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		<mainTitle nfc="0"><title>Coastal zone processes and their influence on estuarian conditions</title>:<titleExt>28 October 1970, Nearshore and Estuarine Zone Symposium, Portland, Oregon</titleExt>/<respStmt>by Alyn C. Duxbury.</respStmt></mainTitle>
	</titleStmt>
	<authorStmt>
		<persAuthor mainEntry="y"><name type="surname">Duxbury, Alyn C.</name>,<date>1932-</date></persAuthor>
		<corpAuthor><name>University of Washington.</name><subName>Dept. of Oceanography.</subName></corpAuthor>
		<corpAuthor><name>University of Washington.</name><subName>Division of Marine Resources.</subName></corpAuthor>
	</authorStmt>
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		<meeting><name>Nearshore and Estuarine Zone Symposium</name><date>(1970</date>:<location>Portland, Or.)</location></meeting>
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	<imprint><pubPlace>Seattle, Wash.</pubPlace>:<pubName>University of Washington, Dept. of Oceanography</pubName>:<pubName>Division of Marine Resources</pubName>,<pubDate>1970.</pubDate></imprint>
	<classStmt>
		<locClass>
			<subject cat="top">Estuaries.</subject>
		</locClass>
		<locClass>
			<subject cat="top">Coast changes.</subject>
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<pb n="1" />

            Coastal Zone													RLo-1725-184
             Information													.Conf-701064--1
                 Center

              GC                                                           UNIVERSITY OF WASHINGTON
              97                                                           DEPARTMENT OF OCEANOGRAPHY
             .D89                                                                    and
             1970                                                         DIVISION OF MARINE RESOURCES
                                                                           Seattle, Washington 98105
                                                                                                                                                     APR 18 1975

             Jul 24 1997

                                                                      Coastal Zone Processes and their

                                                                      Influence on Estuarian Conditions

                                                                            28 October 1970

                                                                           Nearshore and Estuarine
                                                                               Zone Symposium
                                                                              Portland, Oregon

                 U.S. DEPARTMENT OF COMMERCE NOAA
                 COASTAL SERVICES CENTER
                 2234 SOUTH HOBSON AVENUE                                             by
                 CHARLESTON, SC 29405-2413
                 							                     	Alyn C. Duxbury

                                                                                NOTICE
                                                                  This report was prepared as an account of work
                                                                  sponsored by the United States Government. Neither
                                                                  the United States nor the United States Atomic Energy
                                                                  Commission, nor any of their employees, nor any of
                                                                  their contractors, subcontractors, or their employees,
                                                                  nukes any warranty, express or implied. or assumes any
                                                                  legal liability or responsibility for the accuracy, com-
                                                                  pleteness or usefulness of any information, apparatus,
                                                                  product or process disclosed, or represents that its me
                                                                  would not infringe privately owned rights.

                                                                                                             Property of CSC Library

                    Reference: M70:79
                    Oral Prescntation prepared under
                    U.S. AEC Contract AT (45-1)-1725
                               and
                    Grant GH-66 under the Sea Grant Program
    		                 25-184
                             r 1970                                                                               COASTAL ZONE
         GC                                                                                                       INFORMATION CENTER
         97
        .D89
        1970

                                                                                                                 DISTRIBUTION OF THIS DOCUMENT IS UNLIMITED
<pb n="2" />

                                     COASTAL ZONE PROCESSES AND THEIR
                                     INFLUENCE ON ESTUARIAN. CONDITIONS

                Introduction

                      A discussion  of the estuarian and,coastal zone is norcomplete  unless

                the'oceanic processes along the coast are also considered. On  the basis of

                several premises, one can describe flushing rates or calculate the net

                circulation using salt and water budget equations in estuaries. However,

                estimates of this type are based on average conditions and thus are insen-

                sitive to the role that coastal waters may play in estuarian Circulation,

                especially when short lived density-driven displacement entersinto the

                problem.

                      one can readily calculate the volume transport in along  the bottom of

                the Straits of Juan de Fuca and the volume transport out at the surface that

                are required to =aintain the salt and water balance of the Straits of Georgia,

                Puget Souhd estuarine systems. These transports can be shown to very

                seasonally because of the changing freshwater discharge and the changing

                salinity of the Incoming ocean water and outgoing surface vater. The ability
                of the incoming water to flu.5'h the deep basins behind the shallow entrance

                sills Is not just a function of its supply and salt content, but also a function

                of its temperature, which combines with the salinity to control its density.

                Only when the incoming water at depth is supplied in sufficient quantity and

                density can it displace the deep basin water behind isolating sills in the

                estuarian environment. Thus, flushing of the deeper estuaries is not necessar-

                ily a continuous process, but can be periodic and is related to oceanic

                processes that combine to place a dense water in position where it can flow

                inward to the estuarian system. In the Strait of Juan de Fuca case, the

                dense water must be raised sufficiently in the water coll-n to clear the

                180-m entrance sill of the Strait.
                                                                    COASTAL ZONE,
                                                                    INFORMATION -CENYE
<pb n="3" />

                    In other   shallow coastal   e.mbayments such as Willapa Bay   and Cray's

            Harbor, there   are no  deep basins  isolated   by shallow  entrance sills. Thus,

            flushing  is more of a continuous    process.,   However, even here the changing

            characteristics of the     ocean water presented.to the   bay entrance become

            important.   The sudden    appearance of a dense   oceanic  waterat   levels

            shallow  enough to enter   the channels leading    to these  embayments can  cause

               gravity flow  into the  bay that will bodily    displace  the water within

            the  bay at a rate   that  is greater than @hat calculated    from budget consider-

            ations.   This type of flushing,,unrelated to that      required  for salt and

            water balance or    tidal  exchange, can be regarded as   both good and bad. It,

            can be good if one considers-that it     is a mechanism   for rapidly reroving

            waste materials   from-a semi-isolated   embayment or bad if the flushing leads

            to the displacement of water    that contains the planktonic stage of some

            desired benthic   organism  such as oyster larvae.

                    The properties of   the displacing water that make    it dense, namely, high

            salinity and low temperature, may also create additional       problems for   biopop-,

            ulations in an embayment. The biopopulations adapted to        a warmer,. less saline

            water may suffer considerably when a sudden flushing exposes them to a lower

            temperature-higher salinity water.

                    The properties of the   oceanic water   and the.proce sses that act   to

            present a variable type of oceanic water to the estuaries       are part   of near-

            coast.ocean environment. Thus, for      a full understandiug   of  estuarian  problems,

            we  must also  unaerstand  the coastal  regime.
<pb n="4" />

          The Coastal Regime of Washington and qregon

                                      -Washington and Oregon is located at about  the
               ..The coastal region of

          same Utitude as the center  of the North Pacific West Wind Drift, the broad

          expanse of westward-moving water that is the northern side of the large

          North Pacific clockwise current gyre. This current often mistakenly referred

          to as the Japanese Currenti divides as it approaches the coast, sending one

          branch northward to feed the Guli of Alaska gyre and another branch south-

          ward to form a flow called the California Current. This latter flow, though
          not swift, is subtantial and enduring enough to'carry vister of the type found

          I-a the north central Pacific Ocean as far.south as the tip of Baja, California.

                The division of the West Wind Drift current  into its two branches
          occurs about 11 x 102km, 600 a mi. off our coast.  Thus, our Immediate

          coastal region appears to be well removed from the direct iniluence of this

          major oceanic surface current. Indeed,.our coastal region extending-out to
          about,5 x102km Is characterized by wealt and variable flows.    Dynamic

          topographies that       -he mean ocean surface current relative to the 1000

          decibar level.in Z:he same way atmospheric pressure charts are used to deter-
          mine the wind fiv-.lt4 s%.vw'that surface currents are variable at about 5 cm/sec-1

          off shore, abonc 2ilO of a knot, and about twice that, closer to shore.

                The low value of flow imposed by the oceanic scale currents in our

          coastal region allows the local processes.for generating cu rrents to become

          very important. Studies conducted in the coastal regions of Washington and

          Oregon point out that the local wind influence is instrumental in control-

          Ing the water circulation and that the seasonal.cycle in the prevailing wind

          system produces a seasonal cycle in-the coastwise flow and the properties of

          the seawater found'near shore. A reversal in the nearshore surface current

          during winter is evident.
<pb n="5" />

         t
                       During  the s@-,nmer months, the North Pacific high pressure cell enlarg'es

                and migrates to a position where it, combined with the Canaiian Continental

                low cell pressure, produces predominately northerly winds of light magnitude.

                Duri ng the winLer the coudensing of the North Pacific high and the develop-

                ment of the Aleutian low cell cause  south witids of stronger magnitude to

                predominate along the coast# This cyclic reversal in the local wind field

                is what causes the reversal in  the alongshore'flow of the surface water.

                It also causes a reversal in the onshore and offshore component of the surface

                flow. During the winter, water from offshore is moved toward the coast and

                held locked in against the beach where it is mixed with fresh water issuing

                from the rivers and land drainage; and then it migrates northward. In the

                summer the surface water and river effluent are moved seaward from the coast

                and to the southwest. This onshore-offshore flow locally supplies seawater

                to the coast in the winter to cause downwelling and removes the surface seawater

                during th@-: summer necessitating upwelling of deeper water to maintain

                continuity.

                       The movement of coastal water in response to the wind approximates

                that described in Ekman wind drift theory. That Is, the surface water moves
                stan angle of about 45 0 to the right of the wind stress vector while the

                transport of water as integrated,over the vertical column set in motion by

                                    0
                the wind is about 90  to the right of the wind. The transport and surface

                                                                                      -ved.
                current as determined from Ekman  theory closely agree with that obser

                Studies of the distribution of the Columbia River effluent under AEC support

                have shown that occasionally discrete cells of low salinity water are formed

                near the river mouth and migrate seaward as  an identifiable mass of water.

               'Their displacement over time nearly matches  that predicted by Ekman drift in

              ..both speed and direction.
<pb n="6" />

                        The seasonal variation in the local surface currents greatly affects

                 the type of water found adjacent to tLe coast where it exchanges with the estu-

                 aries. In the summer the offshor-3 wind-induced transport causes coastal up-

                 welling. Along the coast, this process brings water from depth up to the

                 surface which has low temperatures zind high salinities. This upwelled water

                 In response to the removal of surface water seaward forms a barrier of dense

                 water that isolates the effluent from the Columbia River from direct contact

                 with the coast. At this time of  year the Columbia River becomes the major

                 source of dilution for the region as freshwater contribution from smaller

                 coastal rivers is at a minimum. The surface salinity patterns clearly

                 reflect upwelling during summer and the importance of the Columbia River

                 as a singular diluting scurce.

                        In the winter the northward and onshore set of the surface flow

                 under the driving wind stress produces another distribution of properties.

                 The prevailing wind pattern at this time of year Is closely coupled with an

                 appreciable increase in coastal precipitation. This increases the fresh-

                 water discharge of all coastal rivers into the nearshore environment and

                 makes the Columbia River less evident as a single source of dilution. One

                 therefore sees a dilute band of seawater held In against the coast and

                 tending northward. The surface salinity distributions during winter are ind1ca-

                 tive of the flow.

                       The surface wiuds are usually stronger in winter than in summer.

                 Thus, even though the local currents tend to reverse seasonally, the north-

                 ward flow in wint2r is greater than the southward flow in summer. This aide

                 in producing a net trend of coastal water to the north over the annual cycle.

                 Another process also acts to promote a norzhward-tending flow especially

                 at depth. The presence of the Strait of Juan-de Fuca with its attached

                 estuarian systems makes certain demands on the water at the coast. The
<pb n="7" />

                 water and salt budget  equations show that an  influx of bottom water Into

                 the St raita of Georgia, Puget Sound System is on the a verage about 13 x
                 104m3see -1 with a range from 6 x 10 4m3sec-1  in winter to 26 x 104M3sec-1

                 In summer, This Is no small flow rate. At its mean value, it is more than

                 18 times the average annual discharge of the Columbia River. The outflow at

                 the surface is equal to the inflow at depth plus the freshwater contribution.

                 This influx at depth into the Straits and discharge at the surface acts to

                 pull ocean water at depth alvag the coast toward the entrance enhancing a
                 northward flow along the coast of Washington at'all seasons. The kind of

                 water at depth to flow toward the Strait of Juan de Fuca is evident in

                 the migration patterns of seabed drifters that have been released along

                 the coast and picked up on the beaches or at sea by bottom trawlers.

                 The Seasonal Change in Water Properties at the Coast.

                       We  should now consider the change in coastal water type that is

                 associated with the &amp;easonal wind reversal. To do this we will consider

                 the characteristics of the water.in che Strait of Juan de Fuca. In midwinter,

                 Febr@jary, data from i section across the Strait at Pillar Point show that
                 at,50-m depth, water of 31.5 to 32 O/oo salinity increasing to 33.7 O/oo, at
                 180-m depth, and isothermal at SOC is avvilable as the incoming water to be

                 mixed wkh outflowing water by tidal.act@`on on the sills. This water has

                 a, density range, of about 24.94 to 26.27 in F gma-t units. In the sua-mer the

                                                                        0
                 water occupying the same position has   salinity of 32 /oo at 50 m Increasing

                               0
              ..to about 33.9 /11 -at depta and a temperature structure that   varies from
                 80C at 50 m down to about 6.30C at depth. This water has a density range   of

                 about 24.94 to.26.67.' Clearly the densest water available for transport into

                 the Straits at depth to be mixed with the outflowing surfacewateris     found
<pb n="8" />

            during the summer. Of   equal importance  is the  higher salinity of the near

            surface water with which the deep water   mixes during the late summer. This

            higher surface salinity is, of course, a result of the reduced    freshwater

            discharge  at this time of year and the deep water from the basins that is

            being displaced by the incoming dense water.

                   Thus, the densest water available at the sills    in Puget Sound to

            displace the water at depth in the deep basins behind    the sills is formed

            during late summer. In a season when coastal upwelling is particularly

            intense and widespread, and precipitation is low, a greater quantity of

            denser water can be formed to act as a flushing agent. If precipitation
            is high during' a summer and coastal winds do not promote strong upwelling,

            there is a chance that an insufficient qunntity   of the dense water will be

            produced to thoroughly flush the deep isolated basins of a system such as

            Puget Sound..

                   The small shallow harbors having  direct  contact with the ocean along

            the Washington and Oregon  coast are not as dependent on  the quantity and

            density of the intruding  seawater as Puget Sound is. These   embayments do

            not have deep basins behind isolating sills that act as   catch basins for

            dense water. The ratio of tidal prism volume to volume    of water at MLW

            stand is large indicating that a considerable portion of the volume of   the

            embayment at MSL is removed and aeded each tide cycle. Their extensive

            shallows and exposure to coastal winds, as well as the turbulence generated

            in &amp;the tidal slCream at their entrances, combine to aid in vertical mixing and

            promoting exchange between the tidal prism and the  residual water left at each

            low tide. The  dilution of these shallow harbors "y their rivers produces

            strong vertical density structure near the  rivers that  rctards vertical mixing.
<pb n="9" />

                       The seasonal change  in the coastal water present   off the mouths of

                these harbors and bays,  however, does have an effect on   the water properties

                Within-the embayments.   In the wintertime coastal precipitation   increases

                the-flew of the rivers into these harbors to decrease their   salt content and

                cause strong density stratification near their heads. In the case    of Willapa

                Bay and Gray's Harbor, the effluent from.the Columbia is directed northward

                along the coast to occupy a position off their mouths. Thus, in winter,     fresh

                water is available to the harbors L:om both the landward and seaward side.

                In the summer the river discharge into the heads of these two harbors    is

                reduced, and ahigh  salinity-low temperature upwelled water   is present  off

                their mouths.  This means that seasonally a  fairly large fluctuation in

                @salinity can occur while the temperature is buffered.

                       In the winter,water temperatures are  controlled by  local  climatic

                conditions and by the temperature of freshwater sources.   In the   summer,

                however, the increase in temperature due to solar heating  of the  bay is

                somewhat offset by the introduction of the low temperature upwelled coastal

                water. Inspection.of the data available in Willapa.Bay and Gray's Harbor

                at midbay position shows that considerable scatter in surface and salinity

                values is found at the surface. These data, however, have been collected

                at  all tidal stages And reflect a trend of elevated temperatures and lowered

                salinities during ebb stages and lowered temperatures and elevated salinities

                during flood,periods.in the summer. In the winter the ebb produces lowered

                temperatures and salinities, while the floodstage elevates both temperature

                and salinity. Inthe summer an oc!@-asional data point will show a very low

                temperature and high salinity, indicating the resence of   upwelled  oceanic

                water at the mid-channel obaervation point.
<pb n="10" />

                                                      -9-

                         Temperature and salinity data uncorrected for tidal stage in Willapa

                  Channel (Bendiksen).can be used to construct a T-S envelope that shows the

                  seasonal change in water characteristics. The limits of salinity and temper-

                  ature changes found in such an envelope may be used to judge the fitness of

                  the water for sustaining a biopopulation. As an examplethe adult Pacific

                  oyster Oateria gigae has a known tolerance range to temperature and salinity.

                  The larval stage has a smaller tolerance range fcr survival. This oyster

                  also has a required temperature for spawning. These tolerance limits also

                  can be drawn on a T-S diagram and superimposed on the seasonal T-S envelope

                  for a harbor.

                         It is easy to understaad from the comparison of these two envelopes

                  that the summer introduction of cold upwelled coaRtal water into the harbor

                  acts to suppress the temperatures below that required by the oysters for

                  maintenance of the larval stage or reproduction at the mid-channel location.

                  Thus, intensive coastal-upwelling at a critical period may destroy the larvae

                  or not allow reproduction to occur. During summer the temperatures of the

                  shallow reaches remote from the mid-channel may or may not rise sufficiently

                  to allow survival and spawning. Although I cite Willapa Bay here, similar

                  processes occur at the other harbors along both the Oregon and Washington

                  Coast. However, iv harbors other than Willapa Bay and Gray's Harbor, dilu-

                  tion occurs primarily from rivers entering the heads ci the estuaries. There

                  Is no single large river such as the Columbia to provide additional coastal

                  wintertime dilution at their mouths.

                        The estuary of the Columbia River Interacts with the open sea quite

                  differently from the embayment-type estuaries where inflow and outflow

                  are primarily tidal. In the Columbiz estuary the large river flow limits

                  the intrusion of a osltwater wedge at depth keeping it short of its fall line.
<pb n="11" />

                     The   normal  intrusion  of the  salt wedge is  limited between Tongue Point

                     and  the sea.

                             The large vertical velocity   shear between  the seaward-moving  river

                     water and  the Intruding saltwater wedge acts   to-maintain a sharp boundary

                     between these  two waters across   which seawater   is  entrained upwards into

                     the more turbulent mixed surface    effluent. This ernsion'of   saltwater from

                     the wedge requires that the    salt wedge be replenished. Thus, the inflow of

                     saltwater into  the river channel   on the flood exceeds  that  required to movet

                     wedge upstream.   Outside of the   river mouth, the flow of effluent extend-

                     Ing to a depth  of  about 15 m also generates  a velocity  shear and entrainment

                     of saltwater from below   that is  used to increase the salinity and volume of

                     the-effluent. Both within and without the estuary,      the salt and water

                     entrainment p romote a localized upwelling.of   deep.er.water immediately around

                     the mouth-of the river and sea-fard of the mouth under the issuing jet. This

                     upwellIng Is  highly localized and is driven by processes unrelated to     those

                     affecting the more.widespread wind-driven upwelling. The velocity shear up-

                                                                            arge when entrainment in-
                     welling should be strongest at. periods of high disch

                     creases,

                             The foregoing discussion establishes in general   terms the  manner in

                     which the circulation  and changes  in the properties of  coastal water control

                     in part the physical.processes in   the bordering estuaries.    We now need to

                     consider some of the  other aspects   of the interplay between  the-ocean and

                     estuaries.

                     The Nutrient and  Gas Exchange   Between Coastal and Estuarine Water.

                             Not only are water, salt, and  heat exchanged between   the estuaries and

                     the coastal zone, but also  all other  dissolved substances carried in   the water

                     One.class of substances  of importance to  the biological populations   is nutrien
<pb n="12" />

                        another is  the dissolved  gasses. Other   products such  as pollutants, which

                        ara also important, will   be neglected here. The mosc    important of the dis-

                        solved gasses is oxygen.    It is obvious that the displacement of the isolal

                        deep basin water behind   the sills in Puget Sound by the intruding dense vat

                        in late summer also provides a mechanism by which aeration at depth is accc

                        plished. However, the-ox   ygen concentration of the intruding upwelled watex

                        at Pillar Point during the summer is low at 0.25 to 0.10 mg-at/L. Subseque

                        mixing on the sills elevates this-level to about 0.35 mg-at/L. The winter-

                        time oxygen concentra tions of the intruding water which has its source at

                        lesser depths in the sea are higher, ranging from 0.45 to 0.25 mg-at/L. In

                        late summer the intruding water, when mixed over the sills, has an oxygen
                        content of about  00.4 mg-at/L. This oxygen is then carried to depth in the

                        flushing process. If flushing of this deep water is not complete, then

                        insufficient aeration and removal of accumulated organics and nutrients occi

                        at depth.

                              Within tte estuaries, land drainage and sewage disposal contribute

                        a nutrient supply to the surface waters. As an example here, the Metro
                        System of Seattle alone contributes on the average    2,730 lbs-/day of nitrate-

                        nitrogen, 8,260 lbs/day of ammonia-nitrogen, 5,200    lbs/day of total phosphoi

                        and 4,200 lbs/day of orthophosphate as phosphorus to Puget    Sound. An eati-

                        mate of.the total nutrient supply to Puget Sound and other    estuaries is not

                        available at this time. The coastal ocean water thatenters the estuaries

                        at depth also acts as a source of nutrients. It    was stated earlier that the

                        summer transport of seawater into the Straits   of  Juan de Fuca as estimated
                                                    4 3      1
                        from continuity was 26 x 10 m sec-    .  The inorganic phosphorus-phosphate

                        conteat of this water averages about 2.5 ug-at/L. This means that about
                        6.5 X 108 Pg-at sec-1 is delivered by advection to.the Strait from the       sea.
<pb n="13" />

                                                    -12-

               An outward transport of'nutrients  in the surface layers is also occurring.

                     -The.h.arbors bordering the open coast also exchange dissolved gasses

               and nutrients with the coastal water.   The amount of exchange is sensitive to

               the-type of coastal water lying at the  harbor mouth. During winter the coastal

               water is oceanic surface water mixed with the effluents of the local rivers.

               This water is usually well aerated by the stronger winter winds and wave

               Action. Its low salinity, combined with wind mixing, tends to produce

               moderately high dissolved oxygen levels (0.5-0.6 mg-at/L). Its nutrient   content

               Is controlled in part by the typical concentrations found in the oceanic

               surface water, 5.50 ug-at/L for nitrate and 1.0 Ug-at/L for inorganic phos-

               phate. The river water present as the diluting agent may also add its contri-

               bution, of nutrients if the river is a t@ource of these materials.

                      In the summer when upwelling of subsurface water prevails under the

               lighter northerly winds, oxygen concentrations of the coastal water may drop

               appreciably and nutrient levels increase. Oxygen concentrations at depths

               where access can be gained into the estuaries can be as low as 0.2 to 0.3.

               mg-at/L. A specific example may be cited here when in August of.1963

               ,saumDles were taken along the coast between Gray's Harbor and Long Beach. In

               15 m of water off Grayland, the samples taken indicated that the seawater
               at 10 m depth had a temperature of 8.22 0C, a dissolved oxygen content of 0.236
               u&amp;-at/L,and a salinity of 33.2  0/oo. The collecting of samples on this

               occasion was prompted by a shellfish kill along the ocean beaches*a short

               time before. If mixing and aeration of upwelled coastal water in the entrance

               zone to the harbors or along the ocean beach are not sufficient, the bio-

               populations may be subject to both depressed temperatures and low oxygen

               values. The nutrient values of the coastal upwelled water exchanging with the

               estuaries are elevated during the summer because of its deeper source.
<pb n="14" />

              Concentration  values of 25 pg-at/L  for nitrate,  afivefold.increase over   winter

              levelst.are possible  with a  twofold increase of  inorganic phosphate to  2 ug-at/L.

              Concentrations may be diminished to   lower levels by in eitu biological

              utilization near the  sea surface if  the upwelled.water. is retained in  the

            ,,..,photic zone prior to its exchange with the estuaries.

              Conclusion.

                     Estuarian and  coastal zone processes   are interdependent.  The estuaries

              demand water from  the coastal zone for  tidal processes and to maintain.their

              average budgets of salt and water.. The type    of water present in the coastal

              zone to meet these demands  is governed by coastal and oceanic conditions,   and

              in the case cited here, is  closely  related to seasonal climatic  changes.  The

              presence of dense water at  the estuarymouth increases the flushing potential

              of the deeper well-isolated  basins by.gravity flows, whereas the   presence of

              less dense water does not.   Mixing processes At   the mouths of estuaries or@

              across internal sills within estuaries   that are  depeneent on tidal stream flow

              combine the inflowing oceanic water at   depth with the outward-flowing dilute

              surface water in the et'Wary.   Thus, the strength  of the tidal currents  and

              topography, combined wk;h theproperties of the surface water, also enter into

              the problem of flushing and exchange of water properties. -It is a complex

              interacuion dependent on many variables. Because    of this, each estuary or

              embayment is unique unto  itself and reacts to  the whims of nature  and man

            .alike.
<pb n="15" />

           REFERENCES

           Barnes, Clifford A., A. C. Duxbury, and Betty-Ann Morse, In Press, The Circula-

                tion and Selected Properties of the Columbia River Effluent at Sea, Bio-

                environmental Studies of the Columbia River Estuary and AcUacent Ocean

                Region, (D. L. Alverson and A. T. Pruter ed.), U. S. Atomic Energy Commission

                Publication.

          Budinger, T. F., L.  K. Coachman, and C. A. Barnes, 1964, Columbia River Effluent

                in the Northeast Pacific Ocean, Z961, Z9.62: Selected Aspects of Physical

                'Oceanography, University of Washington, Department of Oceanography Technical

                Report No. 99, Seattle.

         ..Department of Oceanography, 1953-54, Puget Sottnd and Approaches, A Literature

                Survey, Vol. I, II, IIr., University of Washington, Seattle.

          Duxbury, Alyn C., In Press, Variability of Salinity and Nutrients off the Columbia

                River Mouth', BioenvironmentaZ Studies of the Columbia River Estuary and

                AcUacent Ocean Region, (D. L. Alverson and A. T. Pruter ed.), U. S. Atomic

                Energy Commission Publication.

          Duxbury, Alyn C., Betty-Ann Morse, and Noel McGary, 1966, The Columbia River

                Effluent and its Distribution at Sea, University of Washington, Department

                of Oceanography Techical Report No. 156, Seattle.

          Morse, B.-A., M. G. Gross, and C. A. Barnes, 1968, Movement of Seabed Drifters
                near the Columbia River, Journal of the Waterways and Harbors Division,

                American Society of Civil Engineers, 94(WWI): 93-103.

          Redfield, A. C., 1950, Note on the Circulation of a Deep Estuary-the Juan de

                Fuca--Georgia Straits, Proceedings of the CoZZoquium on the Flushing of

                Estuaries, Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution: 175-177.
<pb n="16" />

            Stefansson, U., and F. A. Richards, 1963, Processes-Contributing to the

                 Nutrient Distribution of the Columbia River and Strait of Juan de Fuca,

                 Limnology and Oceanography, 8(4):394-410.

           Washington Department  Fisheries, Observations of Seawater Temperatures,

                 Density, and Salinity, State of Washington 1957-1957, Hydrographic Data,

                 Vol. 1, No. 2.
<pb n="17" />

             FIGURE  CAPTIONS

             Fig. 1--Surface  Salinity  and direction  of surface  flow   in the Northeast
             Pacific  ocean.

             Fig. 2--Dynamic topography  of the  near coastal zone, summer  conditions.

             Fig.  3--Dynamic  topography  of the  near coastal  zone, winter  conditions.

             Fig. 4--Mean  surface wind vectors  by month, 1961-1963.

             Fig.  5--Frequency of northerly  and southerly  componient winds by  month.

            Fig. 6--Average  direction and magnitude   of monthly Ekman  transport, 1961-1963.

             Fig.  7--Generalized distribution of Columbia River    effluent as  indicated by

             surface salinities,  summer condition.

             Fig.  8--Generalized distribution   of Columbia  River  effluent  as indicated by

             surface salinities, winter  conditions.

             Fig.  9--Release points and hypothetical paths  of seabed  drifters  along  the

             Washington coast.

             Fig. 10--Temperature   and salinity cycles at Pillar Point, Strait  of Juan de
             Fuca, February  1953--March   1954.
<pb n="18" />

              Fig. U-Surface eaZiniti_,c and temperatures observed in WiZZapa Channel

              (Bendik8en) Z954.

              Fig. Z2--Optimum saZintiy and temperature ranges for 0. gigas the Pacific Oyster.

              Fig. Z3--A comparison of opti-7um salinity and temperature conditions for 0. gigaq
              and.surface conditions observed in WiZZapa Channel.

              Fig. Z4--VerticaZ salinity structure in the Colwnbia River estuary, August Z963.

              Fig. 15--DiesoZved Oxygen content, mg-atlL, in the Strait of Juan de Fuca, July

              Z953.

              Fig. 16--Di8solved Oxygen content, mg-atIL, in the Strait of eTuan de Fuca,

              February Z95 J.

              Fig. 17--Diesolved inorganic phosphate content, ug-atIL, July Z953.
<pb n="19" />

                                      1600                     1400

                                                                                  COLUMBIA RIVER DRAINAGE    BASIN
                           32

                                                                                  HANFORD
                                                             3P                   SALINITY, %*
                                                                                  DIRECTION  OF FLOW

                                                                      32,

                    Ry    32.5-       %

                                                             +                +
                         33                                                        32

                                                                                       31

                                                                                  %
                                          +
                                                                               +

                    40
                        34

                                                         *lb

                                    1506                   140*                 130o                  120o
<pb n="20" />

                                                                                                                                   Vf

                                                                                   Ll

                                                                                                us

                                                                                               LM       LM ku  L86
                                                                                           US

                                                         10                                                                         ML
                                 4r 7                                                                                                Cftw.

                                                               cm sec-I
                                                      rs

                                               6-25 JULY     1961

                                            A  11 - 14 JULY  1961
                                            0  STATIONS  DEEPER THAN    1000 METERS

               FI-q
<pb n="21" />

                                                                                                                    *Lao

                                                                                                                                      L30

                                                                                                                           %I

                                                                                                                               um     L30

                                                                                                                     Lo
                                                                                                                 L30                              nm a-

                                     7'
                                                                                                                                             On lk@

                                                                                                                                                                              Ir

                                                                           cm sec-I

                                                    23 JANUARY- 7 FE13RUARY 1962                                    1962)
                                                + 3-5 FEBRUARY 1962
                                               0 STATIONS DEEPER THAN              1000 METERS

                                        -----------              -L-j     -----I-------           ....... I ---- 1---, -A             .....                      ........
                                                                 .3c.
                                                                                            '20.
<pb n="22" />

                                               1300                        1280                          126*                                                    1220

                                                                                                                    DEC
                                                                                                                    NOV
                                                                                                         F

                                                                            'A                                                                                     4fr
                                     4114-

                                                                                                   J,4N
                                                                                                                    OCT
                                                                                                                    MAR

                                                                                                                    APR

                                                                                                                    MAY
                                                                                                                    SEP

                                                                                                                    JUN
                                                                                                                    UG
                                                                                                                    JUL

                                                                                                         FEB Dr--C
                                     460-                                                                           NOV X                                           60

                                                                                                  jAN
                                                                                                                    T-YAR

                                                                                                                    APR

                                                                                                                    MAY
                                                                                                         SEP
                                                                                                         AUG

                                                                                                                    JUN
                                                                                                         JUL
                                                                                                                    jIf FEB
                                                                                                                                                               -440
                                                                                                         DEC

                                                                                                                    NOV

                                                                                             JA                     MAR

                                                                                                         OCT
                                                                                                         APR

                                                                                                         MAY

                                                                                                         SEP

                                    420-                                                                 AUG                                                       Q0
                                                     2    4    6 8 10
                                                 WIND  SPEED    IN   KNOTS               JUL      IJUN
                                                                                           L

                                                         GRID POINTS

                                              1300                         1280                          1260                       t240                        122*
                                                                                                         E
                                                                                                         5

                                                                                                                    OCT

                                                                                                                    T

                                                                                                                    APR

                                                                                                                    MAY
                                                                                                         SEP
                                                                                                         AUG

                                                                                                                    JUN

                                                                                                NA
<pb n="23" />

                100
                                    NORTHERLY WINDS
                  &gt;
                  &lt; 0)
                50
             0-2.

                 0
             w
                50                         10

                   SOUTHERLY   WINDS
                100
                  'A  M  J  J  A  S  0   N  D  J F   M
<pb n="24" />

                                      130*                1200                 126*                 124*                 122*
                                                      -T-    --T
                                                                                     4w

                               48*                                                                                         4B*

                                                                      AUG          JAN

                                                                    JUL
                                                                       JUN    APR MAR          FEB
                                                                         SEP         OCT         DEC
                                                                            MAY
                                                                                               NOV

                              46*
                                                                                                                          446a

                                                                                JAN
                                                                   JUN    )APR
                                                                        MAY                 FEB
                                                                   SEP         MAR         DEC
                                                                                   OCT
                                                                                           NOV

                              440-                                                                                        440

                                                JUL

                                               JUN                           JAN
                                                            AUG
                                                                                     DEC
                                                                    MAY
                                                                     APR           NOV   FEB

                                                                    OCT
                              420-
                                                                                                                          42'
                                          0.2 OA  0.6  0.8  LO                  MAR

                                  METRIC  TONS PER SEC  PER METER

                                             GRID P(WITS

                                     130*                 1280                 126*                1240                 1220
<pb n="25" />

                                                                   132'           13cv.         1213.          f26-           124-

                                                                                                                                              48-1
                                                                                                                                WAS"

                                                                                                                                 0, L AP4
                                                                                                                                 e.,

                                                               4V                                                                             46-

                                                                                                                   26
                                                                                                                     27

                                                                                                                    28

                                                               44--                                            28                    ORE    -44-

                                                                                             It%
                                                                                               %%
                                                                                                  %%               32
                                                              4r                                                                              4r

                                                                                                                                   CALIF

                                                                                                                                            -40,

                                                                                 30,           128.           126-           124-
<pb n="26" />

                                                                                                          130*               129.              F26'               124-
                                                                                                                                                                   I -ci.

                                                                                                                                                                                  U.S.
                                                                                                                                                                           ell,

                                                                                                                                                                     WAS"

                                                                                                                                                                  Ir

                                                                                                                                                                  2   WILLAPA

                                                                                   46'

                                                                                   44--

                                                                                   4                                                                                  -------

                                                                                                                                                                          CALIF .   -

                                                                                                                             120.
<pb n="27" />

                                        VANCOUVER
                                           ISLAND

                                           S7;9417-
                                                   A4/c

                                                         @914

                                             X

                       RELEASE POINTS
                           AND
                    HYPOTHETICAL PATHS

                        &gt; RIVER MOUTH
                          &lt; 40 METERS
                          &gt; 40 METERS
                   x      NO RECOVERIES

                   0        50       100

                         KILOMETERS
<pb n="28" />

                                                                             IS53
                                                              V   A    v   .1   1        s  0        0    1

                                                   to -                                so

                                                   40

                                                   Go                                                               zoo@-

                                                                                                                    Soo

                                                IL 120                                                                  w
                                                                                                                    4000

                                                   Mo

                                                   so                                                               6w
                                                                          TEMPERATUPE *C

                                                                                                             19"
                                                         F    9A AA   to   i    J  A     S25t 0  IS  0    a   f    V
                                                                                         :,r4
                                                   .20
                                                                                                          do        *0

                                                   go                                                               too
                                                                                              %    I
                                                                                               %
                                                am so
                                                        52           Joe,                           J!j-
                                                z
                                                        33                  %%
                                                   00                                         %                     4000
                                                bo
                                                        M%
                                                                                  c34
                                                   no

                                                                                                                    wo

                                                                                                              13
                                                   so                                                               wo
                                                                              SALINITY   %e

                                                                                                      IMMET    sou"
                                                                                                  -PILLAR POINT

                                                                                         TEMPMTLME AND           SALINITY CY=S
<pb n="29" />

                   40

                   30

                                                       10/19
                                               3/18
                                                               9
                :Z- 2 0                                      5/22   7/20

                                                           6/15
                                                       11/20
                                               4/21

                                               10                      20                      30
                                                   TEMPERATURE, OC
                                                  P
                                                               9
                                                             5/22

                                                           6/15
                                                           0
                                                      11/2
<pb n="30" />

                            gi
                              go's
                                                                 LARVAE
              40
                                                                     SPAWNING TEMP.

                                                         23.30
              30

                                                                      ADULT

          Z   20,

          cn

               10

                                 10               20
                                    TEMPERATURE, *C

                                                                                        Mo.  Eli
<pb n="31" />

             m M.-M, mom mo m.

                                        LARVAE
         40
                                           SPAW
                                              NING

         30                        23.3

                        10/19 8/19
                     3/18                   ADULT
                             9/29
         20                5/22
       z
                              .7/20

                          6/15
                        11/20
                     4/21

         10

                     10        20         30
                       TEMPERATURE, OC
                             9/29
                           5/22
                        P65
<pb n="32" />

                                                                      JET                                    T            PT

                                                                                                               15 10
                                                                                                            20

                                                                                        30
                                             20 -
                                                                               31
                                                                 2

                                                                                                  FLOOD STAGE

                                              40-

                                                                                                5

                                               C-

                                                                                          2015           05
                                                               32        31 25
                                                              33                                  EBB STAGE
                                               40-

                                                                                              SALN" Ma)
                                                                                          CoLUVBA FaVER MOUTH
                                                                                               AUGUST IO-CZ

                   1,q
<pb n="33" />

                                      STRAIT        OF JUAN          DE FUCA
                   A
            SrA *V. 770       rat                  M4          ?as

                 0

                         ode              no,,
                50                                                             .40
                                                                                                               %%%

                                                                                     do
               100                                                    .2D                                            %
            w                                                              %   .25-"
            w                                                                                      ADMIRALTY INLET
                              Go                                                                         SILL

            z  150
                                                                 VICTOPdA-GR N PT
                                                                       SI LL

            8200

              2.50-

               300
<pb n="34" />

                                          STRAIT OF JUAN- DE FUCA
                     A

                                                                                                             Wo
                                                                                                                             Am

                                                                            50

                                                       .50
                50-                                                               .50

                                          749;

                                                                                 --:45..,                    ADMIRALTY INLET
                                                                                                                   SILL
                150                                                    VICTOPJA-GREEN PT
                                                                             SILL

               300-
<pb n="35" />

                                                                         lu!Od JOiPd

                                                                            CQ
                                              S8313W     NI  Hld3G
<pb n="36" />

                                         L J
<pb n="37" />

                                                                                                  DATE DUE

                                                                               GAYLORD No. 2333                                PRIMED IN U.S.A.

                                                                                COASTAL ZONE
                                                                                WORNAMON CEWER

                                                                                         36668141
</text>
</doc>
