[From the U.S. Government Printing Office, www.gpo.gov]







              NATIONAL COASTAL GEOLOGY PROGRAM


                           A Plan of Geologic Research on
                 Coastal Erosion, Coastal Wetlands, Polluted Sediments,

                          and Coastal Hard-Mineral Resources




























                                      COASTAL ZONE

                                   INFORMATION CENTER





                               Department of the interior
         QE39
           G46                  U.S. Geological Survey
          1990


                                                               no







                              National Coastal Geology Program
                                                 Executive Summary


                  issues: More than 50 percent of the population of the United States live within 50
                  miles of one of the Nation's oceans or Great Lakes. These coastal areas are
                  presently being stressed by both human activities and natural processes.
                  ï¿½    All of the 30 coastal states and the Island territories are experiencing problems
                       related to coastal erosion.

                  o    Over the past 200 years, more than 50 percent of our wetlands have been lost
                       due to a combination of natural and man-made causes.

                  ï¿½    Nationwide, approximately one-third of the shellfish beds are closed or restricted
                       because of polluted sediments.

                  ï¿½    Onshore sources for hard-mineral resources, such as sand and gravel used for
                       construction purposes, are becoming increasingly difficult to find. New sources
                       are being sought in coastal waters.
                  Stresses on our coasts will likely increase in the future with expanding population,
                  additional development, and anticipated sea-level changes caused by climate change
                  and other factors.

                  Developing effective solutions to these coastal problems requires a thorough
                  understanding of coastal geology, I.e. coastal sediments and landforms, how the
                  landforms evolved, and the processes responsible for coastal changes. The U.S.
                  Geological Survey (USGS), as the Nation's principal earth science agency, conducts
                  research on coastal geology. A National Coastal Geology Program would increase
                  our understandigg of coastal problems, with the emphasis on improving predictive
                  capabilities required to properly manage and utilize the Nation's coasts.
                  Strategy: In the FY 1990 Department of the Interior appropriations bill, the U.S.
                  Congress directed the USGS to prepare a research plan to address coastal issues
                  nationwide. In preparing the Plan, information on research needs and data gaps was
                  gathered from coastal states, island territories, Federal agencies, and university
                  researchers. The Plan outlines a broad-based research Program composed of four
                  Subprograms: Coastal Erosion, Coastal Wetlands, Polluted Sediments, and Coastal
                  Hard-Mineral Resources. Similar to coastal studies currently underway, the National
                  Program would be conducted in close cooperation with states, universities, and
                  Federal agencies.
                  Research:      The overall objective of the proposed research is to improve our
                  predictive capabilities by better understanding physical processes and the geologic
                  framework within which the processes operate.          Many of these processes are
                  unknown or poorly understood. With increased understanding, we would be able to
                  predict more accurately future coastal erosion, the fate of wetlands, where polluted
                  sediments might accumulate, and the location of economically valuable hard minerals.
                  An important part of the research would be assessing the impacts of man on the
                  coastal environment.





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              Cn    us Department of Commerce
              C)    KOAA Coastal Services Center Library
              CQ    2234 South Hobson Avenue
              >_    Charleston, SC 29405-2413









                 We would conduct two complementary types of research:
                 0    Fundamental studies focusing on critical processes, which are relevant to most
                      coastal regions and can be applied nationally, and
                 o    Regionall studies to Improve understanding of        natural and man-induced
                      processes and geologic evolution of the coast within specific regions. A series
                      of phased stuales would be undertaken in each region of the country (see
                      Summary Schedule).
                 Applications/Products: The research would provide a number of well defined
                 g
                   roducts ranging from Geographic Information Systems, which are computer map
                   isplays showing overlays of data useful for management purposes, to regional
                 assessments which would use understanding of the Interrelated processes of coastal
                 systems to predict natural and man-induced processes. These products would be
                 used by coastal managers, engineers, and other research scientists to structure
                 decisions and future work plans regarding protection and preservation of the coastal
                 environment.    An integral part of the Program would be regular meetings and
                 workshops between the USGS and other Federal agencies and the affected states in
                 order to define and monitor the national scope of coastal problems. These activities
                 would facilitate information exchange and maximize coordination to insure that
                 studies underway by Federal and state agencies complement each other. A series of
                 national assessments would be conducted including rates of erosion and locations of
                 hard-mineral resources.






                                      National Coastal Geology Program: Summary Schedule
                                                                                        Fiscal Year                                              Program Year
                                                                     86        87         88        89           90                911        2         3                         45   6            7

                                  Fundamental                                                                                      studies on critical processes
                                  Studies                        E                                          I
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                                  Transfer Results               E









                                                Table of Contents
                 INTRODUCTION      ..............................................              I

                 COASTAL ISSUES      ...........................................               I


                     Coastal Erosion   ..........................................              I


                     Coastal Wetlands  .........................................               2


                     Polluted Sediments  ........................................              3


                     Coastal Hard-Mineral Resources   ...............................          3


                 STRATEGY      ...............................................                 4


                 DESCRIPTION OF THE NATIONAL COASTAL GEOLOGY PROGRAM                ........   7


                     Coastal Erosion   .........................................              10


                     Coastal Wetlands  ........................................               16


                     Polluted Sediments   .......................................             18


                     Coastal Hard-Mineral Resources   ..............................          21


                 APPENDIXES    .............................................                 A25


                     A. Present Major Coastal Studies ............................           A26

                     B. National Coastal Geology Program Regions  ...................        A29








                 Cover: LANDSAT photograph of Chesapeake Bay and the Virginia barrier islands.
                          From the 28th International Geological Congress field trip guide "Flyover
                          Showing Geomorphology and Coastal Processes Along the Atlantic
                          Shoreline" by S. Jeffress Williams (1989).





                                                          iv









                                                    INTRODUCTION

                       More than 50 percent of the U.S. population currently live within 50 miles of an
                  ocean, Great Lake, or major estuary. According to forecasts, the concentration of
                  people along our coastlines will continue to increase Into the 21st century.            In
                  addition to residential and commercial buildings and facilities worth tens of billions of
                  dollars, the coasts and associated wetlands are natural resources of tremendous
                  value, with estimates In excess of $13 billion per year for commercial and
                  recreational fisheries alone.

                       Human activities and natural processes are stressing the coastal environment.
                  o    Each of the coastal states and island territories Is suffering problems related to
                       coastal erosion.

                  o    Deterioration of wetlands Is widespread and of great public concern.
                  o    Pollutants carried by rivers or runoff are discharged directly into coastal waters
                       and accumulate in the sediments on the sea floor, in some areas causing
                       damage to living resources and presenting a threat to public health.
                  o    Onshore sources for hard-mineral resources, such as sand and gravel used for
                       construction purposes, are becoming increasingly difficult to find. New sources
                       are being sought in coastal waters.
                  Coastal Issues will become even more important into the next century if sea level is
                  significantly influenced by climate change and other factors.
                       Lack of scientific understanding of coastal problems and inadequate historical
                  data bases are major impediments to addressing today's and future problems.
                  Coastal erosion, wetlands deterioration, polluted sediments, and the scarcity of hard-
                  mineral resources are problems which are dependent, to varying degrees, on coastal
                  geology.    Devising effective solutions requires thorough understanding of coastal
                  sediments and landforms, how the landforms evolved, and the multidisciplinary
                  processes responsible for coastal modifications.        Several Federal agencies have
                  program Initiatives relating to coastal and ocean topics, but none focus on the
                  T
                   eologic conditions and processes affecting coastal and ocean environments. The
                    S. Geological Survey (USGS), as the Nation's principal earth science agency,
                  conducts research on various aspects of coastal geology.           The National Coastal
                  Geology Program is intended to increase our understanding of coastal problems, with
                  the emphasis on improving predictive capabilities required for proper management
                  and rational utilization of our coasts.


                                                   COASTALISSUES

                  Coastal Erosion

                       Coastal erosion Is a serious national problem with long-term economic and
                  social consequences. Developed areas are threatened with potential loss of life and
                  billions of dollars in property damage as a result of storm impacts and long-term
                  erosion.   Of the 30 states borderigg an ocean or Great Lake, all have erosion
                  problems, and 26 presently are experiencing net loss of their shores. For example:
                  o    Louisiana's barrier islands are eroding In places up to 60 feet per year.
                       Historically, the islands have decreased in size, some by as much as 75 percent
                       in 100 years. While these islands are not extensively developed, they protect
                       valuable coastal wetlands from waves and currents of the open marine
                       environment.    Thus, as the barriers erode, coastal wetlands become more
                       exposed, accelerating their destruction.

                                                              1









                    o    In 1986, water levels In the Great Lakes reached their highest elevations In this
                         century.   The resulting shoreline erosion was severe and threatened highly
                         populated areas like Chicago. There Is geologic evidence that lake levels have
                         exceeded the 1986 levels in the recent geologic past (several hundred to several
                         thousand years).     This suggests that, In the future, lake levels might rise
                         significantly higher than present levels, greatly accelerating flooding and erosion.
                         Knowledge to predict future lake levels Is critically Important to state and Federal
                         agencies involved In coastal zone planning and erosion mitigation.
                    o    Florida Is bounded on the Atlantic and the Gulf of Mexico by low-lyinq barrier
                         islands, many of which are heavily developed and undergoing erosion and
                         periodic storm damage.        Much of the $2 billion-a-year tourist Industry is
                         dependent on the coastal resources, and Florida's population is projected to
                         Increase In the future. The State of Florida has plans to nourish Its beaches
                         with sand from both onshore and offshore sources at a cost of roughly $500
                         million over the next 10 years. However, known sources of sand are Insufficient
                         to satisfy the demand.
                         The National Academy of Sciences' and the Environmental Protection Agency
                    (EPA) have forecasted Increasing rates of sea-level rise during the next century.
                    Although the predicted rates are controversial, any rise in sea level will increase
                    erosion of our coasts. In addition, global warming is likely to result in additional
                    hazards for coastal communities by increasing the frequency and magnitude of
                    tropical storms and hurricanes.
                    Coastal Wetlands

                         When the first European settlers reached America over 200 years ago,
                    approximately 215 million acres of wetlands existed. Since that time, more than 50
                    percent have been lost due to draining and filling or coastal erosion and land loss;
                    fewer than 94 million acres of wetlands remain today. Wetlands continue to be lost,
                    due to natural and man-made causes, at a rate estimated to be 450,000 acres each
                    year.
                         Wetlands are important ecologically and serve numerous functions.
                    o    Salt marsh wetlands are the most productive ecosystems known to man.
                    o    Freshwater wetlands rank third in productivity behind saltwater marshes and
                         tropical rain forests.
                    o    Eighty percent of the Nation's coastal commercial and recreational fisheries are
                         dependent upon wetlands for spawning, hatchery-, and nursery activities.
                    a    Over one-third of the listed endangered species use wetlands for habitat as do
                         many other species of wildlife, waterfowl, and migratory birds.
                    o    Wetlands serve as natural water reservoirs and as ground-water recharge areas.
                    o    The presence of wetlands In a flood plain can reduce flood peaks by as much as
                         80 percent.
                    o    Wetlands serve as natural water filters, helping to cleanse water supplies.






                    National Research Council, 1987, Responding to Changes In See Level - Engineering Implications: National
                    Acaderny Pro", Washington, D.C., 148 p.








                       Excluding the Exclusive Economic Zone (EEZ), the Department of the Interior Is
                  custodian of 300 million acres of the Nation, with wetlands being an important part of
                  that responsibility. As part of the President's goal of "no net loss of wetlands,"
                  research on wetlands processes and functions is Important In any effort by Federal,
                  state, and local agencies and public and private organizations to preserve, protect,
                  and restore wetlands.

                  Polluted Sediments

                       Many of the water bodies surrounding our coastal urban areas have polluted
                  bottom sediments. Pollutants Include heavy metals, organic chemicals Including
                  g
                    etroleum residues, and excess organic productivity and sulfur accumulation. The
                    ischarge and accumulation of pollutants In coastal waters have created problems
                  associated with health and safety, commercial and biological resources, and
                  recreational activities.
                  o    In Boston Harbor, as a result of dischprge of sewage sludge and effluent, there
                       is a high occurrence of fin rot and liver cancer In winter flounder. Of 4,700
                       acres of shellfish beds, 60 percent are closed and the remainder restricted.
                  o    In Chesapeake Bay, once one of the most fertile spawning and seafood
                       producing areas in the Nation, spawning of striped bass has nearly collapsed,
                       and oyster production has fallen to one-seventh of pre-20th century values.
                  a    Commencement Bay (Tacoma, Washington) and New Bedford Harbor
                       (Massachusetts) have concentrations of heavy metals and contaminants so high
                       that they are at EPA Superfund site levels.
                  o    Nationwide, approximately one-third of the shellfish beds are closed or restricted
                       because of polluted sediments.

                       In addition to hazards to human health from contaminated seafood, the discharge
                  of domestic and Industrial wastes has impacted the abundance and diversity of
                  marine organisms at all levels of the food chain.'
                  Coastal Hard-Mineral Resources

                       As a result of the long-term geologic processes associated with coastal erosion
                  and sea-level rise of more than 350 feet over the past 20,000 years, nearshore
                  regions of the U.S. continental shelves offer high potential for certain hard-mineral
                  resources.    The materials of greatest value - sand, gravel, gold, platinum, and
                  titanium - occur in deposits having origins that are the result of the dynamic
                  processes at the coast. Sand and gravel mining currently Is the largest non-fuel
                  mineral industry in the United States.
                       With the U.S. population becoming increasingly concentrated along our coasts,
                  the need for new and replacement cultural and engineering structures is placing large
                  demands on sand and gravel resources. The offshore offers the only reasonable
                  domestic sources for these materials as available onshore sources dwindle due to
                  alternative land uses, Increasing transportation costs, and environmental concerns.
                  Coastal areas have potential as an important source for many strategic heavy
                  minerals, such as minerals containing chromite, for which the Nation presently is
                  dependent on potentially unreliable foreign sources.        Heavy minerals serve as
                  sources for a number of commodities which presently must be imported, such as
                  zirconium, platinum group minerals, and tin.






                                                             3








                                                      STRATEGY

                       Since 1986, the USGS has been directed and funded by Congress to conduct
                   four coastal geology studies. These studies are ongoing and Include. research on:
                   ï¿½   The processes causing the extreme rate of erosion of Louisiana's barrier Islands,
                   ï¿½   The multidisciplinary processes leading to the extraordinary rates of wetlands
                       loss on the Mississippi River Delta plain,
                   ï¿½   Geologic evidence for past elevated lake  levels and the processes causing shore
                       erosion In Lake Michigan,
                   ï¿½   The processes of polluted-sediment transport and erosion In Mississippi and
                       Alabama.

                   In addition, at the direction of Congress, the National Oceanic and Atmospheric
                   Administration (NOAA) and USGS nave developed a study plan for mapping
                   topography, bathymetry, and geology along the Great Lakes shorelines. The USGS Is
                   conducting cooperative Investigations wit the State of Massachusetts and EPA on
                   polluted sediment transport in Boston Harbor-Massachusetts Bay.          Each of the
                   studies examines natural and man-induced processes and will produce technical
                   results useful in devising plans to mitigate and manage coastal problems. (These
                   present and planned studies are discussed in more detail In Appendix A.)
                       Realizing that coastal processes are complex and extend across entire regions
                   without respect for state borders and that our present studies are localized, Congress
                   directed the USGS, In the FY 1990 Department of the Interior appropriations bill, to
                   design a plan for addressing coastal problems on a national scale and In an
                   organized and systematic fashion. In preparing this plan, Information on research
                   needs and data gaps was solicited from the geological surveys of the 30 coastal
                   states, the U.S. Island possessions and territories, and appropriate Federal agencies.
                   Coordination and information gathering activities over the past 12 months are shown
                   in Table 1. A number of workshops and meetings were held around the country, a
                   written solicitation and questionnaire was mailed to each of the coastal states, the
                   island territories, and several Federal agencies, and numerous presentations were
                   made.

                   o   Of the 22 states and 6 territories that responded to the questionnaire, 24 ranked
                       erosion and wetlands loss as the most important coastal problem, and 16 ranked
                       coastal pollution as the second most pressing problem (Table 2). In general,
                       hard-mineral resources was ranked third in importance.
                   o   EPA, NOAA, Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA), and U.S. Fish and
                       Wildlife Service (FWS) listed both erosion and wetlands loss and coastal
                       pollution as first-priority issues.
                   o   Coastal dynamics and sediment dynamics and composition were listed most
                       often by the states as areas where additional information is needed.
                       Synthesis and evaluation of the information and research needs indicate that
                   solutions to critical coastal issues require the acquisition of a broad knowledge base
                   which Is currently lacking. For example, many coastal processes are unknown or
                   poorly understood and not adequately quantified.         The rates at which these
                   processes have operated in the past and man's impact on the processes and their
                   rates are also poorly known. To obtain this critically needed knowledge base, the
                   National Coastal Geology Program proposes investigations aimed at better
                   understanding of the physical processes and geologic fratnework within which the
                   processes operate. Examples include processes leading to coastal erosion, to the
                   creation, maintenance, and destruction of wetlands, to the accumulation and transport


                                                             4









                  Table 1. Chronology of steps In preparing the National Plan


                  Great Lakes Region Workshop              30-31 Mar. '89
                    (70 Federal, state, local,
                    Industry attendees).
                  Nearshore Processes Workshop of             23-26 Apr. '89
                    coastal scientists from Federal
                    research organizations and
                    universities to prioritize
                    research needs.

                  Written Input solicited from                       10 Oct. '89
                    33 coastal states,
                    territories, posses Ions.
                  Meetings with Individual coastal states             Oct. '89                Mar. '90
                    on coastal needs, information gaps.
                  Presentations made to Federal,                         14-16 Nov. '89
                    State, Industry attendees at
                    USGS-NOAA EEZ Symposium.
                  Workshop of USGS coastal research                         29-30 Nov. '89
                    scientists.

                  Presentation made/wriften Input solicited                        10 Jan. '90
                    at USGS-NOAA JOMAR Federal Coordinating
                    Committee Meeting (14 Federal agencies).
                  Written Input solicited from DOI bureaus.                             6 Feb. '90
                  Input from EPA, NOAA, and USACE on polluted                          Feb.-Mar. '90
                    sediment needs.

                  Meeting with NOAA and FEMA.                                              21 Mar. '90





















                                                           5



                                   M MM M M                                                                          M Nis mm M                                                                                                   Mimi min m-,






                                  Table 2.       Summary of Inputs from Federal and                 State agencies for the National         Coastal     Plan:

                                                                        ME MA RI NJ PA MO           SC EL AL MS LA TX AK WA OR CA Wl                    IL IN MI OH PH VI W Mp, GUi, EPA NOAA FEMA MMS FWS PM8 HI M41
                                  Coastal Coordinator                   x    x   x    x    It  x    x   x    x     x    x   I    x   x     x   x    x   x   x    x   x    It  x x       x    It    x       It      x      x       x   x      x
                                  Research Act1witles'
                                  Erosion  and
                                  Welland. Laos                         I    1        2    1   2    1   1    1     1    1   1    1   1     1   1    1   1   1    1   1    1   1   1     1    1     2       1       1              1          1   2
                                  Pollution                             2    2        1    2   1    3   2    2     2    2   2    2   1     3   1    2   3   2    2   3    3   2   2     2    2     1       1       1              1          3   3
                                  Hard-Minerel
                                  Resources                             3    3        3    3   3    2   3    3     3    3   3    3   1     1   2    3   2   3    3   2    1   3   3     3    3     3                                         2   1
                                  Problems
                                  Coastal Erosion                                                   x   x    I                             It  x    x   x   x    x   x    x   x   x     x    It    It      x       x                         11
                                  Wetlands Lose                                                                    :    :   :    :   :                           x   x    x   x   x     x    3t    x       x
                                  P Motion                                                                         It   x                                        x   x    x   It  It    x    x     x       x                      It
                                  a                                     X             X        X                                               X                          x                  x
                                  Hard-Mineral Reactirces                                                          it   x                  x   x                                                                          x                  x x
                                  Sediment Accretion                                                         x

                                  Present/Planned
                                  ResearcW-
                                  Coastal Dynsmke                            x                                     x    x   x    x   x                  X                     x                    x                                         x
                                  Coastal Erosion                       x                  x   It       x          It   x   x        x                  x        x   x    It
                                  Sediment Dynamicaf
                                  Composition                           x    x        x    x   x        x    2     It   x   x    x   x                  x
                                  Barrier Studies                            x
                                  Shorel ine  Change                         x                 x                            XX       x                  It           x
                                  Lake/Seallow Mapping                                                  x                                               X        X
                                  Coastal Mayping                                              x        x    x     x    x   x        It             x   .                                                  x       I
                                  Sea-Levet change                                                                                                                                                                                           It
                                  Coastal Strallgraphy                                     x
                                  Neoloclonics                                                                                                                                                                                               x
                                  Wetlands Lose                                                         x               X                                                     X                            x
                                  Habitat Mapping                                                            x
                                  Coastat/Estuaryl
                                  Lake Pollution                                           It  x                   x    x            I                                                                     It
                                  Mineral Resource
                                  Assesernnt/Mapping                         It                              x     x    x   It   x   x     x                              x                                               It                 It  I
                                  GIs                                   x                                               x            x                                                                     z       x      It      It
                                  Info NeedafGap
                                  Coastal Dynamics                           x
                                  Coastal Erosion                                     N    :   X                            R    :   :     I   x                                                           1XI     X.                        X,  x
                                  Sediment Dynamical
                                  Composition                                x        x    x   x        x    x     x    x   I        It        I                 x   x    I             I    It    x                                         I
                                  Coastal M?ping                             X        X    X                                                                                                                                                 X
                                  Shoreline hinge                            x             x                                     :         X   X.       XX           1.   Ix  .   X.    1.   X,    XX      XX      X.             X          x   xx
                                  Sea-Level Change                                                      x               x   x        z         X                          x   x   x     x    x     x       x       x                             x
                                  Coastal Strallgraphy                                     x                 It    x    x                                            x                                     x
                                  Lake/Seafloor Mopping                                                 It   x                                          x        x
                                  Core/Grob Date                        X.                              It   x     x    x   x    It        It  x                          x                        It
                                  Offshore Geophysics                                 x                      x     x    x                  I   x                     x    x
                                  Wetlands Lose                                                x        x    x     x    x   R    x                      It x     x   z        x   x     x    x     x                      It                 x
                                  Habitat Mapping                                                            x          x                                                     x   x                        x                      It
                                  Mineral Resource
                                  Ao=n "a ng                                 x                          x    :     z    x   :    x x       x   x                          K   x   x     x    x                            It                     x
                                  ..     ka@
                                  G         I Stu%..                                                                                                                                    x
                                  Pollution                                                             x          It            x                                        x   x                            x                      x
                                  Water Resources/
                                  Movement                                                                                       x                                                                                                X
                                  GIs                                                                                   x   x              x                                                               x              x       x


                                  Information Is based an written return*, mostings, and feedback from prosentatlons.
                                  Numbers Indicate relative priority order.
                                  American Samoa
                                  Norlhern Mariana Islands
                                  Guam
                                  Palau









                   of           sediments, and to the concentration of mineral resources.           Without
                   un=ng how coastal systems operate, we will not be able to predict natural
                   processes or the Impacts of man.
                       In carrying out the Program, cooperative efforts with state agencies and
                   universities would be emphasized. The studies would build on and be structured
                   similar to our current coastal studies. For example, In Louisiana, scientists from the
                   Louisiana Geological Survey and Louisiana State University work with USGS
                   scientists In conducting barrier Island and wetlands research. The Illinois State and
                   Indiana Geological Surveys are involved in USGS studies of southern Lake Michigan.
                   The Alabama and Mississippi Surveys are working cooperatively with the USGS on
                   the Gulf Coast.

                       The Program would require close coordination and cooperation with other
                   Federal agencies, such as EPA, NOAA, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers (USACE),
                   FEMA, Minerals Management Service (MMS), FWS, and Bureau of Mines (BOM). The
                   Interagency relationships would range from cooperative research with other agencies
                   to transfer of results through meetings and publications. For example, the USACE is
                   responsible for developing a comprehensive plan to manage wetlands loss in
                   Louisiana. As a member of a coordination committee composed of the appropriate
                   Federal and Louisiana agencies (USACE chairs the committee), the USGS is providing
                   technical information for use in the USACE's planning process. The USGS also is an
                   active member on the Coastal and Shoreline Erosion Subcommittee of EPA's newly
                   formed Gulf of Mexico Program, again providing technical information derived from
                   our studies. The USGS provides expertise in coastal matters to advisory boards to
                   the Federal Government. The most recent example is USGS participation on the
                   National Academy of Sciences' committee that wrote the report "Managing Coastal
                   Erosion."2


                                                DESCRIPTION OF THE
                                  NATIONAL COASTAL GEOLOGY PROGRAM

                       The Program consists of four Subprograms: Coastal Erosion, Coastal Wetlands,
                   Polluted Sediments, and Coastal Hard-Mineral Resources (Figure 1). Investigations
                   are proposed to improve our capability to predict natural and man-induced processes.
                   Specifically, we would improve our ability to predict future erosion, the fate of
                   wetlands, where pollutants might accumulate, and the locations of economically
                   valuable hard minerals. We propose two interdependent avenues of research for
                   each of the Subprograms.
                   o   Fundamental studies would be conducted to improve understanding of processes
                       critical to improving predictive capabilities. These critical processes are relevant
                       to most regions and hence can be applied nationwide.              Examples Include
                       processes causing sand transport on beaches and                rocesses producing
                       concentrations of economically important heavy minerals. 91pecific studies would
                       involve theoretical, laboratory, and/or field research.
                   o   Regional studies would apply knowledge gained from fundamental studies to
                       improve understanding of processes, geologic framework, and evolution of the
                       coast within specific regions. An emphasis of the regional studies would be to
                       compare and contrast natural and man-induced processes of well-defined coastal
                       systems where processes are interdependent. Regional studies would involve
                       primarily field research in different arts of the country, which has been divided
                       into six regions: East, Gulf, Great Eakes, West, Alaska, Low Latitude (Figure 2).


                 2 National Research Council, 1990, Managing Coastal Erosion: National Academy Press,
                   Washington, D.C., 182 p.



   mmmmmmm mmmmmmm mm@ mom


                  National Coastal Geology Program

        Issues:              EROSION, COASTAL WETLANDS, POLLUTED SEDIMENTS,
                              HARD-MINERAL RESOURCES

        Develop              FUNDAMENTAL STUDIES,                   REGIONAL STUDIES,
        Predictive           understanding processes                understanding natural and
        Capabilities         critical to developing predictive      man-induced processes and
                             capabilities and applicable            the geologic evolution of the
        Through:          Lto most coastal regions                  coast within specific regions

                            Data delive             Assessments             Information transfe.
                            systems                 - regional              - to state and Federal
                             - data gathered          assessments of         agencies through
        Research              from studies that       natural and man-       workshops, meetings
        Applications:         are useful for          induced processes      and publications
                              management            - national status of    - to other researchers
                              (for example,           specific issues        by publications
                              geographical            (for example,          in technical journals
                              information             rates of erosion
        Figure                systems)                nationwide)








                                                                                                               National Coastal Geology Program: Regions


                                                     West Region                                                                                                                                                                 ---                                              Great Lakes Region




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                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       ........... .. .........

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      ........ .......
                                                                                                                                                                                             ...........
                                                                                                                                                                                                                         ......                                    ............... ..............
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   ...............
                                                                                                                                                                                             ................            I..................  ......               .............. ..............        .......
                                                                                                                                                                                             .....................................    . ...                        .............. ................      .......
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      I..*..,..-..,...-....*..*..*..,..*.'..,..*..'..*..*..'..*..* . ...........
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 East Region

                                                                                        .....                                                                                 ........       ...............................................                       .. ............
                                                                               .....                                                                                                     .............................                                  ... ..                       . ............
                                                                               ...........                                                                                               '-*-**-------                   .....................                                                       ..................
                                                                               .....                                                                                                     ..............................                                  ..... .. .. ..
                                                                               ...........                                                                                               "**-"'-*-*-111*--               ..................... *,*,**"* -11-11 *1 **                                    ... ...... . .
                                                                               ......                                                                                                    .............................                                  ..... .
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                                                                                                                                                                                             .........                   6.............. ......
                                                                               . . . . . . . . . . .                                                                                     ............................................................ .......
                                                                           ... ... .:... .......   ....                                                                                  .*4**.'.1.'
                                                                               X     X X X                                                                                               .....

                                                                       ..............                                                                                                                                    .....................                                                                             ......
                                                                                                                                                                                                                         *41.11*.1.1.1.14
                                                                      ........ .....                                                                                                                                     ...6......
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Gulf Region

                                                 L
                                                      Alaska Region                                                      Low Latitude Regions
                                                                                                                           (Hawaii, Florida Keys, Puerto Rico, U.S. Virgin Islands, Guam,
                                                 Figure 2                                                                    American Samoa, Northern Marianas, other Pacific territories and possessions)








                        The locations of initial regional studies are shown In Figures 3 and 4. These
                        regional studies are distributed nationally to address the broad range of natural
                        processes and diverse impacts of man affecting the Nation's coasts. Note that
                        each study is classified according to one or more Subprograms. The studies
                        shown in Figures 3 and 4 and discussed below are the initial studies to be
                        implemented by the Program through year 7. Clearly, additional research beyond
                        year 7 would be required to thoroughly Investigate the variability of processes
                        nationwide. A synopsis of coastal problems within each region is in Appendix B.
                        Specific types of products which would be derived from the fundamental and
                   regional studies are discussed below.
                   o    Various data delivery systems would be produced, Including data bases
                        containing raw data which could be used for other applications by researchers,
                        engineers, and coastal managers.       Types of data range from the size and
                        direction of nearshore waves to characteristics of surface and subsurface
                        sediments. Geographic Information Systems (GIS) allow merging of data bases
                        with the capability to generate computer map displays of data at any scale. The
                        systems are particularly useful in overlaying different types of data to reveal
                        interrelationships. With recent advances in computer systems, GIS are rapidly
                        becoming a powerful application tool for coastal managers and engineers as well
                        as a research tool for coastal scientists. For example, in our present Louisiana
                        wetlands study, we are developing a GIS    consisting of important factors relevant
                        to wetlands loss for the Louisiana delta    plain. The GIS is being developed In
                        close cooperation with other Federal and   state agencies.
                   o    In the context of the regional studies,    assessments of the natural and man-
                        induced processes operating within         specific coastal systems would be
                        undertaken. The emphasis would be on how coastal systems operate and how
                        changes in processes, whether natural or man-induced, lead to changes In the
                        systems. In addition, national assessments would be made on the status of
                        specific coastal Issues. The intent is to provide national assessments of erosion
                        rates and hard-mineral resources.

                   o    The transfer of results from the Program's studies to concerned Federal and
                        State agencies would be a priority, undertaken through workshops, meetings, and
                        publications as well as through participation in interagency sta.nding committees
                        as described in the section on Strategy.        In addition, an important part of
                        scientific research is the publication of technical results in scientific journals so
                        that other researchers in the relevant fields can be kept informed of new
                        advances. Such dissemination of research results would promote new advances
                        that would eventually benefit man's utilization and management of the coast.
                   Coastal Erosion

                        The objective of the Erosion Subprogram is to improve our capability to predict
                   erosion caused by natural processes and activities of man.              At present, our
                   understanding of the processes leading to coastal erosion is rudimentary, at best.
                   Without understanding the processes, prediction is difficult, if not impossible.
                        Our approach would be to increase understanding of sediment budgets, the rates
                   and pathways of sediment movement within coastal systems. We would develop
                   improved methodologies for determining budgets of sediments and apply these
                   results to different coastal systems around the country.        Knowledge of sediment
                   budget is basic information required to predict erosion and to determine whether
                   mitigation is cost effective and warranted.      With the present state-of-the-art, the
                   sediment budget of a region is very difficult to determine accurately.




                                                               10



                                                                                                                                                                                                           MM lift




                                                                        National Coastal Geology Program:
                                                                                       Initial Regional Studies


                                                                                                                       0 additional Great Lakes Region studies
                                                                                                                                 (areas to be determined)
                                                                                                                                                                                        e"-A
                                                                                                                                                                0 Great Lakes Shoreline Mapping
            0 Southern Oregon
                                                                                                                          eeleee

                                                                                                                       eeeeeeeeee
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                                                                                                                                        11.11le   11                                                  Boston Harbor/
                                                                                                                       "I'lleeee   ee      eeee
                                                                                                                       zeeelle., "lleze                                      zee
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                                                                                                         A Great Lakes Wetlands
                                                                                                                                     eeeeeeel     oeeeeee                      .. ....
            0A San Francisco                                                                                                         eeeleee             e          -
                                                                                                                                      eeeeee
                           Bay
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                                                                                                                                                            eeee
                                                %%%%%%%                                                                                 I      ee."!     lee e@
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                                                %%%%%%                                           Southern Lake Michigan                           eeAee  leetee
                                                     ZZ
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                                                %%%%%%%%N                                                                                                             ........                              Chesapeake Bay
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                                                     1%
                                                 %%%,%%%%%                                                                              01,11el,  11
                                                 %%%%%%%%%%%                                                                              elee
                                                 %%%%%%%%%%%                                                                               e.,                  .... ::*"** .....
                                                 %%%%%%%%%%%%                                                                              ell
                0 California                       %%%%%%%%%%%                                                                                                    ....
                                                     %%%%%%%%%%                                    .............
                                                        %%%%%%%%%                                  .............                                                .....
                                                          %%%%%%
                                                          %%%%%%                                                                                  .........
                                                          %%%%%                                                                                          ......  ........                   additional East Region studies
                                                                                                                                                         .......    ...
                                                                                                   ..................                   ........... ............. ........ ..
                                                                                                                                        ............     ......... .                  o         (areas to be determined)
                                                                                                   ..*..*..*..,..*..*..*..,..*.., ....................... . .............. . . . . . . . . .
                                                                                                   ............................................ ............ .............. ..........
                                                                                                                                                           ..........
                                                                                                   ............................................. .............. ............ ...............  .........
                  >  additional West Region studies
                                                                                             ..................................I ........*......... .... ... . .
                                                                                           ..............................                           ...........
                          (areas to be determined)
                                                                                                              .............................
                                                                                             .............................
                                                                                             ..........................................................
                                                                                                               .. . .. .....
                                                                                                        ............ . . ........
                                                                                                        ...... ...... *,..,,....*-.***.*...*.",..:,..:.-,.*.,.,.:*
                                                                                                        -I..,..,..*..,..,..,..*..,..,..'..I ........                                                0 Florida
                                                                                                          .......................
                                                                                                         ....................
                                                                                                           ...............


                                        erosion
                                   A wetlands                                0 West Louisiana           Uppe@r Texas                              AWest-Central Florida
                                   0 pollution                                                   A Louisiana Wetlands
                                        resources                                        A 0 Louisiana Barrier Islands                                Alabama/ Mississippi

                                                                                                                                  0 additional Gulf Region studies
              Figure 3                                                                                                                     (areas to be determined)




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Ila



                                                                      National Coastal Geology Program:
                                                                      Initial Regional Studies (continued)


                      Alaska Region                                                                                     Low Latitude Regions
                                <>        reconnaissance mapping                                                                            reconnaissance mapping                                  erosion
                                                                                                                                                                                              A wetlands
                                                                       0 Arctic Alaska Erosion                                           46                    awan                           O pollution
                                                                                                                                                                                               9 resources

                                                        ...... .....
                                                                          ...........
                                                      ...............
                                                                          ..............
                                                       ................ ...............


                                                           . ............
                                                         .......                   .........
                                                         ................
                                                         ................................
                                                        ................
                                                                                                                                                                                                          Johnston
                                                                    . . . . . . . . . . .
                                                                                                                                       Puerto Rico
                                                                            ...............
                                                       . . . . . . . . . .
                                                                                                                                             Virgin Islands
                                                     ..........................................
                                                    ...................
                                                ................          .................
                                                                               . . . . . .                                                                                              Palmyra Atoll
                                                                   .......................
                                                                 .. . . . . . . . . . . . .
                                                                                                                                                                                     Fingman Reef
                                                           . . . . . . . . . . .
                                            ...........................................
                                                          X . X.X   X X  XX
                                                                              ..............

                                                                          ................
                                                            . . .           . . . . . . .
                                                                            ...............


                                                           X                                                                                                         Wake
                                                                                                                                                                                                       Jarvisla
                                                                                                                                                             AM.                Howland
                                                           .....                                      .....
                                                                                                                                        M
                                                                                                                                                                                 & Baker
                                                                                                         ....                                                                                           American
                                                                                                                                                                                                         S oa
                                                                 additional Alaska Region st
                                                                      (areas to be determined)                                         Guam
                                                             A




                    Figure 4








                             o@ne"  of the Erosion Subprogram are discussed below. The priorities and
                  p h a s 9in0gmof' individual efforts are shown in Figure 5.
                  Fundamental Studies: Some processes critical to understanding sediment budgets
                  and predictini--coastal erosion are applicable to all coastal regions. One of these
                  processes is the physics of sediment transport. The USGS hosted a workshop In
                  April 1989 to discuss important research directions In nearshore processes. Five
                  agencies sponsored the workshop: USGS, Office of Naval Research (ONR), National
                  Science Foundation, NOAA, and SACE. Participants included most of the nearshore
                  physical oceanographers and sediment transport ex erts in North America (with
                  additional international participation). A consensus o the participants was that the
                  research area least understood and In need of additional support was sediment
                  transport In the nearshore, a particularly complex environment where both waves and
                  currents act together to move sediment. Without the ability to accurately predict the
                  rate of movement of sand along a shoreline under a variety of conditions and In
                  different settings, prediction of coastal erosion Is extremely difficult. A research
                  program focused on sediment transport would Include both theoretical and field
                  investigations. Agencies such as USACE and ONR are also Interested In the topic of
                  sediment transport from different perspectives and concerns. The research to be
                  done In this Program would be closely coordinated with and complement research by
                  other Federal agencies and academic researchers. The physics of sediment transport
                  is an extremely difficult research problem and would benefit from coordinated efforts
                  by several concerned agencies using different approaches.
                       In addition to sediment transport, other critical problems would be identified and
                  addressed. A particularly Important problem is the effect on the coast of sea-level
                  rise. How much erosion would result for a given sea-level rise? How can we predict
                  the impact of sea-level rise on different coastal types, eg. barrier Islands versus
                  bluffs.

                  Regional Studies: Nationwide, there is great variability in the processes causing
                  coastal erosion and in the geologic framework within which the processes operate.
                  For example th@ processes causing erosion of sandy barrier Islands along the East
                  and Gulf of iAexico Coasts are quite different from the processes eroding the rugged
                  cliff coasts common to the West Coast and much of the Great Lakes.

                       Studies within different regions in the country would be undertaken to better
                  understand the diversity of processes and the sediment budget for specific coastal
                  systems. These studies would be conducted in a phased approach. We would first
                  complete and build upon the erosion studies begun earlier, I.e. Louisiana Barrier
                  Islands and Southern Lake Michigan (Figure 5). Additional studies proposed for each
                  region are:
                  o    Gulf Region: The West Louisiana/Upper Texas study would extend the barrier
                       Island effort to a very different environment, which is also subject to extreme
                       erosion at rates of 20 to 40 feet per year. The chenier plain of west Louisiana is
                       composed of ridges of sand separated by muddy sediments, quite different than
                       the barrier islands of central and eastern Louisiana. Fluid mud occurs along
                       some of the coast, greatly affecting the wave climate.
                  0    Great Lakes Region: Great Lakes Mapping, in cooperation with NOAA, would
                       build upon the southern Lake Michigan effort and would systematically map
                       g
                        eology, topography, and bathymetry for all of the Great Lakes shorelines (more
                        etails in Appendix A).
                  o    East Region: The Florida study would focus on the processes of erosion along
                       the highly developed Atlantic shoreline. Different than many other barrier island
                       coasts, erosion results to a large extent by disruptions in sand transport at
                       numerous tidal inlets.




                                                             13




      MMMMMMM MMM
                                      National Coastal Geology Program: Erosion Schedule
                                                                                   Fiscal Year                                               Program Year
                                                                 86       87       88        89       90        91        1         2        3                     45    6         7
                                Fundamental                                                                                         fundamental studies                                      through
                                Studies                                                                                                                                                      program
                                                                                                                                    extreme event studies                                    through
                                                                                                                                                                                             program

                                                                                    .................           ..........          ....................................... ... ...... ......
                                                                                                                         ': ....    ... 1-11-1-1- ......  *:*-.,-.,-..*@@...@.'.:...:.,...............@ ............
                                                                                                           ............
                                                                                                                                                                   ...............
                                                                                                                                                   . .......        ........
                                                                             ..... . ............. .... ......                                                                        ............
                                                                                                                                                                                      ...............
                                                                                                                                                                                      .............
                                                                                                                                             .......... . ..............-             ............
                                                                                                                                                                                      .........
                                                                                   rr,Otj'*l                                                                                          ...........

                                                                                                                                                                                ............
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                                                                                                                         .......    es:
                                                                 .. .. ......                                            ...
                                                                                                                                    ..........   .... ..
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                                                                                                      .................. .          .....
                                                                                             ..bd: ... .. .....
                                                                                                      "."':  . ..............
                                                                             .............   .......                                         .. ............
                                                                                                                .................................................
                                                                                                                                                                                      . .............
                                                                                                                                    ..........
                                                                                                                         .............
                                                                                                                                                                   ................
                                                                                                                                                                            ...............
                                                                                             hOMML-A-0:04""11"                                                                        ...........
                                                                                                                                                                                      .. . .........
                                                               ...............


                                                                                                                                                                            .............
                                                                                                                                    @'a          I"                -pp:in*g*,--::-:::

                                                                   ...........
                                                                                                                                                                                             through PY10
                                                               ...........                                        ....... ......... .                              ............
                                                               .........                              . ... ..
                                                                                             . . . ........ ... ...                 ......... .. .. ...
                                                                                                                                             . . . .. ......
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                                                                                                                                    ........... -.                 p                      ...
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                                                                                                                         ..........                                ..........
                                                                                                                                                                   ..........
                                                                                                                                                                                             through PY1 0
                                                               .'.GRIEATU,Kr                 -- ..... : :::::-           - -.- - -
                                Regional                                                         ...............
                                                                                             . . ............................
                                                                                             ..............I.........
                                                                          .............. -
                                                                                                 .. .........
                                Studies                                                      ..... -.-" ... -:
                                                                   ...             ........  . :.
                                                                  ....... ... .                                                              .. ... ..
                                                                  .....  .. .....
                                                                                                           .. ............-..... ........-
                                                                              ...............
                                                                                                                         ........                                  PC a@ r i
                                                               .........                                                                                                              sm bi&:
                                                                                             ..... ......
                                                                                                                                                                        .....................
                                                                    s.    xi
                                                                                                                                    ............
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                                                                                                                                             ..........                   40 Ormin-
                                                                                             ........                    ........
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                                                                        .......  .......     .....
                                                                                                                                             ...:                  10-Fy
                                                                          .. ...........                                 .............. .... .... ......

                                                                                                                                    . . .............................. I....., ..... ...
                                                               EA                            ...... . . . ..... through PY 10
                                                                                                                                                                   ........... .. ....
                                                                                                                         .............. . .. ...... ....           ...........
                                                                             .. . . .... .
                                                                                                                                                                   ..............
                                                                                             -06--                                  ......
                                                                             ..................
                                                                                                                                    ...... ...... .......                     ion
                                                                                                                         ..........                                         .................
                                                                                                                                             .. .... ....
                                                                                                                                             ................... ..
                                                                               ........... . .......                                                                                         through PY8
                                                                       ... ..........I                                              ...:...
                                                                         .............                                              ...........
                                                                                                                                    ...............

                                                                                                              ... ....... .
                                                                                                                ......... ... .... ...
                                                                                                                                             ..................................
                                                                                                                                             n' Crna                  Ald's' a::::: - rosio
                                                                                                                                    aissa, 0
                                                                                             ..........                                                                   ......... ........ ..
                                                                                             ...............             . ......
                                                                                                                                    ...........                    ........
                                                                                                                                                                                             through PY9
                                                                                                 ...............
                                                                                                                                                                   ............           . . . .....
                                                                                                                                                                   ..........
                                                                                             . . ........
                                                                                                                                                                   ....... I...
                                                                                                                                                                   . . . .....
                                                                                                                                              ............         ........


                                                                                                 .....                              ........
                                                                                                                                             .........                      ......
                                                                                                                                             0 m                            VON:-
                                                                                                                                             -a p'n
                                                                                                                                                p                  01
                                                                                                                                    ...... ..... ... I........................... .............
                                                                                                                                    ... . ......
                                                               IWILATITUDE.                                                                                                  .......
                                                                                                                         . ....................
                                                                                 ..........                                                  ......... ...... . .
                                                                                                                         ....       ..... . . .                       ......
                                                                                                                                                                   ............... ..

                                Assessment                                                                                          Test Case: Gulf                Tentative: other regions
                                                             E                                                                                                                               through PY9
                                Transfer Results                                                                                                                                             through
                                                             L                                                                                                                               program

                                Study addresses coastal wetlands and resource issues as well as erosion.
           Figure 5             Study plan submitted separately to Congress, U.S. Great Lakes Shoreline Mapping Plan (December 1989), by NOAA and USGS.








                   o    West Region: The West Region study would focus on erosion processes of
                        rugged, cliff coasts in California. Problems arising from erosion are common in
                        the West, even though the rugged coast typically erodes at rates lower than the
                        East and Gulf barrier islands.

                   o    Alaska Region: Reconnaissance mapping of erosion and other coastal hazards
                        would be implemented in areas where little information is available.         More
                        detailed work is planned on the role of lee and freeze/thaw processes in causing
                        erosion in Arctic Alaska, an area where erosion inhibits oil and gas development.
                   o    Low Latitude Region: Systematic reconnaissance mapping of erosion (but also
                        relevant to resources, pollution, and wetlands) would be undertaken, where
                        needed, throughout the Low Latitude Region.
                        Objectives and approach are tailored to each specific study. However, each of
                   the studies have common components.
                   o    Geologic Framework: Understanding processes of erosion and sediment budget
                        requires knowledge of the geologic framework within which the erosion is taking
                        place. These studies would provide a broad regional understanding of the types
                        and variability of sediments and rocks and of the historical development of the
                        coast and the important processes involved. Understanding the development of
                        the coast serves as an indication of natural variability and of the state of the
                        coast prior to man's intervention. The types of data gathered to understand
                        geologic framework include cores of sediment from the sea floor and
                        geophysical data to reveal different layers of sediment beneath the sea floor.
                   o    Processes of Erosion:     In each study, we would investigate the processes
                        important to the sediment budget for a specific coastal system. The goal would
                        be to quantify pathways and rates of sediment transport. We would focus our
                        research on important processes that are poorly understood and difficult to
                        predict, but are approachable experimentally. For example, on barrier islands, an
                        important process is the overwash of waves and currents over the barrier during
                        storms.    In contrast, on cliff coasts, waves hit and reflect off the cliff,
                        contributing to erosion of the cliff. These types of investigations would involve
                        measurements in the field and mathematical models.

                   o    Reconnaissance Mapping:       In regions where there has been little previous
                        research on coastal erosion, low-cost reconnaissance mapping helps define
                        problems. The reconnaissance maps would depict the general coastal geology
                        including areas subject to erosion and other coastal hazards, sediment types, the
                        form of the coast, directions of sand transport, and occurrences of hard-mineral
                        resources. Information would be presented uniformly from area to area for use
                        by other geologists, planners, and eggineers and to provide the basic framework
                        for more detailed follow-up studies.        The maps would provide relevant
                        information for wetlands, resources, and pollution problems as well as erosion.
                        As a special type of regional study, investigations would be conducted on the
                   impact of extreme erosional events that occur anywhere in the country. Following
                   the recent impact of Hurricane Hugo on the South Carolina coast, NOAA, the State of
                   South Carolina, and the USGS joined in a cooperative effort to investigate the impact
                   of the hurricane. The National Ocean Service of NOAA (NOAA-NOS) collected aerial
                   mapping photography of the post-Hugo shorelines; USGS shared in the costs. The
                   USGS is in the process of comparing pre- and post-Hugo photography to determine
                   amounts of shoreline erosion. For future storm impacts, similar cooperative efforts
                   with NOAA and other agencies are clearly warranted. We also plan to investigate the
                   potential use of emerging technology in responding to storm events.          The new
                   technology allows for improved resolution of satellite imagery and for applying
                   video/image processing techniques to monitoring beach processes.



                                                             15






                  Assessment: Using the sediment budget for       Ispecific coastal systems, we would
                  assess the role of natural processes and man n contributing to coastal erosion. In
                  addition, using information gathered during the studies described above as well as
                  other available data, we propose an investigation to determine the feasibility of a
                  national assessment of coastal erosion. First, we would conduct an assessment of
                  the status of erosion along the U.S. shoreline of the Gulf of Mexico. The assessment
                  would Include the rates of erosion along the coast and the historic variability of
                  erosion with time. A report would be prepared discussing pros and cons of the
                  assessment, how the assessment could be improved, and whether the assessment
                  should be expanded nationwide. The report also would Include discussion of the
                  feasibill  of periodic assessment updates in cooperation with NOAA-NOS and other
                  appropr1aate agencies. Dependent on satisfactory results from the Gulf assessment, a
                  nationwide assessment would be undertaken in phases.
                  Coastal Wetlands

                       The focus of the Wetlands Subprogram would be understanding specific
                  wetlands systems where many interrelated processes operate to maintain, create, and
                  destroy wetlands. By better understanding how these wetlands systems function, we
                  would Improve our ability to predict the impact of natural and man-induced
                  E
                    rocesses. For example, by knowing how sediment Is dispersed In wetlands of
                    ouisiana, we can assess the utility of man's attempts to Introduce new sediment
                  into the wetlands by large scale diversions of the Mississippi River. The results of
                  these studies would aid other agencies, particularly the USACE and FWS, in
                  evaluating and regulating wetlands areas and In reducing and mitigating the loss of
                  wetlands in all coastal regions of the United States.
                  Fundamental Studies: Some of the physical processes that are critical to assessing
                  and predicting the natural and man-induced deterioration of coastal wetlands are
                  common to wetlands in different regions around the Nation. Example topics would
                  be the hydrodynamics of shallow flows over marsh vegetation, the physics of
                  sediment transport in the presence of different kinds of marsh grasses, and the
                  physical processes responsible for erosion of marsh shorelines. The studies would
                  involve laboratory and/or field investigations. Field work would not be confined to a
                  specific region, but would be conducted wherever the setting is most appropriate to
                  examine a given process.
                  Regional Studies: Wetlands across the Nation display a wide range of variability In
                  their geologic framework and setting and in the processes responsible for their
                  evolution and deterioration. Coastal wetlands in Florida and along the Atlantic Coast
                  are in coastal plain settings in which sea-level rise over the past several thousand
                  years has been a major factor in their origin and evolutionary development. Coastal
                  wetlands around the Gulf Coast are also greatly influenced by changes in sea level,
                  and particularly in Louisiana, river discharge and periodic shifts In position of the
                  river channels. Wetlands that fringe the Great Lakes have a close relationship to the
                  glacial processes that formed the Great Lakes basins during the "ice ages." These
                  wetlands originated with the filling of the Great Lakes and are greatly influenced by
                  historic fluctuations in lake levels.

                       The regional wetlands studies would be conducted In a phased approach as
                  shown in the schedule in Figure 6.         The Louisiana delta plain study in the
                  Terrebonne and Atchafalaya Basins, started In FY 1989, would continue to its
                  completion. New work would include:
                  0    Gulf Region: In contrast to the wetlands of the Louisiana delta plain, that are
                       experiencing rapid sea-level rise due to subsidence, the wetlands of west central
                       Florida are exposed to relatively stable sea level. By comparing processes in
                       each environment, we would learn more of the responsb of wetlands to sea-level
                       rise.




                                                            16







                            National Coastal Geology Program: Coastal Wetlands Schedule


                                                                                                Fiscal Year                                                       Program Year
                                                                             86        87          88         89        90          91           1          2          3           4         5              6       7


                            Fundamental                                                                                                          Critical Wetlands Research Problems                                           through
                            Studies                                                                                                                                                                                            program



                                                                                                       .. ... ........ ......... ......
                                                                                                                                                                                                       ...... ......

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                                                                                                                              ............
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                                                                                                       ...........
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                            Data Delivery                                                                                   Wetlands data base / GIS                                                                           through
                            System                                                                                                                                                                                             program
                            Transfer Results                                                                                                                                                                                   through
                                                                        L                                                                                                                                                      program
                            Figure 6








                  o    Great Lakes Region:     We plan to focus initially an wetlands around Lake
                       Michigan, building upon our ongoing erosion work in southern Lake Michigan.
                  0    East, Alaska wW West Regions: New studies would be phased In these regions
                       beginning in year 4 (East), year 5 (Alaska) and year 6 (West) of the Program.
                       Each of the regional studies would focus an specific coastal systems and would
                  have similar research components.
                  o    Geologic Framework: The geologic setting of the wetlands habitat defines the
                       framework within which processes take place and In which long-term evolution
                       occurs to produce a succession of lakes, bays, swamps, marshes, and peats.
                       Examination of the sediments In wetlands areas, both at the surface and in the
                       subsurface, Is necessary to understand the role of geologic materials In wetlands
                       dynamics. In particular, studies which examine the geologic history of wetlands
                       evolution over the last several thousand years are essential In order to
                       understand how wetlands evolve.

                  o    Wetlands Processes: For each regional study, an interdisciplinary team would
                       examine critical processes responsible for wetlands creation, maintenance, and
                       deterioration. Examples of such processes are: (1) dispersal processes of fresh
                       and brackish waters, (2) transport patterns of fine-grained organic and inorganic
                       sediments, (3) salt water intrusion processes, (4) processes responsible for the
                       development of wetlands soils, (5) geochemical processes as related to transport
                       of pollutants Into and out of wetlands, and (6) role of sea-level or lake-level
                       changes In coastal wetlands deterioration.
                  Data Delivery Systems: The wetlands studies in each of the regions would ultimately
                  result in a large and high quality base of Information. Assembling a digital data base
                  and a GIS network composed of data from USGS studies and other sources Is a
                  major objective of the present study in Louisiana. This effort would be expanded
                  with each new wetlands study.
                  Assessment: For the wetlands systems studied, we would.assess the Integrated
                  g
                     cesses, both natural and man-induced, responsible for maintainin , creating, and
                   erostroying wetlands systems. This Information is directly applicab% to managing
                  wetlands resources anci mitigating wetlands loss.
                       In addition, assessing the status and changes in habitats of wetlands is very
                  important for measuring success of the Administration's "no net loss" policy. The
                  responsibility for making such assessments rests with FWS and NOAA as part of
                  their wetlands mapping and characterization missions.         We would transfer the
                  technical results from the USGS studies to these agencies to be used In combination
                  with results of their own studies to make the necessary assessments.
                  Polluted Sediments

                       A number of Federal agencies have responsibilities relevant to polluted
                  sediments. EPA and NOAA are involved in assessing and mapping their extent;
                  USACE is concerned with disposal of polluted sediments which have been dredged
                  from navigation channels.     The USGS is responsible for understanding geologic
                  processes, and many geologic processes can be applied to the prediction of where
                  polluted sediments are likely to accumulate in coastal areas. Hence, the focus of the
                  USGS Program is to improve predictive capabilities through research on geologic
                  processes.    The research would be closely coordinated with activities of other
                  concerned agencies in order to avoid duplication of effort and to share technical
                  information.





                                                            18









                        Basic questions which concern pollutants In coastal waters are:
                   0    What are the primary sources of pollutants, how are they transported, where do
                        they accumulate and how fast?
                   0    Are the pollutants diluted by natural sedimentation?
                   o    Will polluted sediments continue to be a source of toxins even after the primary
                        source of contamination is reduced or eliminated?

                   0    What measures might be taken by coastal managers to decrease the Impact of
                        polluted sediments in coastal embayments?
                        Because many of the pollutants adhere to and are transported on fine-grained
                   sediments, answers to these questions require an understanding of the geology of
                   nearshore regions and of the processes which transport and distribute sediments In
                   coastal waters. These processes are often poorly understood or documented and
                   limit our ability to make wise management decisions about uses of the coast.
                   Accumulation of pollutants is often especially severe In areas adjacent to major
                   g:pulation centers where pollutants have been added to the ocean for many decades.
                      diments and pollutants typically accumulate in low-energy, semi-enclosed
                   embayments where the currents or waves are not strong enough to transport the
                   material.

                        In many heavily-used coastal areas, numerous, often detailed and expensive,
                   studies have been conducted to evaluate a specific site for a sewer outfall, disposal
                   of dredge spoil, or major construction. However, these site-specific studies often
                   lack a,oregional, long-term perspective, which is essential to determine the
                   Implicat  ns of   a particular activity. The proposed multidisciplinary studies would
                   provide a regional and national system-wide perspective. The long-term objective of
                   the Polluted Sediments Subprogram is to develop the capability to identity and
                   predict the locations and rates of accumulation of sediments and pollutants in the
                   coastal waters In sufficient detail to aid In management decisions. The importance of
                   many of these topics Is discussed in a recently released book by the National
                   Academy of Sciences?
                   Fundamental Studies: In order to develop a predictive capability of sediment and
                   pollutant transport and accumulation, it is essential to understand fundamental
                   sedimentary processes. Although the importance of these processes may vary from
                   region to region, several deserve special attention at present.         Understanding the
                   physics of sediment transport is essential to develop a predictive capability for
                   pollutant transport; of special importance is an understanding of the transport of fine-
                   grained and cohesive sediments.           These fine-grained sediments behave quite
                   differently than sand, which is addressed in the Erosion Subprogram. Advances in
                   this area would require theoretical investigation as well as field and laboratory
                   studies. A second fundamental process is the activity of the biological community in
                   mixing and reworking bottom sediments and pollutants. Finally, an understanding of
                   the water circulation in semi-enclosed embayments and the exchange of water and
                   suspended particles between these embayments and adjacent water bodies Is
                   essential to understand the ultimate fate of pollutants discharged into them.
                   Realonal Studies: Each of the proposed regional studies would focus on a particular
                   coastal embayment; the regions have been selected because of existing
                   environmental problems or because of anticipated problems caused by heavy use.
                   The first priority would be to complete the studies currently underway in Boston
                   Harbor-Massachusetts Bay and Alabama-Mississippi (Figure 7). Although classified
                   as a pollution study, the Alabama-Mississippi Study addresses erosion and wetlands


                  3National Research Council, 1989, Contaminated Marine Sediments: National Academy Press,
                   Washington, D.C., SOB p.                     19



      MMMMM M M MMMMM M MMM Eli No




                   National Coastal Geology Program: Polluted Sediments Schedule

                                                                         Fiscal Year                                          Program Year
                                                          86      87        88             89 90     91          1     2        3        4       5        6        7

                              Fundamental                                                                                     critical problems                           through
                              Studies                                                                                                                                     program



                                                                                                                                                ...............
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                                                                                                                                       long term monitoring               through
                                                                                                                                                                          program



                                                                                                                                                                          through
                                                             ST










                             Transfer Results                                                                                                                             program


                              Study addresses coastal wetlands and erosion issues as well as Polluted sediments.
           Figure 7           Study addresses coastal wetlands issues as well as polluted sediments.








                   issues as well. The first proposed study would be conducted in San Francisco Bay;
                   understanding patterns and rates of sediment transport would significantly Improve
                   the capability to predict the fate of dredged sediments and the locations where
                   polluted sediments would concentrate.          This work, which would also address
                   wetlands Issues, would build upon current USGS Investigations of water circulation In
                   San Francisco Bay. Investigations of other major estuaries would be phased later
                   (Figure 7).

                        Basic components of the regional studies are described below. Study elements
                   and  objectives would be tailored for each region.
                   o    Geol Ic Framework: A first step towards understanding the transport and fate
                        of polluted sediments is to document the geologic and sedimentary environment.
                        These studies would provide a broad regional perspective of the sedimentary
                        regime, including major sediment sources, bottom topography, sediment texture,
                        and selected pollutants. This phase would provide critical insight about the
                        sedimenta     framework, geologic history, and long-term effect of processes
                        operating 7n the study area and Identify hypotheses of polluted sediment
                        pathways for evaluation in more detailed process-oriented studies.
                   o    Pollutants in Sedirnent:      Toxic heavy metals and organic compounds are
                        responsible for environmental degradation; therefore, the concentrations of these
                        substances in water, organisms, and sediments give an index of the health of
                        the system.     Concentrations of contaminants in sediments provide the most
                        stable index of pollution because toxin concentrations in . sediments change
                        relatively slowly.    By the same token, sediments may continue to release
                        P
                         ollutants to overlying waters, particulate matter, and organisms for many years.
                         or these reasons, analysis of contaminant concentrations in sediments is basic
                        to the understanding of transport, effect, and ultimate fate of pollutants.
                        Sediment cores would be taken and analyzed for concentrations of selected
                        heavy metals and toxic compounds.
                        The EPA and NOAA, through such programs as E-Map and Status and Trends,
                        are beginning to provide national assessments of the present status of pollutants
                        in coastal sediments and their change with time. To determine pollutants in
                        sediments for proposed regional studies, USGS would work closel' with EPA,
                        NOAA, USACE, and state agencies to develop unified goals = consistent
                        methodology and to share information. Geology provides a critical key in the
                        assessment of contaminants in sediments by providing an understanding of the
                        areas and rates of sediment accumulation. A long-term goal would be to include
                        understanding of sediments and geologic processes as part of an interagency
                        national inventory of polluted sediments.
                   o    Processes of Pollutant Transport:        In each regional study, process-oriented
                        studies would be conducted to understand the frequency, direction, and rate of
                        sediment transport and the principal processes causing transport. Numerical
                        models would provide insight into the pattern of tidal currents; these models
                        would be especially important in regions of complex topography and geometry
                        where field measurements sufficient to adequately map the long-term circulation
                        pattern are impossible to obtain.             Direct measurements of sediment
                        concentrations and currents would be made to validate predictive models of
                        sediment transport in a variety of field conditions.       An essential part of the
                        process-oriented work would be long-term observations to document extreme
                        sediment transport events as well as seasonal and inter-annual variability.
                   Coastal Hard-Mineral Resources

                        For most coastal areas, available information is not sufficient to construct
                   geologic models which can reliably predict hard-mineral resource occurrences.
                   Consequently, the economic potential of possible resources cannot be adequately


                                                                21








                  established.    A more comprehensive data bass and a better understanding of
                  resource potential In nearshore areas are necessary for planning at the Federal, state,
                  and local levels. This was a recommendation from the recent USGS-NOAA EEZ
                  Symposium (1989) and the subject of a recently published Office of Technology
                  Assessment repore on marine minerals.
                       An objective of the Resources Subprogram Is to locate and quantitatively assess
                  detrital hard-mineral resources, along the coast or In nearshore regions, that might
                  have economic value. The minerals of greatest interest are sand, gravel, shell, and
                  placer heavy minerals, such as gold, chromite,jiatinum, and titanium minerals. A
                  second objective Is to improve understanding         the complex geologic history and
                  evolutionary development of the U.S. coast and Inner continental shelves and to
                  define the critical processes responsible for the formation of nearshore sand bodies
                  which are enriched with heavy minerals or provide potential sand and gravel
                  resources.

                       Specifically, the USGS would conduct regional characterizations of coastal hard-
                  mineral resources.     Focus would be placed on areas with known or suspected
                  potential, as evidenced by previous minin@ history or by the economic character of
                  areas where the hard minerals originated.     he characterization would include:
                  0    A description of the mineralogy of the sediment in terms of its potential
                       economic components,
                  o    Development of geochemical, geophysical, and sedimentologic models, for
                       accumulation of economic concentrations, that can serve as a basis for further
                       regional evaluation and for developing exploration strategies,
                  o    Testing of these models by drilling or coring,
                  0    A description of those aspects of the potential deposits that relate to possible
                       environmental problems associated with the development of the deposits (e.g.
                       sediment plumes, trace metal content),
                  o    A general description of the environmental processes that bear on the Impact
                       associated with the recovery of the resource.
                       Components of the Resource Subprogram are given below. A schedule for the
                  studies is shown in Figure S. At present, the USGS is conducting a cooperative
                  assessment of hard-mineral resources with MMS, BOM, and the State of Oregon.
                  This work would be used to guide subsequent Investigations. Our first step would
                  be to complete the Southern Oregon work and to set regional priorities.
                  Subsequently, resource investigations would proceed in a phased approach.
                  Fundamental Studies: Geologic models for resources are built on an extrapolation
                  from data obtained by sampling and geophysical surveys. The extrapolation relies on
                  an interpretation of the origin and nature of occurrence of the resource. At present,
                  we do not have a clear understanding of the origin of most accumulations of
                  resources, such as heavy minerals, sand and gravel deposits, and phosphates, and
                  the models, accordingly, are incomplete. The approach would be to conduct
                  investigations of critical processes.      A potential topic involves the processes
                  responsible for thick concentrations of heavy minerals on beaches. The studies
                  would not be restricted to any particular region; field location would be chosen in
                  order to best test hypotheses on the origin of the resource.                   Laboratory
                  investigations, involving for example experimental facilities which simulate field
                  conditions, would also be used.


                 4U.S. Congress, Office of Technology Assessment, 1987, Marine Minerals: Exploring
                  Our Now Ocean Frontier, OTA4)-34Z U.S. Government Printing Off Ice, 349 p.


                                                             22







              National Coastal Geology Program: Hard-Mineral Resources Schedule

                                                                                         Fiscal Year                                               Program Year
                                                                       86        87        88         89         90       91           1        2        3          4         5         6         7


                                                                                                                                                Processes leading to concentrations of
                                      Fundamental                                                                                                       coastal hard-mineral resources                     through
                                      Studies                                                                                                                                                              program


                                                                                                                        set regional priorities
                                                                                                                                  -o-
                                                                                                             ..........
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                                                                                                   .... 0:4: ..........  .. .........
                                                                                                            .........       .............
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                                                                    QU    F..,'.'*.@'.'.@'."@'."...,'.','--.:,::,:,:,:,:":,:,:,:".,:,-,"::,:,:*,: .........
                                                                                    .........                                     .......   ......
                                                                                 .............. .          ............                                                                                    Tentative:

                                                                                                                          a
                                                                                                                                                                                                           specific regions
                                                                    ............
                                                                                                                                         ..... ... ....
                                                                                                                                                                                   ......... ..
                                                                    ..........

                                                                                      .. .........                                                                       .......
                                                                                                                 ...............
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                                                                    EA                                                                                                                                     and areas to
                                                                                                                                                                                                           be determined
                                                                                                                                       ..................
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                                                                                                                   ... ............... ........ ",-  ......
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                                                                       LAS.                                         .. . .. .... . .. ....
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                                                                                                                                  Southern
                                      Assessments                                                                                 Oregon              specific areas follow regional studies


                                      Transfer Results                                                                                                                                                     through
                                                                                                                                                                                                           program



                            Figure 8








                   Rmlonal Studies: Hard-mineral resources, such as sand and gravel and heavy
                   minerals, occur Ifin' a wide variety of coastal environments and are the result of a wide
                   variety of concentrating processes. Each of the regional studies would have similar
                   components.
                   a    Geologic Framework:        Because most recoverable hard minerals occur In
                        unconsolidated sediments, primay Investigations would focus on the seabed and
                        at shallow subbottom depths. Several types of geophysical records would be
                        collected to determine the layers of sediment and the geometry of buried
                        features, such as river and tidal-inlet channels.      Continuous sediment cores
                        would be collected at specified target areas.           The cores would aid In
                        Interpretation of the geophysical records, and analyses of the sediment would
                        provide    uantitative information on sediment texture and composition and
                        content 07 Important heavy minerals.
                   o    Processes of Formation:       From existing information, we know that marine
                        minerals are most likely to occur in discrete sand bodies that owe their origins
                        to a variety of geologic processes. In some cases, old river channel deposits
                        and deltas are hosts. In addition, linear shoals are common sea floor features,
                        having dimensions of several miles and containing large volumes of clean,
                        coarse sand. For most sand bodies, a clear understanding of the processes
                        responsible for their origin and maintenance under present conditions is lacking,
                        and regional studies as well as focused fundamental studies are needed.
                   0    Processes of Environmental Concern: Because coastal areas typically are sites
                        of multiple and conflicting land use, mining of mineral resources commonly
                        g
                         resents problems to coastal managers. The consequences of development can
                         est be assessed where the physical processes which operate in the
                        environment around the resource are adequately understood. We propose to
                        conduct studies of these processes in order to predict the consequences of
                        attempting to utilize the resource. The environmental costs associated with their
                        utilization bears strongly on their economic potential.
                        The regional studies would be scheduled to provide maximum Input to the
                   Department of the Interior's Joint State-Federal Hard-Mineral Task Force studies of
                   non-energy minerals on the continental shelves and the MMS's offshore continental
                   shelves resource evaluation activities. The USGS regional studies would provide
                         gic framework, processes, and characterization information for the Task Forces.
                   Korr"ently, the Task Forces are supporting placer-type heavy mineral or sand and
                   gravel studies offshore Oregon, Georgia, and in the Gulf of Mexico region. Results
                   from the USGS Program would aid in developing resource models, in cooperation
                   with university researchers and state geological surveys, for use by MMS and BOM in
                   subsequent economic evaluations.
                   Assessment: Assessment of the economic potential of coastal mineral resources
                   would include two phases: the development of a geologic model of the deposits In a
                   specific area, that would include the dimensions, composition, grade of the deposit,
                   and amount of overburden, and an economic evaluation of the resource based on
                   current economic models. The USGS would have responsibility for developing the
                   geologic models, and MMS and BOM would conduct the associated economic
                   evaluations.   The future regional studies specified on the schedule are tentative;
                   priorities for regional studies would be based on considerations of national and local
                   needs, potential economic importance, and extent of understanding of the region's
                   mineral resource character.









                                                               24







                                         Appendixes


              Appendix A..............................................    A26

                 PRESENT MAJOR COASTAL STUDIES  ......................... A26


                   Louisiana Barrier Island Erosion  ........................... A26


                   Louisiana Wetlands Loss  ................................ A26


                   Southern Lake Michigan Coastal Erosion  ..................... A26

                   Alabama-Mississip pi Erosion and Pollution  ................... A27

                   Boston Harbor Pollution  ................................ A27

                   NOAA/USGS Plan of U.S. Great Lakes
                     Shoreline Mapping Effort  ............................... A28


              Appendix B..............................................    A29

                 NATIONAL COASTAL GEOLOGY PROGRAM REGIONS   .............. A29


                   East ..............................................    A29


                   Gulf ..............................................    A30
                   West ...............................................   A31

                   Great Lakes  ......................................... A32


                   Alaska  ............................................   A32


                   Low Latitude  ........................................ A33




















                                             A25









                                                        Appendix A
                                     PRESENT MAJOR COASTAL STUDIES


                       The existing major coastal studies, ongoing or planned, are:
                  Louisiana Barrier island Erosion (in cooperation with the Louisiana Geological
                  Survey): The overall objective F the study is to improve our understanding of the
                  processes causing erosion of the barriers. These barrier Islands are eroding In
                  places up to 60 feet per year. An Initial step In determining processes of erosion Is
                  to establish the shallow geologic framework within which the barriers formed, eroded,
                  and migrated landward.       The geologic framework refers to understanding the
                  interrelationships between sediments composing the barrier Islands and those of
                  offshore areas where the barriers originated at an earlier time. These studies Involve
                  coring the sediments and using geophysical techniques which look beneath the
                  bottom to help interpret layers of different sediments.
                       Another part of the study focuses on understanding specific erosion processes.
                  Processes which are not well understood but are approachable experimentall
                  include: sea-level rise, storm overwash, onshore-offshore movement of sand, ang
                  longshore sediment transport. The efforts involve direct measurements of waves and
                  currents during storms, modeling, and determination of historical patterns of erosion
                  and accretion.

                       The results of the study are directly applicable to various practical problems.
                  For example, a better understanding of the rates of removal of sand from the
                  beaches Is crucial to determining how often an artificially nourished beach would
                  need replenishment. Investigations of the geologic framework within which barriers
                  formed also lead to identification and assessment of sand resources useful for beach
                  nourishment as well as a greater capacity to forecast accurately future coastal
                  conditions. The study is in the final year of a 5-year effort.
                  Louisiana Wetlands Loss (in cooperation with FWS):            The processes causing
                  wetlands loss are complex, varied,.and not particularly. well understood. Both human
                  activities (e.g. flood control, navigation, river damming, and canal dredging) and
                  natural processes (e.g. land subsidence and sea-level rise) have greatly accelerated
                  wetlands loss and deterioration over the past 100 years. There is much debate about
                  which of the many processes (both natural and man-made) are most significant in
                  contributing to wetlands loss. With increased understanding of the processes, a
                  clearer consensus on methods to retard loss and restore wetlands should emer e.
                  Recognizing the need for better understanding, the U.S. Congress directed the USES
                  and FWS to conduct research on wetlands loss in Louisiana.

                       In cooperation with the State of Louisiana, the USGS and FWS are In the second
                  year of a research study of select Louisiana coastal wetlands. Emphasis of the study
                  is on understanding the critical physical processes that cause the extreme rates of
                  wetlands loss in coastal Louisiana and the identification of the best management
                  practices to address those losses. The USGSIFWS wetlands study includes four
                  parts: (1) Baseline data is being compiled and put into a computer-retrievable format
                  asTart of a GIS network; (2) On a basin scale, research is being conducted to better
                  un  erstand critical processes causing wetlands loss; (3) At specific sites, research Is
                  being conducted on the effects and utility of various wetlands management activities
                  on the processes; and (4) The information and results from these studies are being
                  transferred to the user community by means of reports, maps, newsletters, and
                  workshops.     The results will provide information critical to the design and
                  construction of mitigation structures.
                  Southern Lake Michigan Coastal Erosion (in cooperation with the Illinois State
                  Geological -S-urvey and Indiana Geological Survey): This study, which began in FY

                                                            A26








                  1988, Is focusing on better understanding of past lake levels so that the potential for
                  high lake levels In the future can be assessed and critical processes leading to
                  erosion caused by high lake levels can be predicted more accurately. The study is a
                  5-year effort, and some of the results may be applicable to other regions, since lake-
                  level rise and erosion are problems affecting a I of the Great Lake states. In the
                  short term, the study is providing technical data needed by other Federal and state
                  agencies responsible for developing cost-effective mitigation of the extreme rates of
                  erosion. For example, preliminary results of surveys along the Chicago breakwater
                  Indicate that the level of required repairs Is less than previously thought. This new
                  Information will reduce costs by tens of millions of dollars. Longer term results,
                  developed over the course of the study, will help assess the impact of future erosion.
                  These results can be used to help plan future utilization of the coast and In
                  designing mitigation schemes.
                      The stud Is closely coordinated with activities of other local, state, and Federal
                               3
                  agencies, su% as the Chicago Park District, USACE, EPA, and NOAA. USGS scien-
                  tists are working cooperatively with scientists from the Illinois State and Indiana
                  Geological Surveys and local universities. Specifically, the USGS Is drawing upon
                  the expertise of the Illinois and Indiana Surveys to help implement the program
                  including monitoring coastal erosion In their respective States and determining
                  historic lake levels.

                  Alabama-Mississippi Erosion and Pollution (in cooperation with the State Geological
                  Surveys of Alabama and Mississippi): The Alabama-Mississippi coastal region is a
                  dynamic, interrelated system of barrier islands, tidal inlets, wetlands, and estuaries,
                  that is currently undergoing environmental and physical change due to both natural
                  processes and man's activities. The region Is experiencing erosion at rates, up to 9
                  feet per year in places and Is subjected to hurricane Impacts on the average of once
                  every four years. For example, In 1985, Hurricane Elena destroyed nearly 50 percent
                  of the houses located on the western part of the developed area of Dau hin Island,
                  Alabama.    Furthermore, the region Is Increasingly threatened by polfution from
                  various sources. Wetlands in Mobile Bay are undergoing rapid change, and more are
                  threatened with increased offshore activity for oil and gas development.
                       At the direction of the U.S. Congress and in cooperation with the State
                  Geological Surveys of Alabama and Mississippi, the USGS repared a study plan
                  titled "Sediment and Pollutant Distribution and Geologic Pramework of Coastal
                  Alabama and Mississippi" In April 1989.         This study plan was developed In
                  consideration of available data and scientific information needs, which are required
                  for better understanding of this dynamic coastal system and wise management of the
                  region. The multi-phased study, which will span a 5-year period (FY 1990-1994), Is
                  bein conducted cooperatively by researchers from the USGS, the Geological Survey
                  of Alabama, the Mississippi Bureau of Geology, other Federal and state agencies,
                  universities, and private contractors. With an emphasis on deciphering the geologic
                  framework of the coastal plain, the plan focuses on understanding the physical
                  processes causing erosion and movement of pollutants In the coastal zone. Our
                  9bility to predict future erosion and dispersal of pollutants will improve with
                  increased understanding of these processes.
                  Boston Harbor Pollution (in cooperation with EPA and the State of Massachusetts):
                  The USGS initiated a reconnaissance study of the geologic and oceanographic
                  conditions in the Boston Harbor area In 1987.           The study has been closely
                  coordinated with EPA and other state and Federal agencies involved in developing a
                  plan to eliminate waste discharge to the Harbor.            Wastes from the Boston
                  metropolitan area have been discharged into Boston Harbor for decades, and the
                  Harbor has been identified by the EPA as the most polluted major estuary in the
                  Nation. Massachusetts is presently under court order to construct new treatment
                  facilities and ocean outfall at an estimated cost of $6 billion.            The USGS
                  reconnaissance study in the Harbor addresses the geologic processes affecting the
                  deposition and fate of fine-grained sediments and associated contaminants. The
                  study provides a regional perspective which is essential to developing and

                                                            A27







                   imp!ementing management strategies for waste disposal and restoration of
                   environmental quality In Boston Harbor and adjacent Massachusetts Bay.
                   NOAA/USGS Plan of U.S. Great Lakes Shoreline Ma ina             fort (written jointly with
                   NOAA-N     ): To effectively plan for the effects of nigh water levels of the Great
                   Lakes, the International Joint Commission (IJC) requested "updated and accurate
                   large-scale maps of the shoreline and coastal 7one"             Subsequen ly, the U.S.
                   Congress, through PL 100-220, the Great Lakes Shoreline Ma ping Act of 1987,
                   directed NOAA and USGS In FY 1990 to "submit to the U.S. ongress a plan for
                   preparing maps of the shoreline of the Great Lakes." To meet this mandate, the
                   recently formed USGS/NOAA Joint Office for Mapping and Research (JOMAR) would
                   coordinate and Integrate the efforts of the two agencies to focus on a systematic
                   regional mapping of the U.S. Great Lakes shorelines. The plan contains a schedule
                   to update existing maps and to develop new ones, where needed, which depict the
                   geographic and geologic framework of the Great Lakes shorelines and the areas of
                   erosion and accretion. Within a 10-year period,        geodetically controlled shoreline
                   photography would be obtained to determine precise topographic and bathymetric
                   information. These data would be combined with acquired bathymetric data, forming
                   a continuous data set from onshore to offshore. 7    ,entatively, the study would start In
                   Lake Michigan, followed by Lakes Huron, Erie, Ontario, and Superior. Priority would
                   be given to areas subject to high risk of erosion (>I foot/year) or frequent flooding.
                   The study plan was submitted to Congress in December 1989 and Is under
                   consideration for NOAA's appropriations bill in IFY 1991.

































                                                              A28









                                                        Appendix B
                            NATIONAL COASTAL GEOLOGY PROGRAM REGIONS
                       In =@endlx, an overview of each of the Program's regions Is provided. This
                  is not           as an exhaustive description of the many diverse problems in each
                  region; rather, It presents examples of important problems which would be better
                  addressed with Increased understanding of coastal geology.

                                   CHARACTER OF U.S. COASTAL REGIONS

                       The more than 92,000 miles of U.S. shoreline, and associated wetlands and
                  adjacent continental shelves, are highly variable in character and form due to marked
                  differences In jgeolo
                                      ,a?y and physical processes. The East Region has a broad and
                  low relief continenta shelf, and much of the coast consists of sandy barrier Islands
                  separated from the mainland by lagoons and wetlands marshes. The Gulf Region,
                  similar In many respects to the East, is composed mostly of low-lying barrier Islands
                  and dominated in the north central part by the Mississippi River Delta plain.
                  Northern Alaska also has a broad continental shelf and low-lying barrier Islands. In
                  contrast to the above, the West Region and southern Alaska are tectonically active,
                  with cliffed shorelines and narrow to essentially nonexistent continental shelves. The
                  Great Lakes Region has a wide range of coastal types due to the diversity of the
                  geologic character of the coast and the influences of glaciers over the past few
                  million years. The Low Latitude Region includes the tropical areas of the U.S. where
                  coral reefs actively grow. To varyipg degrees, all of these regions are subject to
                  problems arising from coastal erosion,     wetlands deterioration, polluted sediments,
                  and scarcity of hard-mineral resources.


                                                     EAST REGION

                       The East Region, extending from Maine to Florida, encompasses the glaciated
                  northeastern coast from Maine to Long Island and the southern coastal plain from
                  New Jersey to Florida. Sandy beaches and barrier island systems are the dominant
                  land forms, ranging from heavily developed (e.g. western Long Island, Atlantic City,
                  Ocean City, Vir inia Beach, Miami Beach) to natural and pristine seashores (e.g. Fire
                  Island, Virginia Tarriers on the Eastern Shore, Bull Island, Cumberland Island). Many
                  of the beaches are economically vital as public recreational assets, and the barriers
                  protect ecologically important wetlands marshes and productive estuaries. The wide
                  and low relief continental shelf has been transgressed by the sea several times in the
                  recent geologic past, resulting in the formation of large shoals which contain
                  abundant deposits of sand, gravel, and, potentially, other hard minerals. These sandy
                  shoals are also ecologically important for fishery resources.
                       Within the East Region, erosion of the oceanic shorelines averages 2.4 feet per
                  C
                   ears The states with the most rapid erosion rates are Virginia (13 feet per year),
                     uih Carolina (6 feet per year), Maryland (4.5 feet per year), and New Jersey (3 feet
                  per year).   Roughly 80 percent of the East Region is undergoing long-term net
                  erosion.   Like the barrier island coasts to the south, the more rugged, glaciated
                  coasts in the Northeast also are undergoing erosion, although at lower rates. For
                  example, Maine has a long-term net erosion rate of 1.2 feet per year.






                 5May, S.K., Dolan, R., and Hayden, B.P., 1983, Erosion of U.S. shorelines: EOS, Transactions, American
                  Geophysical Union, v. 64, n. 35, p. S21-5M. A29








                      The East Region contains a number of large estuaries and coastal embayments
                  subject to coastal problems.     Boston Harbor and Massachusetts Bay have been
                  discussed under Polluted Sediments and In Appendix A. Other examples are:
                  0   Chesapeake Bay: The largest estuary In the United States, the Chesapeake Bay
                      has roughly 4,600 miles of shoreline, and more than 8 million people live near Its
                      shores. In terms of dollars, the Bay has the third largest fishery in the United
                      States. Pollution threatens the ecosystem, human health, and the quality of life
                      within and along the Bay. Extensive coastal wetlands which occur around the
                      margins of the Bay are deteriorating due to the pressures of man and other
                      processes. Erosion of the Bay's shoreline is of the same order as the oceanic
                      coasts, roughly 2.1 feet per year. Other large estuaries in the East Region (eg.
                      Delaware Bay) are subject to similar problems.
                  o   Now York Bight: More than 20 million people live along the 250-mile long
                      coastal embayment from the eastern tip Of Long Island to Cape May. This area
                      is heavily used for waste disposal, coastal recreation, fishing, commerce,
                      transportation, and as a source of building aggregate; it will be subject to
                      Increased pressures In the next decade as the coastal population increases.
                      Headlands like Sandy Hook are being eroded, whereas barrier Islands (such as
                      Fire Island and Jones Beach) are being eroded or lengthened. Sand deposits an
                      the inner shelf may reach 38 million short tons and be worth about $1S2 million,
                      but these estimates need to be verified by additional study.
                  o   South Atlantic Bight: Extending from Cape Hatteras, North Carolina, to Ca
                      Canaveral, Florida, the South Atlantic Bight encompasses beach and barrFeer
                      island systems ranging from heavily developed to pristine National Seashores.
                      The barrier islands shelter ecologically important wetlands and estuaries.
                      Deposits of sand and gravel on the inner shelf are potentially Important
                      resources for beach nourishment; other hard minerals which may be present In
                      significant quantities Include phosphorites and placer deposits. The extensive
                      areas of exposed hardbottom in offshore areas are sensitive fisheries habitats.
                      The region falls within the hurricane-prone section of the Atlantic Coast, and as
                      was emphasized by the impact of Hurricane Hugo on South Carolina, extreme
                      storms may drastically reshape the coast.        Within the region are areas of
                      extreme coastal erosion such as Myrtle Beach and Foll Island, South Carolina.
                      Compared to many other coastal areas in the U.S., the touth Atlantic Bight has
                      not been extensively investigated. For example, little is known about the shallow
                      geologic framework in the Bight, particularly offshore of South Carolina.


                                                    GULF REGION

                      The arcuate Gulf Region extends from Florida west to the Texas/Mexico border
                  and comprises about 20 percent of the U.S. coastline. Most of the region consists of
                  low-lying barrier islands protecting shallow bays and wetlands. The central Gulf
                  Coast is dominated by the Mississippi River Delta plain. Bluffs occur in limited
                  areas, such as part of the Florida Panhandle. The Region is, overall, the most low-
                  lying region of the U.S., making it particularly susceptible to flooding during storms
                  and to sea-level change brought about by global climate change.
                      The Gulf Region is impacted by frequent hurricanes, tropical storms, and winter
                  cold fronts. On average, a hurricane makes landfall on the central Gulf Coast once
                  every four years, causing extensive damage and erosion. In 1985, Hurricane Elena
                  destroyed approximately 50 percent of the houses on the low-lying western part of
                  Dauphin Island, Alabama. With the potential for global warming, the frequency of
                  hurricanes and tropical storms may increase.
                      Erosion rates of open coast shorelines within the Gulf Region are typically the
                  highest in the United States. On average, erosion is occurring at 5.4 feet per year!

                                                           A30








                   The most erosive area Is the Louisiana delta plain, with rates In places exceeding 60
                   feet per year. The shorelines of Alabama and Texas are eroding on the average of
                   3.3 feet per year. In places, erosion Is much more rapid; erosion averages 10 feet
                   per year on parts of Dauphin Island.
                        Many barrier Islands In the Gulf Region are heavily developed and Important for
                   the tourist industry. To mitigate the effects of shoreline erosion, the State of Florida
                   and other Gulf Region states are committed to using beach nourishment to raise and
                   broaden the shore, but the volumes of sand fill required for such large projects
                   greatly exceeds existing onshore resources.           The use of offshore sand Is an
                   alternative.

                        The Gulf Coast has 46 percent of the coastal wetlands and 60 percent of the salt
                   marsh within the conterminous United States. In Louisiana, where the bulk of these
                   wetlands occur, they are disappearing at alarming rates of up to 40 square miles per
                   year.   In other areas, such as west-central Florida, where wetlands are directly
                   exposed on the open coast, they are being seriously Impacted by development In
                   support of a rapidly expanding population.
                        Similar to the East Req1on, large coastal embayments and estuaries are subject
                   to pollution. Examples are Tampa Bay and the Mobile Bay/Mississippi Sound areas.


                                                       WEST REGION

                        The West Coast of the conterminous U.S. is characterized by an irregular,
                   mountainous coastline over much of its length. Coastal lowlands, which typically
                   have formed either near the mouths of larger rivers or in areas of active tectonic
                   subsidence, have become sites of major population centers. The most populated
                   areas are the southern California coast between Santa Barbara and the U.SJMexico
                   border, the San Francisco Bay-Monterey Bay area, and the Puget Sound area.
                   Smaller cities are scattered along the rest of the coast.
                        Many population centers have developed around large estuaries which,
                   consequently, nave lost much of their wetlands and become polluted. An Increased
                   public awareness of coastal/estuarine problems has led to intense conflicts between
                   environmental and development factions. Often, impacts on the largest estuaries
                   have far-reaching effects. For example, the supply of water to southern California
                   could be threatened by erosion in the Sacramento Delta; this can be related to the
                   transport of sediment in San Francisco Bay.
                        Like the other regions, problems related to erosion, pollution, wetlands, and
                   resources are common in the West Region. Examples of specific problems are:
                   o    San Francisco Bay Polluted Sediments: Sediment movement into, through, and
                        out of San Francisco Bay is a matter of major consequence to the coastline of
                        the Bay, the central California coast, and the Sacramento Delta. The amount of
                        sediment entering and exiting the Bay has changed dramatically since the
                        Introduction of a huge volume of sediment Into the system by 19th-century
                        hydraulic mining. Changes in San Francisco Bay caused by fluctuations In
                        sediment addition, loss, and redistribution bear on living resources within the
                        Bay, dredging requirements, and loss of wetlands. In places, sediments contain
                        high levels of pollutants. Dredging of polluted sediments to clear shipping lanes
                        poses additional problems, such as locating acceptable dump sites for
                        contaminated sediments.       Other estuaries in the West are subject to similar
                        problems. For example, three heavily polluted areas of Puget Sound have been
                        designated by EPA as Superfund sites.

                   o    Southern California Erosion: This area consists of about 200 miles of coast
                        which is home to nearly 10 percent of the Nation's population.                 Due to


                                                               A31








                         complexities In offshore bathymetry, normal methods of predicting wave energy
                         and direction and, ultimately, sand transport and beach erosion are not adequate.
                         Compared to the East and Gulf Coasts, the terrain Is steep, but sea-level rise
                         could still seriously Impact preservation of beaches and accelerate cliff erosion.
                         The magnitude of these potential impacts Is unknown.
                    o    Resources: The West Region has high potential for hard-mineral resources. As
                         discussed above,           !a' economic occurrence of heavy minerals offshore
                          regon Is being =Itgated cooperatively with the State, MMS, and BOM.
                           amples of other areas with high heavy mineral potential are Gold Bluffs
                            lifornia), Columbia River mouth (Washington/Oregon), and Point Conception-
                         to-Morro Bay (California).


                                                  GREAT LAKES REGION

                         The coasts of the five Great Lakes exhibit a wide range of shoreline types
                    dependin on the geologic character of the rocks at the shore and the influences
                    glaciers gave had over the past several million years. Some shores have large
                    deposits of glacial sediments, while others have been scoured to bedrock. Also, the
                    lake shores vary considerably from being high bluffs of rock or glacial drift to being
                    low plains and freshwater wetlands associated with ancestral lake bottoms, formed
                    when lake water levels were much higher than present.
                         The Great Lakes are one of our greatest water resources, containing 95 percent
                    of the Nation's and 20 percent of the world's fresh surface water. Fifteen percent of
                    the U.S. population and fifty percent of Canada's population - about 40 million people
                      live close to the Great Lakes. Pollution Is a problem of great and Immediate
                    concern. The Great Lakes Water Quality Board has identified 42 "Areas of concern,"
                    25 of which are located in U.S. waters. The principal problem is toxic wastes: PCB's
                    and polynuclear aromatic hydrocarbons, and heavy metals, such as lead and copper.
                    Examples of problems are:
                    0    Fish In the St. Louis River and St. Louis Bay contain PCB's and mercury,
                    o    In Lake Erie, sediments at the mouth of Maumee River contain cyanide, metals,
                         and ammonia.

                         The average erosion rate for the Great Lakes shorelines of the U.S. is 2.1 feet
                    per  year.  Fifteen percent of the Great Lakes shorelines have been classified as
                    subject to severe erosion. During 1985-86, lake levels reached their highest elevation
                    in this century, and erosion of the shorelines was severe. For example, on the Ohio
                    shore of Lake Erie, the low clay banks at Maumee Bay retreated 22 feet per year.
                    Fifty-foot high bluffs retreated up to ten feet per year. Understanding the periodicity
                    and magnitude of lake-level changes is important not only for predicting high levels
                    and the impact on future erosion but also for predicting low levels which might
                    necessitate dredging polluted sediments from channels and harbors to improve
                    navigation.


                                                      ALASKA REGION

                         The Alaska coast is highly varied and includes the extremely rugged southern
                    coast exposed to the Pacific Ocean, the barrier islands and the Yukon Delta plain on
                    the Bering Sea Coast, and the nearly continuous barrier islands bordering the Arctic
                    Ocean. These coasts are shaped by diverse processes. Active tectonism occurs in
                    southwest Alaska where historically great volcanic eruptions and earthquakes have
                         0
                         Ex
                         (Ca





































                    occurred. Wave energy ranges from very high in the North Pacific to relatively low
                    on the ice covered Arctic Ocean. Ice and freeze/thaw processes are very important
                    in shaping the coast in the Arctic.         A32








                         Alaska Is the Nation's last remaining great wilderness area. Oil extracted from
                    the  fragile arctic coast Is trans-shipped from the tectonically active southeastern
                    coast. The billion-dollar-a-year tourism industry relies heavily on coastal attractions
                    such as luxury cruises, fishing, and the coastal wildlife and natural splendor. The
                    regions fishery Is the largest in the Nation.
                    o    Wetlands: The forty-five percent of Alaska classified as wetlands - an area equal
                         the size of Texas - is heavily used for breeding., nursery, and feeding by local
                         and migratory wildlife. Coastal wetlands are critical to the food supply, health,
                         and survival of numerous whale and bird species.
                    a    Pollution: The Exxon Valdez oil spill occurred In Prince William Sound, where
                         the geoloqi@c processes affecting the coasts are virtuall            unknown.       With
                         continued nigh tanker traffic, the area is subject to future spirls.
                    0    Tectonics: Seventy-five percent of Alaska's population are located on coasts
                         subject to major earthquakes. Tsunamis (large waves) generated by landslides
                         and other processes have inundated communities and climbed the sides of
                         mountains to 1,200 feet above sea level.
                    0    Erosion: One quarter of domestic oil production originates from the Arctic Coast
                         area.   Rapid shoreline erosion, which is equal to or greater than that in the
                         remainder of the U.S., alters habitat, hinders oil extraction, and redefines political
                         boundaries. Unique ice-related processes control erosion along the Arctic Coast.
                    0    Hard-Mineral Resources: Coastal areas of the Bering Sea have relatively high
                         potential for heavy minerals. Mining for gold is ongoing offshore of Nome in the
                         northern Bering sea, and coastal mining is contemplated In the Arctic (sand and
                         gravel), southern Bering Sea (platinum group), and Gulf of Alaska (gold).


                                                  LOW LATITUDE REGION

                         The Low Latitude Region includes the tropical areas of the U.S. where coral
                    reefs actively grow. These include the Florida Keys, Hawaiian Islands, Puerto Rico,
                    U.S. Virgin Islands, American Samoa, Commonwealth of the Marianas, Guam, and the
                    possessions of Howland, Baker, Jarvis, Johnston, and Palmyra Islands. Excluding
                    south Florida, this region represents approximately 12 percent of the U.S. shoreline.
                    Although this region has similar resource, erosion, and pollution problems as other
                    U.S. coastal regions, there are several unique aspects of coral reef environments that
                    deserve attention.
                    0    The living "healthy" reef is a resource in itself. For example, nearly $400 million
                         annually is generated from tourists who want to dive on small Molasses Reef off
                         the south Florida coast.       Nearly $3.4 billion per year of reef-related tourist
                         income is generated in a three-county area of south Florida alone. Coupled with
                         the major tourist industries of Hawaii, Guam, the Virgin Islands, and Puerto Rico,
                         a significant amount of money is spent annually for recreational purposes in
                         coral reef areas.

                    0    Sand and gravel resources are a particularly acute problem in island settings.
                         Many low-lying coastal areas have limited on-land construction materials, and
                         nearshore sources are needed to supply local construction needs and for beach
                         nourishment where coastal erosion is severe. Exploration for such resources
                         has increased during the 1980's and would be an essential element of any
                         serious coastal program for the next decade.
                    0    Coastal erosion is widespread and serious but a poorly understood process
                         within the low latitude areas because no significant data is available. Erosion
                         problems are known to exist along the west Zoast of Guam, the island of Saipan

                                                                A33








                       In the Northern Marianas, the south coast of Tutuilla, American Samoa, and at
                       numerous localities on the Hawaiian Islands. Tourism Is a major source of
                       income for these areas, and beach stability is a prima   concern. For example,
                       Puerto Rican beaches receded up to 30 feet during ge passage of Hurricane
                       Hu o with estimated losses over $1 billion. In addition, severe wetlands loss
                       ang mangrove destruction occurred along the northeast coast.
                       Coastal pollution is widespread, and In many areas, it Is severe enough to
                       warrant warnings to prohibit swimming In lagoons (e.g. the west coast lagoons
                       of Saipan). Because of their Intimate relationship with coral reefs, low latitude
                       areas are acutely susceptible to pollution and the potential effects associated
                       with climate change.











































                                                           A34









              NATIONAL COASTAL GEOLOGY PROGRAM


                           A Plan of Geologic Research on
                 Coastal Erosion, coastal Wetlands, Polluted Sediments,

                         and Coastal Hard-Mineral Resources




























                                     COASTAL ZONE

                                  INFORMATION CENTER





                              Department of the Interior
                                U.S. Geological Survey



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