACKET HOSE NIPPLE
Figure 16.—Marking cowling for primer installation
(2)	Insert the nipple and tee-fitting assembly into the tapped hole from which the drain cock was removed.
(3)	Insert the drain cock into the lower opening of the tee-fitting.
(4)	Insert the long nipple with assembled elbow into the upper end of the tee-fitting.
(5)	Insert check valve assembly with short threaded nipple and long plain nipple into the elbow just installed. Note: The check valve should be horizontal and in an upright position. Make sure the valve is in the proper position so that water will flow toward the engine water pump.
(6)	Repeat the operation (steps (1) to (5) above) to install the cooling connection (11) on the right side of the engine block. Note : To permit easy installation of the cooling connections, loosen the clamp screw on the water pump inlet hose connection and remove the hose assembly.
g.	Install Primer Assembly (figs. 14 and 16).— (1) Loosen the screws which hold the air cleaner in place and remove the air cleaner.
(2)	Measure 1% inches back from the base of the carburetor on the intake manifold, then drill and tap a hole for a standard %-inch pipe nipple. Note: It may be necessary to remove the carburetor in order to drill the hole.
(3)	Install the %-inch hose nipple (plain on one end).
(4)	Lift the primer assembly (24) into position at the right side of the cowling above the battery. The extreme top of the primer should be 2 inches beneath the top cowling hood lacing, so that the primer will not interfere with the closing of the hood. The primer hose drain (25) at the bottom of the primer assembly should just clear the inner side of the battery.
15
(5)	Mark the cowling through the three holes in the bracket (27) attached to the primer, and also through the one hole in the bracket cast in the primer (see fig. 16). Remove the primer.
(6)	Using a small electric hand drill, drill holes for ^4-inch bolts through the cowling at the points marked.
(7)	Place the primer assembly (24) in place and install bolts, nuts, and lock washers.
(8)	Place the air cleaner in position and install attaching screws.
(9)	Cut a length of hose (26) approximately 15 inches long which will reach from the primer assembly to the nipple installed in the intake manifold. Place the hose in position and install hose clamps and clamp screws.
(10)	Cut a length of hose 11 inches long to use as a primer drain (25). Place a hose clamp on the hose and install the hose, then tighten the clamp screw.
h.	Install the Fan Assembly (fig. 17).—Slide the fan assembly (18) over the stub-shaft and into position against the hub of the pulley on the crankshaft. Install the hub cap screws and lock washers.
i.	Install Crankshaft Jaw.—(1) Place a Woodruff key in the slot in the end of the stub-shaft (see fig-17).
(2)	Slide the crankshaft jaw (17) on the end of the stub-shaft and against the hub of the fan (18), lining up the slot in the jaw with the Woodruff key in the stubshaft. In order to locate the points at which to drill holes, to attach the jaw to the fan hub, mark the fan hub through the four holes in the outer flange of the jaw. Remove the jaw.
(3)	Using an electric hand drill, drill four holes %6 inch deep into the front of the fan hub at the points marked. Note : For accuracy, perfprm this operation on a drill press, if available.
(4)	Tap the four holes for a % inch by 28 S. A. E. thread.
(5)	Place the jaw in position on the stub-shaft and install cap screws and lock washers.
j.	Install Pump Bracket Assembly (fig. 6).—(1) Loosen the nut which holds the fender tie-rod to the left fender. Pry the lower part of the fender out from the chassis frame a few inches.
(2)	Place the pump bracket (6), with assembled side brackets (5), cross member (8) and support brackets (7), in place on the chassis frame. The forward, end of each side bracket should be exactly 1^4 inches from the end of the chassis frame. Both side brackets (5) should be placed so that the inner edge of the side brackets protrude % inch over the inner edge of the chassis frame. This will simplify replacing the radiator grilles Tighten the Allen set screws in the side brackets.
(3)	Hold the side brackets (5) in place, and, using a sharp-pointed tool, mark the frame through the holes in the side brackets. Remove the pump bracket (6), with assembled cross member (8), support brackets (7), and side brackets.
(4)	Using a hand electric drill, drill holes for ^-inch bolts through each end of the frame at the points marked. Drill only through the upper flange of the channel.
(5)	Place the pump bracket, with assembled side brackets, support brackets, and cross member in position and install bolts, nuts, and lock washers.
k.	Install Lower Cross Member (fié- 6) •—(1 ) Place the lower cross member (9) in position on the lower flange of the chassis frame. The holes in the lower cross member should be % inch from the end of the chassis frame.
(2) Mark the frame through the holes in the lower cross member. Using a hand electric drill, drill holes for y2 - inch bolts through the frame at the points marked. Place the metal shims beneath the lower cross member and above the flange of the frame. Install bolts, lock washers, and nuts.
I.	Install Pump Bracket Brace (fig. 7).— (1) Remove the nut at each end of the pump bracket brace (28).
(2) Swing the pump bracket outward and upward, then slip one
16
end of the brace into the lower cross member and the other end into the pump bracket. Rotate the pump bracket downward to a vertical position, and install brace nuts and lock washers loosely.
m.	Drill and Dowell Pump Bracket Assembly.— (1) Using a hand electric drill, drill holes for No. 5 tapered dowel pin through the side brackets (5) and chassis frame, through the side brackets and cross member (8), through the support brackets (7) and cross member (8), and through the pump bracket (6) and support brackets (7).
(2)	Ream out each hole to the proper size and install a No. 5 tapered -dowel pin through each hole.
n.	Aline Floating Shaft.—Refer to paragraph 7 h.
o.	Measure Floating Shaft Length.—Refer to paragraph 7 i.
p.	Test Floating Shaft End Play (fig. 8).— (1) Slide the floating shaft (15), with assembled jaws (14) (16), through the pump bracket (6) so that the driven jaw (16) just installed is in mesh with the crankshaft jaw (17).
(2)	Wrap loose rope around the pump Siamese and beneath the nipples. Attach a chain hoist to the loose rope and lift the pump upward and into position. Slide the pump forward so that the clutch housing (4) is in line with the pump bracket (6), and .the pump jaw meshes with the driving jaw (14) on the floating shaft (15.)
(3)	Install pump bracket cap screws. Pull the cap screws up tightly.
(4)	Pull the floating shaft (15) back toward the pump so that the driving jaw (14) and pump jaw are held tightly together. Now observe the clearance between the jaws of the driven jaw (16) and the crankshaft jaw (17). There should be a clearance of from inch to inch.
(5)	If the clearance is greater than 516 inch, loosen the Allen set screw in the side of the driven jaw (16) and tap the jaw slightly toward the engine.
(6)	If the clearance is less than y16 inch, loosen the Allen set screw in the side of the driven jaw (16), place a screw driver between the jaws and tap the jaw slightly toward the pump. Tighten the Allen set screw in the side of the jaw, and again test the end play.
(7)	When the correct end play adjustment has been obtained, tighten the Allen set screw in the side of the jaw securely. Remove pump bracket cap screws, and lift off the pump. Lift out the floating shaft with assembled jaws.
(8)	Place the floating shaft (15) in a soft-jawed vise. Using an electric drill, drill through the jaw and floating shaft for a No. 5 tapered dowel pin. Ream out the hole to the proper size. Caution: Do not install the taper pin at this time. The floating shaft must first be inserted through the radiator core.
q.	Remove Pump Bracket Assembly.— (1) In order to install the radiator core, it is necessary to remove the pump bracket assembly.
(2)	Drive out the tapered dowel pins which hold the side brackets (5) to the frame. Remove side bracket bolts and nuts, then remove the bolts and nuts which hold the lower cross member (9) to the frame. Lift off the pump bracket assembly.
r.	Enlarge Radiator Core Center Hole.— (1) Using a sharp chisel and hammer, cut out the metal flange which surrounds the center hole in the radiator core.
(2) Using the same tools, enlarge the diameter of the hole so that the end of the floating shaft (15) will pass through the core. Caution: Be careful not to harm any of the cooling tubes in the radiator core. Enlarge the hole by slicing off part of the fins around the hole.
s.	Install Auxiliary Overflow Pipe.—Refer to paragraph 7 I.
t.	Install Radiator Core.—(1) Loosen the Allen set screw in the driven jaw (16) on the floating shaft (15), and remove the jaw. Now insert the floating shaft through the radiator core from front to rear, so that the jaw end of the shaft is at the front of the radiator core.
17
(2)	Tap the driven jaw on the pilot end of the floating shaft (fig. 18) so that the drilled and reamed hole in the clutch is lined up with the drilled and reamed hole in the shaft. Tap the tapered dowel pin in place.
(3)	Lift the radiator core with floating shaft into position in the truck. Mesh the driven jaw (16) on the floating shaft with the crankshaft jaw (17).
(4)	Attach radiator outlet and inlet hose connections.
(5)	Install radiator core anchor bolts, shims, and washers in the order in which they were removed.
u.	Install Pump Bracket Assembly.—(1) Lift the pump bracket assembly into position.
(2) histall the side bracket (5) frame bolts, lower cross member (9) frame bolts, and drive in the side bracket frame tapered dowel pins.
v.	Install Radiator Grille.—Lift the radiator grille into position and install all bolts, nuts, cap screws, and other attaching devices which were removed.
w.	Cut Out Radiator Grille.—Refer to paragraph 7 r (see fig. 19).
x.	Install Front'Mounted Pump.—Refer to paragraph 7 s (see fig. 19).
y. Install Pump Hose Connections.— (1) Cut a length of hose (20) 52 inches long. Place hose clamps on the hose and install the hose on the pump primer hose nipple at the bottom of the primer. Bring the hose around the right side of the radiator core, then through the radiator grille to the nipple in the two street elbows at the front of the pump (see fig. 19). Tighten the clamp screws.
¡(2) Cut two lengths of hose (10) 16 inches and 22% inches long. Place hose clamps on the hose and install a hose on each of the cooling connections (11) (short hose on right-hand cooling connection) installed in the bottom of the water pumps. Pull both ends of the hose around to the front of the radiator core and install the hoses on the assembled tee fittings and drain cock furnished. Tighten clamp screws.
(3)	Cut a short length of hose (10) which will reach from the tee fitting and drain cock up to the nipple on the shut-off valve at the back of the pump. Place hose clamps on the hose and install the hose on the nipples. Tighten clamp screws.
Figure 19.—Pump installation—1940 Ford
z. Install Throttle Control Brackets.—Refer to paragraph 7 u (see figs. 14 and 19).
aa. Install Throttle Control.—Refer to paragraph 7 v (see figs. 14 and 19).
bb. Install Primer Control.—Refer to paragraph 7 w (see figs. 14 and 19).
cc. Install Hood Latch Handle (fig. 19).—(1) Due to the position of the front mounted pump, a new hood latch handle must be substituted for the original handle on the 1940 and 1941 Ford trucks.
(2)	Using a hack saw, saw off the original handle at the lower level of the hood. Place a new handle in position and install screws.
dd. Install Front Pump Support and Bumper Assembly.—Refer to paragraph 7 x (see figs. 14 and 19).
Chapter 2 of this Report is now in preparation and will be distributed for insertion in this pamphlet at this point as soon as it comes off the press
18
Chapter 3. SKID MOUNTED PUMP (self-contained unit)
Paragraph
Section I.	Introduction.......................................................................         11—12
Section II.	Tools and Equipment........................................................................... 13
Section III. Installation of Skid-Mounted Pump......................................................    14-15
Section IV. Construction of Fire Hose Body........................................................         16
Section V. Auxiliary Fire Equipment......................................................    „......    17—19
SECTION I
INTRODUCTION
Paragraph
General..................  ;.........-.......... 11
Description..................................... 12
11» General.—a. The purpose of this chapter is to show how, by the use of the skid-mounted pump, any ordinary 12-foot platform truck may be quickly and easily transformed into efficient fire apparatus. Locations and methods of installation suggested are not to be construed as absolute “musts” for unquestionably each user of the skid-mounted pump will desire to make some variations to suit his own particular needs or desires.
b. Brief instructions are also given for installation of the skid-mounted pump on boats.
12» Description»—a. The skid-mounted pump consists of a standard F-type centrifugal fire pump mounted on a full-size 6-cylinder gasoline engine. The engine is completely equipped with a starting motor, battery, generator, radiator, air cleaner, gasoline tank, instruments, and other items of equipment necessary to make the unit self-contained. The pump primer assembly is mounted on the engine, above and slightly to the left of the pump.
b. The skid in which the engine and pump are mounted is made of steel stock. The front panel is cut out in a semicircular shape to provide access to the pump suction. Slanting, upturned, flanges welded on each end of the skid are designed to simplify installation of the unit. Other than the steel strips on which the engine and pump are mounted, the bottom of the skid is open.
SECTION II
TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT
Paragraph
Tools and Equipment........................ 13
13» Tools and Equipment»—The following is a list of all tools and special equipment normally required for the installation of the skid-mounted pump, for construction of the special fire hose body and installation of the auxiliary fire equipment. Each tool or item of special equipment is mentioned in the particular paragraph in which it is used. In most cases, size of bolts, nuts, and other attaching devices is not given, due to the fact that many of the mountings and special con
structions may be made from old or scrap metal, the size of which will determine what is needed.
Open-end wrench:
^-inch
^-inch
%-inch
%-inch
Hand saw
Hack saw
Screw driver (small and medium)
Hammer
Cold chisel
Case knife
Vise
Electric hand drill, ^-inch chuck
Prick punch
Chalk
Measuring tape
Chain hoist
Loose chain
Nails, screws, and bolts of assorted sizes
SECTION III
INSTALLATION OF SKID-MOUNTED PUMP
Paragraph
Truck Installation of Skid-Mounted Pump................ 14
Boat Installation of Skid-Mounted Pump................. 15
14» Truck Installation of Skid mounted Pump»—a. Provide Engine-Oil Drain Hole.—(1) Open the left-hand engine panel, and note the position of the engine oil drain. Measure the position of the oil drain in relation to the side and end panels of the skid.
(2)	Measure the entire base of the skid, then mark or outline these measurements on the platform of the truck. The unit should be mounted crosswise on the platform of the truck in back of the cab. The pump should be on the left side of the platform, and the entire unit should be centered so that controls are readily accessible.
(3)	Mark the position of the engine oil drain on the truck platform. Using an electric hand drill, drill five or six holes through the platform at the point marked. Knock out the wood between the holes. Then, using a hand saw, enlarge the hole to a 4- to 6-inch diameter.
b.	Install Skid-Mounted Pump.—(1) Install loose chain through the four lifting brackets on the skid (two on each side of the skid).
(2)	Attach the chain hoist to the loose chain, and lift the unit into its marked position on the truck platform. The pump should face outward from the left side of the platform.
(3)	Bend four pieces of strap steel into L-irons.
(4)	Place two of the strap steel L-irons on each side of the skid, about 15 inches from either end. Drill through the L-irons and skid, and through the L-irons and platform, for ^-inch bolts. Install bolts, lock washers, flat washers, and nuts.
19
IS» Boat Installation of Skid-Mounted Pump»—a. Installation of skid-mounted pumps on boats differs only slightly from that on platform trucks. •Some form of raised support must be devised which will provide access to the under side of the pump engine, similar to that used in mounting the engine which drives the boat.
b.	For temporary operation, the pump suction pipe can be swung over the side of the boat, just as water is sucked from a river by a pump mounted on a truck. For permanent installation, a recommended procedure is to install 3-inch pipe down through the bottom of the boat, directly beneath the pump suction. This form of installation is shown in figure 20.
c.	In figure 20 essential connections only are shown. The number of pumps and arrangement depends entirely on the size and shape of the boat on which the units are installed. Pipe such as illustrated in figure 20 is used only where standard fire department suction and discharge hose is not available.
; d. It should be emphasized that the mechanic is expected to use ingenuity and good judgment in working oüt the details. For advice on installation of additional fire equipment necessary to the operation of the pump, consult the local fire department.
SECTION IV
CONSTRUCTION OF FIRE HOSE BODY
Paragraph
Construction of Fire Hose Body................. 16
16» Construction of Fire Bose Body (fig» 21)»—a. Cut Body Panels.—Using %-inch plywood, or matched boarding, cut out two rectangular panels, approximately 92 inches long by 36 inches high. These will form the side panels of the body. Cut out one panel 9114 inches long by 36 inches high to form the dividing panel of the body. Cut out one panel approximately 56 inches long by 36 inches high to form the front of the hose body. These measurements must be modified when a short-wheelbase truck is used.
b.	Measure Body Position.—(1) Measure from the side of the skid-mounted pump toward the rear of the truck. Mark the location on the truck platform for mounting the front hose body panel.
(2)	Measure a minimum of 15% inches inward from each side of the truck platform, and mark the location for mounting the two hose body side panels. Note: A minimum of 15% inches should be left on both the left and right side of the truck platform to provide adequate space for the installation of auxiliary fire equipment.
(3)	Measure 17 inches inward from the position marked for the left hose body panel, and mark the location for the panel which divides the hose body into two compartments. The smaller compartment is used for 1%-inch hose and the larger compartment is used for 2%-inch hose.
c.	Install Body Panels.—Using L-irons and angle irons, bolt the body panels to the truck platform. Use %-inch bolts. Refer to figure 22 for the location of angle irons
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and L-irons. For utmost strength of body construction, use full body height angle irons at each corner of the body.
d.	Install Support Rod.—Install a 1-inch piece of steel pipe across the top rear of the hose body. Use 1-inch floor flanges to secure the rod to both sides of the three longitudinal body panels. Bolt with %-inch by 1%-inch stove bolts, lock washers, flat washers, and nuts.
e.	Install Body Brace.—Bend a piece of %-inch round steel stock to use as a slanting body brace. Drill the brace for % -inch bolts, and install the body brace from the left top rear of the hose body to the platform of the truck. The bottom of the brace should be about an inch from the left rear corner of the platform. Drill the platform and left body side panel through the brace holes and install % -inch bolts, lock washers, and nuts.
/. Build Body Rear Step.—(1) Installation of the fire hose body rear step depends to a great extent on the materials at hand. The recommended construction embodies the use of supporting L-shaped angle irons, bolted to the chassis frame and firmly braced by crisscross angle irons.
(2)	Slanting angle-iron supports which run from both inner corners of the step to the chassis frame are also recommended. These should extend out to the full width of the step.
(3)	If sheet steel is available, it can be used to back up the step between the platform of the body and the step, otherwise wood boards will do the job.
(4)	Angle iron should be 1^ inches by -%-inch stock. Attaching bolts should be at least % inch in size.
SECTION V
AUXILIARY FIRE EQUIPMENT
Paragraph
General.......................................   17
Description of Auxiliary Fire Equipment-------—- 18
Installation of Auxiliary Fire Equipment......—. 19
17.	General»—The purpose and scope of this section are to show a logical, workable plan of installation of the auxiliary fire equipment supplied with the skidmounted fire-pump unit. It should be emphasizéd, however, that the plans and suggestions given are not to be construed, in every case, the only efficient way of installation. Many users of the skid-mounted fire-pump unit may desire to install some additional equipment already on hand, and in such cases location of items of equipment suggested in the following paragraphs may by necessity have to be moved to other suitable locations.
18.	Description of Auxiliary Fire Equipment.—Note: The following is a list of the auxiliary fire equipment supplied by the OCD with the skidmounted fire-pump unit. Nozzles, fittings, and wrenches are all malleable iron.
a.	Hose.—(1) Two 10-foot lengths of 4-inch hard suction hose with 41/2-inch couplings (National Standard Couplings).
Use: Connect pump to hydrant, or “drafting” (pumping) from open water.
(2)	Eight 50-foot lengths of 2^-inch fire hose (National Standard Couplings).
Use: Laying hose line from pump to fire.
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(3)	Four 50-foot lengths of 1^4-inch fire hose (National Standard Couplings).
Use : Where the 2]/4-inch line would supply excessive water, or to extend the 2^4-inch line.
b.	Strainer.— (1) One 4^-inch strainer of malleable iron.
(2)	A 30-foot length of %-inch-diameter rope is included for keeping the hose off the bottom of source of water.
Use: Strainer is attached to suction hose to prevent all foreign material large enough to cause damage from entering the pump.
c.	Nozzles.—(1) One l^-inch nozzle (8 inches over all) with ^-inch-diameter discharge.
(2)	Two 2%-inch nozzles (15 inches over all), one nozzle with 1%-inch-diameter discharge, and one nozzle with 1-inch-diameter discharge.
(3)	One l^-inch spray nozzle (4^4 inches over all).
d.	Hose Fittings.— (1) One l^-inch Wye fitting with 1^/2-in ch standard cap, having one 2 ^4-inch female connection and two 1^4-inch male connections.
(2)	One 2 ^4-inch Wye fitting with 2-inch standard cap, having one 2^4-inch female connection and two 2^-inch male connections.
(3)	One 214-inch Siamese fitting with one 2 ^4-in ch male connection and two 2 ^4-inch female connections.
(4)	One 4 ^4-inch by 2%-inch reducer.
[(5) One 214-inch double male coupling.
(6)	One 2%-inch double female coupling.
e.	Wrenches.— (1) Six 2%-inch spanner wrenches.
(2)	One 4^4-inch spanner wrench.
(3)	Two adjustable hydrant wrenches.
/. Ladders.— (1) One 24-foot extension ladder.
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(2)	One 14-foot roof ladder.
g. Additional Auxiliary Items.— (1) Two hose and ladder straps (standard).
(2)	One long-handled square mouth shovel.
(3)	One 6-pound pick-head ax.
(4)	One claw tool, 40 inches over all.
(5)	One 8-foot pipe pole.
(6)	One coil %-inch-diameter rope, 100 feet long.
(7)	Two dry-cell hand lanterns complete with batteries.
(8)	Four 14-quart fire buckets.
(9)	One 24-unit first-aid kit.
(10)	Three 4-gallon hand-pump type fire extinguishers.
19	. Installation of Auxiliary Fire Equipment»—a. Install Lantern Brackets and Lanterns (fig. 25).— (1) Using flat washers, lock washers, nuts, bolts, and small size angle irons, install one lantern bracket at the top rear of left hose body panel and one bracket at the top rear of the divisional hose body panel.
(2	) Place dry-cell lanterns on holders of lantern brackets, suspending them from their wire hangers, convex dome top of lanterns down.
b.	Install Shovel Brackets and Shovel (fig. 22).-— Using lock washers, flat washers, nuts and bolts, install two shovel brackets, one near end of handle, one near base of shovel). Place shovel in brackets.
c.	Install Claw Tool Brackets and Claw Tool (fig. 22).—Using lock washers, flat washers, nuts and bolts, install two claw tool brackets, one to secure claw end and one near end of handle. Place claw tool in brackets.
d.	Install Ax Brackets and Ax (fig. 22).—Using lock washers, flat washers, nuts and bolts, install two ax brackets, one nearly horizontal to hold the head of the ax, one to hold ax near end of handle. Place ax on brackets.
e.	Install Pike Pole Brackets and Pike Pole (figs. 22 and 25).—Using lock washers, flat washers, nuts and bolts, install a clip bracket and a circular bracket at the front and rear top of the right hose body panel. Installation should be made on the inside of the top of the panel in order to leave space for the ladder brackets to be installed. Place pike pole on brackets.
/. Install Suction Hose Brackets and Suction Hose (fig. 23).—Using large bolts sufficient in length to go through the truck platform, install a metal bracket for the two 10-foot lengths of 4-inch suction hose along the right side of the truck platform. A recommended construction is welded sections of 3-inch angle irons, spaced to allow the hose sections to ride firmly against the sides of the angle irons. The supports should be 10 feet long. Place suction hose sections on the support.
g.	Install Ladder Support Brackets and Ladders (figs. 23 and 25).— (1) Measure width of the two ladders, and
mark location for four ladder brackets just below the top of the right hose body panel.
(2) Construct four brackets at the front and rear of the right hose body panel to hold the ladders flush against the panel. The width of the ladders should be in a ver-
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ticàl position, and the brackets should hold the ladders at both the tops and bottoms.
(3) Using lock washers, flat washers, nuts and bolts, attach brackets at previously marked locations. Then install ladders on brackets. Install a stud lock bracket to hold the ladders securely.
h.	Install Fire Extinguisher Brackets and Fire Extinguishers (fig. 22 ).—Using lock washers, flat washers, nuts and bolts, attach the three brackets supplied for the three 4 gallon fire-extinguisher units. Space brackets conveniently front to back along left side of truck platform. Mount fire-extinguisher units on brackets.
i.	Install First-Aid Kit (fig. 22).—Using lock washers, flat washers, nuts and bolts, mount a small wood frame, approximately 3 inches high, and just a fraction of an inch longer and wider than the first-aid kit, to the truck platform near the front end of the left hose body panel. Install first-aid kit in frame, making sure it rides securely. (Take up slack space by installing cloth or fabric pads inside of the frame.)
j.	Install Equipment Box (fig. 22).—Using lock washers, flat washers, nuts and bolts, install an equipment box near the rear of the left hose body panel on the truck platform. Secure bolts through bottom of equipment box and through the truck platform. Equipment carried carried in thè box is shown in figure 24. Note : A practical size equipment box is 28 inches long, 14 inches high and 12 inches wide, which is approximately the size of the one pictured.
k.	Install Fire Bucket Rack and Fire Buckets (fig. 22).— (1) Using three flat iron strips for hangers, and a square wooden board as a base, construct a fire-bucket rack. Attach the steel strap hangers to the truck platform beneath the skid-mounted pUmp.
(2)	Telescope the three buckets and set the buckets on the mounted rack.
(3)	Use a strap with a buckle for the outside support, and another strap attached to the three iron strips, buckled at the front, to keep the buckets from falling out.
I.	Install Screw Plates, Reducer, and Siamese and Wye Fittings (fig. 22).—Between the first-aid kit and the pump side of the skid unit, install screw plates for the 4^-inch by 2^-inch reducer, the 2%-inch Siamese and the 2%-inch Wye fittings, using %-inch bolts, lock washers, flat washers, and nuts. Mount the fittings on the screw plates.
m.	Install Hose in Hose Compartments (fig. 25).— (1) Pack the hose in the hose body compartments, laying the 21/2-inch hose in the right compartment and the 11/2-inch hose in the left compartment.
(2)	Place the section of 100-foot rope on top of the large hose in the right compartment of the hose body.
n.	Install Fittings and Couplings (fig. 25).—Using lock washers, flat washers, nuts and bolts, install four screw plates on the rear step (two on each side). Attach the 11/2-inch Wye, the two 2^-in ch shut-off nozzles, the 214-inch double male and the 2%-inch double female couplings.
U.S GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE 16-31527“!
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