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40ne - forrna 4"@' tion 4. Center JAN 24 19ib Beach Processes on the Oregon Coast MY, 1973 00 C'348-rAj Tog kkv. I 1ff6j4;,gj0,q Cr TER by WILLIAM T. FOX, Williams College RICHARD A. DAVIS, JR., UNIVERSITY OF SOUTH FLORIDA Nearshore Currents July A Augus-t, 1973 o Nil 1,1.111'1111---'g@ 3 @A trough ........... rip forebar Z 0 f eet 400 0 meters 100 A TECHNICAL REPORT UNDER THE GB OFFICE OF NAVAL RESEARCH IN% 459.5 REPORT NUMBER 12 M5 CONTRACT NONR-388-092 F69 WILLIAMS COLLEGE no. 12 40ne - tion 't"Or r C e t @Ite UNIVER U A ApproVed for public relocaw, I)Lorila@n Unlimited U DEPARTMENT OF COMMERCE NOAA COASTAL SERVICES CENTER 2234 SOUTH HOBSON AVENUE -2413 CHARLESTON SC 29405 BEACH PROCESSES ON THE OREGON COAST, JULY, 1973 :2@ AxvxqTq OSO ;o A2xqaoX4 by William T. Fox and Richard A. Davis, Jr. Technical Report No. 12, August 30, 1974 of ONR Task No. 388-092/10-18-68(414) Contract N00014-69-C-0151 Office of Naval Research Geography Branch Williams College Williamstown, Massachusetts This report has been made possible through support and sponsorship by the United States Department of the Navy, Office of Naval Research, under ONR Task Number 388-092, Contract N00014-69-C-0151. Repro- duction in whole or in part is permitted for any- purpose by,the United States Government. @22 FORWARD This report is the twelfth in a series of technical reports by W. T. Fox and R. A. Davis, Jr. based on detailed beach and nearshore studies. The ultimate goal of the long term project is to learn enough aboutprocesses and responses in different coastal environments so that reason- able predictions can be made about changes which take place in the nearshore environment. The final aim is a computer simulation model with weather data as input and beach maps as output. The first eight technical reports covered various aspects of data collection and analysis as well as con- ceptual and computer models for the eastern shore of Lake Michigan. The ninth technical report covered Mustang Island, Texas, the tenth was on Sheboygan, Wisconsin and the eleventh on Cedar Island, Virginia. The present report is based on a 45-day study on the central Oregon coast dur- ing the summer of 1973. The coastal orientation is similar to the eastern shore of Lake Michigan, but large tidal range, high waves and broad intertidal zone provide sig- nificant contrasts. ellC ABSTRACT During July and August, 1973, a 45-day time-series study was undertaken on the central Oregon coast to relate weather and wave conditions to beach erosion and sand bar migration. The summer weather pattern was dominated by the East-Pacific subtropical high which produced winds and waves from the northwest and extended periods of upwelling and coastal fog. When low pressure systems moved through, wind and waves shifted to the southwest. Waves were 1 to 3 meters high with periods of 5 to 9 seconds. Rip currents and southward flowing longshore currents reached 90 centi- meters/second in the surf zone. Tide range was 2 to 4 meters. Three beaches were mapped at low tide to show changes in beach and bar morphology through time. At South Beach, Oregon two sets of bars with intervening rip channels ad- vanced shoreward at 1 to 5 meters/day and southward at 10 to 15 meters/day. At Beverly Beach, Oregon, a basalt ridge 700 meters offshore resulted in wave diffraction and sand deposition in the central portion of the beach. A rip channel at the south end of the beach moved 300 meters to the south. At Gleneden Beach, cusps 40 meters long were cut into the steep foreshore. A rhythmic topography with bars and rip channels existed in the nearshore. Sand bars advanced across the rip channels at 5 meters/day and welded onto the base of the foreshore. V ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS The support and cooperation of the Office of Naval Research is gratefully acknowledged. Student field assistants Dave Lehman, Dave McTigue and Erik Thorp of Williams College rose with the sun for pre-dawn beach profiles. The School of Oceanography at Oregon State University assisted in several aspects of the project. Paul Komar arranged for sabbatical leave for W. T. Fox at O.S.U. and joined in many helpful discussions concerning methods and results. Clayton Creech and Dave Zoph made available the wind and wave data at the O.S.U. Marine Science Center at Newport, Oregon. Marty Miller and Cary Rea helped profile during the fall and winter storms. Special thanks go to Cynthia Howard for typing and proofreading the manuscript. TABLE OF CONTENTS INTRODUCTION ........ ................................... 1 Study Area ........................... #...... * ...... 2 Environmental Setting .............................. 2 Previous Studies ................................... 4 FIELD OBSERVATIONS ..................... # ................ 7 Barometric Pressure and Weather .................... 7 Wind Speed and Direction ........................... 8 Wave Characteristics ............................... 14 Wave Steepness ..................................... 18 Wave Energy ........................................ 20 Tides ..... 22 Nearshore and Longs re Curre s 26 NEARSHORE TOPOGRAPHY .................................... 33 Mapping Programs ................................... 33 South Beach, Oregon ................................ 34 Beverly Beach ...................................... 48 Gleneden Beach ..................................... 52 SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS ................................. 59 REFERENCES CITED ........................................ 60 iv BEACH PROCESSES ON THE OREGON COAST, JULY, 1973 INTRODUCTION Broad sand beaches and rugged volcanic headlands characterize the spectacularly beautiful Oregon coast. In the summer, a series of low sand bars and rip channels are active at high tide and exposed at low tide. At high tide, the waves and currents shift the sand, forming new bars and destroying old ones. Fall and winter storms with waves up to 10 meters high strip a large portion of sand from the beaches forming offshore bars and leaving rock terraces exposed in many places. With the return of spring and summer, the sand bars move onshore replenishing the beach. During the summer, the waves are generally 1 to 3 meters high and the coast is often shrouded in fog. Notth winds blowing along the shore cause frequent upwelling of deep, cold water giving rise to the coastal fog. Although the water is usually too cold to be enjoyed by swimmers, agate,hunters and driftwood collectors frequently roam the beaches. Large estuaries on major rivers and coastal streams reduce the supply of sand to the beaches. In an attempt to preserve coastal properties, sea walls are often placed along the base of a cliff or groins set normal to the beach to stop erosion. A more reasonable solution to beach erosion is to understand the processes involved and to live with the sea instead of trying to conquer it. To expand our understanding of coastal processes and beach erosion, two time series studies were undertaken along the Oregon Coast. During the summer of 1973, a short term study (6 weeks) was completed and a long term study (1 year) was initiated. For the short term study, weather and wave conditions at Newport, Oregon were recorded at 1 hour inter- vals and 3 beaches were surveyed once every 3 days. In this study, it was possible to correlate significant changes in beach topography with wave activity at different times in the tidal cycle. In the summer, the waves are relatively small and rapid changes take place in the beach and inter- tidal bar configuration. For the year long study, weather and wave conditions were monitored 4 times each day and the beach was surveyed once every two weeks at low spring tide. Steady rains, high winds and large waves make the working conditions on the beach difficult and dangerous during the winter. Study Area The central Oregon coast consists of a series of volcanic headlands separated by broad beaches covering wave- cut terraces (Figure 1). The volcanic headlands are formed by ring dikes, sills and basalt flows which form cliffs, arches and sea-stacks. Tertiary sedimentary rocks ranging from conglomerates to siltstones make up the bedrock of the area. During the Pleistocene, wave-cut surfaces were formed in the tertiary bedrock when the sea was higher in an inter- glacial stage (Figure 2). A pebble conglomerate is usually present at the base of the terrace deposits and is overlain by up to 3 meters of beach and dune sediments. A broad wave-cut terrace has been cut into the tertiary bedrock and forms a platform for the present day beach (Figure 2). In the summer, the wave-cut terrace is covered with a thin veneer of sand from 1 to 3 meters thick. Intertidal sand bars advance across the beach during quiet wave conditions. During the late fall and winter storms, much of the sand is stripped from the beaches, and large sand bars are formed below the low tide level. In the spring and summer, the bars move onshore and replenish the sand lost during the winter storms. Maps of the beach and nearshore topography were made at 3 day intervals to study the effects of waves and currents on the beach and bar configuration. The primary study site was located on a wide, flat beach at South Beach, Oregon about 3 kilometers (2 miles) south of the jetty at Newport (Figure 1). A second site was located at Beverly Beach about 12 kilometers P miles) north of the Newport jetty. At Beverly Beach, a rock ledge is exposed about 750 meters (2400 feet) offshore and resulted in a protuberance on the beach behind the ledge. The third site was located at Gleneden Beach at the south end of Siletz Spit and 35 kilometers (21 miles) north of the Newport jetty. The beach at Gleneden has a well developed berm with prominent cusps cut into a steep foreshore. Observations were also made at Ona State Park about 16 kilometers (10 miles) south of the Newport jetty where Beaver Creek enters the Pacific Ocean. A map was also made of Greys Harbor Beach, Washington, where a large ridge and runnel system was formed on the beach. Environmental Setting The central Oregon coast runs in a .north-south di- rection and is fully exposed to the waves from the north and south Pacific. During the summer, the East Pacific sub- 2 Lincoln City 0 5 IOkm 0 imi GLENEDEN BEACH __JSTUDY FrZ R AREA tQ * 1-:13EACH VOLCANIC HEADLANDS BEVERLY B C EA H OREGON Newport YA R. SOUTH BEACH Figure 1. Location map of 1973 study sites at Gleneden Beach, Beverly Beach and South Beach, Oregon. 3 tropical high builds up off the Oregon coast. The clockwise air flow around the high channels winds from the north along the coast. The north winds produce almost constant up- welling which is often accompanied by coastal fog. When low pressure systems move through the area, the wind shifts briefly to the southwest and the upwelling is interrupted for a short time. During the summer months, the waves are generally locally generated and are related to the passage of low pressure systems. The waves which are 1 to 3 meters high approach the shore generally from the northwest. At low tide, a southward flowing longshore current is formed on the seaward edge of the sand bars. At mid-tide, the local topography of the sand bars influences the longqhore cur- rent and rip currents are generated at low points between the bars. At high tide, the sand bars are submerged and the longshore current once again moves to the south, but along the upper beach. When low pressure systems pass over, the waves shift to the southwest and the longshore currents move to the north along the beach. Tides have a strong influence on coastal processes along the Oregon coast. A mixed diurnal-semidiurnal tide with a spring tide range of 4.8 meters and a neap tide range of 2.0 meters is present on the beaches. At spring tides, the influence'of waves is spread across the entire beach, while at neap tides, it is restricted to the central portion. Previous Studies Time series studies on the beach environment have been conducted at Virginia Beach, Virginia by Harrison and Krumbein (1964), Harrison et al., (1968) and Harrison (1969). A group from the Coastal SEU'd-iies Institute at Louisiana State University including Dolan, Ferm and McArthur (1969), Sonu and Russell (1966) and Sonu, McCloy and McArthur (1966) carried out similar studies on the outer banks of North Carolina. A model was developed to account for the cycles observed in beach profiles (Sonu and Bech, 1971) which was later expanded into a Markov model of beach cycles (Sonu and James, 1973). Studies have also been conducted along the beach at Eglin Air Force Base near Fort Walton Beach, Florida (Sonu, 1972). The techniques in the present study were applied to the ridge and runnel topography on Plum Island, Massachusetts by Abele (1973). The present report is part of a continuing series of studies by Fox and Davis to develop a generalized com- puter simulation model of coastal processes. During the 4 rt ct (D (D ts (D pi (D 0 F-h Fl 0 En O(a Ff) )-h 0- 0 L9 !@o N cr CL CA, summers of 1969 and 1970, data were collected at Stevens- ville, and Holland, Michigan (Fox and Davis, 1970 and 1971a) to construct a computer simulation model (Fox and Davis, 1971b and 1973a). Field studies were undertaken on the coast of Texas (Davis and Fox, 1972) and the west coast of Lake Michigan near-Sheboygan, Wisconsin (Fox and Davis, 1973b). During the summer of 1973, field studies were completed on the Delmarva Peninsula in Virginia and on the Oregon coast, where tides and ocean swells have a great in- flu'ence. 6 FIELD OBSERVATIONS During the summer of 1973, field observations were made of weather conditions and coastal processes along the central Oregon coast for 45 days from July 1 through August 14, 1973. Hourly readings for barometric pressure, wind speed and direction, air temperature, humidity and tide level were taken from continuously recording instruments at the U.S. Weather Station located in the Oregon State Uni- versity Marine Science Center at Newport, Oregon. Wave period and height were derived from microseismograph records at the Marine Science Center. Direct wave observations in- cluding breaker height, period and angle were made twice each day at 0800 and 2000 in the surf at the South Beach study site. When the survey crew was not at another beach site, wave observations were also made on South Beach at 1400. Along with each set of wave measurements, the speed and direction of the littoral current were recorded at South Beach. The littoral current was measured at three locations along the beach to include the effect of rip currents. The rip currents were strongly influenced by local beach topog- raphy and change position each day with rising and falling tides. The observed data is given in Appendix A. Barometric Pressure and Weather During the summer months, the weather pattern on the Oregon coast is dominated by the East Pacific sub- tropical high. The high, which is often situated a few hun- dred kilometers off the coast, influences the flow of wind and weather patterns along the shore. The plots of observed and filtered curves for barometric pressure show several weak lows which moved across the area (Figure 3a). The low points on the barometric pressure curves represent fronts which moved in from the Pacific or up from California. The major frontal systems which had an effect on the local winds and waves passed over the coast on July 5 through 7, and August 6, 1973 (Figure 3a). The barometric pressure ranged from a low of 1013.2 millibars on July 16 to a high of 1026.2 on July 11. During the 45 days of observation, the air tempera- ture varied from a low of 71C (45*f) to a high of 22'C (72*f) (Figure 3b). The air temperatures are affected by fog or cloud cover and wind conditions. The lowest temperature was recorded during the early morning hours of July 1 and 2, when the sky was very clear and still. As a high pressure system moved into the area, the air temperature rose. When a low moved in on July 7, the night temperature dropped to 7 the low fifties while the day temperatures reached in the low sixties. From July 8 through 16, the range in daily temperatures increased to lows in the mid-forties and highs in the upper sixties. On July 17, a fog bank built up along the shore due to coastal upwelling accompanying strong north winds. During the upwelling, the water temperature dropped from 14.40C to 6.6'C (58*f to 44*f) within two days. The coastal fog developed from the contrast in air and water temperature. During breaks in the fog from July 25 through 30, the diurnal temperature range increased. The highest temperature, 22.20C (72*f) occurred on the afternoon of July 27. When the fog returned, the afternoon high settled down to the mid-sixties, more normal for a summer day on the Oregon coast. Wind Speed and Direction . Data for wind speed and direction were obtained from an anemometer located at South Beach, Oregon on the south bank of the Yaquina River across from the town of Newport. Wind speed and direction were measured with a 3-cup anem- ometer and twin-tail vane placed at the back of the beach on top of the winter berm. The sensor is about 20 meters above mean sea level and 9 meters above the ground, approxi- mately 100 meters east of high water on the beach. North of the jetties and south of the site, wide sand beaches extend for several kilometers in an approximately north-south di- rection. High bluffs occur behind the beach to the north whereas lower bluffs are found to the south. The sensors are located such that a due-north wind is almost parallel to the shore and has an overwater trajectory. Signals from the anemometer are transmitted on an underground cable to the Oregon State University Marine Science Center, where they are recorded on an Esterline Argus chart recorder. Readings for this study were taken from the chart recorder at 1 hour intervals for 45 days giving a total of 1080 ob- servations. During July and August, the surface winds on the Oregon coast are dominated by the eastern Pacific subtropical high (Frye, Pond and Elliot, 1972). This high generally produced strong north-to-northwest surface winds, which in turn produce intense coastal upwelling. A diurnal variation in wind speed due to an apparent sea breeze effect is super- imposed on the northerly flow. When a low pressure trough moves across the coast, the wind shifts over to the south- west for a short period of time before returning to the dominant north-northwest flow. The wind speed reached a maximum of 15 meters/ A.- BAROMETRIC PRESSURE 1025- 1020- 1015- #A 1025- 1020- 1015- 30 1 2 JULY, 1973 AUGUST B. AIR TEMPERATURE 20 65- Of 60- -15 'C 55- -io 70- -20 Of 60- -15 It 50- 10 I "T-T-r-r-r-r-r-r- 10 20 30 1 1@ JULY, 1973 AUGUST C. COASTAL FOG Figure 3. Smoothed and observed curves for (A) barometric pressure and (B) air temperature, and (C) bar graph for coastal fog at Newport, Oregon. 9 WIND SPEED 10 20- -5 0 101 ... . ... . %................ ............. ....... .- ............. ................ .................... ............. . ................ .. 0 -0 0 30- 15 $A """ 20- -10 0 C (D E 10- -5 0 r -0 1 20 30 1 10 JULY, 1973 AUGUST -5 B ONSHORE WIND 5 0 0 0 - 10- 5 0 lilly LF 10 0 0 rl @l I IW if r I I E lr--r-r--r-T-r-@li I i i iI 7--r I IIT--r T- T- r- 10 20 301 10 U UGU J LY 1973 ST A Figure 4. Smoothed and observed curves for (A) wind speed and (B) onshore component of the wind at Newport, Oregon. 10 N 30% 20,%, An Wind Direction W E S N 30% 2 0 Be Nearshore Currents W E S Figure 5. (A) Wind and (B) current rose diagrams for July 1 through August 15, 1973 at Newport, Oregon. second (30 knots) at 1700 on 12 July 1973 (Figure 4a). The mean wind speed for the 45 days was 4 meters/second with the highest velocities recorded on 12 and 25 July. The high wind velocities resulted from circulation around high pres- sure areas located a few hundred miles off the Oregon coast. The diurnal nature of the wind can be seen in the observed curve for July and August (Figure 4). A wind rose was plotted for the wind data from 1 July through 14 August 1973 (Figure 5a). The shoreline is oriented north-south with the Pacific Ocean to the west. The wind blew within 15* on either side of north (345* to 15*) for 52.3 percent of the time, and 30* either side of north (330* to 300) for 59.5 percent of the time. The wind blew out of the east (75* to 1050) for 4.5 percent of the time and out of the southwest (1800 to 2551) for 21 percent. The onshore-offshore winds are the result of the sea breeze effect which is often dominated by strong north or southwest winds. The southwest winds occur when warm fronts move through the area causing a counterclockwise flow around the low pressure center. The onshore and longshore components are plotted to show the effect of wind direction as well as wind speed (Figures 4b and 6). To compute the longshore component of the wind, the observed wind speed (Figure 4a) was multiplied by the cosine of the wind direction. Therefore, a north wind is positive and a south wind is negative. To compute the onshore wind component, the wind speed was multiplied by the negative sine of the wind direction. An onshore wind from the west would be positive and an offshore wind from the east would be negative. The longshore component of the wind (Figure 6) blows out of the north most of the time as shown in the wind rose (Figure 5a). on July 1, a high dominated the weather pattern with winds about 12.5 meters/second out of the north. From 2 July through 8 July, a weak front stalled offshore with the southwest winds reaching 6 meters/second on 8 July. From 9 July through 15 July, north winds swept along the shore. On 10 July, the longshore component of the wind reached almost 15 meters/second. From 16 through 21 July, a low pressure system moved up from California and displaced the eastern Pacific subtropical high producing winds of 3 to 4 meters/second from the south and southwest. The longest continuous period of north winds occurred for 18 days between 22 July and 8 August 1973. A weak low which attempted to move up from California on 28 July, decreased the north component of the wind, but did not-displace the subtropical high. 12 LONGSHORE WIND 20- -10 north 0 ................ -5 ........ ..... ................. C 10- ................ ............... ..................... .......... .. . ..... ............... ...... ............. ...... ............. ....................... .... ........................ ............................... ................... ... ...................................... ........ ......... ................. ............. ............ ...................... ............ . ..........x ...... ..... . ... ...... ..... A ..................................... . ..................... 0@ F0 I South 30- 15 - north 20- -10 a 0 IIA (A 0 C 10- 5 0- -0 E south -10- 11111111111111111111ITTIll 111111 .III L -.5 20 30 1 10 JULY, 1973 AUGUST Figure 6. Smoothed and observed curves for longshore component of the wind at Newport, Oregon. 13' Fronts moved across the coast from the north Pacific on 9 and 13 August resulting in weak southwest winds on the 9th and stronger south winds at 5 meters/second on 12 and 13 August. The longshore winds show a definite diurnal component increasing in the afternoon and dropping off at night. The sea-breeze pattern is deflected along the coast by the large difference in land and water temperature. The onshore component of the wind shows a fairly regular pattern (Figure 4b) reaching a maximum onshore wind of 5 meters/second in the afternoon with 1.5 to 2.5 meter/ second breeze at night. on 11 and 24 July, the offshore . component reached 2.5 to 4 meters/second. The highest off- shore component accompanied the strongest winds out of the north which did not completely die out at night. Normally, one would expect a sea and land-breeze to show a 12 hour pattern with the onshore breeze increasing in the afternoon and the offshore breeze picking up in the evening. How- ever, along the northwest Pacific Coast of the United States, the diurnal wind field is superimposed on the sub- tropical high and the result is a strong 24 hour rather than 12 hour periodicity in the wind speed (Frye, Pond and Elliott, 1972, p. 673). The cold surface waters dropping to 70C during upwelling would tend to inhibit the develop- ment of a land breeze at night. Wave Characteristics Ocean wave periods and heights were derived from seismograph records at the Marine Science Center. The seismograph was operated by Mr. Clayton Creech under the di- rection of Dr. David Zopf of the School of oceanography, Oregon State University. The following information con- cerning the seismic records was obtained from Creech and Zopf (Creech, 1973). Theory developed by Longuet-Higgins (1950) predicts that a standing wave will result from the interference of incident and reflected waves on a sloping beach. The stand- ing waves produce a pressure field on the ocean bottom which will generate seismic waves propagating in a horizontal plane. The amplitude of the seismic motion is linearly re- lated to the pressure field apd has twice the frequency of the incoming ocean waves. The amplitude on the seismograph is related to wave height by equation 1: Ho = r P (1) K 14 where H is the deep water wave height, r is the peak-to- peak deflection on the recorder chart, P is the seismic wave period and K is an empirically derived constant. Based on this theory, a long-period vertical seismometer was in- stalled at the Marine Science Center in May 1971, The seismometer rests directly on a concrete pad which forms the floor of the center building. The building is on 45 feet of unconsolidated sediment and fill overlying basalt bedrock. The sediment layer extends 1.5 miles across the beach and intertidal zone. The seismometer is a portable commercial unit (Teledyre-Geotech Mod. SL-210) designed for geophysical surveys. It has an adjustable natural period-of 10-30 sec- onds and has been automatically programmed to produce 12 minute records at 6 hour intervals. Readings from the seismometer were calibrated using visual observations from the shore, a pressure transducer on the ocean bottom, and a Ross Fine-line fathometer. There is a good correlation between the wave heights and periods derived from the seis- mometer and the observed and measured heights and periods (Creech, 1973). Significant wave height is the average wave height for the upper one-third of the waves based on the seismograph records (Figure 7a). During the 45 day study, the signifi- cant wave height varied from a minimum of 0.66 meter (1.2 feet) on July 2 to a maximum of 2.0 meters (6.5 feet) on July 16. The mean significant wave height was 0.85 meters. The plot of significant wave height shows a general increase for the first 16 days, then a period of low waves for the remainder of the study with sm'all peaks of about 1.2 meters on July 26 and August 8, 1973. The curve for breaker height was derived from the significant wave height and therefore, closely resembles the significant wave height, but is 1.28 times as high (Figure 7b). Several of the peaks in the breaker height curve are aligned with the low points in the barometric pressure curves (Figure 8). There is no apparent close correspondence between the wave height curves and the curves for wind speed - (Figures 4 and 7). The first major peak in the wind speed curve occurs on July 13 as the barometric pressure was falling. The wind was blowing strongly out of the north parallel to the shore and wave heights reached about 1.8 meters. From July 13 to July 16, the wind speed dropped from 15 to 3.meters/second, but the wave heights increased to 2.-0 meters. From July 16 through 21, the winds blew out of the southwest at about 3 meters/second and the wave heights dropped off to about 0.6 meters. Waves on the 16th were fairly long period swells. The small spike on the wave record for July 26 may have resulted from the 14 meters/ 15 - SIGNIFICANT WAVE HEIGHT 6- 4- E 2- 6- 4- E 2- 10 20 30 1 JULY, 1973 AUGUST 8- BREAKER HEIGHT 6- -2 - OA 4- E 2- 8- 4- E 2. 20 JULY, 1973 AUGUST Figure 7. Smoothed and observed curves for (A) significant wave height and (B) breaker height at Newport, Oregon. Barometric Pressure 1025- 1020 1015 8- Breaker Height -2 6- 04- ... . ........... E 2 JULY, 1973 AUGUST Figure 8. Smoothed curves showing alignment of lows in barometric pressure with peaks in the breaker height curve. 17 T- second winds which blew along the shore. The next period of high waves occurred on August 6 and is again related to a drop in the local wind speed. Toward the end of the study, the waves picked up again to about 1.1 meters. Wave period derived from the seismometer records varied from 5.2 to 9.0 seconds with a mean of 7.4 seconds (Figure 9). During the first half of the study, the wave periods ranged from about 6 to 9 seconds with an average of 7.5 seconds. Higher wave periods between 8 and 9 seconds represent swells which were probably generated hundreds of kilometers from the study area. The high waves on July 13 and 16 had fairly long periods. The 1.2 meter waves on July 26, however had periods of about 6 seconds and are probably locally generated wind waves. From July 26 through August 4, the waves remained fairly small with short periods, although the winds were over 10 meters/second along the coast. When the wave heights picked up again on August 6 and 10, the wave periods were also over 8 seconds. Wave Steepness Wave steepness, which is the ratio of the wave height to its length, is considered by many to be a critical factor in determining whether erosion or deposition will take place on the beach. Two different wave steepness calcula- tions must be considered in dealing with beach erosion. Offshore wave steepness is computed from the significant wave height and the deep water wave length, which is 1.56 times the square of the wave period. Breaker steepness, on the other hand, is much higher since the waves increase in height and decrease in length as they approach the shore. For most of the laboratory experiments where steepness is considered, the offshore wave steepness is used. It would seem however, that the breaker steepness should be used, be- cause the sediment transport is taking place in the breaker zone. Since it has not been resolved which steepness value should be used, plots for both offshore wave steepness and breaker steepness are included (Figures 10a and b). In computing breakers steepness, it is necessary to compute the shallow water wave length according to equation 2: L = L, tanh 27rd (2) L where L is the shallow water wave lengthPL, is the deep water wave length and d is the breaker d t in shallow water. Since L appears on both sides of the equation, it 18 9- WAVE PERIOD 8- 7- 6-i 9- 8- 7- 10 20 30 1 10 JULYI 1973 AUGUST Figure 9. Smoothed and observed curves for wave period at Newport, Oregon. 19 is necessary to use an iterative method to obtain an approxi- mate solution. For the first step of the iteration, the deep water wave length, Lot is substituted for L on the right hand side of the equation giving equation 3: L L tanh 2 7Td (3) 0 Lo then, the computed value for L is substituted on the right hand side, and a new approximaiion for the shallow water wave length L2 is obtained according to equation 4: L L tanh 2Trd (4) 2 0 L 1 By repeating the iterative process 20 times, the value for L converges on the true value of the shallow water wave length. The plots for offshore wave steepness and breaker steepness closely resemble each other in overall shape, but .have significantly different absolute values (Figure 10). Offshore wave steepness varies from a minimum of 0.004 to a maximum of 0.021 with a mean of 0.01. As the waves move into the surf zone, the wave height is increased and wave length is decreased, causing a significant rise in breaker steepness. Breaker steepness ranged from a low of 0.020 to a high of 0.100 with a mean of 0.046. In general, the breaker steepness ranged from about 0.03 to 0.05, with peaks of 0.09 on July 13 and 0.10 on July 16. Lower peaks of 0.07 were recorded on July 26 and August 6. Offshore wave steep- ness was of course much lower. The highest values of off- shore wave steepness 0.021 occurred on July 13 with lower peak values on July 16. The peak in breaker steepness on July 16 is higher for offshore stee pness, but the peak for August 6 is lost in the background noise for offshore steep- ness. Wave Energy Wave energy is probably the best indicator of the amount of work the waves can do on a beach. In general, wave steepness determines whether the waves will be constructive or destructive, and wave energy gives an estimate of the magnitude of the work that can be done in a given length of time. According to small amplitude wave theory, the amount of energy, E, in foot pounds per linear foot of wave crest in a single wave is given by equation 5: 20 .02 A WAVE STEEPNESS .01- .02- .01- 20 30 1 JULY, 1973 AUGUST .10- BREAKER STEEPNESS .05- 10- .05- 30 1 JULY, 1973 AUGUST Figure 10. Smoothed and observed curves for (A) offshore wave steepness and (B) breaker steepness at Newport, Oregon. 21 E = wLH 2 (5) 8 where w is the weight of one cubic foot of water (64 pounds). Since the wave energy depends on the square of the wave height, it increases exponentially as the significant wave height is increased. This equation can be applied to waves of low amplitude in deep water. Energy can be computed for shoaling waves according to Gerstner's theory which includes rotational water motion (King, 1972). The energy equation for waves of finite height is: 2 2 E = wLH (1 - 4.93 H (6) 8 -2 L The curve for wave energy (Figure 11) closely resem- bles the curve for breaker height (Figure 7), with high and low points in the same positions. Because wave energy is a function of the square of the breaker height, the maxima on the wave energy curve are exaggerated and emphasize inter- vals of high waves which have the greatest effect on beach erosion. The maximum wave energy was 19,203 foot pounds per linear foot of beach on July 16 and the mean was 3,556 foot pounds. Tides Tides on the Oregon coast have an important influence on beach processes. With a small beach slope and large tidal range, the effect of wave action is spread across a broad portion of the beach. During spring tides, the beach is about 300 meters (1000 feet) wide at low tide and less than 10 meters (30 feet) wide at high tide. The Oregon coast has a mixed diurnal-semidiurnal tide with spring tide range of 4.0 meters and a neap tide range of 2.0 meters (Figure 12). The diurnal inequality of the tides is greatest at spring tide when the lower low tide is 1.4 meters lower than the higher low tide. There appears to be a greater inequality between the low tides than be- tween the high tides. The largest spring tides occurred on July 1 and July 30, with smaller spring tides on July 14 and August 14. Tide data at hourly intervals were extracted from a recording gauge located on the Oregon State Univer- sity Marine Science Center dock on Yaquina Bay. The observed heights were adjusted to mean lower low water (MLLW) which is the datum used for soundings on Pacific coast nautical charts. The MLLW is 1.44 meters (4.73 feet) below mean sea level based on the 1929 datum and 1.375 meters (4.51 feet) 22 20 WAVE ENERGY 15 M 0 lo- x 5- 0 20- 0 15- 10- 5- -III IIITI it I Ir-1111 lilt-till 111111IT-1 20 30 1 10 JULY, 1973 AUGUST Figure 11. Smoothed and observed curves for wave energy at Newport, Oregon. 23 PREDICTED TIDE -3 -2 6- 4 - 2- E 0- 1 -0 -2- 6- STORM SURGE OBSERVED TIDE 8- -2 6- 4- W E 2 -0 0- -2- 10 0 30 1 10 JULY, 1973 AUGUST Figure 12. (A) Predicted tideo (B) storm surge and (C) observed tide in Yaquina Bay at Newportp Oregon. 24 PERCENT OF BEACH SUBMERGED -0 m .0, s $ -4 w w 01 9 9 ................ xx ....... .............. LQ ......... . . ............. 0,*,.-.*..,*.*,*.***O*@*:,.**.".".:***.e,.,.% ........... ............. .. ..... . . ............ ...... ........... ................. ... ... :j LQ M ..... . ...... . . ... ....... . ..... .. m . .... .. 0 m . . - ..* . ....... ... -h rt, ..... ..... ... ............. ......................... ....... 0. .................... x . ...... ........... .... ..... z ... . ..... . fD (D ........ ........... ............. ....... ................. Ln x .............. pt Xx ... ...... ........ .. . ... (D H ........ X ........... Lo LQ ................. . ...... . 0 (D .* . . ....... .. .. ..................... . ........... . 10 . . .... ......... . X Nee .. .... .... .......... ............. ............... .. ............... ......... ............... ... . .. .. ............................ .. . ........... ...... . ... .. ...... .. :J ...... ......... . .... . . .... ... . .................. ..... ....... ..... ........... ... .. .. . ........... . ... ..... .... ..................... ................................... . ....... .. . .. . ...... :x .............. .. ...... . BAR 8 TROUGH TOPOGRAPHY-------x- FORESHORE below the local mean sea level based on the hourly height readings. Mean high tide is 2.32 meters (7.61 feet) and mean low tide is 0.47 meters (1.54 feet) above MLLW. In the analysis of beach erosion and deposition, the most important aspect of the tides is the percentage of beach area submerged at different times during the monthly tidal cycle (Figure 13). The beach which is about 300 meters wide at the study site near South Beach is considered 100 percent exposed or 0 percent submerged at low spring tide. At high spring tide when the beach is 10 meters wide, it is considered 100 percent submerged. The beach surface is concave upwards with a steeper slope of about 1:35 on the forebeach and a more gentle slope of about 1:100 in the bar and trough area (Figure 13). At mid-tide about 70 percent of the beach is submerged, so that most of the wave action is concentrated on the upper portion of the beach. The bars and rip channels are formed below mean sea level, while the steeper forebeach is above mean sea level. At neap tide, the beach is 35 percent submerged at low tide and 85 percent submerged at high tide. Nearshore and Longshore Currents Nearshore currents were measured twice each day, at 0800 and 2000, at the South Beach study site. On days when the South Beach area was being surveyed for beach maps, nearshore current observations were also made at 1400. A plastic "whiffle ball" attached to a 15 meter nylon line was used to measure the surface speed and direction of the currents. The wiffle ball was released in the surf zone and the time and azimuth was recorded for the ball to travel 15 meters. Nearshore current observations were made at 3 loca- tions in the surf zone in a depth of one meter. For most of the study, a rip current was present between two bars about 200 meters south of the north end of the study area. Therefore, current measurements were made in the center of the rip channel, 30 meters north, and 30 meters south of the rip. With the changes in water depth during the daily tidal cycle, the currents could be sampled at dif- ferent positions acros's the beach. A nearshore current experiment was conducted on August 4, 1973 to show the pattern of currents on a 30 meter grid spacing in the bar and trough region (Figure 14a). The experiment was held during a rising tide at about mid- tide when waves were approaching from the northwest. On the forebar or seaward edge of the sand bar, the current 26 Littoral Current August 4, 1973 0 3 Z 0 3 0 0 f eet 400 feet/sec. m/sec. Nearshore Currents July & August, 1973 f e hore 3 trough rip forebar off--nniiiiii I 0 f eet 400 0 meters 100 Figure 14. Maps of (A) littoral current vectors in the surf zone on August 4, and (B) current roses for current direction in the foreshore, trough, bar, forebar and rip currents for July and August at South Beach, Oregon. 27 was flowing to the south at 60 centimeters/second. over the bar, the current flowed at 80 centimeters/second at an angle to the bar due to the influence of wave action. In the trough shoreward of the bar, the current moved to the south at 50 centimeters/second and out the rip channel at about 60 centimeters/second. On the foreshore, the current velocity dropped to 20 centimeters/second and was directed up the beach. The overall current pattern in the experiment showed a longshore transport both sea- ward and shoreward of the bar, with onshore transport across the bar, and offshore transport in the rip between the bars. The highest velocities were recorded on the bar and in the rip channel, with the lowest velocities on the foreshore. Current roses are plotted for currents on the fore- bar, bar, rip channel, trough and foreshore using all the directional data from July and August, 1973 (Figure 14b). The map for August 4 was used for the littoral current ex- periment and also as a base for plotting the current roses. on the forebar, the current directions are predominately to the south with some reversals to the north. The current reversals were due to changes in wave direction from north- west to southwest. on the bar, the current directions are shifted shoreward due to the influence of breaking waves. In the trough, the north-south current direction returns, but the spread in current directions is greater than on the forebar. In the rip channel, the current is directed offshore to the southwest, with some currents straight off- shore and to the northwest. On the foreshore, the current directions are much more varied, again showing the effect of waves surging toward the shore. There is a close similarity between the current pat- tern shown by the littoral current experiment conducted on August 4, 1973, and the plot of current roses for the di- rectional data collected during July and August. Although the bars shifted position somewhat during the study, the general current pattern persisted for the 45 day period. The vector mean current velocity was plotted to show the change in current velocity through time (Figure 15a). The highest velocity was 92 centimeters/second (3.04 feet/second) at 1400 on August 11. Swift currents were also recorded on July 29 and August 1. There is no apparent close relationship between nearshore current ve- locity (Figure 15a) and breaker height (Figure 7b) as might be expected. Because the current is dominately longshore, stronger currents are developed when the waves approach the shore at a large angle. The larger waves are refracted so that they approach the shore at a smaller angle and gener- ate a slower longshore current. With the proper combination 28 3- NEARSHORE CURRENT '100 2 V ... ...... ... (D 0 100 3- E 2- C l-X %................ .0 10 20 30 1 10 JULY, 1973 AUGUST 2- ONSHORE CURRENT 30 on IN AA f.... tj 0- V V V W- V T qWF -0 V (D off 1 J 3 0 0 n -30 W E 0- 1 w .0 f C I -T-7--r-T-T -r J-r7-T r --30 'j 10 20 30 1 10 JULY, 1973 AUGUST Figure 15. Smoothed and observed curves for (A) nearshore current and (B) onshore component of the current in the surf zone at South Beach, Oregon. 29 of wave angle and breaker height, the fastest longshore cur- rents are generated. The onshore component of the nearshore current was computed from the current velocity and directional data (Figure 15b).- In general, the onshore and offshore com- ponents are less than 30 centimeters/second. The onshore component occurs more frequently than the offshore component due to the shoreward transport of waves. The offshore com- ponent due to rip currents was strongest on July 16 when it reached 25 centimeters/second. The longshore component of the nearshore current was much stronger than the onshore component and reached a maxi- mum of 90 centimeters/second on August ll(Figure 16). The positive longshore current moves to the south and the nega- tive current flows to the north. The northward flowing longshore current was generated when the waves shifted to the southwest. There is a close relationship between longshore wind and longshore current (Figure 17). Lows in barometric pres- sure correspond quite closely to reversals in wind direction and longshore current for the first half of the study. The lows in barometric pressure on July 2, 5 and 17 correspond to changes in wind direction from north to south. The lows in barometric pressure on July 27 and August 4 do not follow the same pattern with corresponding reversals in wind direc- tions. The normal reversal in wind direction is seen with the barometric low on August 12. The lows for July 27 and August 4 moved north along the coast from California and may not have sufficiently displaced the east Pacific sub- tropical high to cause a reversal in wind direction. The longshore current follows the same pattern as the longshore wind, but with a 2 to 3 day lag in direction reversal (Figure 17). The longshore current shifts from north to south on July 7 and 19 following the reversal in wind di- rection on July 5 and 17. The rose diagrams for wind and nearshore currents are also quite similar. In summary, the nearshore current pattern is con- trolled by topography, tidal stage and angle of wave ap- proach. Longshore currents dominate during high and low tide and rip currents are more important during mid-tide. There is a close correspondence with a time lag between re- versals in wind direction and longshore current. The strongest currents are developed when waves of intermediate height approach the shore at a high angle to the beach. 30 4- LONGSHORE CURRENT 100 3- South -50 X. % .......... . ............... ............. . . ............ . 0- north 0 w -14 3- south 2- E 50 north 10 20 30 1 10 JULY, 1973 AUGUST Figure 16. Smoothed and observed curves for the longshore component of the current in the surf zone at South Beach, Oregon. 31 Barometric Pressure 1025 1 020 E 1015] 20 10 Loni --re Wind 0 IX o 10 5 ......... ....... 0 - -0 E Longshore Current -100 3- 2-day lag 3-day lag 0 0 2- -50 xx. 0- -0 10 20 30 1 10 JULY 1973 AUGUST Figure 17. Smoothed curves showing alignment of lows in barometric pressure with reversals in direction of longshore wind and lag in reversals of longshore current. 32 NEARSHORE TOPOGRAPHY mapping Programs Beach and nearshore bar topography was monitored at three study sites, South Beach, Beverly Beach and Gleneden Beach, Oregon (Snavely, MacLeod and Rau, 1969). Maps were made at three or four day intervals depending on the tide and local wave conditions (Davis'and Fox, 1971). At each study site, a baseline was laid out parallel to the shore and as close to the cliff as possible. Nine stakes were placed at 61 meter (200 foot) intervals along the baseline. A third order level line was run along the baseline to establish the elevation at each stake with reference to the first stake in the sequence. To determine the absolute elevation of the baseline, a level line was run from the baseline to mean sea level while sea level elevation was being read at a tide gauge two miles north. Each area was mapped by surveying a series of pro- files from the basel-ine across the beach and as far as pos- sible into the surf. When visibility was good enough to see the horizon, the stake and horizon method was used to estab- lish differences in elevation along each profile, Emery (1961). Two five-foot stakes marked at .003 meter (1/100 of a foot) intervals and a 6.1 meter (20 foot) rope were used for the survey (Figure 18a). By sighting from one stake over the top of the other to the horizon, it is pos- sible to measure the changes in elevation at 6.1 meter in- tervals perpendicular to the baseline. Under foggy condi- tions, a hand level was used in place of the horizon. Secondary stakes were placed along each profile line at 61 and 122 meters (200 and 400 feet) and the baseline. The elevations of the secondary stakes were established by run- ning level lines from the baseline. The secondary stakes were used to provide a line of sight for the profiles, and as a check for.the accuracy of the stake and horizon method. The stake and horizon method proved to be accurate within third order surveying limits (1:500). An attempt was made to time the survey so that it would bracket the lowest tide of the day. Under normal con- ditions without fog, rain or high waves, the survey took about 2-1/2 to 3 hours to complete. Therefore, the survey was normally started about 1-1/2 hours before predicted low tide. When low tide occurred early in the morning or late at night, an attempt was made to at least include low tide within the survey. In more than one instance, the early morning surveys were started in the dark at 4 a.m. and 33 completed before the sun made it over the cliffs. South Beach, Oregon The primary study site at South Beach, Oregon was located about 3 kilometers south of the south jetty at the mouth of the Yaquina River in Newport, Oregon (Figure 1). A 488 meter (1600 foot) baseline was laid out in front of the Sea Vista Motel with the 305 meter (1000 foot) stake at the base of the stairs leading down from the cliff. The north end of the baseline was 30 meters south of Moore Creek and 25 meters from the cliff. The baseline extended to the south and was 2 meters seaward from the base of the cliff at the notch in front of the Sea Vista Motel (Figure 18b). The beach covers a wave-cut terrace and abuts a cliff cut in the Nye Mudstone which is overlain unconform- ably by Pleistocene Marine Terrace deposits (Lund, 1972). In summer, the wave cut terrace is covered with a well- sorted, fine grained sand (Rottman, 1973), but in winter, ledges of more resistant siltstone and.large concretions protrude through the sand (Figure 19a) . In summer, the layer of sand is about 1 to 2 meters thick over the wave cut terrace. Slumpage and landslides were evident at several places along the cliff at South Beach (Figure 19b). South of Ona Beach State Park, about 8 kilometers to the south, the sand was completely removed during the winter leaving a rugged topography with rows of concretions several feet high on the wave cut terrace. At the beginning of the study, two lines of low am- plitude bars were present as shown in the air photo from July 2, 1973 (Figure 20a). The first map of the area was made at spring low tide on July 4, 1973 (Figure 21a). on the maps, the contour interval is in feet with north to the left. The cliff and baseline extend across the top with the Pacific Ocean at the bottom of the map. The contours extend from 8 feet (2.44 m) below to 7 feet (2.13 m) above mean sea level. The beach consists of a gently sloping foreshore above mean sea level and a series of sand bars and rip chan- nels below the mid-tide mark (Figure 21a). The foreshore extending seaward from the baseline to mean sea level has an average slope of 1;30 (Bascom, 1951). A longshore rhythm on the foreshore.has a wavelength of about 400 meters and an amplitude of 1 meter. From 0.5 meters above to 0.5 meters below mean sea level, the beach slope decreases to about 1:60. On July 4, 1973, a small bar was present just below 34 Figure 18a. Surveying across South Beach at low spring tide. Distance between men is 100 feet and beach is 800 feet wide. Figure l8b. Cliff and beach at high tide, South Beach, Oregon. r "60 35 At. i@R 't Figure 19a. Rock ledge exposed on Beverly Beach, January 1, 1973. Figure 19b. Landslide on the cliff at South Beach, January 19, 1973. 36 mean sea level on the 427 meter (1400 foot) profile. Two lines of bars were present below mean sea level on July 4, an inner line about 140 meters and an outer line about 230 meters from the baseline (Figure 21a). The north inner bar, bar A, arches gently southward for about 200 meters. The crest of the bar A 1.3 feet (0.4 meters) below mean sea level. The north outer bar, bar B, at 200 meters from the baseline reaches 60 meters to the south. Bar C, has a broad oval shape and extends south from the 300 meter profile past the edge of the map at the 500 meter profile. Bar D, resembles a prong extending northward from bar C. Since bar D is later separated from bar C, it is considered a separate bar on the initial map. Bar E is a northward extending finger of sand near the center of the map. Rip channels separate bars A and E and bars B and D. Longshore troughs exist in front of bars A, C and E and between bars A and B, and bars D and E (Figure 21a). For the period from July 4 to 10, the waves increased to a maximum height of 1.5 meters (Figure 7). Winds were mainly out of the southwest with a shift to the northwest on July 5 (Figure 6). Tides decreased from maximum spring tides with a range of 4.0 meters on July 1 to neap tides with a range of 2.0 meters on July 8 (Figure 12). Littoral current measured on July 7 and 8 reached a maximum of 55 centimeters/second. The longshore component of the current reached 52 centimeters/second to the north on July 8 when the wind and waves were out of the southwest. The longshore current measurements were taken within the inner bar system where the current was flowing to the north. A rip current.system with megaripples (Clifton, Hunter, and Phillips, 1971) was operating shoreward of the inner sand bar with feeder currents moving to the south in front of bar A. Although the longshore current was flowing to the north on July 7 and 8, sediment was being transported to the south by the feeder currents in the rip current system. Bar C, which moves shoreward and northward at 9.1 meters/ day was acting under the influence of the northward long- shore current. The topographic maps for July 4, 7 and 10 show a progressive shoreward and longshore movement of the initial bars (Figure 22a-c). Bar A, is welded to the shore at the north end and advances 10 meters/day to the south. Bar B moves 5.5 meters/day toward the shore and 16.8 meters/day to the south. Bar C advances toward the shore at a rate of 4 meters/day and northward at 9.1 meters/day. Bar D, the northward extension of bar C, is cut off from bar C by a rip channel on July 7. On July 10, bar D migrated toward 37 Ob, ki` Figure 20a. Bars A and B at the north end of South Beach. megaripples present in the troughs, July 2, 1973. 38 Al IA Figure 20b. Bars C and G at South Beach, July 21, 1973. Figure 20c. Bars H, C and G at South Beach, August 2, 1973. 39 the shore and welded on to the south end of bar A. Bar E, advanced toward the shore at 4 meters/day and was welded to the beach on July 10. Bar F, the small bar at mean sea level near the south end of the map, moved shoreward at 6.1 meters/day and was welded on the beach on July 7. The net topographic changes from July 4 through July 10 form sausage shaped mounds on the erosion and depo- sition map (Figure 22d). The areas of deposition on the north half of the map represent the shoreward, but pre- dominantly southward advance of bars A and B. The deposi- tional areas on the south end of the map are the leading edges of bars C and E with areas of erosion to the south and west. The wave and current conditions reached a peak be- tween July 10 and 18 resulting in considerable erosion on the beach and deposition on the bars. From July 10 through 12, the wind speed reached almost 15 meters/second out of the north as a high pressure system hovered offshore (Figure 4). On July 13, the waves reached 1.8 meters in height with periods of 8.5 seconds (Figure 9). The longshore current was about 45 centimeters/second to the south. As a low pressure system moved across on July 13 through 17, the wind shifted over to the southwest and dropped off to 2 to 4 meters/second. The shift in wave and longshore current direction did not take place until July 19 (Figure 16). However, the waves reached their maximum height of 2 meters and period of 9 seconds on July 16 (Figure 7). The waves were actually swells which were generated out at sea and approached the shore almost parallel to the coast. Spring tides occurred on July 12 through 15, but the tidal range was only 2.7 meters so wave energy was concentrated in the mid-tide zone (Figure 13). The maps for July 10, 14 and 18 show significant changes in the beach and nearshore bar configurations (Figures 21c and 23a-c). Between July 10 and 14, bar B merged with bar A which advanced 11.3 meters/day to the south (Figure 23b). A rip channel was maintained between bars A and C about 300 meters from the north end of the study area. Bar C was eroded 12 meters/day on the north edge and built out toward the south. The greatest changes in the shoreline configuration took place between July 14 and 18 (Figure 23c). Bars A and C merged, forming one large bar extending to the south end of the map. The longshore cur- rent in the trough between the bar and the shore excavated the trough to a depth of 1.9 meters on July 18. As the waves subsided, a new bar, G, formed 210 meters from the baseline near the north end of the map. 40 5 0 0 ........ ... -5 ...... ............... B:: ............. 0 meters 200 7/4/73 7 /25/73 BI --------- 5 El 0 0 . . . . . . . . . . . -5 ............... -5 7/10/73 -At 8/4/73 contours in feet 5 F 5 0 -XX ... .......... C ............ .... ..... ...... X. .......... ........... ........ 7/16/7 3 bar migration 8/12/73 erosion Figure 21. Sequence of maps showing bar migration and erosion at South Beach, Oregon. 41 SOUTH BEACH, OREGON 7/4/73 7/7 /73 -------------- 5 5 0 0 -4 -5 -6 5 -6 -5 ..... Jtl 7/10/73 7/4 to 7 1-0/ 73 -5 0 -41 -5 0 FEET 600 BAR EROSION DEPOSITION 0 METERS 200 Figure 22. Topographic maps for (A) July 4, (B) July 7, (C) July 10, and (D) erosion and deposition map 0 for July 4 to 10, 1973 at South Beach, Oregon. > .0 0 1f W rn "n It --I rn Fl- rn rn 4S LQ m --A (n N v 0 tj N 0 0 0 co C-4 (x 0 0 0 H" co ::r CD ui (n ft (D @-h " 0 En 0 H 0 (D (t 0 CO IV :J Sli C-4 (D tJ r, Fl I:r (D C) 00 N " EA 0) (D P. :J G) kQ rt, la 0 t,- z 0 Lin P C4 10 -4 I-h 0 OD W m -4 -u 0 0 z The map for erosion and deposition between July 10 and 18 showed up to 2 feet (0.6 meters) of deposition shore- ward of bar C with erosion in the troughs in front of bars C and G (Figure 23d). When bars A and C were merged, 1 meter of erosion took place in the longshore trough ex- aggerating relief on the bar (Figure 23d). Up to' 0.6 meters of erosion occurred forming a trough in front of bar G. From July 18 to 25, the wind dropped down to less than 4 meters/second and breaker height was less than 1 meter for the lowest energy conditions during the study. The bars advanced slowly toward the shore filling in the troughs ahead of them (Figure 21d). From July 18 to 22, bar G at the north end of the map advanced 58 meters toward the shore at an average of 14.3 meters/day (Figure 24b). The crest of bar G rose from 1.3 to 0.5 meters below mean sea level. From July 22 to 25, bar G advanced shoreward an additional 15 meters and started to build out to the south (Figure 24c). Bar G moved shoreward at a rate of 5.5 meters/ day at the north end and expanded 12.2 meters/day to the south. As bar G built up, a rip channel formed between it and bar C with a feeder trough in front of bar G. The map of erosion and deposition (Figure 24d) shows a broad area of deposition resulting from the shoreward advance of bars G and C and the filling in of the trough in front of bar C. The air photo taken on July 22, 1973 shows bar C with the trough at the south end of the study area (Figure 20b). July 25 to August 4 was also a time of low energy in the surf zone. Wind speed reached 15 meters/second on July 26 (Figure 4) but the wind was almost entirely along the shore from the north. Breaker height picked up to 1.5 meters and longshore current reached 50 centimeters/second to the south. The wind and wave activity dropped off again from July 26 until August 4. From July 25 through August 4, 1973 the bars con- tinued to advance toward the shore,and the rip channel ex- panded to the south (Figure 21e). Bar C continued to move toward the shore at a rate of 1 meter/day. Bar G built out to the south at 5.5 meters/day forcing the rip channel to migrate southward and erode bar C. On August 4, bar H formed offshore from bar G at the north end of the map. The map of erosion and deposition (Figure 25d) shows deposition due to the southward advance of bars C and G, a linear area of erosion in front of bar C and a triangular area of erosion due to the expansion of the rip channel between bars G and C. Wind and wave activity increased somewhat between August 4 and 12. The waves reached 1.7 meters on August 6 and averaged about 1.4 meters through the end of the study. 44 -0 m -n -i rn m m cn (A 0- 0 0 0 00 C-4 C 4 F3 INI 0 Fl tQ r-a 00 Ln 0 Pi H- CD ED ko -1 (D @t uj" 0 0 En rt H.,5; 0 In:j CO 0 r@ P) C4 ft td P, M (D Ff p @d 00 m 0 0- Fl. 0 rt, U) ED- 0 F,.- Fl 0 0 CD @J C-1 z 4 0 0 N N N, LA 9 v 0 0 r 11.) CL m m m LQ m 00 --j o n No 00 0 0 C4 0 0 La 10 rl 0 0 IQ rt Fi rl) Ln C: & 0 co > > ru m w co rt @-h Ir I, C.- m 61@- (D 0 , " 11 > 0 F-I 0 v w co C-4 rt. ::1 En 0 0 (D Ln m @r 0 m 0 P%3 (n (D rt- 01 0 0 > z -6. 11 z :3 r@ 0 0 OD 0 pi (a " @a OD (D LQ Fl 4S 0 0 ryl 0 (n EM K gr K@ -0 0 K -n m --4 rn m m CC) OD k-h Ch 0 0 o o o W IN, Fj 0 0 rl 0 Cr-, (n En Lct rt rt P1 U) rt, Fl (D K) H 0 (a CO Fl rt, tj En m rt- m OD (D (D 0 P) 10 (n 0 0 En 0 i-- td & - z oil. 0 OD @110 >0 0 m ::j r. LQ LQ OD OD 0 5 0 :I P) m rt, 4S m z The longshore current reached a maximum of over 90 centimeters/second on August 10 in the trough between the bar and the shore (Figure 16). The final maps for the summer series show the for- mation of new bars on August 8and their advance toward shore on August 12 (Figures 21f and 26b). On August 8, a new bar formed outside bar C and joined with a southward extension of bar G (Figure 26b). on August 8, the rip chan- nel is blocked off by the new bar, and by August 12, it is filled in with sand. Bar H at the north end of the study area was formed on August 4 and was welded on to bar G by August 12 (Figure 26d). When the study ended on August 12, bars G and C joined to form a single continuous bar, and bar I built up off the south end of bar C (Figure 21f). The erosion and deposition map shows a large depositional area in the old rip channel where bar G joined up with bar C (Figure 26d). Erosion took place on the seaward edge of bar G and in front of bar I. In summary, the major mode of sand transport across the beach in the summer is in large intertidal sand bars. The bars form at a depth of 1 to 2 meters and advance toward the shore at 1 to 5 meters/day. During the summer the wind is generally out of the north-northwest at 5 to 15 meters/ second with waves from 1 to 3 meters high. The northwest waves generate longshore currents to the south resulting in the southward migration of the bars. The rate of bar movement to the south varies from 10 to 15 meters/day. During storms, rip channels and longshore troughs are excavated by the longshore currents. At times of low wave activity, the bars advance shoreward and bury the longshore troughs. Beverly Beach A second beach s tudy was made at the south end of Beverly Beach State Park about 11.7 kilometers (7 miles) north of the Newport jetty at Yaquina Bay (Figure 1). The study site is located 2.3 kilometers (1.4 miles) south of a rocky headland at Devils Punch Bowl within a 7.5 kilometer (4.5 mile) stretch of beach which extends south to Yaquina Head. Cape Foulweather, a Miocene volcano forms the high headland north of Beverly Beach. The rubble-covered sea cliffs that border the coast consist of landslide blocks of the Astoria Formation (Snavely and MacLeod, 1971). The Astoria of middle Miocene age contains alternating beds'of yellowish gray sandstone and dark-gray carbonaceous silt- stone. The present beach was deposited on a wave-cut 48 terrace in the Astoria Formation (Figure 27a). Whaleback Island lies parallel to the coast about 730 meters (2400 feet) offshore from Beverly Beach. The island is made up of westward dipping Miocene pillow basalts of the Depoe Bay Formation which'were laid down on top of the Astoria Formation. Whaleback Island which is about 400 meters long at low spring tide is almost awash at high spring tide. It acts like a detached breakwater and influ- ences sedimentary processes on Beverly Beach. A series of maps of Beverly Beach were made at 3 or 4 day intervals interspaced with maps of South Beach and Gleneden Beach. The study area is 475 meters (1500 feet) along the coast and -extends from the base of the cliff for about 400 meters in a seaward direction (Figure 28). Seven profiles were surveyed across the beach at 76.2 meter (250 foot) intervals along the beach. Six maps of Beverly Beach were selected from a series of 13 maps to show the changes in beach and bar configuration from July 6 through August 12, 1973 (Figure 28). On July 6, bar A formed an oval shaped bar 460 meters long with a runnel draining to the north and a large rip channel at the south end (Figure 28a). Bar B is connected to the shore near the south end of the study area. The beach forms a protuberance behind the bar which itself is centered behind Whaleback Island. Between July 6 and 12, bar A migrated toward the shore and expanded to the south (Figure 28b). The rip chan- nel at the south end of bar A was partially filled in by bar A and eroded'the backside of bar B. Bar C formed at the north end of the study area as the trough was filled in behind the north end of bar A. During the high wave activity between July 12 and 21, bar A expanded about 200 meters to the south and the rip channel shifted to the south end of the map (Figure 28c). On July 21, the rip channels at Beverly Beach cut diagonally across the beach to the southwest (Figure 27b). The rip channel with large megaripples on its bed is very similar to the rip channel formed behind bar C at South Beach (Figure 21c). Waves approaching from the north generated strong southward flowing longshore currents which formed rip channels draining to the south and southwest. Bar C .at the north end of Beverly Beach also migrated shoreward between July 12 and 21. During the low wave activity from July 21 to July 28, bars A and C continued to advance up the beach. 49 44- Figure 27a. Cliff and beach at Beverly Beach. A, ", r'N 1 71'' -41 Figure 27b. Rip channels across Beverly Beach, July 21, 1973. so DI -5 5 ........ . . . . . -10 7/6/73 7/28/73 5 5 U ......... .... . Z- 0 meters 200 7/12/73 contours in feet 8/6/73 C I 5 0 -5- . ........ i @ @i gm<ii ;@i �r- . . . . . . . . . . . -5 7/21/17.3 erosion 8/10/73 bar migration Figure 28. Sequence of maps showing southward movement of bar and rip channel at Beverly Beach, Oregon. The rip channel at the south end of the map was considerably filled in by the advance of bar A (Figure 28d). From July 28 through August 6, low wave activity, pre- vailed and bar migration continued. A secondary rip channel was cut across the south end of bar A forming bar D (Figure 28e). The shoreward edge of bar D continued to fill in the major rip channel at the south end of the map area. As the new rip channel was being excavated, the north end of bar A also advanced toward the shore, and bar C became welded to the beach. In the final map for Beverly Beach, bar A merged with bar D on August 12 (Figure 28f). The rip channel between bars A and D was closed off as bar A expanded to the south. The north end of bar A also filled in the runnel becoming welded to the beach. In summary, the nearshore at Beverly Beach was domi- nated by a large oval bar which formed behind Whaleback rock. A well-developed rip channel was formed at the south end of the bar. During the summer from July 6 through August 10, the bar migrated toward the shore and expanded to the south. The rip channel at the south end of the bar moved about 400 meters to the south as the bar expanded. Minor bars formed at the north and south ends of the study area and advanced onto the beach. Gleneden Beach Seven maps were made at Gleneden Beach from July 11 through August 11, 1973. The study area was located'near the south end of Siletz Spit about 35 kilometers (21 miles) north of the Newport jetty (Figure 1). Siletz Spit extends to the north across the mouth of Siletz Bay, 7 kilometers north of the Government Point and about 20 kilometers south of Cascade Head. The study beach lies at the base of a sea cliff which is cut into the Miocene Astoria Forma- tion. The beach at Gleneden can be divided into 5 dis- tinct zones seaward from the cliff; backbeach, berm, fore7 shore, trough and bar (Figure 31a). The backbeach extends for about 40 meters from the base of the cliff to the rise in the berm. The backbeach is 3.7 to 4.3 meters above mean sea level and 5.8 to 6.4 meters above the base of the foreshore. The flat backshore is surfaced by a wind lag deposit which closely resembles desert pavement. The sea- ward edge of the backbeach is marked by the berm which forms a continuous ridge about 0.3 meters above the backbeach. The berm was formed by wave overwash during spring high tides. 52 The foreshore at Gleneden Beach is about 55 meters (180 feet) wide and drops 5.5 meters (18 feet) to the trough giving a slope of 1:10 (Figure 31a). A series of cusps were developed on the foreshore with an average width of about 40 meters. The study area was laid out so that 3 cusps were included within the study site. A de- tailed analysis of the nature and development of the cusps was undertaken by one of the student field assistants from Williams College (McTigue, 1974). The bar and trough configuration at Oleneden Beach is part of a large scale rhythmic topography (Figure 29b). The bars are spaced at 300 meter intervals along the shore with troughs draining at the south ends of the bars. When the bars are exposed at low spring tide, the troughs are about 1 meter under water. At mid-tide, strong rip cur- rents develop within the bar and trough system, while at high-tide, steady longshore currents flow parallel to the steep foreshore. The study site at Gleneden Beach was established to determine the migration rate of the large.cusps. Dur- ing the 30 days of observation, the size and position of the cusps did not measurably change, even though the cusps actively influenced the wave run-up on the beach. The cusp spacing may have been related to'larger waves within the area before the study started. Between July 30 and August 11, a triangular shaped bar moved across the trough to the base of the foreshore (Figures 31 and 32). On July 30, the crest of the bar was 31 meters (102 feet) seaward of the base of the foreshore and 1.4 meters below mean sea level. On August 3, the bar migrated about 25 meters to the south and 10 meters toward the shore. The erosion and deposition map for August 3 (Figure 31c) shows a broad area of deposition shoreward and to the south of the bar filling in the trough. Erosion took place on the seaward edge of the bar and on the fore- shore. A scarp developed on the upper foreshore as the lower foreshore was eroded (Figure 30b). From August 3 to August 11, the bar continued to adyance toward the shore and fill in the trough to the south (Figure 32). The total distance which the bar moved from July 30 to August 11 was about 45 meters (150 feet) to the south and 30 meters toward the shore. On August 3, the leading edge of the bar was welded on to the base of the foreshore (Figure 32b). A channel was eroded on the north side of the bar and filled in on the south side. Deposition took place on the fore- shore and in the trough in front of the bar with erosion on the back bar and in the channel to the north of the bar (Figure 32c). 53 ........... Figure 29a. Study site at Gleneden Beach. fZ 17, Figure 29b. Rhythmic topography on Siletz spit north of Gleneden Beach. 54 Figure 30 a. Sand bar at Gleneden Beach, August 2, 1973. U-1 Figure 30b. Erosion scarp on Gleneden Beach, July, 1973. 55 9s 0i 0 -4 01i @/o CID co m LQ m t m N z LQ @I OD Co En - m -4 M rt 0 0 m uj v m > 0 C.) (D LQ -4 0 P) 61 cn 0 @$ 0 LW 0 0 rt, 0 0 0 m (D 0 @$ m z (D 1-00 Qj 0 0 (D Ca 0 FJ- rt. :PA oil Fv to FA. - --j m 0 co o rn 0 C4 N 0 0 > m m Ui ty 5 m _0 0 0 W 0 ch "a 0 En 0 H " z m 0 0 kq " p z co 0 :3 L4 Ui 9:11 Fj ,.< L)i Uj ft LQ 0 0 rt w GLENEDEN BEACH, OREGON A 8/3/73 B 8/11/73 C 8 3 to 8/11 73 12 12 0 0 ---------- - -5- -4 Ln 7 -7 -6 -5 Z- 0 FEET 300 EROSION 0 METERS 100 DEPOSITION Figure 32. Topographic maps for (A) August 3 and (B) August 11, BAR and (C) erosion and deposition map for August 3 to August 11, 1973 at Gleneden Beach, Oregon. In summary, Gleneden Beach has a well developed back- beach, berm, foreshore, trough and bar. The backbeach is well-above sea level with a steep foreshore leading down to the bar and trough topography. Two levels of rhythmic topography are present on Gleneden Beach, large cusps on the foreshore with a wavelength of about 40 meters and rhythmic bar and trough topography with a wavelength of about 300 meters. 58 SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS A 45-day time series study was completed during July and August, 1973 on the central Oregon coast. Weather and wave data were collected at Oregon State University Marine Science Center, Newport, Oregon. Profiles were made across the beach and into the surf zone at South Beach, Beverly Beach and Gleneden Beach. Topographic maps and maps of erosion and deposition were made at three or four day intervals for each of the beaches. The following conclu- sions are based on the 45-day study. 1. During the summer, the weather on the Oregon coast is dominated by the East Pacific Subtropical High located a few hundred kilometers off the coast. Clockwise circulation around the high produces steady north winds along the shore. 2. The peaks in the breaker height curve are directly related to the lows in the barometric pressure curve, but are not directly correlated with the-wind. Therefore, the waves are generated by local winds circulating around offshore lows in barometric pressure, but not to the strong north winds that parallel the coast. 3. The nearshore currents within the surf zone are controlled by rip currents with superimposed longshore currents. The rip currents conform to the bars and troughs in the nearshore zone. The speed and direction of the longshore current are directly related to the longshore component of the wind with a 2 to 3 day time lag for the direction reversal. 4. Sand bars formed below mean sea level advance across the beach during low energy conditions. The rate of shoreward advance varies from 1 to 5 meters/day. Under the influence of strong southward flowing longshore currents, the bars migrate to the south at 10 to 15 meters/day. When the bar reaches the mid-tide level, it becomes stationary or welded to the beach. 5. Rip'channels are best formed during ebb tides with inter- mediate to high waves when wave and current energy is con- centrated in the mid-tide zone. The rip channels are de- stroyed when bars advance across the channels during low energy conditions. 6. The beaches on the Oregon coast are basically accretionary during the summer when the sand lost to winter storms is returned to the beach. 59 REFERENCES CITED Abele, R. W., 1973, Detailed analysis of short-term variations in beach morphology (and concurrent dynamic processes) for summer and winter periods, 1971-72, Plum Island, Massachusetts. Master's thesis, University of Massachusetts, 166 p. Bascom, W., 1951, The relationship.between sand size and beach face slope, Amer. Geophys. Union Trans., vol. 32, pp. 866-874. Clifton, H. E., Hunter, R. E., and Phillips, R. L., 1971, Depositional structures and processes in the non- barred high-energy nearshore, Jour. Sed. Petrology, v. 41, pp. 651-670. Creech, C., 1973, Wave climatology of the central Oregon coast, Technical Report NOAA Sea Grant project 04-3-158-4. OSU Marine Science Center, Newport, Oregon, 19 p. Davis, R. A., Jr., and Fox, W. T., 1971, Beach and nearshore dynamics in eastern Lake Michigan: Tech. Rept. No. 4, O.N.R. Contract 388-092, Williams College, 145 p. Davis, R. A., Jr., and Fox, W. T., 1972, Coastal dynamics along Mustang Island, Texas, Tech. Rept. No. 9, O.N.R. Contract 388-092, Williams College, 68 p. Dolan, R., Ferm, J. C., and McArthur, D. S., 1969, Measure- ments of beach process variables, Outer Banks, North Carolina, O.N.R. Tech. Rept. Coastal Studies Institute, Contract 388-002, 79 p. Emery, K. 0., 1961, A simple method of measuring beach profiles, Limnology and Oceanography, v. 6, pp. 90-93. Fox, W. T., and Davis, R. A., Jr., 1970, Fourier analysis of weather and wave data from Lake Michigan: O.N.R. Tech. Rept. No. 1, Contract 388-092, Williams College, 47 p. Fox, W. T., and Davis, R. A., Jr., 1971a, Fourier analysis of weather and wave data from Holland, Michigan, July, 1970: O.N.R. Tech. Rept. No. 3, Contract 388-092, Williams College, 79'p. Fox, W. T., and Davis, R. A., Jr., 1971b, Computer simulation 60 model of coastal processes in eastern Lake Michigan, O.N.R. Tech. Rept. No. 5, Contract 388-092, Williams College, 114 p. Fox, W. T., and Davis, R. A., Jr., 1973a, Simulation model for storm cycles and beach erosion on Lake Michigan, Geol. Soc. of America Bull., v. 84, pp. 1769-1790. Fox, W. T., and Davis, R. A., Jr., 1973b, Coastal processes and beach dynamics at Sheboygan, Wisconsin, July, 1972, O.N.R. Tech. Rept. No. 10, Contract 388-092, Williams College, 94 p. Frye, D. E., Pond, S., and Elliott, W. P., 1972, Note on the kinetic energy spectrum of coastal winds, Monthly Weather Review, v. 100, pp. 671-673. Harrison, W., 1969, Empirical equations for foreshore changes over a tidal cycle, Marine Geology 7(6): 529-551. Harrison, W., and Krumbein, W. C., 1964, Interactions of the beach-ocean-atmosphere system at Virginia Beach, Virginia, Technical Memorandum No. 7, Coastal En- -gineering Research Center, 52 p. Harrison, W., Rayfield, E. W., Boon, J. D., III, Reynolds, G., Grant, J. B., and Tyler, D., 1969, A times series from the beach environment, LASIL Contribution No. 12, 94 p. King, C. A. M., 1972, Beaches and coasts, Saint Martins Press, New York, 570 p. Longuet-Higgins, M. S., 1950, A theory of the origin of microseisms, Phil. Trans. Roy Soc. (London) Serial A, 243, pp. 1-35. Lund, E. H., 1972, Coastal landforms between Yachats and Newport, Oregon, The ORE BIN, v. 34, pp. 73-91. McTigue, D. F., 1974, Theoretical approach to mechanisms of beach cusps formation, Honors thesis, Williams College, 131 p. Rottman, C. J. F., 1973, Surf zone shape changes in quartz grains on Pocket Beaches, Cape Arago, Oregon, Jour. Sed. Petrology, v. 43, pp. 188-199. Snavely, P. D.,'Jr., and MacLeod, N. s., 1971, Visitors guide to the geology of the coastal area near Beverly Beach State Park, Oregon, The ORE BIN, 61 v. 33, pp. 85-105. Sonu, C. J., 1972, Field observation of nearshore circulation and meandering currents, Jour. Geophys. Res., vol. 77, pp. 3232-3247. Sonu, C. J., and van Beck, J. L., 1971, Systematic changes on the Outer Banks, North Carolina, Jour. Geol., v. 79, pp. 416-425. Sonu, C. J., and James, W. R., 1973, A Markov model for beach profile changesi Jour. Geophys. Res., v. 78, pp. 1462-1471. Sonu, C. J., McCloy, J. M., and McArthur, D. S., 1966, Long- shore currents and nearshore topographics, Proc. Xth Conference on Coastal Engineering, Council on Wave Research, pp. 525-549. Sonu, C. J., and Russell, R. J., 1966, Topographic changes in the surf zone profile, Proc. Xth Conference on Coastal Engineering, Council on Wave Research, pp. 502-524. 62 APPENDIX 1. OBSERVED DATA Weather and tide data were extracted from continuous records at the Oregon State University Marine Science Center at one hour intervals from July 1 through August 14, 1973. Wave data was derived from microseismo- graph records at the Oregon State University Marine Science Center at 6 hour intervals for the same dates. Longshore and rip current data was collected twice daily from July 7 through August 11 in the surf at the South Beach study site. Additional readings were taken when the survey crew was at South Beach at 1400. Variables measured include the following: BP - Barometric"Pressure WS - Wind Speed WD - Wind Direction TA - Air Temperature HUM- Humidity TIDE- Tide Level T- Wave Period H3 - Significant Wave Height H10- Breaker Height AZI- Current Azimuth SPEED- Current Velocity ON - Onshore Current AL - Alongshore Current 63 WEATHER AND TIDE DATA DATE HOUR BP ws WD TA HUM TIDE DATE HOUR BP ws WD TA HUM TIDE 7/ 1/73 1 1020*0 2 30 51 92 809 7/ 4/73 1 102301 1 190 58 85 7*1 7/ 1/73 2 1019.9 0 110 50 91 7,0 7/ 4/73 2 1023*0 0 195 57 86 Sol 7/ 1/73 3 1019* 5 0 70 48 91 2*6 7/ 4/73 3 1022.9 0 150 57 87 8#3 7/ 1/73 4 1019.6 3 75 47 92 1*7 .7/ 4/73 4 1022.9 0 215 56 90 7.2 71 1/73 5 1019.4 2 95 46 92 -1.1 7/ 4/73 5 1023oO 0 190 57 89 5.5 7/ 1/73 6 101900 5 75 47 92 -2*9 7/ 4/73 6 1023*0 0 175 58 89 3.2 7/ 1/73 7 1018.9 4 90 50 92 -3.4 7/ 4/73 7 1022*9 2 225 59 84 0.8 7/ 1/73 8 1018.8 2 20 54 90 -2-a 1/ 4/73 8 1023*1 2 230 60 82 -0.9 7/ 1/73 9 101805 4 330 58 86 -097 7/ 4/73 9 1023o2 3 240 62 79 -1.5 7/ 1/73 10 1018*2 8 350 59 79 lm6 7/ 4/73 10 1023*2 4 235 63 77 -0*9 240 64 70 0.4 7/ 1/73 11 1017*2 11 345 60 62 4.0 7/ 4/73 11 1023*3 5 7/ 1/73 12 1016o8 12 345 61 57 5.8 7/ 4/73 12 1023*4 4 235 63 87 2.3 7/ 1/73 13 1016vO 14 345 61 54 7.2 7/ 4/73 13 1023o2 6 220 65 73 4.5 7/ 1/73 14 1015*6 16 350 60 54 7@5 7/ 4/73 14 1023*1 4 250 61 90 6.3 7/ 1/73 15 1015*0 17 350 60 56 6.4 7/ 4/73 15 1023.0 8 300 60 90 7*6 7/ 1/73 1 1014o7 17 350 61 58 5.0 7/ 4/73 16 1023*0 10 310 57 90 7.9 7/ 1/73 17 1014.3 25 350 59 65 3.5 7/ 4/73 17 1022.6 4 315 58 84 7.1 7/ 1/73 18 1014,0 15 350 58 67 2.4 7/ 4/73 18 1022*3 3 330 58 82 5.6 7/ 1/73 19 1014.0 12 360 56 74 2*0 7/ 4/73 19 1022*3 4 10 58 85 4.1 7/ 1/73 20 1014.0 10 355 54 82 2.9 7/ 4/73 20 1021@5 1 250 57 84 2.4 7/ 1/73 21 1014*3 8 345 53 84 4:2 7/ 4/73 21 1021#5 0 290 57 83 1.4 7/ 1/73 22 1014.4 7 355 51 89 6 0 7/ 4/73 22 1021*5 5 305 57 78 1*3 7/ 1/73 23 1014.3 1 60 51 89 7o8 7/ 4/73 23 1021.3 6 310 57 7 a 2*1 7/ 1/73 24 1014.5 0 210 48 89 9*2 7/ 4/73 24 102loO 1 15 56 89 3.4 7/ 2/73 1 1014.5 2 195 4.7 89 9-6 7/ 5/73 1 1020o9 0 270 56 89 4.9 7/ 2/73 2 101497 2 170 46 89 8*6 7/ 5/73 2 1020*6 0 140 55 90 6.2 7/ 2/73 3 1014.7 0 105 47 89 6,* 7 7/ 5/73 3 1020s2 0 90 55 90 7*1 90 48 89 4.2 7/ 5/73 4 1020*0 0 30 54 90 7: 3 7/ 2/73 4 lol5.0 0 7/ 2/73 5 1015*1 2 80 49 89 1*2 7/ 5/73 5 1,01909 1 190 55 90 6 2 H 7/ 2/73 6 1015.2 1 105 50 89 -lol f 7/ 5/73 6 101909 4 330 55 89 4.7 7/ 2/73 7 1015*4 3 125 52 88 -2*7 7/ 5/73 7 1019.8 5 10 56 84 2-8 7/ 2/73 8 1016*0 1 10 57 80 -2-8 7/ 5/73 8 1019*3 1 350 59 76 0.9 7/ 2/73 9 1017.0 3 275 58 77 -lo6 7/ 5/73 9 101900 1 340 62 60 -0.2 7/ 2/73 10 lol7.2 2 280 59 72 0.4 '7/ 5/73 10 1018.7 5 295 61 56 -0*4 7/ 2/73 11 1017*6 3 230 61 64 2*7 7/ 5/73 11 101896 10 315 60 69 0.2 7/ 2/73 12 101800 4 240 62 63 4*8 7/ 5/73 12 1018*2 6 335 62 66 1.7 7/ 2/73 13 1018.3 5 235 61 64 6.7 7/ 5/73 13 1018.0 8 325 62 65 3.6 7/ 2/73 14 1018*4 6 240 62 64 7*7 7/ 5/73 14 101793 5 340 63 59 5.4 7/ 2/73 15 101845 6 240 61 63 7*6 7/ 5/73 15 1017*1 3 325 63 60 7*1 7/ 2/73 16 1018o5 6 255 61 67 6s3 7/ 5/73 16 1016*9 5 320 62 58 Bel 7/ 2/73 17 101805 230 60 66 4*8 7/ 5/73 17 1016*2 6 330 61 58 Bel 7/ 2/73 18 1018.4 3 225 60 68 3.2 7/ 5/73 18 1016*0 3 325 59 64 7*1 001 7/ 2/73 19 1016#4 3 215 58 72 2*0 7/ 5/73*19 1015.9 4 325 58 69 5.7 7/ 2/73 20 1018#5 3 195 56 80 1*8 7/ 5/73 20 101503 2 350 57 70 4.1 7/ 2/73 21 101809 2 190 53 86 2-7 7/ 5/73 21 1015s5 0 350 57 72 2@6 7/ 2/73 22 101900 1 65 52 88 4al 7/ 5/73 22 1015*4 0 210 56 79 1*6 7/ 2/73 23 101809 1 75 50 90 5*8 7/ 5/73 23 10150 2 220 55 84 1-4 7/ 2/73 24 101900 1 60 48 90 -7*6 7/ 5/73 24 1015@2 4 190 56 84 2.2 7/ 3/73 1 101901 1 65 50 90 8*7 7/ 6/73 1 1015al 1 165 56 85 3o2 7/ 3/73 2 1019.2 2 70 51 90 901 7/ 6/73 2 1015*0 2 170 55 85 4-6 7/ 3/73 3 101901 2 75 52 90 800 7/ 6/73 3 1015#0 4 170 54 89 5.7 7/ 3/73 4 102901 2 75' 51 90 6*1 7/ 6/73. 4 1015*1 2 150 54 89 4o4 7/ 3/73 5 1019*2 2 80 51 90 3o7 7/ 6/73 5 1015*2 2 120 55 89 4*5 7/ 3/73 6 1019o6 2 75 52 90 009 7/ 6/73 6 lol5.3 0 180 56 85 5*7 7/ 3/73 7 1020*0 3 40 56 80 -1@3 7/ 6/73 7 1016*0 6 200 58 78 4.5 7/ 3/73 8 1020.3 3 225 60 74 -244 7/ 6/73 8 1016oO 6 145 60 68 2#8 7/ 3/73 9 1021*0 4 225 '62 70 -2ol 7/ 6/73 9 1016*2 10 230 60 70 1#6 7/ 3/73 10 102loO 3 240 62 65 -0.7 7/ 6/73 10 1016*8 12 210 62 65 Ov3 7/ 3/73 11 1021.1 3 270 64 67 1*3 7/ 6/73 11 1017oO 10 205 63 60 009 7/ 3/73 12 1021.1 3 290 65 64 3*6 7/ 6/73 12 1017o2 13 230 62 62 lo6 7/ 3/73 13 1020oO 5 285 65 64 5*6 7/ 6/73 13 10170 9 225 63 63 2#9 7/ 3/73 14 10210 4 270 64 68 70 7/ 6t79 14 101-7-0- 11 210 64 56 4i7 7/ 3/73 15 102290 4 240 63 69 800 7/ 6/73 15 1017s7 7 215 63 68 6*1 7/ 3/73 16 1022*0 1 320 62 73 7*5 7/ 6/73 16 1018oO 7 225 64 68 7.5 7/ 3/73 17 1022oO 1 220 61 75 6ol. 7/ 6/73 17 1018oO 2 220 63 70 800 7/ 3/73 18 1022oO 2 210 60 79 494 7/ 6/73 18 1017s9 4 225 62 69 7o8 7/ 3/73 19 1022o2 2 200 60 82 2o9,. 7/ 6/73 19 1017*8 3 205 60 74 6o9 7/ 3/73 20 1022s2 2 195 60 82 -le-7 7/ 6/73 20 1017o7 9 205 57 84 5.5 7/ 3/73 21 1022o9 1 195 59 83 106 7/ 6/73 21 1017*3 2 240 55 89 4.0 7/ 3/73 22 1023oO 2 210 59 85 266, 7/ 6/73 22 10 17 e 2 2 100 54 90 2*5 7/ 3/73 23 1023o2 1 225 58 85 4*01 7/ 6/73 23 1617 2 1 160 52 90 lo6 7/ 3/73 24 1023*2 0 180 58 85 5*6 1016: 9 0 190 52 90 103 6/73 24 At DATE HOUR BP ws WD TA HUM TIDE DATE HOUR BP ws WD T A Hum TIDE 7/ 7/73 1 1016.6 4 95 50 90 1.9 7/10/73 1 1017.9 0 280 56 88 1.7 7/ 7/73 2 1016*4 3 90 51 90 2.8 7/10/73 2 1018*1 2 195 55 90 Oe7 7/ 7/73 3 lol.6.4 3 95 51 90 4*1 7/10/73 3 1019.0 5 315 57 90 -0.4 7/ 7/73 4 1016*3 4 85 50 90 501 7/10/73 4 1019*3 3 320 58 87 -0*2 7/ 7/73 5 101695 5 90 51 90 5e7 7/10/73 5 1020*0 2 300 58 85 1.6 7/ 7/73 6 1016*5 4 90 54 90 5e7 7/10/73 6 1020*9 0 220 58 86 2 7 7/ 7/73 7 1016*4 4 55 58 82 5el 7/10/73 7 1021*3 2 290 59 65 3:9 7/ 7/73 8 1016*4 1 190 60 71 4.1 7/10/73 8 1022*0 2 280 62 68 4.8 7/ 7/73 9 lol6.5 5 215 61 56 300 7/10/73 9 1023*8 5 285 63 64 5.4 7/73 10 1016e6 5 260 62 57 2*11 7/10/73 10 1023o9 4 275 64 61 5 , 5 7/ 7/73 11 1016.5 3 280 64 46 1.7 7/10/73 11 1024*0 7 275 64 68 5*1 7/ 7/73 12 1016,5 4 275 65 47 108 7/10/73 12 1024*5 6 345 60 90 4 4 7/ 7/73 13 1016*5 6 240 64 50 2.7 7/10/73 13 1024s7 9 0 62 70 3:9 7/ 7/73 14 1016*6 5 240 63 56 3*9 7/10/73 14 1025*0 5 350 .66 56 3e6 7/ 7/73 15 1016a6 6 245 64 56, 5.3 7/10/73 15 1026*0 7 350 67 57 3.7 p 7/ 7/73 16 lol6.3 6 225 63 56 697 7/10/73 16 1026*0 11 345 62 69 4.2 7/ 7/73 17 101601 6 215 62 60 7*7 7/10/73 17 1026*0 11 355 62 69 5.1 7/ 7/73 18 1016.0 7 210 61 60 6.1 7/10/73 18 1026sO 11 5 60 65 601 7/ 7/73 19 1016*0 7 205 60 60 7.7 7/10/73 19 1026*0 13 5 59 65 7*0 7/ 7/73 20 1015.9 R 200 57 74 6*5 7/10/73 20 102690 10 5 58 67 7.7 7/ 7/73 21 1016.0 5 185 .57 79 5.2 7/10/73 21 1026oO 14 5 57 71 7*7 7/ 7/73 22 101600 7 180 58 78 3s7. 7/10/73 22 1026eO 10 10 56 71 6s9 7/ 7/73 23 1016sO 9 190 58. 78 2s3 7/10/73 23 1026*0 14 10 55 73 5*7 7/ 7/73 24 1016el 8 180 57 88 le5 7/10/73 24 1026sO 10 15 54 75 4.1 7/ 9/73 1 1016*1 5 180 56 88 1.2 7/11/73 1 1026*0 8 25 54 75 2*2 7/ 8/73 2 1016*1 3 130 .57 88 1-6 7/11/73 2 1026*0 10 30 54 72 0*7 7/ 8/73 3 1016s2 2 160 57 88 2e5 7/11/73 3 1026eO 10 35 54 78 -0*1 7/ 8/73 4 1016s5 4 225 57 89 3.7 7/11/73 4 1026*0 4 100 50 88 -0.2 7/ 8/73 5 1017.0 3 205 56 90 4#6 7/11/73 5 1026oO 4 95 48 90 0:1 7/ 8/73 6 1017.2 0 180 57 90 5*2 7/11/73 6 1026*0 7 85 50 89 1 2 -'/ 7/11/73 7 1026*2 3 9 /73 1 1017a 5 4 180 57 90 594 60 52 60 2:3 7/ 8/73 -4 101.80 1 6 21Q 55 90 5.2 7/11/73 8 1026.2 10 350 58 64 3 7 7/ 8/73 9 1018.8 11 205 58 90 4.5 7/11/73 9 1025*7 16 355 60 56 4.7 7/ 8/73 10 1019*2 12 200 61 88 3.7 7/11/73 10 1025s2 16 355 61 55 5*4 7/ 8/73 11 1020.0 12 210 61 87 2*9 7/11/73 11 lo25.0 15 355 62 51+ 5.5 7/ 8/73 12 1020.5 7 225 64 71 2.7 7/11/73 12 1024*7 14 350 64 56 5*1 7/ @i/73 13 1021.0 7 210 63 64 2s7 7/11/73 13 1024*0 18 350 63 59 4*5 7 1021.0 68 3s6 7/11/73 14 , / F,1/73 14 5 215 64 1023.6 26 355 62 58 3.9 -7 /8/73 15 lo2l.0 5 220 65 64 4*6 7/11/73 15 1023.0 20 355 62 58 3*5 7/ 8/73 16 10 1 1 . 0 6 220 65 62 5.8 7/11/73 16 1022*5 23 355 62 59 3.6 7/ 8/73 17 1021.0 4 250 64 64 6*9 7/11/73 17 1022eO 24 355 61 65 4*2 7/ 8/73 18 1021.0 3 275 63 70 7*8 7/11/73 18 1021,9 26 350 60 65 5*1 7/ 8/73 19 1021*0 3 295 62 69 769 7/11/73 19 1021*9 26 0 58 72 6s2 7/ 8/73 20 1021.0 2 270 59 85 7.4 7/11/73 20 1021.9 25 0 57 76 7.1 7/ 8/73 21 1021*4 2 165 57 90 5*3 7/11/73 21 102199 24 0 56 80 7s7 f 7/ 8/73 22 1021.6 1 90 56 90 4.9 7/11/73 22 1021s9 23 0 55 81 7*5 7/ F/73 23 1021*6 2 75 57 90 3.5 7/11/73 23 1021s9 22 5 54 83 6.5 7/ 8/73 24 1021*6 1 90 57 90 2.0 7/11/73 24 1021@9 14 10 52 85 5*2 7/ 9/73 1 1021.8 1 90 57 90 i.o 7/12/73 1 1021s9 12 5 50 90 3.3 1021*9 Ic 0 50 90 1.5 7/ 9/73 2 1021*8 5 95 56 90 0.8 7/12/73 2 7/ 9/73 3 1021*8 4 100 56 90 1.1 7/12/73 3 10210 15 0 49 90 000 7/ 9/73 4 1022*0 4 105 55 90 1.9 7/12/73 4 1021.9 17 5 50 90 -0-7 7/ 9/73 5 1022.0 2 90 54 90 3sO 7/12/73 5 1021*9 15 0 49 91 -097 7/ 9/73 6 1022el 5 90 56 89 4*1 7/12/73 6 1021:9 12 0 50 90 -0.0 84 lo2l 9 12 0 52 88 192 7/ 9/73 7 1022*1 @4 85, 56 4e9 7/12/73 7 7/ 9/73 8 lo22.1 2 10 61 72 5.2 1 7112/73 8 102199 15 0 58 74 2.6 7/ 9/73 9 lo22.0 10 350 65 59 5*3 7/12/73 9 1022*0 20 0 60 66 4.1 7/ 9/73 10 102loS 11 350 65 60 4*8 7/12/73 10 1022*0 20 355 62 65 5,1 7/ 9/73 11 1021.4 13 350 66 60 4.3 7112/73 11 1021*9 25 355 61 66 5-6 7/ 9/73 12 1021.0 14 345 66 61 3*7 7/12/73 12 1021*9 26 355 62 65 5.7 7/ 9/73 13 1020*2 15 350 67 60 3.4 7/12/73 13 1021*3 25 0 64 64 5.1 7/ 9/73 14 lol9.8 17 345 68 58 30 7/12/73 14 1021sO 24 355 62 66 4.5 7/ 9/73 15 1019s3 18 345 67 60 4*2 7/12/73 15 1020sO 28 355 63 65 3*8 7/ 9/73 16 1018*1 18 345 66 60 5.1 7/12/73 16 1019e6 28 350 62 66 3s5 7/ 9/73 17 1017*7 17 345 66 61 6*2 7/12/73 17 1019*1 30 345 62 65 3s6 7/ 9/73 18 1017sO 14 0 66 64 7*2 7/12/73 18 1018*9 27 350 60 68 4*4 7/ 9/73 19 1016,8 12 350 64 70 8.0 7/12/73 19 1018@9 24 355 59 75 5.4 7/ 9/73 20 101697 11 355 60 82 8--.1 7/12/73 20 1018*9 25 355 58 84 6*5 7/ 9/73 21 lOl6s8 6 10 58 84 7.5 7/12/73 21 101992 26 355 55 88 7s5 7/ 9/73 22 1017*0 6 330 58 87 6.3 7/12/73 22 1019*5 20 5 54 89 797 7/ 9/73 23 1017*2 4 345 57 88 4@4 7/12/73 23 1019*4 20 5 52 89 7*4 7/ 9/73 24 1017s5 0 5 57 80 f.2 7/12/73 24 1019*3 14 0 52 go 6*3 6s DATE HOUR BP ws WD T A HUM TIDE DATE HOUR BP ws WD TA HUM TIDE 7/13/73 1 101900 12 0 52 90 4*7 7/16/73 1 1014o2 8 0 49 90 8.3 7/13/73 2 1019*0 10 355 52 90 2o7 7/16/73 2 1014s2 0 50 48 90 6@9 7/13/73 3 101609 9 0 52 90 0.9 7/16/73 3 1014*0 7 10 48 90 5.2 7/13/73 4 1018*8 7 0 52 90 -Oo4 7/16/73 4 1014@0 1 10 48 90 3* 1 7/13/73 5 1018*5 5 355 52 90 -Oo9 7/16/73 5 1014#0 3 360 50 90 110 7/13/73 6 1018e5 5 345 52 90 -0*7 7/16/73 6 101490 0 350 52 90 -0*2 7/13/73 7 1015*3 5 350 55 89 0*2 7/16/73 7 1014*1 1 190 55 93 -0-6 7/13/73 8 101803 7 340 55 80 1*7 7/16/73 8 1014* 1 4 225 54 86 -0-0 7/13/73 9 1018mO 12 350 58 73 3.4 7/16/73 9 1014.3 4 270 56 60 1.3 7/13/73 10 1017@9 14 345 60 67 4#8 7/16/73 10 1014*5 5 240 58 80 3.1 7/13/73 11 1017.5 15 345 62 58 5@6 7/16/73 11 1014o8 6 270 58 75 4.9 7/13/73 12 1017vO 17 345 64 60 6,1 7/16/73 12 1014*9 6 265 58 72 6*2 7/13/73 13 1016*5 17 345 66 57 5*9 7/16/73 13 1014*8 5 245 62 70 7.3 7/13/73 14 1016*0 16 350 68 54 5.3 7/16/73 14 1014*6 4 245 62 69 7*4 7/13/73 15 1015*5 16 350 68 55 4s4 7/16/73 15 1014*0 4 270 64 68 6*6 7./13/73 16 1015*1 18 355 67 56 368 7/16/73 16 1013s9 5 270 6& 70 5o5 7/13/73 17 1014*6 22 355 68 55 3.@ 7/16/73 17 1013o7 4 305 64 73 4o5 7/13/73 18 1014#2 22 350 68 54 3*9 7/16/73 18 1013*2 4 315 63 74 3o5 7/13/73 19 1014s2 20 345 62 66 4.9 7/16/73 19 1013@2 4 320 60 77 3.4 7/13/73 20 1014*7 17 0 60 68 6*0 7/16/73 20 10130 0 305 59 80 4.0 7/13/73 21 1014o9 13 0 58 76 7.3 7/16/73 21 1013*6 0 340 58 81 5.0 7/13/73 22 1015*1 17 345 54 83 8*1 7/16/73 22 101399 0 250 57 82 6v3 7/13/73 23 1015*1 18 355 56 83 893 7/16/73 23 1013*9 0 0 57 83 7*7 11/13/73 24 1015ol 14 350 54 83 7-5 7/16/73 24 101308 1 225 57 84 8.5 7/14/73 1 1015ol 8 15 54 90 6*0 7/17/73 1 1013*8- 1 215 56 84 8s6 7/14/73 2 1015.1 7 0 50 90 4*4 7/17/73 2 1013*6 1 180 56 85 7.8 7/14/73 3 1015s 1 5 0 48 90 2*3 7/17/73 3 1013.5 2 215 55 85 6.2 7/14/73 4 1015.1 4 350 49 90 0&5 7/17/73 4 1013o5 0 160 55 89 4.3 7/14/73 5 1015.2 3 350 50 90 -0&6 7/17/7.3 5 1013*5 1 200 55 89 2.2 7/14/73 6 1015.3 1 340 51 90 -C&S 7/17/73 6 101,+00 1 220 55 89 0*5 7/14/73 7 1015o4 7 0 52 89 -0*2 7/17/73 7 1014.1 0 220 55 59 -0.4 7/14/73 8 101595 10 355 56 80 1 0 1 7/17/73 8 10140 3 205 56 88 -0.3 7/14/73 9 1015.9 14 350 60 73 2.1 7/17/73 9 1014.5 5 230 57 86 Oo7 7/14/73 10 1016*0 14 345 65 67 4o5 7/17/73 10 1014.7 4 195 58 84 2.3 7/14/73 11 1016.0 16 340 67 58 5*7 7/17/73 11 1015*0 6 240 59 80 4.3 7/14/73 12 1015s9 14 345 66 60 6m5 7/17/73 12 1015*0 4 270 60 79 5.8 7/14/73 13 1015*9 12 345 65 57 6*7 7/17/73 13 1014@8 4 240 61 76 7.1, 7/14/73 14 1015.8 6 350 64 54 601 7/17/73 14 1014s5 4 230 61 74 7,7 7/14/73 15 1015a 5 14 350 60 55 5a2 7/17/73 15 1014*4 6 255 60 76 7.3 7/14/73 16 1015s2 15 350 58 56 4*3 7/17/73 16 1014*3 2 240 60 78 6*2 7/14/73 17 1015o2 16 350 54 55 3o7 7/17/73 17 101491 2 215 59 80 5.0 7/14/73 18 101591 20 350 54 54 3e7 7/17/73 18 1014#0 2 220 58 84 3.9 7/14/73 19 1015ol 18 355 54 66 4.4 1 7/17/73 19 1014sO 0 245 57 85 3.2 7/14/73 20 1015*2 16 355 54 68 5*4 7/17/73 20 1014*1 0 250 56 86 301 7/14/73 21 1016oO 16 0 54 76 6.7 7/17/73 21 1014*8 0 220 56 86 4.1 7/14/73 22 1016.2 13 0 53 83 7.9 7/17/73 22 1014-9 1 210 56 87 5*3 7/14/73 23 1016*2 12 5 53 83 8 5 7/17/73 23 1014*9 1 220 56 87 6-6 7/14/73 24 101693 13 0 53 83 8 : 3 7/17/73 24 1015*2 2 220 56 87 7.9 7/15/73 1 1016*2 12 0 53 90 7*4 7/18/73 1 1015s2 2 190 55 90 8*4 7/15/73 2 Iol6.2 13 0 52 90 5.7 7/18/73 2 1015ol 1 190 55 91 8.1 7/15/73 3 1016*2 15 0 52 90 399 7/18/73 3 1015#0 0 260 55 90 7#1 7/15/73 4 10160 13 0 52 90 1.7 7/18/73 4 1015@0 0 230 54 92 5.4 15 /73 5 1016*3 14 5 53 90 0.0 7/18/73 5 1015*0 2 175 54 92 3.4 7/15/73 6 1016#5 10 0 54 90 -0.7 7/18/73 6 1015ol 1 185 54 91 1*4 7/15/73 7 1016s6 11 0 55 90 -0.5 7/18/73 7 1015s2 3 195 55 91 0.1 7/15/73 8 1016*6 11 355 56 86 0*5 7/18/73 8 1015*5 3 210 56 90 -Oo2 7/15/73 9 1016*7 11 355 57 80 2*0 7/18/73 9 1015.8 2 230 56 90 0*3 7/15/73 10 1016e6 11 340 59 80 3*9 7/18/73 10 1016*0 3 245 56 89 lo7 7/15/73 11 1016*5 11 330 60 75 5.5 7/18/73 11 1016*2 4 225 57 84 305 '7115/73 12 1016.2 13 355 62 72 6*5 7/18/73 12 1016*2 6 210 60 72 5-3 7/15/73 13 1016o2 10 325 63 70 701 7/18/73 13 1016o2 6 210 61 68 6o7 7/15/73 14 1016oo 10 325 64 69 60 7/18/73 14 1016i2 5 210 61 68 7o 7 7/15/73 15 1015s5 9 330 64 68 5o8 7/18/73 15 1016o2 7 205 62 69 7,8 7/15/73 16 1015*1 7 335 64 70 4: 9 7/18/73 16 1016ol 7 205 60 74 6o9 7/15/73 17 101560 4 330 62 73 4"0 7/18/73 17 1016oO 6 210 58 68 5#7 7/15/73 18 1014*5 7 345 60 74 3 6 7/18/75 18 1016mO 5 225 56 86 4*3 7/15/73 19 1014#1 13 330 59 77 3 9 @/18/73 19 1016.0 6 200 55 90 3o3 7/15/73 20 1014*0 10 340 57 80 4: 8 7/18/73 20 1016.0 6 195 54 92 2oS 7/15/73 21 1014#0 5 350 55 81 6sO 7/18/73 21 1016*0 7 195 54 92 3*1 7/15/73 22 1014.1 7 335 53 82 7-4 7/18/73 22 1016*0 6 195 54 92 4ol 7/15/73 23 1014,2 5 @ 5 50 83 865 7/18/73 23 1016eO 2 215 54 92 5s3 7/15/73 24 1014,2 7 350 50 84 8s7 7/18/73 24 1016oO 3 181 14 92 6o6 ,6 6 DATE HOUR BP ws WD TA HUM TIDE DATE HOUR BP W5 WD TA HUM TIDE 7/19/73 1 101600 4 190 54 92 7s8 7/22/73 1 1018*4 4 5 56 82 3.2 7/19/73 2 1015.9 1 180 54 92 7*9 7/22/73 2 1018s4 2 20 56 82 4o4 7/19/73 3 1015*8 5 220 54 92 7*5 7/22/73 3 1018*2 3 60 56 83 5s4 7/19/73 4 1015.9 5 210 54 92 6*1 7/22/73 4 1018s2 1 130 54 90 5s9 7/19/73 5 lo15.9 6 195 54 92 4*5 7/22/73 5 101894 1 350 54 91 6*0 7/19/73 6 lo15.9 5 210 54 92 2.6 7/22/73 6 lOl8e6 4 260 54 90 5o4 7/19/73 7 101509 4 195 54 92 160 7/22/73 7 1018s9 3 290 56 82 4*5 7/19/73 8 1015s9 4 210 55 91 091 7/22/73 8 1018.9 4 10 58 76 3.2 7/19/73 9 1016*2 4 215 56 90 Oo2 7/22/73 9 101809 2 325 60 58 2*4 7/19/73 10 101b.3 4 240 58 83 1.2 7/22/73 10 101809 3 310 62 58 1.9 7/19/73 11 101694 3 240 58 83 2o7 7/22/73 11 101809 4 320 63 54 2.2 7/19/73 12 1017*8 6 215 59 79 4e6 7/22/73 12 101809 5 300 64 50 3.1 7/19/73 13 1018.8 11 220 58 79 6o2 7/22/73 13 101809 7 310 62 54 4.4 7/19/73 14- 1018*2 3 220 60 67 7s5 7/22/73 14 1018.9 7 355 62 57 5.8 7/19/73 15 101800 3 275 62 74 8.0 7/22/73 15 101809 9 340 62 57 7*2 7/19/73 16 101800 3 260 60 76 7.5 7/22/73 16 1018.3 8 345 63 56 S.I. 7/19/73 17 101800 6 220 60 82 6*4 7/22/73 17 101,801 8 345 62 52 8.4 7/19/73 18 101801 4 195 58 84 5*1 7/22/73 18 1018.0 6 340 60 57 7.9 7/19/73 19 1018*0 7 210 57 84 3*7 7/22/73 19 101801 6 350 59 64 6.7 7/19/73 20 1017.8 2 180 57 86 2*7 7/22/73 20 101801 3 0 56 74 5.3 7/19/73 21 1017*8 6 195 56 87 2.4 7/22/73 21 101803 3 355 54 84. 3*7 7/19/73 22 1017.6 4 190 56 87 2.8 7/22/73 22 1018.3 1 55 52 90 2.2 7/19/73 23 101.7&5 0 120 56 87 4*0 7/22/73 23 101803 2 60 51 90 1.4 @/19/73 24 1017.5 0 120 56 88 5.2 7/22/73 24 1018e3 2 55 51 90 lo2 7/20/73 1 1017*4 2 210 56 88 6*3 7/23/73 1 101803 1 70 51 90 1 7/20/73 2 1017.2 3 200 56 89 7.2 7/23/73 2 1018,3 2 75 51 90 2: 7/20/73 3 1017*0 3 190 56 89 7.5 7/23/73 3 1018*4 2 100 50 90 3:9 7/20/73 4 1017*0 2 200 56 89 6*7 7/23/73 4 1018*6 4 70 50 90 4 9 7/20/73 5 1017sO 1 210 55 89 5.4 7/23/73 5 101900 2 70 50 90 5o5 7/20/73 6 1017o2 4 195 56 89 3.8 7/23/73 6 1019s2 3 85 51 90 5*6 7/20/73 7 1017*3 3 185 56 89 2o3 7/23/73 7 1019*7 1 45 53 90 5s2 7/20/73 8 101800 6 205 57 88 009 7/23/73 8 1020*2 2 55 58 77 4*5 7/20/73 9 101800 7 200 58 84 0*5 7/23/73 9 1020*2 1 285 60 68 3.3 7/20/73 10 1018.2 7 210 60 88 101 7/23/73 10 1020*5 3 310 62 64 2*9 7/20/73 11 1018*5 7 205 58 82 2.3 7/23/73 11 1021sO 5 345 62 66 2#7 7/20/73 12 1018#6 7 205 60 80 4*0 7/23/73 12 102192 7 355 63 60 3*0 7/20/73 13 101806 6 225 62 75 5o7 7/23/73 13 1021s3 7 345 64 54 3*7 7/20/73 14 1018o7 6 235 60 78 7.1 7/23/73 14 1021o6 10 350 64 57 5oO 7/20/73 15 101808 6 215 61 81 800 7/23/73 15 1021s5 11 345 64 54 6*2 7/20/73 16 10180 8 4, 240 63 77 Bel 7/23/73 16 1021.4 11 345 63 59 7*4 7/20/73 17 101900 7 345 61 80 7.2 7/23/73 17 1021.3 9 345 62 59 80 1 7/20/73 18 101900 6 350 61 77 5.9 7/23/73 18 lo2l.3 9 345 60 62 6.3 7/20/73 19 1019.2 1 50 59 86 4.5 7/23/73 19 1021.3 8 345 60 64 7*7 7/20/73 20 lCl9s5 4 15 58 89 3ol 7/23/73 20 1021.5 9 350 57 73 6.4 7/20/73 21 1020sO 4 350 57 92 2.1 7/23/73 21 1021*8 4 350 55 81 4s9 7/20/73 22 1020oO 4 5 56 92 2*0 7/23/73 22 1022eO 0 60 52 88 3*2 7/20/73 23 1020,0 3 0 56 92 2.5 1 7/23/73 23 1022sO 1 75 51 90 1*7 7/20/73 24 1020*0 3 355. 56 92 3.6 7/23/73 24 1022*1 2 60 50 90 068 7/21/73 1 1020*0 2 15 56 92 5@8 7/24/73 1 1022o2 4 75 49 90 005 7/21/73 2 1020*0 1 235 55 92 5o9 7/24/73 2 102293 5 '100 49 90 0.9 7/21/73 3 1020*0 1 355 55 92 6*5 7/24/73 3 1022e3 4 95 49 90 1*7 7/21/73 4 1020*0 1 225 54 92 6o6 7/24/73 4 1022*4 6 90 49 90 2*9 7/21/73 5 1020oO 1 180 54 92 5.9 7/24/73 5 1022,5 4 105 49 90 4.1 7/21/73 .6 1020*1 1 240 5.6 92 4*7 7/24/73 6 1022*7 5 90 50 90 4*9 7/21/73 7 1020eO 3 125 58 92 3*2 7/24/73 7 1023oO 4 75 53 85 503 7/21/73 8 1020*0 5 240 60 86 2el 7/24/73 8 1023o2 3 0 60 72 5*2 7/21/73 9 1020sO 6 235 62 76 192 7/24/73 9 1023*5 5 355 66 58 4.7 7/21/73 10 1020oO 7 235 62 71 1*2 7/24/73 10 1023o5 8 350 66 53 3o9 7/21/73 11 1020a2 7 235 64 74 109 7/24/73 11 102397 9 350 67 53 3o4 7/21/73 12 1020*0 6 215 62 80 3o3 7/24/73 12 1023,8 9 345 66 50 3*1 7/21/73 13 101989 6 220 64 74 4.9 7/24/73 13 1023.9 11 345 68 50 3*3 7/21/73 14 1019i6 5 295 62 76 6i4 7/24/73 14 1024jO 10 345 70 49 5il 7/21/73 15 1 330 65 64 7o7 7/24/73 15 1024*0 10 345 68 48 5e2 7/21/73 16 1019o2 5 240 64 69 8.2 7/24/73 16 1024*1 12 345 67 52 6*3 7/21/73 17 101809 5 215 64 68 7o9 7/24/73 17 1024*0 13 345 66 54 7o5 7/21/73 18 101897 6 215 62 76 6*9 7/24/73 18 1024al 11 350 66 54 892 7/21/73 19 1018o4 6 205 60 82 505 7/24/73 19 102401 8 350 64 55 8*4 7/21/73 20 1018*4 6 205 59 84 4*0 7/24/73 20 1024*2 6 355 60 66 7*7 7/21/73 21 1018*4 7 355 58 86 2*7 7/24/73 21 1024o5, 5 10 59 78 6*4 7/21/73 22 1018.4 10 0 58 88 108 7/24/73 22 1024,8 5 350 56. 84 4o8 7/21/73 23 1018o4 8 15 56 82 197 .7/24/73 23 1024*8 2 120 54 88 2*8 7/21/73 24 1018*4 6 10 56 82 2o2 7/24/73 24 1024*8 0 95 53 89 lo2 7 DATE HOUR BP Ws WD TA HUM TIDE DATE HOUR BP WD T A HUY - TIDE 7/25/73 1 1024*9 3 60 52 89 -0.0 7/28/73 1 1015.8 3 80 53 89 4-9 7/25/73 2 1024.9 3 65 52 90 -0.3 7/28/73 2 1015*6 2 50 52 89 2.3 -7/25/73 3 1024.9 2 60 51 90 -OsO 7/28/73 3 1015o5 1 90 51 89 -000 7/25/73 4 1024*9 4 70 51 90 009 7/28/73 4 1015@6 2 0 52 89 -1.6 7/25/73 5 1C.24.9 2 75 50 90 2-1 7/28/73 5 1015.6 1 60 52 89 -2*0 7/25/ 7-4 6 1025.0 3 75 52 90 3*5 7/28/73 6 1015e6 0 90 52 89 -lo4 7/25/73 7 1025o2 2 30 55 86 4e7 7/28/73 7 1015, 7 0 330 56 89 0.2 7/25/73 8 1025*3 2 0 60 77 5-3 7/28/73 8 1015oB 7 345 60 83 2.0 7/25/73 9 1025.4 5 350 66 60 5*5 7/28/73 9 1015#9 12 350 62 74 4*2 7/25/73 10 1025.2 10 345 66 59 501 7/28/73 10 1015*8 10 355 66 65 5m9 7/25/73 11 1024*8 15 350 68 56 495 7/28/73 11 1015s6 15 345 64 66 7.0 7/25/73 12 1024o5 11 350 69 56 3sS 7/28/73 12 1015s2 19 345 64 71 7.3 7/25/73 13 1024o2 14 350 70 53 3@4 7/28/73 13 1014.9 22 350 64 74 6.5 7/25/73 14 1023*9 12 0 71 53 3-6 7/28/73 14 1014e9 20 0 66 72 5a3 7/25/73 15 1023*7 16 350 68 57 4#2 7/28/73 15 1014.1 19 345 66 70 4.1 11 /25/73 16 1023.2 IS 350 69 58 5o2 7/28/73 16 1013m8 20 350 63 74 3o 1 7/25/73 17 1022.7 19 0 70 54 6*4 7/28/73 17 1013#5 14 355 63 75 2.9 7/2,1@/73 18 1021.9 20 350 68 54 7@6 7/28/73 18 1013*2 14 340 60 78 3.7 7/25/73 19 I021e8 19 0 66 59 8*4 7/28/73 19 1013*1 15 350 60 73 5.0 7/25/73 2 r) 1021*9 18 0 62 68 8*7 7/28/73 20 1013o 1 18 350 58 82 C) . 8 7/25/73 21 1022*1 16 5 61 75 8-0 7/28/73 21 1013*4 19 35C 56 8F 8.5 7/25/73 22 1022*2 17 355 60 80 6.6 7/28/73 22 1013.9 11 350 54 88 9.8 7/25/73 23 1022o2 17 355 59 86 4.9 7/28/73 23 1014*0 14 350 53 90 10.0 7/25/73 24 1022*2 11 0 57 88 2o7 7/28/73 24 1014s4 15 0 52 90 9.1 7/26/73 1 1022*0 9 10 56 89 0.7 7/29/73 1 1C14.2 17 355 50 90 7.2 7/26/73 2 1021*7 4 350 54 90 -0*6 7/29/73 2 1014e3 13 350 49 90 4*9 ?/26/73 3 1021.5 9 1C 54 90 -1.0 7/29/73 3 1014.6 9 15 50 90 2a 1 7/26/73 4 ID 2 1 . 5 8 0 52 90 -0.7 7/29/73 4 1014.9 13 10 50 90 -0*4 7/26/73 5 1021.6 1 20 50 90 0*2 7/29/73 5 1015,1 5 30 51 90 -1.9 7/26/73 6 1021*6 7 355 52 91 Is7 7/29/73 6 1015o5 13 0 51 89 -2.2 7/26/73 7 1021o5 9 355 57 90 3o3 7/29/73 7 1016*1 10 0 51 89 -1*2 7/26/73 F 1021.4 11 0 60 78 4*7 7/29/73 8 101696 12 350 53 89 0.6 7/26/ 73 9 1021*2 15 355 62 74 5s8 7/29/73 9 1017al 10 355 55 84 2.8 7/26/73 10 1020.7 15 350 64 68 5o9 7/29/73 10 201791 16 345 58 80 4.9 7/26/73 11 1020s3 18 350 64 66 5.7 7/29/73 11 1017*0 16 340 60 72 6.8 7/26/73 12 1019 o 8 20 350 66 65 4.9 7/29/73 12 1017*2 17 345 62 68 7.8 7/2 C- / 73 13 1019.5 22 350 67 66 4al 7/29/73 13 1017oB 8 330 63 64 7.7 7/26/73 14 1019, 1 23 350 66 66 3*5 7/29/73 14 101810 5 355 63 64 6o5 7/26/73 15 1018 . 6 20 0 66 66 3*5 7/29/73 15 101800 7 340 61 69 5.1 7/26/73 16 1018oO 24 355 66 66 4.1 7/29/73 16, 1017,7 8 340 59 78 3*6 7/26/73 17 1017.1 28 355 65 68 5*2 7/29/73 17 1017*4 8 345 57 84 2.5 7/26/73 18 1016*3 24 355 62 75 695 7/29/73 18 1017*2 10 345 55 86 293 7/26/73 19 1016*2 22 355 60 84 7oB 7/29/73 19 1017ol 11 350 53 88 3*2 7/26/73 20 1016.2 17 0 56 87 8.8 7/29/73 20 1017.1 12 355 50 90 4*8 7/26/73 21 1016s5 22 5 56 87 9.i 7/29/73 21 1017o2 13 355 50 90 6.6 7/26/73 22 1016.6 16 350 56 88 8.4 7/29/73 22 1017.3 12 355 50 90 8.4 7/26/73 23 1016.6 15 10 55 89 6*8 7/29/73 23 1017e6 12 0 50 90 997 7/26/73 24 1016.5 8 20 54 90 4.9 7/29/73 24 1017o7 8 355 49 90 10*0 W7/73 1 1016,2 2 20 53 90 2*5 7/30/73 1 1017.8 6 0 50 90 8.8 7/27/73 2 1016oO 7 350 52 90 0.2 7/30/73 2 10 17 * 8 8 350 49 90 6.8 7/27/73 3 1015*8 5 0 49 90 -1.1 7/30/73 3 1017*9 10 0 50 90 4.5 7/27/73 4 101508 2 5 50 90 -1*6 7/30/73 4 1018.0 7 350 50 90 1.5 7 1015*7 2 105 52 90 -1@2 , /27/73 5 7/30/73 5 101801 6 355 51 89 -0*8 7/27/73 6 IC15,9 4 10 52 90 000 7/30/73 6 101305 5 350 51 89 -2,2 7/27/73 7 1015s9 3 45 54 90 lo7 7/30/73 7 101809 4 345 52 83 -2.2 7/27/73 8 1015.8 4 350 58 89 3*6 7/30/73 8 1019.1 6 350 53 88 -0.7 7/27/73 9 .1015.4 5 345 64 70 5.2 7/30/73 9 101901 6 355 55 86 1.3 11/27/73 10 1015,0 7 355 68 64 6.3 7/30/73 10 1019*2 12 345 58 84 3-6 7/27/73 11 1015*1 12 340 66 64 6.7 7/30/73 11 1019e3 13 345 60 77 5 * 8 7/27/73 12 1015*0 10 340 69 63 6.1 7/30/73 12 1019o5 17 340 62 72 7.5 7/27/73 13 1015oO 13 350 72 56 5o2 7/30/73 13 1019.5 16 345 63 66 B-3 7/27/73 14 1015,0 12 340 70 58 4a2 7/30/73 14 1019i5 15 345 62 72 7o7 7/27/73 15 1015,0 12 325 68 62 315 7/30/73 15 1019*1 13 350 61 76 6.3 7/27/73 16 1014s9 8 0 68 64 3*2 7/30/73 16 1018*9 16 355 59 82 4o6 7/27/73 17 10 14 * 9 15 345 69 64 3.9 7/30/73 17 1018s7 16 0 57 84 2.9 7/27/73 18 1014.9 15 345 64 76 5*0 7/30/73 18 101896 18 350 55 86 1.9 7/27/73 19 1015*0 17 345 62 79 696 7/30/73 19 1018o5 16 355 53 88 1.7 7/27/73 20 1015*0 16 345 60 84 Sol 7/30/73 20 1018*8 15 0 50 90 2o7 7 / 2 7 / 7 3 21 1015*2 13 355 58 86 9o4 7/30/73 21 1019.0 14 350 50 90 4*5 7/27/73 22 101505 7 340 54 89 9.7 7/30/73 22 1019.1 15 355 50 90 6.3 7/27/73 23 1015.9 8 355 54 89 808 7/30/73 23 1019#3 13 355 50 90 Bel 7/27/73 24 1015*9 4 85 53 89 7*1 7/30/73 24 1019*5 11 350 49 90 9*4 68 DATE HOUR sp ws WD T A HUM TIDE DATE HOUR RP ws W D T A HUM TIDE 7/31/73 1 1019.6 10 355 48 90 9-5 B/ 3/73 1 1018*6 14 5 55 88 5*3 7/31/73 2 1019.8 110 5 48 90 8o2 8/ 3/73 2 1018.6 12 355 55 88 6o5 7/31/73 3 1020sO 6 5 49 90 6-2 S / 3/73 3 1018o6 14 5 54 86 7*2 7/31/73 4 102000 6 30 50 90 3*6 8/ 3/73 4 1018.6 13 0 54 88 6.8 7/31/73 5 1020ol 7 15 50 90 009 8/ 3/73 5 1013*7 18 10 55 88 5o6 7/31/73 6 1020*6 10 355 50 90 @l 9 1 8/ 3/73 6 1018*8 13 355 56 87 4oO 7/31/73 7 10 2 1 * 0 12 0 52 89 -1.9 8/ 3/73 7 1018*9 12 0 58 84 2*2 7. /31/73 6 102190 10 350 54 88 -1*6 8/ 3/73 8 1019sO 13 350 59 78 0*9 7/31/73 9 1021.0 16 355 56 86 0-1 B/ 3/73 9 1019.4 14 350 60 77 0:4 7/31/73 10 1020.9 15 355 58 76 2*3 B/ 3/73 10 1019s8 12 345 61 72 0 9 7/31/73 11 1020*9 15 350 59 72 4-7 8/ 3/73 11 1019*9 14 350 60 70 1.9 7/@1/73 12 1020.8 17 345 60 70 6*7 B/ 3/73 12 1020.0 12 350 62 69 3*8 7/31/73 13 1020.4 17 345 60 70 8.2 B/ 3/73 13 1020.0 10 345 62 67 5-5 7/31/73 14 1020*2 15 350 60 70 8*6 S/ 3/73 14 1019.9 11 355 62 67 7* 1 a 7 / 3.1 / 7 3 15 1020.3 17 3 "1 0 59 74 7.5 F / 3/73 15 1019-5 13 345 61 67 8.2 7/31/73 16 1020*0 17 350 58 78 5*8 B/ 3/73 16 1019o3 12 350 60 68 8*3 7/31/73 17 1019oB 20 355 55 82 4-1 S/ 3/73 17 1019.0 14 350 59 72 7.4 7/31/73 18 1019.6 17 350 52 86 2.2 8/ 3/73 IS 1018.9 13 345 57 74 5.7 7/31/73 19 1019.4 IF 0 50 90 1.3 B/ 3/73 19 1018.9 17 0 56 82 4.2 7/3 1 /73 20 1019.6 17 355 50 90 1.3 8/ 3/73 20 12 355 55 84 2.3 7/31/73 21 11,19.8 16 355 50 90 2.5 B/ 3/73 21 10 18 * 9 14 350 55 86 1.0 7/31/73 22 1019*9 15 350 50 90 4*2 B/ 3/73 22 1018s9 15 350 55 89 0.6 7/31/73 23 1019.9 9 345 49 90 6.0 B/ 3/73 23 1019*0 13 345 55 89 1 0 1 7/31/73 21+ 1-020*0 10 350 49 90 7s7 6/ 3/73 24 1019*0 10 350 55 89 29 1 @@ / 1/73 1 1020.2 10 350 48 90 8*7 S/ 4/73 1 101900 6 345 54 89 3.6 8/ 1/73 2 1023.3 '. 2 355 48 90 Bo7 81 4/73 2 1019.0 5 355 54 89 4.9 8/ 1/73 3 1020*4 9 5 -49 90 7.4 S/ 4/73 3 1018.9 7 350 55 89 5.9 8/ 1/73 4 1020.5 9 5 50 90 5*4 8/ 4/73 4 1018.9 3 15 55 89 6.3 8/ 1/73 5 1020#7 7 5 50 90 2.9 8/ 4/73 5 .1018.8 5 345 54 89 691 8/ 1/73 6 1020*8 8 350 50 90 0.6 B/ 4/73 6 101899 6 0 54 89 5 : 0 -H / 1/73 7 1020.8 12 355 50 90 -1.1 8/ 4/73 7 101809 6 350 56 89 3 8 8/ 1/73 8 1021*0 12 355 54 88 -1.4 8/ 4/73 8 101900 5 0 59 87 2.4 S/ 1/73 9 1021.1 11 355 56 84 -0*4 8/ 4/73 9 101900 4 345 62 80 197 B/ 1/73 10 1021.2 17 355 58 78 Is3 8/ 4/73 10 101899 5 355 63 73 1.4 8/ 1/73 11 1021.2 18 345 60 74 395 B/ 4/73 11 1018*6 6 0 66 65 2.0 8/ 1/73 1.2 102le 1 20 350 61 71 5.6 B/ 4/73 12 1018*7 14 340 65 66 3o3 !; / 1/73 13 1021*0 19 345 61 71 7*5 8/ 4/73 13 1018o5 11 350 65 68 4*9 8/ 1/73 14 1020.9 20 @3 5 0 62@ 6 9. 8.6 8/ 4/13 14 1018.5 14 345 64 72 6.3 8/ 1/73 15 1020.5 22 355 61 .70 8*4 S/ 4/73 15 1018*2 15 350 63 69 7*7 a/ 1/73 16 1020.0 24 355 60 73 7*0 8/ 4/73 16 1017.9 13 345 62 74 8.2 8/ 1/73 17 1019.6 24 0 59 76 5.3 B/ 4/73 17 1017o7 7 350 61 76 8.1 8/ 1/73 1 1019*2 24 355 58 82 3 * 2 8/ 4/73 18 1017*3 15 350 58 84 7* 1 8/ 1/73 19 1019.2 20 0 55 87 106 B/ 4/73 19 1017e3 17 355 57 86 5 : 7 8 / 1/73 20 10 19 . 4 23 5 54 88 0.8 8/ 4/73 20 1017s2 15 350 57 87 4 0 8/ 1/73 21 1020.0 17 0 53 89 16,0 i 8/ 4/73 21 1017e5 17 355 56 87 2o3 1 8/ 4/73 22 1017.7 13 355 56 87 1*3 3/ 1/73 22 1020.0 13 0 52 89 2.2 @i / 1/73 23 1020.1 10 350 51 90 3.9 8/ 4/7*3 23 1018*0 15 15 56 87 009 B/ 1/73 24 1020*2 7 345 50 90 5*6 8/ 4/73 24 1018*0 12 15 54 87 Io2 8/ 2/73 1 1020*4 1 60 48 90 7*1 8/ 5/73 1 1018sO 12 355 53 88 2*1 H/ 2/73 2 1020.3 4 340 50 90 7*9 8 / 5/73 2, 1018.0 5 15 52 90 3.3 8 / 2/73 3 1020*1 2 30 50 90 7o8 8/ 5/73 3 1017*9 3 40 50 90 4o6 S/ 2/73 4 1020*0 0 80 50 90 6*3 S/ 5/73, 4 1017*9 1 80 50 90 5.4 8/ 2/73 5 102C.0 0 100 49 90 4.6 B/ 5/73 5 1017*9 3 25 50 90 5m7 8/ 2/73 6 1020al 1 90 50 90 2*3 B/ 5/73 6 101800 2 35 52 90 5.5 S/ 2/73 7 1020*1 2 45 52 89 0*4 8/ 5/73 7 1018sO 2 35 56 B 8 4*B 9/ 2/73 8 1020o3 10 355 56 8.2 -0*5 8/ 5/73 8 1018,0 5 355 60 72 3o8 B/ 2/73 9 1020.1 12 345 62 70 -0.4 8/ 5/73 9 1018*0 6 3.40 62 65 2.9 S/ 2/73 10 1020*0 14 345 60 69 007 8/ 5/73 10 1017e9 9 350 64 63 2-5 8/ 2/73 11 1019.8 18 350 62 68 2o6 8/ 5/73 11 101796 5 355 66 58 2.5 a / 2/73 12 10'. 9 . 8 11 350 62 68 4.6 B/ 5/73 12. 10 17 * 1 13 345 66 59 3*3 8/ 2/73 13 1019*7 16 340 63 66 6.5 8/ 5/73 13 1017al 12 350 66 59 4o4 8/ 2/73 14 101945 17 345 .63 66 a io 8/' 5/73 14 1017iO 11 345 66 62 5*6 8/ 2/73 15 1018.9 17 345 62 66 8 , .6 8 @ 5/73 15 1016.7 12 345 66 64 6*8 8/ 2/73 16 101895 16 350 62 68 8.0 B/ 5/73 16 1016*5 4 335 65 66 7*7 B/ 2/73 17 101799 19 345 61 71 6,6 8/ 5/73 17 10160 3. 20 64 72 80 1 B/ 2/73 18 1017*6 22 355 60 75 4*8 8/ 5/73 18 1015e8 1 350 60 84 7*8 8/ 2/73 19 1017o5 19 355 57 84 3*9 8/ 5/73 19 1015*5 3 350 60 86 6.7 8/ 2/73 20 1017.5 19 5 56 66 1.3 8/ 5/73 20 1015*5 2 335 56 88 5*5 2/73 21 1017.7 24 0 56 86 006 8/ 5/73 21 1015*5 5 5 57 89 4.0 2/73 22 10118*0 21 350 55 68 100 S/ 5/73 22 1015*5 7 5 57 89 2*5 B/ 2/73 23 1018*1 16 0 55 88 2e3 B/ 5/73 23 10150 7 355 56 89 1*6 8/ 2/73 24 1018*7 15 5 55 88 3*8 8/ 5/73 24 1015o2 9 5 56 89 1 1 69 DATE HOUR BP '45 WD TA HUM TIDE DATE HOUR 8P ws WD TA HUM TIDE 8/ 6/73 1 io.1501 9 0 57 88 Is3 8/ 9/73 1 1017*2 3 205 53 90 2.3 B/ 6/73 2 1015 0 0 a 5 57 88 2-1 8/ 9/73 2 1017s5 3 195 53 90 1 0 1 8/ 6/73 3 1015*0 11 0 57 88 3*3 .81 9/73 3 1017*7 0 190 53 90 0.8 8/ 6/73 4 IOl5eO 10 350 57 87 4-3 8-/ 9/73 4 10170 3 205 54 90 009 8/ 6/73 5 1015*1 7 5 57 86 5o 1 8/ 9/73 5 1017*4 4 355 54 90 1-7 B/ 6/73 6 1015*2 6 5 57 87 5*5 8/ 9/73 6 101800 6 220 54 90 2.7 B/ 6/73 7 1015*2 7 345 58 85 5*5 8/ 9/73 7 1018*7 3 255 55 90 3-9 8/ 6/73 8 1015*4 8 355 59 61 5*0 B/ 9/73 8 1019.3 2 210 55 90 5.0 8/ 6/73 9 1015*5 13 355 60 76 4.5 B/ 9/73 9 101905 6 320 56 90 5.9 8/ 6/73 10 1015o7 12 345 60 74 3*9 8/ 9/73 10 1019.4 4 325 56 89 6o2 9/ 6/73 11 1015o8 13 345 60 73 3*5 8/ 9/73 11 1019.5 4 320 54 89 6.0 9/ 6/73 12 1015o7 14 340 61 71 3*7 8/ 9/73 12 1019,6 1 345 54 89 5o6 H1 6/73 13 1015*5 15 345 61 71 492 F/ 9/73 13 101907 7 325 56 88 5.0 8/ 6/73 14 1015.2 15 350 62 69 591 81 9/73 14 1019.8 9 355 59 82 4*5 8/ 6/73 15 1015oO 15 350 62 65 6ol 31 9/73 15 102000 8 355 62 74 4.4 R/ 6/73 16 1014o8 16 350 60 70 7.1 @/ 9/73 16 1020.0 1 330 62 72 4-6 S/ 6/73 17 IOl4s3 14 345 59 74 798 @,i/ 9/73 17 1020*0 2 240 59 80 5.3 B/ 6/73 IS 1014.2 15 355 56 80 8.0 61 9/73 18 1019.8 4 195 56 88 6.2 ,9/ 6/73 19 1014#3 11 5 57 85 7s7 q / 9/73 19 1020.0 3 200 55 F 8 7. 1 @/ 6/73 20 1014o5 9 10 57 84 6*7 8/ 9/73 20 1020.3 1 190 54 88 7-9 S/ 6/73 21 1014o8 7 15 57 84 5*5 S/ 9/73 21 1020o5 2 195 54 88 8*1 8/ 6/73 22 1014.9 7 10 57 84 4*1 81 9/73 22 1020.4 1 185 54 BE 7*6 3/ 6/73 2 1 1014*9 5 20 57 94 2*8 8/ 9/73 23 1020.4 0 275 54 BE 6.4 S/ 6/73 24 1014#9 3 340 58 85 1#7 S1 9/73 24 102Os4 0 5 54 88 5.0 8/ 7/73 1 1014.9 3 295 56 68 1.3 8/10/73 1 1020*4 1 0 56 82 3.2 8/ 7/73 2 l014v9 2 300 56 89 1*4 8/10/73 2 1020.4 1 10 55 80 1-7 q/ 7/73 3 1014oB 2 20 56 89 2ol 8/10/73 3 1020.4 4 25 56 77 0.7 9/ 7/73 4 1014*9 2 320 54 89 3sO 8/10/73 4 1020o4 3 345 57 77 0*2 8/ 7/73 5 1015.0 0 345 54 90 4*1 8/10/73 5 1020.7 3 345 57 76 Oo6 3/ 7/73 6 1015*0 1 290 53 90 4*9 8/10/73 6 1021.0 4 5 57 74 1*4 @l /7/73 7 1015.2 2 200 54 90. 545 8/10/73 7 102103 6 5 58 74 2.7 8/ 7/73 8 1015*8 1 235 56 90 5.6 8/10/73 8 1021.6 5 5 59 66 4.2 S/ 7/73 9 101600 3 280 58 87 5@5 8/10/73 9 1021*8 9 360 60 66 5o4 P1 7/73 10 1016oO 2 290 58 87 501 8/10/73 10 1021*8 9 355 61 62 6.2 8/ 7/73 11 1016o2 1 315 58 87 4*6 8/10/73 11 1021*7 10 355 62 60 6*3 8/ 7/73 12 1016*2 3 315 60 80 4.3 6/10/73 12 1021*5 10 350 62 57 6.0 8/ 7/73 13 1016s3 3 320 63 70 4&3 8/10/73 13 1021*4 11 335 63 57 543 d/ 7/73 14 1016*1 2 325 62 71 497 8/10/73 14 1021.3 12 .340 63 57 4.7 8 /7/73 15 1016*0 5 310 60 72 5.4 8/10/73 15 102098 10 345 63 55 4.1 R1 7/73 16 1015*7 7 310 62 76 6.2 8/10/73 16 1020#3 10 345 62 56 3.9 @i/ 7/73 17 1015P6 4 300 60 74 7*1 8/10/73 17 102000 9 350 61 56 4*4 :V 8/10/73 18 1019.7 10 345 60 63 5,2 - 7/73 18 1015o6 3 300 58 78 7oB 8 /7/73 19 1015#5 1 350 56 84 800 8/10/73 19 1019.6 7 350 58 68 6.2 8/ 7/73 20 1015o 7 0 285 56 85 7.6 8/10/73 20 1019*7 11 355 57 73 7.3 ,@/ 7/73 21 101509 0 210 56 86 6.7 8/10/73 21 101908 9 345 @6 75 7.9 R/ 7/73 22 101600 1 0 56 86 5.5 i 8/10/73 22 1019*5 9 345 54 81 8.1 S/ 7/73 23 1016.0 0 300 56 85 4*0' 8/10/73 23 1019s3 5 5 52 85 7.4 3/ 7/73 24 1016#1 1 260 56 86 2 :6 8/10/73 24 101903 6 355 50 88 6.1 8/ P/73 1 101601 4 15 56 86 1 6 8/11/73 1 1019*2 5 10 48 88 4.4 R /R/73 2 1016*1 2 350 56 87 1 . 1 8/11/73 2 101809 3 45 48 89 2.6 8/ 8/73 3 1016*1 4 0 56 87 1*2 8/11/73 3 1018.7 1 25 49 89 ISO 8/ P/73 4 1016#1 4 10 56 89 1.8 8/11/73 4 1018*6 3 10 50 89 -(l-C 8/ 9/73 5 101601 5 10 55 90 2s8 8/11/73 5 1018.7 0 50 51 89 -Os2 S/ 8/73 6 1016*2 4 5 56 90 3*9 8/11/73 6 loisea 9 10 52 89 0*4 P /8/73 7 1016*3 6 5 56 89 4.9 8/11/73 7 1018.8 4 355 53 87 1*6 8 /E/73 8 101648 5 345 57 88 5*6 6/11/73 8 101808 6 5 54 87 3.1 S/ 8/73 9 1017.0 5 345 58 85 509 8/11/73 9 1018s6 9 0 56 87 4*7 -5/ 8/73 10 1017*1 6 355 59 80 5.7 8/11/73 10 1018.3 12 355 59 73 5.8 S/ 8/73 11 1017*7 9 350 61 75 5:4 8/11/73 11 1017.9 14 350 59 70 6.5 8/ 8/73 12 1017m6 7 340 62 72 5,0 8/11/73 12 1017*4 14 350 60 70 6.6 8/ F/73 13 1017*5 12 350 62 74 4 5 8/11/73 13 IOl6e8 17 350 60 70 5*9 7 3 14 10170 12 345 67 76 40 8/11/73 14 1016i5 14 350 61 70 5,1 P/73 15 1017.0 13 340 60 80 4.7 8/11/73 15 101690 13 350 61 72 4.2 8 17 3 16 1016.8 7 330 59 85 5*4 8/11/73 16 101595 13 355 60 77 3.7 9/73 17 1016.7 4 305 57 85 6.2 8/11/73 17 1015oO 13 355 59 80 3.6 8/ 8/73 18 1016.7 2 245 56 87 7*1 8/11/73 18 10140 14 0 58 85 4.2 ,9/ P/73 19 1016s6 3 300 55 90 7*7 8/11/73 19 1014.5 16 0 56 88 5s3 B/ 8/73 26 1016s7 3 325 55 90 8sO 8/11/73 20 101497 15 355 54 88 6.4 ,4/ 8/73 21 1016*9 3 320 53 90 7*6 8/11/73 21 1014.9 12 340 53 88 7*7 8/ 9/73 22 1016o9 0 205 53 90 6*7 8/11/73 22 1014*9 10 350 53 88 8.2 9/ 8/73 23 1017oO 0 15 53 90 5.4 8/11/73 23 1014*9 9 350 53 88 8.1 8/ 8/73 24 1017*1 o 335 53 90 3s9 8/11/73 24 101499 9 345 52 88 7.2 70 DATE HOUR BP ws WD TA HUM TIDE 8/12/73 1 1014*7 10 360 52 88 5*6 8/12/73 2 1014*8 8 350 52 88 3*7 8/12/73 3 1013o5 8 355 52 88 1*7 8/12/73 4 1013@5 5 35 52 88 Oo3 8/12/73 5 1013*7 1 305 52 88 -0*2 9/12/73 6 1014.3 5 310 52 ES -0.1 R/12/73 7 1014s4 5 270 53 38 Oo8 8/12/73 8 1014*8 2 235 53 88 2-3 8/12/73 9 1015.2 2 240 54 88 4*0 3/12/73 10 1015.1 6 240 56 85 5.6 8/12/73 11 1015.1 4 225 57 75 6*6 8/12/73 12 1015.C 4 230 59 76 7*1 R/12/73 13 1014.9 5 220 59 76 6--6 8/12/73 14 1014s9 6 210 60 78 5o7 8/12/73 15 1014.9 9 200 59 83 4.5 8/12/73 16 1015*2 9 200 58 80 3*5 8/12/73 17 1015.0 9 210 58 83 3.1 8/12/73 lR 1014*8 9 200 57 85 3o5 9/12/73 19 1015.0 10 195 56 88 4.4 8/12/73 20 1015*2 9 195 56 88 5.6 8/12/73 21 1016*0 6 195 56 88 6-0 8/12/73 22 1016.0 5 190 56 86 8.1 8/12/73 2@ 101601 5 195 55 88 3*5 8/12/73 24 1016.2 4 '185 56 88 Sol 8/13/73 1 101693 6 195 56 88 6o7 8/13/73 2 1016e4 5 195 56 88 5ol 8/13/73 3 1016.5 5 200 55 88 2o9 8/13/73 4 1016.6 6 195 55 88 lel P/13/73 5 1016.8 5 185 55 88 -0*2 9/13/73 6 1017.4 3 190 55 88 -0*4 9/13/73 7 1018.2 7 195 55 88 001 8/13/73 8 1018.5 7 200 56 94 1.5 8/13/73 9 1018.6 2 210 57 94 3.3 8/13/73 10 1019o2 3 210 58 94 5*0 8/13/73 11 1019*7 1 250 57 92 6.5 8/13/73 12 101908 0 290 56 90 7o2 8/13/73 13 1020*0 1 310 60 85 7@2 8/13/73 14 101908 2 305 63 80 6ol 8/13/73 15 1019*6 1 350 62 83 5oO 8/13/73 16 1019*4 5 345 60 85 3.7 8/13/73 17 1019*2 7 350 62 85 2*7 8/13/73 18 101809 8 355 60 86 2*5 9/13/73 19 1018*9 13 355 58 87 301 8/13/73 20 1018o9 10 345 57 88 4*4 8/13/73 21 1019*0 11 355 57 88 5*7 8/13/73 22 1019*0 11 355 57 88 7e2 8/13/73 23 1019.0 9 355 56 88 8.2 8/13/73 24 101991 11 0 55 86 8*3 1019al 12 0 55 88 7*5 ,/14/73 1 8/14/73 2 1019.1 4 10 54 88 508 8/14/73 3 1019*2 10 355 52 90 4*0 8/14/73 4 1019*3 3 10 50 92 109 8/14/73 5 1019o4 5 355 49 92 Oal t 8/14/73 6 1019i5 3 20 48 92 -0*6 5/14/73 7 1020oO 5 350 50 92 -0*6 8/14/73 8 1020*2 10 350 56 82 0*6 8/14/73 9 1020*2 12 345 58 74 2,2 8/14/73 10 1020.2 17 350 60 69 4.i 0/14/73 11 1020*1 17 345 60 67 5.8 j@/14/73 12 1019@7 18 345 61 67 7*0 8/14/73 13 1019*7 17 350 62 66 7s4 8/14/73 14 101992 17 345 61 66 6o7 8/14/73 15 1018*9 16 345 61 66 5*4 8/14/73 16 1013s5 18 355 60 66 4al 8/14/73 17 1018.0 20 355 60 68 2*7 8/14/73 18 1017s7 18 0 58 70 2@0 8/14/73 19 1017.7 16 0 56 75 109 8/14/73 20 1017.7 17 5 .55 78 2*9 R/14/73 21 1017.9 19 0 54 82 4o4 8/14/73 22 101709 12 355 52 84 5*9 8/14/73 23 1017*8 14 360 50 85 7.2 8/14/73 24 1017s9 12 350 4B 90 801 71 WAVE DATA DATE HOUR T HID H3 0, A T E HOUR T H10 H3 D AT E HOUR T HID H3 7/ 1/73 1 7o43 5.1 4*0 7/16/73 1 a.40 8ml 6-4 7/31/73 1 6*02 2.2 1.7 7/ 1/73 7 7o46 4*8 3.7 7/16/73 7 7*92 6.0 4.8 7/31/73 1 5,60 2.1 1.6 7/ 1/73 13 7o53 3*3 2-6 7/16/73 13 8@56 8&2 6-5 7/31/73 13 6.50 3-5 2.-, 7/ 1/73 19 6*80 390 2*3 7/16/73 19 8,87 7 . 1 5-6 7/31/73 19 5.68 2*0 1-6 7/ 2/73 1 6.62 2o2 I o 7 7/17/73 1 8.01 5.9 4.7 B/ 1/73 1 5.61 2.4 1 . 8 7/ 2/73 7 6 * 7 -;@ 2*4 1.9 7/ 1'7/73 7 8*22 6e2 4o9 S/ 1/73 7 5*85 2.0 1.6 7/ 2/73 13 6.40 1*5 1-2 7/17/73 '43 7.23 4*9 3.9 8/ 1/73 13 5.66 1.9 1-5 7/ 2/73 19 6e64 1 s5 1-2 7/17/73 19 So45 5.2 4-1 8/ 1/73 19 5.91 2-1 1-6 7/ 3/ 7 ? I 7,a2 3.5 2.7 7/18/73 1 9oOO 5o8 4.6 8/ 2/73 1 6o58 2.7 2*1 7/ 3/73 7 8.43 3.6 2*8 7/16/73 7 7o38 3.9 3-1 8/ 2/73 7 6.08 3.0 2.3 7/ 3/73 13 7o74 3.0 2o3 7/18/73 13 8.05 2.4 lo9 S/ 2/73 13 6.24 2.1 1 - (/ 3/73 19 7,67 3*6 2o8 7/18/73 19 8*71 4*5 3-6 8/ 2/73 19 6o13 2 . 0 ', * -) 7/ 4/71 1 7,48 2o2 lo7 @/19/73 1 8.60 4.5 3.6 B/ 3/73 1 6.70 3.0 2 .3 7/ 4 /7 3 7 7olO 2,0 196 7/19/73 7 8,14 3.4 2o 7 8/ 3/73 7 7oI3 3.6 2.R 7/ 4/73 13 6,82 2.4 Ie9 7/19/73 13 8.29 4.2 3o3 Fi / 3/73 1 -3 7.40 3.7 2-9 7/ 4/73 1 1@ 7.21 2.5 2.,,) 7/19/73 19 6.61 2.4 1.9 8/ 3/73 19 6.65 2.7 2-1 7/ 5/73 1 7,11" 295 2oO 7/20/73 1 7o92 2.5 2 . ; 81 4/73 1 7.26 2.6 2.1 7/ 5 / 73 7 7.64 2o5 2*0 7/20/73 7 7o54 2o9 2-3 8/ 4/73 7 7 . 03 3o3 2.6 7/ 5/73 13 7o84 3.1 2o4 7/20/73 13 7,00 2.9 2o3 S/ 4/73 13 6.80 2-5 2-0 1 B/ 4/73 19 6.06 1.9 1-5 1/ 5/73 19 7.18 3#0 2.3 7/20/73 19 6.52 2.3 1-8 7/ 6/73 1 8.25 3 . C- 2 -3 7/21/73 1 6*98 2.6 2 - C 8/ 5/73 1 6,56 2*9 2.3 7/ 6 / 73 ? 6o79 2o4 1.9 7/21/73 7 5*72 2.0 1-6 8/ 5/73 7 7.40 3 * 5- 3 * 1 7 / 6/73 13 6o24 2oO 1 *6 7/21/73 13 7.39 2.5 1-9 8/ 5/73 13 7*60 3*6 2 . R 7/ 6/73 19 8o9G 3.8 3.0 7/21/73 19 6.66 2*2 1-7 8/ 5/73 19 8*03 3#6 2 # 8 7/ 7/73 1 7,93 390 2o3 7/22/73 1 6*56 2*1 1 a 5 S/ 6/73 1 7*70 3o7 2o9 7/ 7/73 7 7,31 4*2 3@4 7/22/73 7 6o46 2.1 1 m 6 8/ 6/73 7 7.96 4, 3' 3.8 7/ 7/73 13 8e66 4*7 3-8 7/22/73 13 8o37 2o5 1-9 B/ 6/73 13 9.10 5o6 4.3 7/ 7/73 19 7,61 4sO 3o2 7/22/73 19 8o74 2.2 1.7 8/ 6/73 19 8.16 5.4 4.2 7/ 8/73 1 7o79 3.9 391 7/23/73 1 8s83 2e5 1.9 8/ 7/73 1 8o63 5.2 4.1 7/ 8/73 7 7oIC 3o8 3oO 7/23/73 7 7.68 2o5 1 *9 8/ 7/73 7 8s50 5.2 4o 1 7/ 8/73 13 Bo4l 4.7 3.8 7/23/73 13 6*54 294 1-8 B/ 7/73 13 7.60 3o8 3 7/ 8/73 19 8*37 5o5 4.8 7/23/73 19 8*06 3oC 2.3 81 7/73 19 7*23 2*9 2 7/ 8/73 1 9 a 3 3 3*8 3-0 7/24/73 1 8.36 2oO 1.6 81 8/73 1 7s70 3.2 2.5 7/ 9/73 7 So85 5.0 493 7/24/73 7 7.33 2.4 1.9 8/ 8/73 7 7.46 2.6 2.0 7/ @) / -7 3 13 7 . '19 4.3 3-4 7/24/73 13 7*36 2o3 I o 8 8/ 8/73 1 ? 7*20 2o6 2 . Cl 7/ 9/73 i 9 8,64 3o6 2.8 7/24/73 19 8o5O 2oO 1 a6 8/ 8/73 19 7o66 2o9 2 o3 7/10/73 1 8,50 3.7 2o8 7/25/73 1 8,60 2ol 1.6 B/ 9/73 1 @oOO 3.2 2.5 7/10/73 7 6*88 2o4 1.9 7/25/73 7 8o7l 395 2-7 81 9/73 7 6.30 3.2 2.5 7/10/ 73 13 6.79 2 - Z) 1-6 7/25/73 13 8*41 3o5 2 s7 8/ 9/73 13 7a50 3e6 2.8 7/1C/73 19 6*89 3oO 2-4 7/25/73 19 7.02 3oO 2 o3 B/ 9/73 19 7*66 3*0 2.3 7 / 11 /73 1 6,49 3o3 2-6 7/26/73 1 6.11 2o2 1.7 8/10/73 1 8.13 3*8 3.0 7/11/73 7 7,55 5sO 4*0 7/26/73 7 5*93 2o8 2.2 8/10/73 7 7.90 3*8 2 e 9 7/11/73 13 7#50 4*8 a * 8 7/26/73 13 5.96 3*0 2-3 8/10/73 13 8.20 4*1 3.2 7/11/73 19 6*72 5*8 4*7 7/26/73 19 6o93 5.2 4 s 0 8/10/73 19 8.33 4.0 3 . 1 7/12/73 1 7 # 13 5.5 4-4 7/27/73 1 6.52 3.4 2.6 8/11/73 1 bo66 5.0 3.9 7/12/73 7 7,41 '; . 7 4.6 7/27/73 7 6.64 3*6 2 oS 8/11/73 7 7.93 2.8 2 .2 7/12/73 13 7,7@ 697 5 -0 7/27/73 13 6.31 2.8 2.2 8/11/73 13 8@56 3.6 2-8 7/12/73 19 8,03 5.3 4-2 7/27/73 19 5.60 1.9 1- 5 8/11/73 19 8.10 4.5 3 o 5 7/13/73 1 8,10 5.4 4.3 7/28/73 1 5o88 1,9 1 -5 8/12/73 1 8.06 4.8 3.7 7/ 13/73 7 7.56 5.5 4*6 7/29/73 7 6*14 2.3 1-8 8/12/73 7 7.63 3.7 2.9 7/13/73 13 7,81 6.0 4-8 7/28/73 13 6.05 2*0 196 8/12/73 13 7o96 3. 7 2.9 7/13/73 19 8.39 7* 1 5-7 7/28/73 19 5.72 2.0 1-6 8/12/73 19 7.56 3.6 2.8 7/14/73 1 3*26 7.3 5*8 7/29/73 1 6.2-3 3* 1 2*4 8/13/73 1 7.40 3.1 2.4 7/14/73 7 7.48 5*0 4.0 7/29/73 7 6.19 2.3 1 *8 8/13/73 7 7.76 3.5 2 . 7 7/14/73 13 7.59 5.0 4*0 7/29/73 13 6.99 3.0 2o3 8/13/73 13 6.23 4.6 3.6 7/14/73 19 7o54 5.2 4-2 7/29/73 19 5.68 1.9 1-5 8/13/73 19 8*30 4.1 3.2 7/15/73 1 7.04 496 3-7 7/30/73 1 5.24 2o2 1-7 8/14/73 1 8.80 4.0 3.2 7/15/73 7 8.02 6*2 4*9 7/30/73 7 6.57 2.3 1-8 8/14/73 7 7970 3.9 3.0 7/15/73 13 7.52 5.1 4 . 1 7/30/73 13 7.60 2.5 1-9 5/14/73 13 7.23 4.1 3.2 7/15/73 19 8.76 6.3 5 , 1 7/30/73 19 5.60 1 .8 1-4 8/14/73 19 7.23 3.0 2.3 72 NEARSHORE CURRENT DATA DATE HOUR TIDE AZI SPEED ON AL DATE HOUR TIDE AZI SPEED ON AL 7/ 7/73 14 4*50 203@13 lo20 -0s47 @ loll 7/25/73 14 3*60 13000 0090 Os20 -0*89 7/ 7/73 20 6*50 2*92 1.30 0s07 -1*34 7/25/73 20 8a7O 178.15 1*30 0*04 1*38 7/ 8/73 8 5,20 29,39 Oo2O 0*10 -Ool7 7/26/73 8 4*70 232908 Oe3O -0o29 0@23 7/ R/73 20 7.40 18*64 le8O Oo58 -1*71 7/26/73 20 8*80 181*39 1*50 -0*04 1459 7/ 9/73 8 5*20 96*17 0*40 0940 0*04 7/27/73 14 4e2O 212*74 Oo7O -Oo43 0066 7/ 9/73 20 8*10 124*16 0*90 0,79 0*54 7/27/,73 20 8910 177*03 1*10 0*06 loll 7/10/73 8 4.80 114.25 0.20 0*26 0*12 7/2B/73 8 2900 132#04 1*20 0*91 0.82 7/10/73 14 3#70 264*76 0*30 -0,39 Co04 7/28/73 14 5e30 172s02 1*00 0015 1 008 7/10/73 20 7s7O 170 91 0*70 Oo12 008 7/28/73 20 6@80 169*20 lo20 0*24 lo27 7/11/73 8 3*70 15 7: 2 4 0*50 0*22 Os54 7@29/73 8 0*70 177*41 2*10 0009 2o 10 7/11/73 20 7.10 163-64 0*60 0*24 0,83 7/29/73 14 6*50 205*30 1*10 -0e48 1001 71/12/73 8 2*60 179*04 0*10 0000 Os15 7/29/73 20 4*80 213s35 ls20 -0971 lo07 7/12/73 14 4*50 178olS 1900 0*03 1008 7/30/73 8 -0.70 188*00 1*40 -0944 1*22 7/12/73 20 6*50 187*10 1*60 -0@20 1*60 7/30/73 20 2s70 200*00 1930 -0*17 1 o32 7/13/73 8 1*80 126s16 0960 0956 0*41 7/31/73 20 le40 175o42 1*50 0912 1.53 t, 7/13/73 14 5.30 176e87 0*60 0*04 0680 B/ 1/73 8 -lo40 171a3l 1*30 0.20 lo29 '1/13/73 20 6.00 193s56 1*10 -Os27 1010 8/ 1/73 14 8*60 180s23 1-90 -0901 1095 -7/14/73 8 2,70 175o77 le20 0010 1 s29 8/ 1/73 20 Oo9O 167*19 2*00 Os45 1*97 7/14/73 14 5*60 179*74 1*00 0000 1*04 B/ 2/73 7 0.50 159658 lo40 Os52 1 *38 7/14/73 20 5o4O 194*42 1*30 -0*34 1932 8/ 2/73 12 5o5O 185o08 1*90 -0.18 1098 7/15/73 14 6.70 164olO 1*10 0*33 lol4 8/ 2/73 20 1180 176a04 1*90 0913 1.89 7/15/73 20 498U 170*86 0*60 0011 0*68 8/ 3/73 8 1,00 171o89 2*20 0.31 2.17 7/16/73 14 7.40 226.06 1.10 [email protected] 0080 B/ 3/73 14 7*70 181m66 lo20 -0v04 1120 1/16/73 20 4*00 138*57 0*80 0954 0*62 8/ 3/73 20 2,30 167*13 0*80 0018 0 e @0 7/17/73 8 -0,30 194*76 0990 -0s25 0*96 B/ 4/73 8 2,40 162*11 1.60 0050 1055 7 / J. 7/113 14 7*70 155*74 lo60 0*66 1*46 8/ 4/73 20 4,00 211462 0*60 -0*36 0056 7/17/73 2 0 3*10 157*57 le40 0954 1-32 B/ 5/73 8 3980 164*00 1*20 0.35 lo23 7/18/73 7 0o20 174*45 lelO 0*12 1*19 8/ 5/73 14 5,60 170*74 0*90 0*16 0*96 '1/ 18 /73 14 7*70 164o22 1,80 Oe49 1974 B/ 5/73 20 5o5O 200*97 0690 -0*33 Oo86 7/18/73 20 2s80 218*67 0940 -0*34 0*38 8/ 6/73 8 5,00 191*28 1*60 -Oo3l 1457 7/19/73 8 0*20 214s28 0*90 -0s56 0*82 8/ 6/73 20 6*70 139o28 0s40 0*2B 0433 7/19/73 20 2,70 45*10 0*90 0*70. -0*69 8/ 7/73 8 5*60 213*52 000 -0*43 0.64 7/20/73 8 1*00 9E901 0*40 Oo48 0-07 8/ 7/73 20 7,60 17B*51 0970 OoO2 0974 7/20/73 20 3*10 l9o27 ls0O 0*34 -0*98 B/ 8/73 6 5o6O 188a84 loOO -0*15 0099 7/21/73 8 2*10 6*96 0*50 0*06 -0*53 B/ 8/73 14 4*50 170*22 lo3O Ov22 1*28 7/21/73 14 6*40 352954 0*80 -Ooll -0s87 8/ 8/73 20 8oOO 203*48 1*20 -0*51 1018 7/21/73 20 4s00 0964 0*80 0o0l -0o88 8/ 9/73 8 5.00 173*37 1*40 0917 1.46 '712 2 /73 8 3920 342o6l Os60 -Ool8 -0*57 8/ 9/73 14 4*50 161*84 2.10 Oo66 2*00 7/22/73 14 5980 301912 0*00 -0oO8 -0*05 8/ 9/73 20 7s90 194.41 lo60 -0*41 1058 7/22/73 20 5.30 32*99 0*20 0*12 -Ool8 8/10/73 8 4.20 168.85 2.10 0942 2 9 13 7/23/73 9 4s5O 8*30 lolO 0*17 -1*18 8/10/73 14 4*70 169*24 3olO 0#59 3oO9 7/23/73 20 6*40 134el6 lelO 0s62 0*79 8/10/73 20 7,30 183906 lo40 -0*08 lo48 7/24/73 B 5.20 30*46 0*30 0*20 -0*33 8/11/73 8 3olO 171944 2o5O 0*38 2o55 7/24/73 20 7o7O 191e40 0*70 -0*15 0*77 8/11/73 14 5olO 166930 3*00 0*72 2e95 7/25/73 8 5,30 347e92 0*70 -0*15 -0969 8/11/73 20 6*40 177,09 2*20 0611 2 *23 73 APPENDIX II. FOURIER COMPONENTS Tables of the first 22 Fourier components or harmonics based on 1080 observations for weather data, 180 observations for wave data and 84 observations for current data. For each Fourier component, the period is in hours, amplitude in units of the observed data, phase in degrees and hours. Eighteen components were computed for the current observations which covered 36 days. 74 VARIABLE - Barometric Pressure MEAN = 1018,341 MINIMUN = 1013.100 MAXIMIN 102692JO TOTAL SUM OF SQUARES 9008.51 PHASE FERCENTAGE CCMPONENT PERICD AMPLITUDE PHASE IN HOURS SUM OF SQUARES H 1 10806000 $198 354*541 1063#624 o277 H 2 540e000 1*332 li*986 17*979 10*535 H 3 360,OOC 1*171 2500181 250*181 8*737 H 4 270e000 19843 113*938 85o453 IS9652 H 5 216*000 *979 308,694 .1859217 6o2'46 H 6 180*000 1*745 341*647 1709823 186371 H 7 154*286 e714 222o387 95.309 3*366 H 8 1350000 *286 313*995 117s746 .5'43 H 9 120s000 ie27'4 133o478 44e493 9a 575 H10 1089000 *377 208e427 62*528 0991 Hii 98ei82 *950 I70e5II 46eS03 59-419 H12 900000 *693 167,773 41*943 2o?32 H13 83*077 *721 126,815 29,265 2*817 H14 77ei43 9163 242*564 51*978 .248 H15 72*OOC *269 2119841' 42*3E8 o480 H16 67*500 *053 264.657 49*623 064 H,17 63,529 *112 57o685 10018C on Hid 60,00C o219 68*781 119463 .252 Hi9 56*542 0330 349*029 559ilO .72EE H20 54900C *137 296.531 449480 .183 H21 51,429 9477 213*047 30*435 10445 H22 490091 9449 130*978 179861 19123 PERCENT SUM OF SQUARES ACCOUNTED FCR OY CLHMLLATIVE CURV7- 93.19 VARIABLE - Air Temperature MEA4 57.381 MINIMUN 46*000 MAXIMIN 72e0J0 TOTAL SUM OF SQUARES 25442959 PHASE PERCENTAGE C OMPONE NT PERIOD AMPLITUDE PHASE IN HOURS SUM OF SQUARES H 1 1080,000 0718 342*019 1026*058 io345 H 2 540e000 *466 15* 8.39 2 @.075 9 -554 H 3 360*000 1*540 268*681 268*681 5.713 H 4 270s000 *752 - 1'3* $85 10* 1,89 i.2ST H 5 216*000 .916 137*987 829792 10725 H 6 L800000 *539 265*403 029702 .9.14 H 7 154*286 *370 l8o749 8.035. *400 H 8 1350000 *572 23,7sM 89*007 1*016 H 9 120e000 *337 182,038 69o679 9411 Hio 108*000 e460 182*534, 54o760 e615 Hil 98si$2 .728 li3.i35 30,882 *993 H12 900000 *325 27j5*640 68,0910 e529 H13 83*077 *529 i8l,-420 41*866 0746 HL4 77*143 0149 196*626 42,134 *215 H15 72e000 e366 41 Z39 18. 248 .211 ... Ht6 679500 *282 237,727 44*574 *420 H17 63 529 *343 14.i7b 28ua .395 HIS 60:0.00 *241 47..- -91-5 8 T...-"3 021-0 H19 56*842 *313 50 294 70925 *2?5 H20 5490 -00 *405 66:641 9 996 348 - - - .4k.- -5. .-1 - I I HZI 51@429 .17i 141."7 21.637 *ISO H22 49*091 0118 3570690 48o?76 .133 PERCENT SUM OF SQUARES ACCOUNTED FOR BY CUMMULATIVE CURVE 15.48 75 VARIABLE - Wind Speed MEtN = 7. S69 MINIMUN 0 PAXIMIN 030 TCTAL SUM OF SQUARES 40753o87 PHASE FER'@ENTAGE CCMPJNENT PERIOC AMPLITLDE PHASE IN HOURS SUM OF SOLARES I H 1 1080*00u 10603 227*127 681*382 3*513 H 2 5409000 .392C2 298,344 447.516 13.rc?3 H 3 3600000 3*172 145*42C 145.420 136542 H + 270.OOC 2*417 95*546 71.660 7.8t4 H 5 2169006 *214 283*237 169*942 .156 H 6 1600000 la246 242o793 121#396 2*133 H 7 15492BE 1,502 122,137 52*345 3*C93 H 3 1359000 429 22,921 8.595 0341 H 9 1209000 .826 41*736 13*912 oS36 H19 108*000 a362 41oi55 129347 92SO H11 98*182 *672 92.704 25e283 sE?4 H12 90,000 10092 124*509 319127 io628 H13 83*077 .960 40.177 9,272 1.240 H14 779143 *313 213e949 45,84r: 0246 H15 72*03C 502 142*459 28,492 e4?3 HlE 67.50C i.5L,8 ill.016 20*816 2.9-0 H17 63*529 .531 236*444 41,725 *5?0 H13 60m000 *434 325e50 54*303 .333 H19 56*842 726 184,122 29*072 *791 H20 54eCOC o422 io.689 1*603 9323 H21 51.429 *487 99,734 14,248 *370 H22 499091 .089 164*870 22.482 .0ig PER.'ENT SUM OF SCLARES ACCOUNTED FOR BY CUMMULATIVE CURVI 52.93 VARIABLE - Onshore Wind MEAN 1.255 MINIMUN -6.973 MAXIMIN 90939 TOTAL SUM OF SQUARES 5014e43 PHASE FER,ENTAGE COMPONENT PERIOD AMPLITUDE PHASE IN HOURS SUM OF SQUARES H I 1080000c *091 13*005 39.015 .130 H 2 54G.000 *145 220940L 3309600 *326 H 3 360*GOQ 9418 58.251 58.251 1.935 H 4 270eOUG *406 260e488 195*366 10 aie H 5 216,000 0052 258.076 154.846 0128 H 6 180*000 v285 202,355 101*177 .9ii H 7 i54*28E *184 67*844 29s076 s412 H a 135*000 917b 239el67 89*687 *439 H 9 12J.030 *152 227e433 75o8ll 4330 H13 1060000 el7l 229*590 68*877 *414 Hil 980182 .131 62*369 1700io .292 H12 90.00E, e130 5.552 1*388 *236 H13 839077 *141 330*848 76*349 *314 H14 77.143 .102 219*657 47*069 0213 Hi5 72*000 a273 43*373 81675 a 898 Hie 679500 s143 353@544 66*289 o2'-Ig H17 63*529 6li9 197*398 34*835 *274 His 60*030 iU7 207.947 34*E58 1234 H19 56*842 0103 173*905 27*459 .2t8 H20 54*000 6160 56.001 9*400 o3iS H21 51.429 0086 332.073 479439 0176 H22 49e0gl 9173 246o989 339680 e 451 PERCENT SUM OF SQUARES ACCOUNTED FOR BY CUMMULATIVE CURV-: = 8.SE 76 VARIABLE Alongshore Wind MEAN 5.858 MINIMUN -11*276 HAXIMIN 28*9?8 TCTAL SUM OF SQUARtt 6009.87 PHASE PERCENTAGE CCMPONENT PERIOD AMPLITUDE PHASE IN HOURS SUM OF SQUARES H 1 10800000 3*097 211*803 635,408 7*934 H 2 540e040 4*224 294*293 441*439 14*593 H 3 360*000 4m514 149ei85 1499185 16e819 H 4 270.000 30806 73*514 55*136 lieS22 H 5 216*000 10117 318e968 1910381 1,062 H 6 180*000 *997 267*596 1330798 ,834 H 7 1549286 o784 1'18.006 50*574 a 5@3 0- H 8 i35.00b .313 10 38*030*9- ..113 H 9 120*000 1*469 65:885 21*962 loa13 H13 108*000 1e125 82.450 24.735 1*057 H11 [email protected] 1.693 83li35 22*673 20326 H12 90*000 19523 112,,589 28ei47 16 839 H13 839077 1*027 .64*977 14.995 *798 Hi4 @7.143 t8g i0.1@t4 35.667 . .1 4' @' H15 72*00C *940 160*195 329039 o747 H16 67*500 10918 120*483 22*591 2*336 H17 63.529 *920 257*509 45,443 *836 Hi8 60eOOO *822 262,549 43*758 *638 M19 569842 ie026 199,294 31*467 *833 H _54- 6 V6. 146 ".. k5k -6t _t--__. 6 H21 51:429 :732 104:718 14:960 e422 H22 49*091 *285 359*411 49e011 .114 PERCENT SUM OF SQUARES ACCOUNTED FOR BY CUMMULATIVE CURV'_- 61.S7 VARIABLE -,Significant Wave Height .41-AN 2.797 MINIMUN 1.200 MAXIMIN 69530 TOTAL SUM UF SQUARES 220e3l PHASE PER4'ENTAGE 0 C M RO NE NT PERIOD, .- __A,MPLITUD.E ..-.....-PHASE _IN. HOURS __.__S.U.M__.0.F. S-Q.UAR.ES. 4-6-3-5, 2."-6-12 H 2 540*@00 0830 218*984 328*476 29el)9 H 3 36 0 a 0 0,0- .0459.. .14,0@*_707 140*7k7 8.,03.9 h 4 27J*000 0317 352*992 2649744 4*ji7 H 5 216*000, 354..- 1,61-o 8 0 C 9 7 4 e 9 15_ H 6 180000C *213 120*866 60e433 lo527 H 8 1359U00 *051 338e504 126*939 *1142 __H_ @9___ 12 23.9 Hia 1086GOG 0102 228*284 68,485 *5052 Hli.. e_311. __33,518 H12 900000 0293 licliil 27o528 390is . I 1 2 .7,17 Hi4 77.143 .038 181*129 38*813 90io H.15_ . ... .. _-1ol-4 $.--..,._., ..I--- - @ - ------ H16 67*500 ei34 109*709 M570 *53.7 _H17--, _-e.219- _12,4& -_ -------------- H18 60*000 *123 24,458 4*076 o523 H20 54*000 oW 162,300 24.345 94L2 H Z1, e-4,2-9 ---------- -- - H22 49*091 e134 42o563 5e804 *571 PERCENT SUM OF SQUARES ACCOUNTED FOR BY CUMMULATIVE CURVE 84.75 --------- -- 77 . . ...... .... . ------- VARIABLE Breaker Height MEAN 3.556 MINIMUN 1.500 MAXIMIN 8.210 TOTAL SUM OF SQUARES 342,72 PHASE PMENTAGE C OMPON--: NT PERIOD AMPLITUDE PHASE IN HOURS SUM OF SQUARES H I 108-0m,-00,C 889 129427 -3-79202 ..21*.439 H 2 540.JOC 10027 WsS79 326.369 289640 H 3 3600000 0588 l41siGl 141ei6l 8o523 H 4 2709000 0395 354*274 265.705 4.147 H 5 21boOOL *431 162-590 97*554 4e636 H 6 1800000 *262 lige8i5 59s907 1*459 H. 7-. 15-4,s 286 .142 i5a.085 64*322 *426 H 8 i35*OUL s049 335.883 125.956 soi3 H 9 1200000 9314 348o895 116,298 2s676 HIO 1@84uao 0125 229.449 68.835 *533 HII 98*182 *396 120*175 32,775 39611 H12 904000 s370 lil*735 27*934 3,034 H13 83* D77 91b2 26 3 4, b 9,2 b0o852 *923 H14 77,143 a057 178,307 38*209 s 084 H15 72960C, 0101 26#103 5e221 02jo H16 67.506 L83 106.109 19,896 s622 H17 63.529 *273 125-252 220103 i*63J H13 boeuov a143 23s426 3*904 s 4i4 .H-1@0_ " *,. 0-4 Z it 0 3.6 2 27.9@ %3-7. -j!@o QL3.- H20 54.000 4130 153,203 22.980 *338 H21 51.429 *250 5loS14 79402 11331 H22 [email protected] s164 43e472 5.928 s537 PERGcNT SUM OF SQUARES ACCOUNTED FOR BY CUMNULATIVE CURVZ7 64.02 VARIABLE Wave Period ,lEAN 7*382 MINIMUN 5.240 MAXI4IN 9*010 TOTAL SUM OF SQUARES 143*21 PHASE PERCENTAGE COMPONENT PERIOD AMPLITUDL PHASE IN HOURS SUM OF SQUARES 10j8G-. 40_0 2 6.! _;L -.,, ___@at_LZ8 _._ __ H 2 540*03L *554 163-531 245e296 18*451 H 3 360*OOC. *236 258.034 258oO34 4*7J3 H 4 270.000 *096 6-289 49717 *527 H 5 216e00G *311 17,bo,430 10@69098 5*,97,2-. H G 18a.000 e210 84*596 42.298 1*693 H 7 154 ,ffi.2 ... ..... ZZ@k_t a 0 7 __96. 346 3,.,315 H 8 135#000 .188 lio386 4*270 2,029 H 9 120,300 *176 244*994. 8,t, 2. @ 77 t, H141 1@8*00c *G86 87si6c 26ei48 *G19 Hll ga*102 s206 101*025 2 7. *,[email protected] _I* -612 H12 90.000 s18O 124si88 31,047 1,273 H13 53.925 1017Z HI-+ 77oi43 si86 199*283 42s703 2,506 H15 7 2 o 0 0@6 i rb .4,. - 9-0 A, 6-4-2- -1 Hlb 67.500 .081 179e063 33s574 *439 M17 63*5,29 .0 I'L 2 ..,8299,6-9 HIS 60e000 o043 203s922 33*987 #218 _,.419., 27 .636 H26 54. OJC 0150 146*784 22*018 0933 H21 51.4.29 . 178 50 #-640-- H22 49.091 0035 95*298 l2o995 -8sl34 PERGEENT SUM OF SQUARES ACCOUNTED FOR OY CUMMULATIVE CURVZ 67.61 78 VARIABLE - Wave Steepness MEAN .04E 01hIMUN .0@O PAXIMIN jJ6 YCT4-L OV PH .. AS E PERCENTAGE CCMPONENT PERIOD AMPLITUDE PFASE IN HCURS SUM OF SQLARES H i i080600c 60io 9*696 29eO87 l8o418 -k 28*532 540*00C s012 222* H 3 360000c 0008 i3goi27 i3goi27 109 838 H 4 270.000 .005 355402 5 266o269 4.073 H 5 216*000 0005 1599188 959513 4o138 H b 180,000 *003 123.162 61*5 8.i i.2ig H 7 i54*28E 9002 135,567 580100 530 . . . .......... H 8 .135*110 *036 H 9 120*000 :004 355.659 118*553 3o258 H13 108600c .002 226.826 66.64s -'.637 Hli 98*182 oUG5 121o746 339203 3*416 H12 90000C .004 iil*194 27.796 j 156 H13 83.077 *002 270o000 629308 :771 H14 77 s143 -00 00 0 Hir5- 72900V 0001 12o293 2e459 *198 Hib 67.500 9002 960000 16.87-5 -7i7 H17 63a529 *003 125*571 22*160 1:795 H18 606000 *002 24*102 4,017 El@ H19 56,842 -04001 0 G soio 54.000 152*386 -2 "a -8 5-8 H20 000i a H21 51.429 *003 52.940 7o563 Is 336 H22 49.091 s002 .42.994 5*863 a.11. 627 PERCENT SUM OF SQUARES ACCOUNTED FOR BY CUMMULATIVE CUR'VE 630'05 VARIABLE -"ve Energy MEAN 3556o727 MINIMUN .377.057 MAXIMIN 19203.li4 TOTAL SUM OF SQUARES =030684982.4* PHASE PERCENTAGE C CM.FO NE @NT PERIOD AMPLITUDE, ... PHASE IN HOURS SUM OF SQUARES H 1 1580*000 2117*103 4s192 12 8 2 1. H 2 540,000 2380o052 214*389 321*583 25*437 H 3 360oOOO 1218*334 130a9161 130a936 6s 30 H 4 270.000 1029.969 342o265 256.699 4*791 H 5. 2 1.6le 01 0 0. 10 1-2 s 4@6 81 1..7619-20119. 4,524 H 6 1800000 805*794 1050950 52*975 2,658 H 7 154*286 23Oo994 222*915 95*535 ----- - -1- -- I - - - I-,-- --- l-.. -.. - 9 281 H 135s000 149e782 292*609 109*728 *139 H 9 12" 0s00C 7499 08,0 340s.8.3-3- 2o557 Hic 108sooO 304o927 250.252 75.076 *494 H1.1 918.9182 1022e865 120.509 32.866 4o387 H12 90.000 690*388 94o212 23*553 1.sV H0 83,077 6009229 255*837 59*039 is 752 H14 77.143 446.889 191*272 40*987 -�i a-, H15 72*000 4019325 34o4O2 6s880 o649 H16 67o5OO 83*605 171o404 32*138 027 H.A.7 6 3-s-15-21.91 .6-6-lo- 8.9-8. 13-29 3 3 0 2 3 10,80-3. H18 60,000 322o318 299582 4o930 .415 Hig 56o842 8 tL8 4___g7 61 2 0856 H20 54*000 370*626 1699005 25*351 9589 Z .51*429 567*954 49*724 7o103 10336 H22 49.091 2 7 7 *- 4- 6 _3 ' ' 24-6379 '3o-U4 .369 PERCENT SUM OF tbtfARES ACCOUkttD FC0 By CUMMUILAT14t cukVE- 82*02 79 VARIABLE L17TCRAL CURRENT MEAN l.147 MINIMUN C90 MAXIMIN 30140 TCTAL SUM OF SQUARES 27.55 PHASE PERCENTAGE G CMPONE NT PERIOC AMPLITUDE PHASE IN HOURS SUM OF SQUARES H I 864,OJC 0366 07m862 330e870 l3seEl H 2 432.00C o046 220*301 2649361 0538 H, 3 288000C o400 120m754 960603 l6s617 H 4 216.00C 1362 124.634 74,780 99332 p 5 172m800 .371 158*731 760191 49625 H 6 144.GDC. *212 178*507 71*403 -00869 H 7 123.429 9112 42*9E2 14*730 -29 243 e H 3 i08.00c .167 177*597 53o279 lo736 H 9 960900 *314 2199098 58*426 *117 Hil 860400 o163 42.376 10,170 -6*ot8 .Hll 789545 *092 110.67C 24ol46 -29 370 H12 72.OOC e123 i87o732 37.546 1*934 H13 66.462 *123 132*681 24*495 -0*216 H14 6lo7i4 .058 1830611 31*476 -0.050 H15 57.60[ #089 204s001 32*640 -1.237 H16 54.GOC- o079 303*981 45*597 0030 H17 50.823 *143 131o836 18*612 -2*837 H18 48*000 o067 146901C 19*468 -29239 PERCENT SUM OF SQUARES ACCOUNTED FOR BY CUMMULATIVE CURY.: = 34.78 VARIABLE CNSHORE LITTCRAL COMPONENT MEAN .078 MINIMUN -0.830 MAXIMIN 0910 TCTAL SUM OF SQUARES llo49 PHASE PERCENTAGE CCMPONENT PERIOD AMPLITUDE PHASE IN HOURS SUM OF SQUARES H 1 864.000 *058 42o610 102,264 930 H 2 432oOOC o034 131*402 1579683 e21E H 3 288*00C 0093 30*BE9 2 4* E95 3o433 H 4 216*00C 0066 71e975 43s185 1*422 H 5 02.800 0079 195*104 93*650 iog'22 H 6 144,000 0066 232*085 92*834 10463 H 7 123.429 0029 21*352 7,321 o 262 H a 1080000 .117 204'.347 619304 4*5?3 H 9 969000 $093 288*812 779017 3o739 Hll,' 86.400 0118 160*3iC 389474 5s0?8 Hil 78*545 9054 246e823 53,852 1*250 H12 72*00C s062 245*165 49,033 1.6?9 H13 @66.452 130 1409031 259852 50843 H14 61*714 *081 333*037 57,092 *0347 H15 @i?0600 o074 158o265 25,322 lo536 H16 54,000 *067 i8l.806 27.284 2o452 H17 50*823 *114 47e493 6*705 60 goo H18 48.000 *036 251*403 33e520 1319 PERCENT SUM OF SQUARES ACCOUNTED FCR -8'V t(JAM-LILATIVE CURVE. 43o3l 80 V AR I AOL E ALCNGSHORE LITTORALICOMPONENT MEAN .815 MINIMUN -1.710 MAXI14IN 30 090 TOTAL SUM OF SQUARES 72930 PHASE PERCENTAGE CCMPONENT PERIOC, AMPLITUOE PHASE IN HOURS SUM OF SQUARES H 1 864*000 *622 i38e693 332*863 18*610 H 2 432*000 9361 2869340 343o6os 11*964 H 3 2889006 9579 i52o374 121*899 15*544 H 4 216,000 9369 126s458 75o875 39774 H 5 172o806 o5li 177e556 85o227 l0e452 H 6 144*00C s387 VDe778 68*311 4*734 H 7 123*429 li38 63.489 21o768 -00638 H 8 106.00c *346 180.,935 54o280 5*253 H 9 96o000 o256 189o282 50*475 -09022 H10 86,400 *130 64*208 150410 -loGS5 Hii 78*545 o179 101*757 229202 -0.522 H12 72o900 0171 174*456 349891 0842 H13 66*462 0181 108o466 20,024 0631 H14 61*71A o094 15M24 26*661 -0.212 H15 570rooo o046 281.525 45oC44 4211 Hi6 54oCOL, 0013 152*927 220939 032 H17 5Oo823 o074 50s984 70198 :Z10 H15 46#00C 0178 163,558 21*80'6 -10335 PERCENT SUM OF SG(jARES ACCOUNTEO FOR BY CUMMLL4TIVC CURVE 68,92 Office of Naval Research Chief of-Naval Operations Geography Programs OP098T Code 462 Department of the Navy Washington, D.C. 22217 Washington, D.C. 20350 Defense Documentation Center Commanding General Cameron Station Marine Corps Development and Alexandria, Virginia 22314 Educational Command Quantico, Virginia 22134 Director, Naval Research Laboratory Attention Technical Information Officer Dr. A.L. 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Inman Commandant Scripps Institute of Oceanography U.S. Coast Guard La Jolla, California 92037 Attention GECV/61 Washington, D.C. 20591 Division of Land Research Commonwealth Scientific and Industrial Dr. Carl 0. Sauer Research Organization Department of Geography P.O. Box 109 University of California Canberra City, A.C.T., Australia Berkeley, California 94720 Library 'Assistant Director for Research and "erican Geographical Society Development Broadway at 156th Street National Ocean Survey New York, New York 10032 6001 Executive Boulevard Rockville, Maryland 20852 Dr. William W. Wood Department of Geosciences Dr. Donn S. 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Carlson University of Missouri Department of Electrical Engineering Commanding officer Rolla, Missouri 65401 U.S. Army Engineering Topographic Laboratory - Atten# ETL-ST Library Fort Belvoir, Virginia 22060 Faculty of Law Dalhousie University Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada 84 Commander, Amphibious Force The Library U.S. Pacific Fleet Royal Geographical Society Force Meteorologist Kensington Grove Comphibpac Code 25 5 London, S, W. 1 San Diego, California 92155 England Dr. Lester A. Gerhardi Coastal Studies Institute Renasselaer Polytechnic Institute Louisiana State University Troy, New York 12181 Baton Rouge Louisiana 70803 Dr. Robert Vincent Dr. Warren C. Thompson Environmental Research Institute Dept. of Meteorology & Oceanography P.O. Box 618 U. S. Naval Postgraduqt-e School Ann Arbor, Michigan 48107 Monterey, California 93940 Dr. Dale F. Leipper Dr. Horace G. Richards Department of Oceanography Dept. of Geology and Paleontology Naval Postgraduate School Academy of Natural Sciences Monterey, California 93940 19th Street and Parkway Philadelphia, Pennsylvania 19103 Establissement Principal Du Service Commanding Officer Hydrographique Et Naval Coastal Systems Laboratory Oceanographique De Panama City, Florida 32401 La Marine 29 283 Brest - Cedex Office of Naval Research Scientific Liaison Officer Unit of Coastal Sedimentation Scripps Institution of Oceanography Beadom Road, Taunton La Jolla, California 92038 Somerset, England Commanding Officer The Library Naval Air Development Center Department of Geography Warminster, Johnsville University of Cambridge Pennsylvania 18974 Downing Place Cambridge, England 85 Unclassified Security Classification DOCUMENT CONTROL DATA - R & D (security classification of title, body of abstract and indexing annotation n7usf be entered when the overall report is classified) I ORIGINATING ACTIVITY (Corporate author) Za. REPORT SECURITY CLASSIFICATION Williams College Unclassified Williamstown, Massachusetts 2b. GROUP 3. REPORT TITLE Beach Processes on the Oregon Coast, July, 1973 4. DESCRIPTIVE NOTES (Type olreporf and inclusive dates) Technical.Report No. 12 5. AU THOR(Sl (First name, middle initial, last name) William T. Fox Richard A. Davis, Jr. 6. REPORT DATE 7a. TOTAL NO. OF PAGES 17b. NO. OF REFS August 30, 1974 85 28 8a. CONTRACT OR GRANT NO. 9a. ORIGINATOR'S REPORT NUMBER(S) N00014-69-C-0151 WC-12 b. PROJECT NO. NR 388-092 C. 9b. OTHER REPORT NO(S) (Any other numbers that may be assigned this report) d. 10. DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT Approved for public release; distribution unlimited. 11. SUPPLEMENTARY NOTES 12. SPONSORING MILITARY ACTIVITY Geography Programs - Code 462 Office of Naval Research Arlington, Virginia 22217 13. ABSTRACT During July and August, 1973, a 45-day time-series study was undertaken on the central Oregon coast to relate weather and wave conditions to beach erosion and sand bar migration. The summer weather pattern was dominated by the East-Pacific subtropical high which 'produced winds andwaves from the northwest and extended periods of upwel-ling a 'nd coastal fog * When low pressure systems moved through, wind and waves shifted to the southwest. Waves were 1 to 3 meters high with periods of S to 9 seconds. Rip currents and southward flowing longshore currents reached 90 centimeters/second in the surf zone. Tide range was 2 to 4 meters. Three beaches were mapped at low tide to show changes in beach and bar mor- phology through time. At South Beach, Oregon two sets of bars with intervening rip channels advanced shoreward at 1 to 5 meters/day and southward at 10 to 15 meters/day'. At Beverly Beach, Oregon, a basalt ridge 700 meters. offshore resulted in wave diffraction and sand deposition in the central portion of the beach. A rip channel at the south end of the beach moved 300 meters to the south. At Gleneden Beach, cusps 40 meters long were cut into the steep foreshore. A rhythmic topo- graphy with bars and rip channels existed in the nearshore. Sand bars advanced across the rip channels at 5 meters/day and welded onto the base of the foreshore. FORM (PAGE 1) DD, NOV 1473 Unclassified S/N 0101-807-6801 SeCUrity Classification Unclassified Security Classification 14. KEY WOROS LINK A LINK B LI K C ROLEJ WT ROLE I WT J. ROL E I WT Fourier Analysis Oregon Coast Weather data Wave data Longshore currents Rip currents Sand bars Beach erosion Beach cusps FORM (BACK) DD I NOV .1473 Unclassified (PAGE 2) Security Classification COST At CEKTER V 3 666 0 @8 (001 0746