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A@"r 4ADV e- W' %J@A W "4 "AW VVt4 va Ln 110 co ;0 -J -J tD 0) 0 C-)0U) (D -1 0 scensi, cn VI for Coastal rn His cry A: on Tralls 7p kJ wIBc0r#j8IImAmk COASTAL ZONE MANAGEMEfNT LAKE SUPBRID 7 JUL Z 8 Wisconsin Coastal HIS cry Trails LAZZ.- SUPERIOR Prepared by: PropertY Of CSC LibraXY@, James Purinton W19CONSIN COASTAL ZONE MANAGEMENT DEVELOPMENT PROGRAM State Planning Office Room 0-130, 1 W. Wilson Street Madison, Wisconsin 53702 Phone: (608) 266-8952 Financial assistance for this Public Information and Awareness Project has been @provided through the Wisconsin Coastal Zone Management Development Program by the Coastal Zone Management Act of 1972 administered by the Federal Office of Coastal Zone Management, National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. State of Wisconsin -0S DEPARTMENT OF COMMERCE NOAA Patrick J. Lucey, Governor COASTAL SERVICES CENTER t 2234 SOUTH HOBSON A@ENIJE CHARLESTON,,SC ?9405-2411@ February, 1976 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS This booklet was developed and reviewed through the efforts of many individuals at the state, regional, and local scenes. Special thanks are due to the following persons for their vital contributions: Harold Andreson, Jeffrey Dean@,' Robert Matteson, Superior State Historical Cable Society of Wisconsin Marjorie Benton, Joan Melson, Bayfield Ellef Ellefson, State Historical West Salem Society of Wisconsin Warren Bielenberg, Apostle Islands Rudy Graf,'.-, Ayse @Somersan,. -National Lakeshore Deparlmdrit of UWEX-Recreation Resourceis: Natural Resources Center Henry Buffalo, Red Cliff George Gunderson, Mary Tone, Department of Ashland Richard Cleary, Transportation' State Historical John Wroblewski, Society of Wisconsin H. -W. Kinqey, Washburn Iron County L. M.,Cowley, Port'Wing Ed Kuhimey, Northwest Regional Planning Commission COVER ARTWORK/LAYOUT: Connie Olson GRAPHICS /CARTOGRAPHY: Bob Chase EDITORIAL ASSISTANCE: Nancy Begalke WISCONSIN COASTAL HISTORY TRAILS IS DEDICATED TO THE UNUSUAL AMERICAN TRAVELER WHO SLOWS DOWN @@ 49 W AND SEES MORE The story of Wisconsin is Inseparable from the story of the Great Lakes. Inhabited by Native Americans for nearly 12,000 years, the Wisconsin 4, shores of Lake Superior and Lake Michigan were vA@ first seen by Europeans in their search for a water route to the Orient. French explorers plied the waters of almost every navigable stream along Wisconsin's coasts, little realizing that 41 these same streams would soon become water- ways of commerce for a growing nation. Later in Wisconsin's story, lumbering, mining, manufacturing, and many other pursuits all were RA reliant on the easy transportation provided by the Great Lakes. River mouths and natural harbors, long the favorite locations for Indian camps, were chosen as ideal sites for white settlements so '77 they,too, could be on the Main Street of the new Midwest. Soon, these 'small coastal hamlets blossomed into centers of activity as immigrants flooded A F port towns. The northern Europeans-the British, the Dutch, the Germans, and the Courtesy of Harry Purinton Scandinavians-were the first to arrive. Then southern and eastern Europeans came to build Wisconsin Coastal History Trails was developed out physical remnants of the past and get you the growing cities, to work the northern mines to help us rediscover the past, to renew our started. You can concentrate on historical com- and forests, and to farm the soils of the interior. Great Lakes heritage. In the spirit of our nation's mercial storefronts, church steeples, residential But those glorious days of lake lore have disap- bicentenniall,,.two publications have been devel- architecture, industrial waterfronts, or museums. peared. Gone are the times when 200 schooners oped to guide bikers, hikers, and boaters through You can also dig into local histories-the stories could be sighted from the Bayfield highlands, Wisconsin's early development where history was and legends of ordinary people, their exper- when Goodrich steamers daily brought mail and made--L-along the shores of Lake Superior and up iences, their habits, and their successes and supplies to every hamlet on the coast. Except for the coast of Lake Michigan. failures. Whatever your inclination, Wisconsin those who still make their livelihood on Wisconsin Coastal History Trails should stimulate your curi- waters, we are a landlocked people unaware of Everyone will want to study history in a different osity and make your excursions along the beau- our past ties to the Great Lakes. way. Wisconsin Coastal History Trails will point tiful coasts of Wisconsin more enjoyable. 4 Table of Intents'- (page) (page) AS.KETCH OF NORTHWESTERN 'WISCONSIN .......................... 6 WATER TRAILS FOR BOATERS ............................I....... 40 Readings for Historical Perspective ..................................... 8 Lake Superior Marine History .................................. 41 Historic Canoe Trails ................................................ 42 LAND TRAILS FOR BIKERS AND HIKERS ................................ 9 Small Boat Possibilities ............................................ 43 Cruising the Historic South Shore ............................ 44 Early Land Routes and Modern Trails ............. .................... 1 Q Water-Accessibie Sites ......................................... 45 Historic and Scenic Sites ....................................................... 11 Navigation and Cruising Guides .......................... 45 Local History Tours .............................................................. 13 Superior History Tour ................................. ...................... 13 Apostle islands Tour. ............... ............................................ 19 LAKE SUPERIOR COASTAL HISTORY Bayfleld History Tour ......................................................... 23 TRAIL .............................................................. Map Insert Washburn History Tour ...................................................... 26 Ashland History Tour ......................................................... 29 Land Trails Montreal-Hurley History Tour .................................. ......... 33 Campsite Locations General Terrain and Traffic Along the Trail .......................I... 36 Historic and Scenic Site Locations Trail Description and dues .................................................... 36 Campsites ............ ......................r.................................... ew ...... 38 Connectors to the Lake Superior Trail ................................... :@8 For Hikers Only . ..................................................................... @39 A Sketch of Northwestern Wisconsin The magnificent woodlands, the pristine lakes and streams, the marshy lowlands, and the rug- 4, ged uplands of northwestern Wisconsin are all t, dwarfed by the largest of the Great Lakes, Lake Superior. Stretching for 150 miles, Wisconsin's northern water boundary has an undisturbed beauty not easily surpassed. As an eighteenth A century visitor once noted, the area is a 7@ fairy scene, and everything about it is enchant- ment. 'I" But Wisconsin's Northwest is not only beautiful. It has a rich history full of famous names like Father Marquette, J.J. Hill, and John Jacob Astor. Fr om the romance of the "coureurs du bois" to the ruggedness of America's frontiersmen, northwes- tern Wisconsin has a history of personalities, of human warmth and hardship, and of a continuous struggle to dominate a harsh environment. Under AA the French fieur de fis, the British Union Jack, and finally the American stars and stripes, fur traders and pioneer settlers have always at- tempted, but never quite succeeded, in taming 0@ -W the beast that nature has provided in her Lake Superior environment. Aft n The area's abundant natural resources have al- ways attracted the attention of the speculative pioneer. At first it was the lure of the val u able beaver pelt. Then the magnificent white pine be- came valuable, even necessary, for an expanding courtesy Of state HistorIcal Society of Wisconaln nation. Industrial factories also needed reserves Pioneer home of Nels Wickstrom family (1893). of iron and copper ores for the advancing civiliza- tion. All these resources provided boom periods R for the south shore of the lake and were the major impetus for the area's settlement and de- velopment. Unfortunately, they all were vastly overutilized because exploitation - not manage- ment - was the name of the game. 6 A The boom and bust pattern of natural resource discovery, exploitation, and depletion created a cyclical pattern of economic attraction and stagnation for the Northwest. Fur trading began soon after the first Frenchman explored the south shore in the early 1600's. Hampered by Indian hostility and infighting for trading rights, fur trad- ing continued sporadically until the mid-1800's. Lumbering operations began in the late 1880's @W q@,@ ilk" and died in only 50 years; the entire supply of white pine was completely cutover. Iron County Aw mining thrived at nearly the same time, then was overshadowed by the great Mesabi orer deposits, V and finally dwindled until the last mine closed only 10 years ago. A Smaller industries like brownstone quarrying and Lake Superior fishing also suffered from the 7@ boom and bust cycle for their own reasons. Only a small fishing fleet and a second growth 71 pulpwood industry have survived. Today, a newly @7' rediscovered natural resource, the area's beauty and remoteness, lures visitors and nurtures the area's prevalent tourist industry. AIN. But what of the people of the Northwest? Prior to the ar rival of the Europeans, several Native 7 American groups inhabited the Great Lakes re gion. Scholars believe that the earliest of these groups arrived before 11,000 B.C. However, not A 41141" Ar much is known about Native American settlement 01@1_ t patterns from that prehistoric date to the coming Courtesy of State Historical Society o Wn of the Europeans. The Chippewa, the Huron, and Northwest loggers J1906). the Ottawa moved to the Chequamegon Bay area sometime in the 1600's. These tribes were forced westward by the warring Iroquois and occasional- River mouths and protected bays also offered the 1890's, Ashland was the third largest port on the ly had to face threats from the Sioux to the West. opportunity to Use relatively inexpensive water entire Great Lakes and had shipped a total of 10 By 1680, the Chippewa dominated the area. transportation. Millions of tons of raw materials million tons of Gogebic iron ore. Today, and products of the shore area and the interior Ashland's waterfront is nearly silent, and, after About the same time, the French expanded their have been shipped on Lake Superior. After the many lean years, Superior is the only Wisconsin fur trade westward from Quebec to Lake Superi- opening of the Soo locks in 1855, the vast iron port on Lake, Superior with a major commercial or along the exploration routes of Champlaign and lumber resources of the Northwest became role. Montana coal, grain from the Great Plains, (Lake Huron, 1615), Etienne Brule (Lake Superk easily accessible toe.attern markets. Canadian oil, and enriched Mesabi ore called or, about,1621), and Radisson and Groseilliers -taconite pass through the revitalized port of (Chequarnegon Bay, 1659). The Indian tribes During the heyday of' lumbering and mining in the Superior. liked the metal implements and trade goods they received from the French. In a few years, the without a nickel in their pockets. Miners also torical Society, 816 State Street, Madison, Wis- Indians became so accustomed to the French sought the same rough and tumble type of consin 53706. $1.00. goods that they permanently changed their life pleasure-seeking, a complement to their equallyr Trails of the French Explorers, Marion S. Scanton . 'Styles to adapt to the French fur trading-barter rugged and dangerous occupations. (1956). Naylor Company. Available in libraries. system. At the other end of the spectrum, Bayfield gained Other Readings for Historical Perspective: During the height of the fur trading era, LaPointe a reputation for elegance and taste. The tiny was the center of the Northwest. The first trading village became known as a health and recreation Ojibwa, Red Cliff Band of the Chippewa (1974). post called LaPointe was probably located on resort for the rich and the famous. Luxurious Available from the Red Cliff Arts and Crafts Cen- Long Island. However, LaPointe soon became cruise ships toured the Lake Superior shore and ter, Red Cliff, Wisconsin. $2.00. synonymous with Madeline Island, where at least made the Apostle Islands a focal point for vaca- Wisconsin Indians: Lives and Lands, Nancy Oes- three different fort sites are known along the west tion trips. Elegant hotels catered to the whims of treich Lurie. Wisconsin State Historical Society, shore. the visiting aristocracy of the upper Midwest. - Others chose Bayfleld as the ideal site for their 816 State Street, Madison, Wisconsin 53706. Jesuit missionaries accompanied the French fur ornate summer homes. $0.75. traders westward. Many zealous, if unsuccessful, The French Regime in Wisconsin and the attempts were made to convert the Indians. First, All the different nationalities and cultures and all Northwest, Louise Phelps Kellogg (1935). Wis- Father Allouez (1655) came to the sites of Ash- the extremes of income, religion, and life style consin State Historical Society, Reprinted 1968. land and Superior. Then Father Marquette tried have left their marks on the heritage of Lake Available at libraries. to revive Allouez's work but was forced back to Superior's south shore. Struggle and hardship The British Regime in Wisconsin and the Sault St. Marie. He then traveled to Mackinac were accepted as a part of pioneer life in the Northwest, Louise Phelps Kellogg (1935). Wis- Island to begin his famous voyage up the Fox- North. Time-proven traditions and customs were consin State Historical Society. Reprinted 1968. Wisconsin waterway and into the Mississippi passed on to succeeding generations. Available at libraries. River. . Today, a warm, generous, exuberant people live Empire in Pine: The Story of Lumber In Wisconsin White settlement of the south shore did not really in the stillness and solitude of the old Northwest. 1830-1900, Robert F. Fries (1951). Available in begin until the late 1800's when the lure of They Invite you to explore, discover, and enjoy libraries. lumber and iron attracted loggers and miners. their beautiful Northland so that you, too, will Settlers came from Canada, Scandinavia, and the come to understand Lake Superior's unique St. Croix Trail Country, William Gray Purcell Slavic countries of eastern Europe. Eventually, coastal resources. (1967). University of Minnesota Press. Available members of all major waves of immigration to in libraries. America helped settle the area. Many ethnic Apostle Islands Area Sourcebook. Reprints of names and traditions are still recognizable in the historical writings of Lt. Gov. Sam S. Fifield region today. Bibliographical Sources: (1903) and John Chapple (1945). Available Workers flocked into the Northwest with the The Coasts of Wisconsin, James Napoli (1975). from: Apostle Islands National Lakeshore, Con- opening of a new saw mill, a new mine, or a new U.W. Sea Grant College Program, 1800 University tact Station, Bayfield, Wisconsin 54814. $1.00. port facility. Then, when panic paralyzed the na- Avenue, Madison, Wisconsin 53706. FREE. The Lake Superior Country in History and in tion or when the resources became depleted, Chequam egon Bay and the Apostle Islands, Story, Guy Burnham. Available from Browzer's some residents left the area. All along the lake, Book Store, Ashland, Wisconsin 54806. Marjorie Benton (1972). American Association of county populations peaked in the early 1920's University.IWomen. Available from: Mary Tone, Historic Chequamegon, Rhoda R. Gilman (1971). and have been on the decline ever since. Box 103, Ashland, Wisconsin 54806. $1.00. Available from: Apostle Islands National Wisconsin's lumber towns and mining settle- Lakeshore, Contact Station, Bayfield, Wisconsin ments were like the typical wild frontier towns of Lake Superior, G.L. Nute (1944). Bobbs-Merrill. 54814. $1.00. Available at libraries. the old West. After receiving their wages for a The History of Wisconsin, Volume 1, From Ex- winter's work, lumberjacks invaded every nearby Madeline Island and the Chequamegon Region, ploration to Statehood, Alice E. Smith (1973). town, enjoyed its liquor and vice, and often left John 0. Holzhueter (1974). Wisconsin State His- Wisconsin State Historical Society. $15.00. 8 Land Trails for Bikers. aut Bikers.. JklF, 0 ST LE I lAAND perbr 48 E. c, L Fl. Fk. pt 41- Scale "W" EARLY LAND ROUTES AND will be described in appropriate detail for the view the early history of Lake Superior's coastal MODERN TRAILS traveler who wishes to ride or bike the whole communities. All of these local tours are de- distance. For convenience, the trail will be de- scribed and mapped in the section entitled I'Lo- scribed from west to east, from Superior to cal History Tours." During the very early days in the Northwest, there Hurley. The Lake Superior Coastal History Trail is, at was nothing comparable to the modern road. In addition, more detailed local history tours have present, only a suggested, unmarked route. While Those were the days of water trails and Indian been developed for the less ambitious traveler. it makes use of planned city or county bike footpaths. Even as late as 1878, most travel was The tours are short and provide numerous oppor- routes, the Lake Superior Trail does not have still along major waterways. tunities for the weekend or afternoon biker to signs at every intersection to guide the biker. At that time, goods that were land-hauled were almost always transported by the railroad, which was just reaching northern Wisconsin (see map) - The most-common "road" at the time was the logging road. It was seldom surfaced, was used Early Land Routes primarily when the ground was frozen, and usual- ly led nowhere as it connected the pine forest to 1878 the shoreline. There were a few very poor roads connecting the villages, but they were certainly 0 L7 9 V less desirable than water or rail routes. d 0 Ideally, a land-based coastal history trail would Lake 13 6p@v retrace historic roads and connect historic R-1011 co e places. Unfortunately, even the primitive roads of Superior PB.vf..l . @.- Lake 1878 are all but forgotten. penor .-M I---- SUpen0r To add to the problem, there are only a few paved recreational trails in the entire state, and not a single one runs along Lake Superior. In Ashland fact, the only paved roads seem to be state and county trunk highways. Most town roads are gravel, sand, or even clay. Taking bicycle safety into account, there are few choices left for the cyclist. Nevertheless, it Is possible to travel by foot or by In ........... bike on scenic, little traveled roads near Lake Superior's shore all the way from Superior to Hurley. With one exception, that is. There is no suitable route through the Bad River Indian Reservation, so the trail goes south to Copper Falls State Park, nearly 20 miles away from the lake. The entire Lake Superior Coastal History Trail, its historic and scenic sites, and possible campsites are identified on the large regional map. Later in this chapter, the sites, the route, and campsites 10 HISTORIC AND SCENIC SITES 3. Brule River Valley. One of the most used voyageur-fur trading routes to the interior. Now has a reputation as one of the few' This section describes the sites along the Lake wild rivers in the state. In 1880, Samuel Superior Coastal History Trail. The numbers refer Blodgett of Bristol, England, started a co- to the site numbers on the large regional map. operative colony called Clevedon at the More detailed local history tours for Superior, mouth of the Brule. It lasted only five years . . ...... . . ...... Boyfield, 1he Apostle Islands, Washburn, Ashland, and nothing remains. . . . . . . and Montreal-Hurley are included in the following South of the bridge on Percival Creek section. stood the old Percival Copper Mine in the mid-1880's. By 1873, the mine had a shaft 1. Port City of Superior. See "Superior His- 15 feet deep where the vein was four feet tory Tour." wide. The site is now well hidden and 2. Finnish Windmill. South of STH 13. Was the Davidson Mill built in 1885. Although grown over. this is a Finnish Windmill, it resembles the President Calvin Coolidge came to fish for Courtesy of SHSW-Historical Preservation windmills associated with Holland.' trout on the Brule in 1928. His summer Amnicon-Miller. Creek Scenic Areas, STH White House was on Cedar Island, and his Port Wing Consolidated School (Site 5). 13 curves just past the windmill. Very office was in Superior. scenic as road crosses Amnicon, then Mil- 4. Site of Oriente. At the 'Mouth of the Iron ler, Creeks. River. Except for the ruins of a few founda- tions, not much remains of the town of school. Wagons and sleds also provided Orienta. However, the site was the location the first free school bussing in the state. of the first lumber mill on the south shore 6. Herbste.r. This town has several interesting of the lake (1852). A part-time govern- buildings and is situated at the mouth of ment surveyor blazed a trail through the the Cranberry River. The Cranberry Slough wilderness from St. Croix Falls to build a and the'adjacent Lake Superior shoreline water-powered mill at the river's mouth. are good examples of unique freshwater An old brownstone quarry was also locat- environments. The Herbster beach has al- z v ed a mile upriver. A gravity railroad carried so been an excellent source for agate the stone to a pier at the site of Orienta. hunters. 4A. Town, of Oulu. Possible alternate route 7. Bark Say This bay is another excellent from the Brule via CTH H, B, and A. The natural area. It also has a slough at the "MP t nship is the center of a Finnish farming river's mouth. To the west, Bark Point was ow community and has many interesting old once a center for commercial fishing and log cabins and barns. Several structures at the site of a small settlement until the the State Historical Society's Old World 1940's. Wisconsin came from this area. 8. Cornucopia. This fishing village still has an 5. Port Wing. This village was the child- active commercial and sport fishing fleet, hood home of author Helga Samuelson as evidenced by the harbor buildings. 9 Skogsbergh. The pioneer days of Port Cornucopia is noted for having one of the Wing are retold in Ms. Skogsbergh's book, few Eastern Orthodox Churches in the Comes the Day, Comes a Way. This rustic North, St. Mary's. Siskiwit Bay was the ....... . .... fishing village contributed several innova- scene of an early Indian massacre where Courtesy of State Historical Society of Wisconsin tive ideas to the state. The Port Wing Fox Warders killed an entire band of Chip- Finnish Windmill (Site 2). School was the state's first consolidated pewa (seethe historical marker). 17. Weber Lake Recreation Area. Scenic view of Iron County hills from atop Radar Hill, north of the lake on STH 122. Park and swimming at Weber Lake. f8. Iron Mine Head Frame. Visible remnant of an early iron mine south of the higfiway near Pence. Also look for the many log structures in Pence. 19. Iron Mining Centers. See the "Montreal- Hurley History Tour" for Wisconsin's min- 000-01 ing heritage. Hurley's twin city, Ironwood,, is the gateway to Michigan's Upper Penin- sula and attractions like Porcupine ta ift the Keweenaw Peninsula. . . . . . ........ 7 courtesy of State Historical Society of Wisconsin Cornucopia Fishing Fleet (Site 8). A TCj@@ 9. Little Sand Bay. Once the home of the 13. City of Washburn. See "Washburn History Hokanson Brothers Fishery, Little Sand Tour. Bay now serves as the headquarters for 14. Odanah and the Bad River Reservation. A N possible side trip from Ashland to the vil- IN the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore. r 10. Red Cliff. This is the village of the Red Cliff lage of the Bad River Band of the Chip- Band of the Chippewa. Stop in at the Arts pewa. Access to the Bad River and and Crafts Center to view some of the Kakagon Sloughs, fascinating examples of historical and cultural artifacts of the tribe. true, freshwater deltas. Famous for walleye 11. Historic City of Bayfleld. See "Bayfield fishing. History Tour. 15. Copper Falls State Park. Northeast of 1 1A. Bayfield Highlands. Breathtaking pan- Mellen. Well developed system of hiking orama of the Apostle Islands from high trails. Loop trails to "devil's gate," Copper above Bayfield. Stop at,, Hauser's Flower Falls, Brownstone Falls, and Tylor Fork e, Gardens or climb the Bayfield Fire Tower. rapids or cascades. 11B. Bayfleld Fish Hatchery. Built in 1889, this 16. Saxon Harbor. Originally platted as the facility still serves the sport fisherman. Its port city of Ironton and destined to be the modern, automated process is quite a con- port of the Gogebic Iron Range. However, trast to the 85-year-old building. the venture quickly failed during a money 12. Historic Madeline Island and the "panic" of the late 1800's. Now a small Courtesy of.SHM-Historical Preservation Apostles. See "Apostle Islands Tour." boat harbor and park. Bayf leld Fish Hatchery (Site 11 B) 12 13 SUPERIOR HISTORY TOUR Historical Profile. Excerpts from Lake Superior, by Grace Lee Nute, the Bobbs-Merrill Company (1944). 'J "Superior had its origin as a speculative project in the mind of Henry M. Rice. . . Actual settle@ a ment of Superior began in 1853 when Rice's associates and other groups of speculators from St. Paul and Ontonagon arrived almost simultaneously on the ground. . . All speculation, including railroad plans, was ended effectively by. the panic of 1857, which struck hard at the little, settlements on the shores of Lake Superior. From a figure of nearly three thousand, the population of Superior fell to about a thousand. . . Superior had hoped to be the terminus of the first railroad to the head of the take, but when one came, in 1870, its terminal was Duluth. . . "Superior became a city in 1889 and by 1890 it had become, the second city in population in the state of Wisconsin. The Great Northern, the Duluth, South Shore, and Atlantic, and the Chi- cago, St. Paul, Minneapolis, and Omaha railroads Irk 4 now have lines into the city. The grain elevators ng the largest in the world. . . are amo "This (Duluth-Superior) is the great port on the Great Lakes, and one of the greatest ports in the world. Although residents will say to the contrary, it is practically impossible to separate the life of a the two modern cities. As in most twin cities, the people of one place work or play frequently in the other. If an observant stranger tried to state the 4 situation succinctly, he might say something to this effect . . . : A resident of the 'twins'prefers to -A.A_ 1-11 1. 1 - Courtesy of state Nworico, sowor ot wisconsin say that he lives in Duluth; it has the greater Superior Ore Docks. social prestige; actually, the commercial and in- dustrial life of the twins is probably greater in Superior." Tour Description Take E. 2nd Street all the way out to its intersec- from the park all the way to N. 61st Street. tion with 50th Avenue East and Diagonal Street It is a very scenic route for,hikers.. The 10-@mile tou*r begins at the intersection of (pass Sites 14-20). BE CAREFUL, THOUGH, BE- 2. Ogden-John Avenue Area. Southbound Tower Avenue and N. 21st Street, close to the CAUSE E. 2nd STREET IS THE MAIN DRAG ..on Ogden: Look for brownstone buildings, center-.6f the city. The Billings Park Side Trip INTO TOWN. There is a sidewalk on the land side especially - the home at, 1708 Ogden. (Site 1A) goes west from this corner. of E. 2nd Street and a path worn in the grass on Northbound on John: Look for the wooden Go two blocks east to N. 21st Street and John the bay side. Baptist Church . (John Avenue at N. 16th Avenue, passing the Roosevelt Terrace 'Apart- For a less hazardous altemate route, turn right Street) . ments (Site 1). Turn left onto Belknap and go onto E. 5th Street from'6th Avenue East and 3. Tower Avenue Commercial Area. Many two blocks to Tower Avenue. Turn right onto continue through East End (where Superior turn-of-th,e-century brownstone and brick Tower to tour the historic commercial area (Sites began) all the way to Nemadji Park (Site 20). storefronts. Look up at their second sto- 3,4,5). Continue north on Tower to the Farmers Cross the bridge and go one block toward the ries to see the architectural style and date Union\ Grain Elevator (Site 6) at the water's water on 36th Avenue East. Follow Itasca Street of construction. Try to figure out why cer- edge. and St. Croix Street to 50th Avenue East, where tain buildings were constructed-were Turn east toward the Fraser Shipyard on N. 1st you'll be forced back toward E. 2nd Street. they to serve as stores, rooming houses, Street, go under the High Bridge, and tour the banks, hotels, or places of entertainment? industrial waterfront (Site 7). From the corner of E. 2nd Street and 50th This area served the human needs of the Avenue East, turn onto Diagonal Street. Diagonal early port of Superior, the city where Backtrack on N. 1st Street to Ogden Avenue and Street curves, turns into E. 3rd Street, curves goods were transferred from rail to ship. turn left. Several blocks later, the corner of again, and finally becomes CTH E. That's the Odgen and N. 6th Street is the starting point for road to the Apostle Islands area. the Connors Point Side Trip (Site 7A). Continue southbound on Ogden to Broadway. Sites Turn left onto Broadway and continue to Ham- mond Avenue. Turn right onto Hammond and 1. Roosevelt Terrace Apartments. N. 21st proceed for several blocks to Belknap (passing Street at Ogden Avenue. Built by FDR's Sites 8-10). Belknap is the street just after the father in 1890, it is claimed that this brick Municipal Building and the Courthouse. and brownstone structure was one of the Turn left onto Belknap and pass Site 11. Travel first condominiums in the country. east to E. 7th Street (at Hill Avenue). The Soo- 1A. Billings Park Side Trip. One and one half Line Locomotive Side Trip (Site 1 1A) starts from miles west of Tower Avenue at the foot of this corner, continues on Belknap to E. 5th N. 21st Street. The St. Louis Bay natural Street, turns left onto 5th, and turns right onto area resembles Norway's fiords with its "E" Street. many islands, its narrow and twisting Continuing the tour, turn right (southeast) onto peninsulas, its clay bluffs, and its deeply E. 7th Street and pass Site 12. Proceed to 4th indented bays. The area is largely un- Avenue East and turn right. Central Park will be developed and provides a wilderness-type on your left. atmosphere right in the city of Superior. Prior to the arrival of Europeans, St. Louis Take a half right onto Juniper and continue to Hill Bay was an important Indian settlement, Avenue. -Turn left onto Hill and go one block to and Billings Park was the site of Native Laurel: Turn left onto Laurel. Central Park will American burial grounds. To the east of W57 again be on your left. Pass Site 13 at E. 9th the park is the site of, an early attempt to courtesy of State Historical society of Wboonsin and Wisconsin Civil Works Administration (1934) Street and continue on 6th Avenue East until you make steel from Mesabi ore. Billings Park reach E. 2nd Street. Drive, a dirt and gravel road, curves south Old City Hall (Site 8). 14 15 Look for the new and old Post Offices 8. Old City Hall. Broadway at Hammond I IA. Soo-Line Locomotive Side Trip. Located (1401 Tower and 1716 12th Street), the Avenue. Brownstone built in 1890 as a at the foot of "E" Street which runs east Holden Agency (925 Tower), and the old trade mart. After that venture failed, the from E. Sth Street, the Sao-Une Locomo- Moran Stevedoring Company (off Tower city took it over and used it until 1970. tive sits In front of the municipal sewerage Avenue on N. 3rd Street-"Rooms 250, You'll probably find It empty. facility. 500"). 9. Broadway Apartments (1890). Broadway 12. Kimball House. 201 E. 7th Street. 4. Union Station (c. 1911). Now the Amtrak at Hammond Avenue. Interesting old Elaborate Victorian home of 1890's. Sur- depot. Broadway at Oakes. Brownstone apartments across from the old City Hall. rounded by similarly impressive homes of station built to replace the original struc- 10. Carnegie Library (1901). 1204 Hammond the early elite. ture (built in 1682) which burned to the Avenue. Known for building libraries 13. Central Park Area. Octagon House, 66 ground. This depot served as the rescue throughout the nation, the Carnegie Laurel: One of the unusual octagon homes station during the Cloquet Forest Fire that Foundation helped fund many of the librar- in the state. Central Park Row House: Next burned eastward to the bluffs of Duluth in ies In northwestern Wisconsin. to the Octagon House; row houses are rare 1918. In northern Wisconsin. 5. Soo-Line Depot (1910). 14. Barker's Island. "S.S. Meteor, " the last 6. Farmers Union Grain Elevator. At the foot remaining whaleback, is docked here. The of Tower Avenue. Tallest grain elevator in "Meteor" was built in 1896. Operated on the world, rising some 285 feet above the the Great Lakes for 75 years. Brought to water.. Typical of Superior's industrial Superior as historical maritime museum. waterfront-4arge storage facilities for Barker' s Island also Is the point of depar- grain, coal, oil, and iron close to the shore ture for cruise excursions at the Duluth- where the products wait to be transferred Superior harbor. into ships. 15. Douglas County Historical Museum. E. 7. Fraser Shipyard. N. First Street at Cloug 2nd Street. Exhibits on marine history, ear- h Avenue. Shipbuilding and repairing round y Superior, and Indian fore. Located In the out Superior's industrial waterfront activity. former residence of the lumber baron, Look for ships in for repair and ships wait- Martin Pattison. Ing to be scrapped. 16. East Sth Street Historic Area. Residential and commercial area having interesting 7A. Connors Point Side Trip. From the corner of Ogden and N. 6th Street, Connors Point buildings. Look for these: is east on N. 6th Street and then north on Onaway Club. 810 East 5th Street. Catlin Avenue, which becomes Main Street Courtesy of SKSW-Historical Preservation Podvin House (1890) - 1202 East 4th after it crosses E. 2nd Street. Row House (Site 13). Street. Not much Is left on Connors Point to First Presbyterian Church. 1316 East remind us of Its role in the development of 11. Belknap Area, Interesting buildings on 5th Street. early Superior. It was a focal point of the Belknap Street from Hammond to Weeks Lenroot Home. 1209 East 5th Street. town in the late 1800's when the Lanborn Avenue. Look for these: Avenue bridge was the main bridge to 17. Old Stockade Site and Marker. E. 2nd Duluth. The last remaining street is still Douglas County Courthouse. Belknap Street. Stockade was built by U.S. govern- called "Main Street," however. at Hammond Avenue. ment in 1862 to protect the townspeople Once on Connors Point, try to imagine a Christ the King Cathedral. Belknap at tram Chippewa and Sioux uprisings which, shipyard located on the harbor. This is Baxter Avenue. incidentally, never spread eastward to where Alexander McDougall started his Central High School. 1015 Belknap. Superior. shipyard in 1889 to build a new de- Was the summer office of President Panoramic view of Superior's waterfront sign-the whalleback. Calvin Collidge In 1928. and Barker's Island. .7 Courtesy of SHM-111storicel Preservation Douglas County Historical Museum (Site 15). 18. Historic Area. 23rd Avenue East off E. 2nd shipyard and the first mechanical sawmill 22. Itasca-Allouez Area. Look for these histor- Street. St. Francis Xavier Church, E. 4th (1855) were also situated on the Nemadji. Ical remnants of the far east end of Superi- Street at 24th Avenue East. St. Adalbert 20. Burlington Northern Ore Docks (1890's). or: Catholic Church, 2226 E. 3rd Street: Built Most of the present docks are 10-20 years in 1857, this Is the oldest church in city. younger than the original structures. Father Allouez Historical Marker. F. Al- 4th Street Fire Station: Built In 1690. Dormant for years, the docks are once louez landed at the mouth of Bluff 19. Nernadil Park. 31st Avenue East off E. 2nd again shipping Mesabi Range Iron ore, now Creek In 1680. Street. The first settlement in Superior was in the form of pelletized taconite. on the Nemadji River. The old settlement's 21. Franklin School. E. 2nd Street at 37th Itasca, Presbyterian Church. cemetery is within park lands. The Old Avenue East. Good view of the Nemadji Itasca Waterfront. First Calvin Church, dating back to 1854, River valley and the ore docks (Site 20) looked over the river. Superior's first from the school grounds. 16 53 Su q Hi I ell Z LJ 5 Connors P. WT1111p @Ll 6 Sid Int E 8 4@; A rI + i LJ E side TrIpS & L@_ DIM I L L It 7-1 L '111 '1 L j I& 6 p7 _j J LJ L: L_j . Billings - --I,- r-, LJ IA -Side Tri mom Ell Ll H,"L. ElD= Lij L_j IL loe \ji o Oil il te 1 8 APOSTLEISLANDS TOUR Historical Snapshot-Heyday of the Apostles @Xcerpts from Chequamegon Bay and the Apostle Islands, by Marjorie F. Benton, The American Association of -University Women (19M). "A man named Wilson moved from LaPointe to A" Hermit Island, now named for his recluse habits. Tales were relayed about his 'four rooms Strange- 1Y Joined together with outside doors In each.' The legends generated about hidden treasures brought great attention from the cruise excur- ni, SiOnists. Stories continue to be told about th is man-his past, his temper, and his hoardings. "Bark Cottage, also on Hermit Island, attracted the curiousi too. Frederick Prentice, the 'brown- stone man,' apparently built the house in 1891, .. . ......... near the dock for his Excelsior Quarry, as a . ... .... ... .. surprise for his wife. Though called a 'cottage, it has rooms 'Complete with baths and closets' for twenty guests. it stood completely covered with "S, -11 bark veneer, three stories high, and crowned with 49 an observatory. The balconies were trimmed with cedar limbs... His wife rejected it as a resi- dence, however, apparently preferring the New York City life to which she was accustomed.. 41 'Mysterious, perhaps, to the Indians, mysterious ? to the fur traders busily traveling westward, mys- teridus to throngs of excursionists In the past Courtesy-of State Hlstwfcai SmIety at WI-con-M century. (the) Islands continue to hide many Pike's Quarry: One of the area's famous brownstone Secrets. Strange phenomena, navigational quarries that flourished during the late 1800's. hazards which may have been uncovered by years Of erosion, sunken wrecks and other sad' disasters or tragedies have generated yarns. Lore, builds each season, adding. to. the shadowy back- ground myths of the original Chippewa people and the still earlier mound builders who inquisi- tively visited the Chequarnegon region. Tour Description lakeshore, wilderness campsites will be available to tour the interesting rock formations and on Sand Island (Site 19), and transportation will the wilderness of the Apostles. A longer 5- There are a number of interesting possibilities be provided from Little Sand Bay. For the pre- 1/2 hour cruise travels as far as Devil's for the exploration of this historic and scenic sent, the following offers several possibilities for Island and stops for lunch at Rocky Island. area. Bayfield, Washburn, and Ashland all have exploration of the Apostles: C. Access to Other Islands. Eventually all of mapped history tours. Some of the islands and the Apostles, except Madeline, will be the tip of the peninsula are accessible by bike A. Madeline Island (Site 1). Easily within maintained by the National Park Service. It and ferryboat. Those areas within reach of the reach via the regular ferry run from is usually possible to arrange for some land traveler are described below. A second sec- Bayfield. Take your bicycle. The museum, wilderness camping on Stockton or a more tion entitled "For Water Travelers" is geared to the old Indian cemetery, and historic remote island. CAUTION: Check with those who either own or can rent a boat. LaPointe are within a short riding distance. A.I.N.L. personnel at Bayfield or Little Camping is available at picturesque Big Sand Bay for guidance on how and where For Land Travelers: Most of the Apostle Islands Bay State Park. to camp. are, as yet, inaccessible to land travelers. As part B. Apostle Islands Cruise Excursions. A two D. Red ClIff Indian Reservation. The Red Cliff of the plan for development of the national hour, 25-mile excursion leaves twice daily Band of the Chippewa are happy to greet visitors to their lands. They only ask: (1) Check in with them at the Red Cliff Arts and Crafts Center. (2) Enjoy their lands and hospitality, but don't abuse either. @4I Fine campsite at Raspberry Say at the end of a nice ride through the reservation. For Water Travelers: Most of the Apostle Islands have at least one spot along their shores with navigable water. Few have safe harbors or piers, ch wind and water conditions. CAUTION: so wat Respect the rights of property owners whether on ee public, private, or Indian land. The National Lakeshore office at Bayfield or Little Sand Bay has the most up-to-date information on public 7, ownership and public access. ,two-_ A. Canoe and Small Boat Facilities. The Fish Creek Wetland (Site 3) and the Kakagon Slough (Site 2) are the only safe waters for small boats. Fish Creek is just off STH 13 west of Ashland. The Kakagon Slough is more difficult to reach. Check in with the Bad River Tribal Office at the school in Odanah. B. Cruising Facilities. Bayfield, Madeline Is- land, and Port Superior offer the most complete marina facilities. The marinas at Courtesy of State Historical Society of Wisconsin Bayfield and Madeline Island are in the Apostle Islands rock formations. heart of historic areas. 20 21 Site Descriptions northwest part of the island. The famous Sand Island Lighthouse. Throughout the "Hole In the Wall" rock formation is off the last century, the channel to the mainland 1 . Madeline Island. Historic west shore and northeast corner. This island was the home has begun to fill with washing sands. the village of LaPointe. Scenic Big Bay of Benjamin Armstrong, adopted son of 20. Squaw Bay Caves. Site of extraordinary State Park. Historic Chequamegon is the Chief Buffalo, for many years. caves large enough to enter with a small best guide to the Island's history. It is 9. Manitou Island. Gravel beach on boat. A French name is reported to be available at the National Lakeshore station southwest side. Site of another old fishing inscribed deep inside the sandstone cave. in Bayfield. camp. These camps were homes for one or It is probably a 20th century joke, but it 2 Kakagon and Bad River Sloughs. Canoe more families during the best fishing sea- makes an interesting story, nevertheless. and small boat area. Wild natural area son in the summer months. 21. Eagle Island. Was formerly called representative of true freshwater delta. Cat Island. Like most of the islands, Cat Steamboat Island because of its nearness Teeming with aquatic and land-based ani- Island has rock formations facing the open to the steamboat channel. Little mal life. Wild rice Is harvested upriver. lake and beaches along its sheltered sides. Steamboat Island used to be next to Eagle Contact the Bad River Band of the Chip- 11. Otter Island. Site of old logging camp near Island, but "mysteriously sank" (with pewa at Odanah for Information and per- the southeast side. Rocks on north shore. higher lake levels) beneath the surface of mission to explore the area. 12. South Twin Island. Unlike its "twin", the lake. Eagle Island's wilderness is 3. Fish Creek Sloughs. Canoe area. Wilder- South Twin Island does not have a single reminiscent of the old Northwest. The is- ness similar to the Kakagon delta, but rock formation. land is now the, site of a heron rookery and more accessible to the modern explorer. 13. North Twin Island. Nearly all rock. gull colony. There are no more eagles here, 4. Basswood Island. Presently part of 14. Rocky Island. Sandy beach on east side however, as man and his chemicals have Apostle Islands State Forest. The area's forms protected harbor for small craft. forced them to move. Only one nesting first sandstone quarry was near the south 15. Raspberry Island. Site of a beautiful old pair of eagles remains along the entire end nearly 100 years ago. At one time, lighthouse and beach. Great Lakes coast. Basswood also had some farming activi- 16. Bear Island. Rock formations on the north ties. Interesting rock formations on the and east sides. east shore. 17. Devil's Island. Guiding ships north of the Apostles, Devil's Island is one of Lake 5. Hermit Island. See Historical Snapshot at the beginning of the "Apostle Islands Superior's most important lighthouses. The island also has some of deepest and most Tour." 6. Stockton Island. Presently part of the interesting cave formations in the Apostle Apostle Islands State Forest. Will be a Islands. Wave action in the sandstone L c camping area for the Apostle Islands Na- aves makes unusual sounds, thus the In- tional Lakeshore. Was called "Presque than name "Evil Spirit Island." Isle" by the French. Site of an old brown- 18. York Island. This island was two islands in stone quarry near the southwest corner; the 1820's. Since that time, the two have sites of several old fishing camps along the been connected by washing sands. south shore. Beach at the southwest 19. Sand Island. Like several other islands, corner, and several rock outcrops on the Sand Island once had year-round re- northeast shore. sidents. They lived by fishing and some 7. Outer Island. Lighthouse, rock cliffs to farming. Daily visits by steamers brought east. Eroded clay banks to the west. them mail, supplies and, occasionally, a 8. Oak Island. Rising nearly 500 feet above visit to the mainland. Now only summer the lake, Oak Island is thickly wooded with residents visit the island. Some of the deep ravines. A precipitous clay cliff al- more interesting buildings still remaining courtesy of state Historical society of Wisconsin most 100 feet high is situated in the include the Sand Island School and the Sand Island Lighthouse (Site 19). The Apostle Islands and PN, T,,*!" Island Island Chequarnegon Bay 114 , 13 Outer F"' - :' 10-1.1617 12,1, is T,i, Bear I s; and Island I Iss, sland(@ I tt.r Ironw ood@ Island Yor' O'sland I Vl,l,nd C 15 ani".. sla 2@Eag V1 In. le 0a f, Stuckto. Island Island Island _ - - t 6 LG I,IIIand 20 He Mihi. 8-Y 'ea, Island Basswood Island Madeli L k Be fieid Island Ferry Excursion -JVb- Bike Trail In. ,land\ A Campsite Lighthouse ashbur Marina, All-Weather Anchorage Chequavrary- dk Small Boat Ramp Bay S.I. of Miles GVb 5 V", Ou r 22 .23 BAYFIELD HISTORY TOUR Historical Prof Ile Excerpts from A Walking Tour of Bayfield, by Royden Tull, sponsored by the Bayfield Chamber of Commerce and the Sigurd Olson Institute (1974). "The city was named after Lt. Henry Bayfield by Its founders, U.S. Senator Rice from Minneapolis, Rittenhouse, Sweeney, and others in the Bayfield Land Company. They (with Dalrymple) optimist!- catty thought Sayfleld had the potential to be the greatest port on Lake Superior because of the ma deepwater bay, protection by the Apostle Islands, and a projected railroad to St. Paul connecting vu Bayfield to the Incredibly fertile midwest and great plains states. . . 'The climate of the Lake Superior at midsum- mer is delightful beyond compare, the air is soft and bracing, at the same time. . . the common '7 diseases of mankind are here comparatively unknown, and I have never seen an individual whose breast did not swell with a new emotion of A '44 delight as he Inhaled the air of this northern 7, wilderness. Charles Lanman, 1896. These -7 sentiments made Bayfield a spa for the rich and wr the famous as Mr back as the 1890's, when opulent Island View Hotel of Bayfield catered to 200 guests, often turning people away because it% was full. "in 1904, Bayfield reached a population of over 2,000 people. It was the calm before the storm. Courtesy of State Historical Society of Wisconsin Fishing leveled off, but held steady until the early Bayfield Fishing Industry November, 1908. 1950's. The lumber boom faded out in the 1920's and tourism diminished.. "Bayfield has maintained itself through fishing, fruit farming, tourism, and pulp-cutting. Now, . . Bayfield is in the enviable position of being one of the few towns in America that has not been spoiled by the outside developers and the greedy self-serving speculator. Site$ 4. Christ Episcopal Church (1870). North 11. The Roundhouse. First at Manypenny. Third Street. This interesting wooden This railroad roundhouse is a remnant of 1. Frank Boutin, Jr. House (1908). Rice at church predates most of the buildings in the glory of Bayfield's lumber era. Its Front Street. Built as a summer home for Bayfield. Note the lace hanging from the hand-operated turntable was in front of the Frank Boutin, Jr., a native of Bayfleld who eaves. roundhouse. At the height of the lumbering 5. William Knight House (1892). Third at season, most of the adjoining waterfront Washington. Built for William Knight, a was plied high with lumber waiting to be famous lumberman and apple grower. shipped. Carnegie Library (1903). Brownstone 12. Ferry Dock. Foot of Rittenhouse Avenue. Madeline Island ferries and Apostle Islands down the block at Washington and Broad tour excursions leave from the northern Street. Built on land donated by Dalrym- end of the harbor's breakwater. ple, owner of the Transfer Railroad. 6. Old Bayfield County Courthouse (1883). 13. Booth Fishery Complex. Foot of Wash- ington Avenue. Many of the buildings from 400 block of Washington Avenue. Built of the old Booth Fishery date from the brownstone, the building served as the 1880's. The cooperage is now occupied by t county headquarters for only' 10 years. In 1892, Bayfield lost the county seat to the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore. Washburn in the scandal of the year. Some Some of the other fishing shacks have 200 lumberjacks were wined and dined in. been renovated into gift shops. Washburn in exchange for their "proper" vote on the issue. After the vote, some -folks from Washburn reportedly "snuck up Courtesy of 81118WHIstarical Preservation- in the dead of night and stole the records 7 Frank Boutin, Jr. House (Site 1) from the courthouse." Since that time, the courthou se has been used as a school,. as P.O.W. housing during World War.11, and, as a storage building. 7. Theodore Ernst House (1890's). 17 N. made his fortune in We stern timber. A Fourth. Extremely fine work of this first- fountain in the yard complements the rate craftsman and cabinet maker who built many of the "gingerbread-trimmed" elaborate architecture of the home and is homes in Bayfield. reminiscent of the days when Bayfield was 8. Fuller House (Rittenhou dubbed "Fountain City. " The city fathers so Inn) 301 Rit- dammed the creek at the Rice,St. ravine tenhouse Avenue. Built by Civil War Gener- and redirected its flow throughout the town' al Allen C. Fuller (1890) as a summer with hollow logs. home. General Fuller, like many other sum- M& 2. St. Mary's Catholic Church (1898). First mer visitors at that time, came to Bayfleld Street at Sweeney Street. Built of Lake to ease his hay fever condition. Superior sandstone. The rectory was the 9. Department of Natural -', Resources-w first brick building built in Bayfield (1891). Bayfleld Third - at Wilson. Waterfront 3. Rice Street Footbridge (1912). The headquarters for the nearby state forest graceful iron bridge was built after its lands. Courtesy of 8118WHIstortical Preservation. wooden predecessor collapsed. A nature 10. City Marina. Harbor of refuge and home trail follows the ravine under the bridge. port for many Lake Superior boaters. Old Bayfield County Courthouse (Site 6). 24 25 Bayf leld History Tour aft- Small -Boat Ramp Bike Route from Marina Red Cliff . .................... 13 Bike Route to 0 4. Washburn NONE E I 08 10 Chequamegon 90 11 Bay 13 0 500 1690 25?0 SCALE IN FEET WASHBURN HISTORY TOUR. Historical Profile Washburn is the youngest of the three Chequamegon Bay cities. By 1883, Ashland and Bayfield were already thriving villages; Bayfield was the major shipping. port of the Chequamegon region, and the village of Ashland was consider- Ing further rail and harbor improvements. Washburn was created as a speculative venture. Its founders never made any pretensions about the city being a summer resort. When Washburn X was laid out, it was for business purposes only. With adequate frontage and deep water access, the Chicago, St. Paul, Minneapolis, and Omaha Railway cleared the site for the village in 1883. It was to be the company's principal lake port. Washburn never really experienced a spiraling boom. Rather, it grew very steadily and very 40 rapidly. By 1891, the town shipped 2-1/2 million awwou bushels of grain and 52 million board feet of lumbe r annually. In the seven short years since it was first platted, Washburn's population swelled Courtesy of State Historical Society of Wisconsin to almost triple the population of rival Bayfield. A.A. Bigelow and Company: one of the three large sawmills in Washburn (1891 or earlier). However, the lumber boom eventually came to an end in Washburn, in Bayfield, and in Ashland. Brownstone quarrying also declined as it could not compete with less expensive limestone and the invention of the steel girder. And Washburn did not ship iron ore like Ashland or Superior. As a result, Washburn and its sister cities declined for many years until they were rediscovered as ideal spots to visit. 26 27 Continue northward on Washington Avenue, climbing the hill. You will pass Carnegie Library (Site 3), a church on your right, the Apostle's Lodge, to your left, and finally the Catholic Church (Site 4) at 7th Street. Turn right at the church and continue to the yield sign. You,are passing by the back of the brownstone Bayfield County Courthouse (Site 5). Turn right, go one IN block, and turn right again to see the front of the courthouse. Continue on 5th Street East, pass the historic St. Courtesy of SH13WHIstorical Preservation John's Evangelical Lutheran Church, and turn left onto Central Avenue. This street is the intersec- Washburn State Bank (Site 6). tion just BEFORE the stop sign. A very small, triangular "block" should be across the intersec- tion to your right. Take Central Avenue all the way down to the stop sign. This is STH 13. Notice the Washburn State Tour Description and Sites were apparently man-made to protect Bank (Site 6) and the Times Building (Site 7) schooners in the harbor. The park boasts across the street. Washburn does not have all of its intersections the first well in Wash burn--originally used Turn left on STH 13. Continue for three blocks. marked, so the two-mile tour will be described as a horse-watering station for the mill. You'll pass the Chequamegon National Forest through its landmarks. Continue along the shoreline until you reach the Ranger Station (Site 8) and the State DNR Whether you enter Washburn from the north or boat ramp. Head back up toward town and turn Ranger Station (Site 9). Both have information the south, the tour starts at the west end or right the first chance you get. When this lake view on the public forests throughout .Bayfield C Iounty. Thompson's Park (Site 1). road curves left, follow it up to STH 13. Turn right just before the "45 MPH" sign. Follow 1. Thompson's Park. The park is on the site 2. City_Hall. This is the dark-colored building the curve to the railroad tracks. Cross the tracks of one of the old sawmills which made across the intersection to the left. Check in and turn left. Washburn's second lakeside park Washburn famous. Notice the pier pilings here to see if the information center has and camping area, Memorial Park (Site 10), will ka, A&, still remaining. Some of the islands you see been completed. be on your right. Both parks have showers. Washburn- History Tour Bike Rou f om r Bayfield 401 A Campsite 80 Small Boat Ramp DE] Boat Dockage 0 07 D U 0 r"e 0 /7 7 Y 0 500 1500 25,00 Bike Rou SCALE IN FEET to w w w te Ashland 13 ,28@ 29 ASHLAND HISTORY TOUR Historical Snapshot-Redlscovering Ashland Excerpts from The Wisconsin Islands, by John B. Chapple. Published by the Ashland Daily Press (1945). Reprinted In Apostle Islands A Area Sourcebook, available at National Lakeshore station in Bayfield. "There were plenty of weed beds, and near the head of the bay plenty of rushes, and as we AI approached every now and then a couple of ducks would rise startled and go racing by overhead. . . "Finally after short-cutting through. . . we came up on quite a spacious bay. Part of the shoreline X14 ivas sand beach, and we looked onto the north beyond a clump of bushes, figuring maybe that's where Whittlesey Creek comes out. . . 71 "By this time we could see the little ripples where the creek hit the bay and . . . the water sudden- ly turned ice cold and we knew it was WhIttlesey. V MA 'Do you know, kids, this Is what Asaph Whit- .. Itz tiesey did just 91 years ago?' we exclaimed. 71 'Who's he?' they asked, 'the guy they named the creek after?' 'Yes, and the guy that discovered Ashlandl' we answered. 'You're exploring now just the way he did then, and it looks the same as It did then, too, for this part of the country hasn't changed a bitl' Courtesy of ftt* Historical $ocllsty of W1 'This fellow Whittlesey left LaPointe on Made- The Chequamegon Hotel In Ashland. Built by the Wisconsin Central Railroad in 1877, the line Island In a rowboat looking for a place on the building was razed In the 1890's after it was declared a fire trap. mainland for a settlement. You know that the village of LaPointe is hundreds of years older than Ashland. 'And you know Ashland wasn't always called Ashland. Its first name was Whittlesey ... It was five years before they changed the name to Ashland. 'Just 55 years "ago, when I was 11, 1 explored' do. But there's a lot of satisfaction in living over railroad tracks, cross 6th Street and the Beaser Whittlesey Creek from the bay just as you did again some of the things they did, and In realizing School (Site, 1) will be on your left. Continue to today,' he told us. 'And I remember, too, the that here, on Chequamegan Bay, we are at the the next four-way intersection, turn left (8th water that seemed as hot as coffee after we came very center of history In this part of the Street), and pass the Stenman House (Site 2). back to the bayl' continent. . F Continue on 8th Street for six blocks to the 'Klein " 'But Whittlesey did something that you've never House (Site 3). Turn left onto 7th Avenue West done,' he challenged us. 'He walked from Ash- Tour Description and pass through an historic residential area. land to Madison on snowshoesl' Two blocks further, at 7th Avenue West and 6th The Ashland tour begins at the intersection of Street, you will pass the Trinity Treatment Center 'Dam It afl, he did. There are some things those Front Street (US 2, 63 and STH 13) and Beaser (Site 4) and the Queen Anne Style home (Site rough and tough oldtimers did that we can never Avenue. Go three blocks on Beaser, cross the 5). Cross the railroad tracks and turn right onto 3rd Street. Third Street and 2nd Street are fine examples of a downtown historic c ornmercial area (Site Take 3rd Street past the Soo Line Depot (Site 6), past Ellis Avenue and two blocks further to 3rd Avenue East (funeral home on far left corner). Go one block north to 2nd Street and turn left to view the commercial structures there. Turn right onto@ 7th Avenue West just past the Post Office and then turn right onto Front Street. Take your time, study the waterfront, enjoy the park (Site 8), St. Agnes Church (Site 9)', Holy w Family Church (Site 10), the Soo Line locomo- N, A tive (Site 11) , and the old ore docks (Site 12). Turn right onto Stuntz Avenue just before the railroad viaduct. two blocks later you are at the Ellis School and Fire Station (Site 13). IL Sites 1. Beaser School (1899). East side of Beaser Avenue. Cream brick, three story, t High-Victorian style of architecture with octagonal belfry designed by H. AT-11 Wildhagen. 2. Keith S. Stenman House. 800 Beaser Avenue. Clapboard home with rectangular tower. 3. Arthur E. Klein House. 723 7th Avenue West. 2-1/2 stories with octagonal tower. Courtesy of state Iffstorlost Bodety of WisconsIn Queen Anne and Shingle style influences in Old Masonic Temple (Site- 7). the architecture. .30 31 4. Trinity Treatment Center. 522 7th Avenue West. Georgian Revival Style architecture with stone frills. 5. 523 7th Avenue West. Queen Anne style home. 6. Soo Line Depot. 3rd Avenue West at 4th Street. Interesting rockfaced brownstone with pyramid tower. 7. 3rd Street and 2nd Street Historic Area. Many brownstone and dark brick struc- Look for these interesting com- tures. mercial and institutional structures: On 3rd Street: Bloomquist Apartments, 504 3rd Street. First Presbyterian Church (1897), 3rd at Vaughn. St. Andrews Church (1904). United Methodist Church. On 2nd Street: Old G.W. Peck Store (1890), 311 E. 0 2nd. air Old First National Bank, 2nd at Ellis. Courtesy of SHM-1119forloal Presarvallon Union National Bank, 2nd at Ellis. Burlington Northern Ore Docks (Site 12). Ashland County Courthouse (1915), 2nd Street at 2nd Avenue West. Willmar Building, across from court- house. Iverson Agency or Old Security Bank (1889), next to Wilmar Building. Old Masonic Temple, now drug store The last remaining remnant of the golden Bristol Block (1890's), 2nd Street at (1895). days of ore shipping In Ashland. All other 3rd Avenue West. Old U.S. Post Office (1892-93), 2nd docks have been removed, but the Northern State Bank (1933). Street at 6th Avenue West. Burlington Northern dock Is steel and con- crete and will be around for a long time. Old Pabst Building or Sewing Machine 8. Memorial Park. Front Street across from Ashland stopped shipping when the rich Company,, 2nd Street at 4th Avenue courthouse. Artifacts and markers. Also Gogebic ores were depleted. Now enriched West. view of Ashland's now dormant waterfront. ores, or taconites, are being shipped from' Old Vaughn Block or Music Center, 9. St. Agnes Catholic Church (1886). Front Michigan's Upper Peninsula mines to Es- 415 2nd Avenue West. Street at 2nd Avenue East. Famous brown- canaba instead of Ashland. Vaughn Library (1890's), 2nd Street stone. 13. Ellis School and Fire Station. Stuntz at Vaughn. 10. Holy Family Church. Avenue. The school, built in 1900, is the Old Pabst, now Army-Navy. 11. Soo Line Locomotive. work of architect H. Wildhagen, who also Old Bardon's Building (1884). 12. Burlington Northern Ore Docks (1917). designed the Beaser School. Ashland History Tour r4e,f u0m efo,7 30Y Boat Dockage 2 13 Bike Route fr m Was burn 10 1:1 El 11 1:1 11 E Im Ej 1 1 J*4 Oro 0 a 0 0 Ila j I L L i LjU Ll I -j I 1w 1*2 *Bike Route Mellen Bike Route to'. CF D[D[=CD@c to and Odanah Copper Falls D 1:1 17 1:1 Ll E 11 Cl I E F Ll 0 0 SCALE M FEET .32. 33 MONTREAL AND HURLEY "Families which had relatives in other parts of the sleep and cook whatever food they were able to HISTORY TOUR country moved out to share with them whatever scrounge off the farms nearby. Chickens, pigs, shelter and means they had. Young men, un- and even cattle disappeared at night to find their attached, drifted from town to town, seeking way into the tin stew-pots of the jungles. Farmers work at a few cents a day or for just sustenance. guarded their livestock and gardens with Historical Snapshot: The Panic of 'Jungles' began to spring up in the surrounding shotguns. 1893 woods and along streams where men gathered to Excerpts from Hurley-Still No Angel, by Lewis % C. Reimann, Northwoods Publisher (1954). 7, Y '7t was during the panic of 1893 that Hurley had its roughest time financially. Over ten thousand men were employed in the iron mines of the 4 Gogebic Range of Upper Michigan and the Iron Range of northern Wisconsin. . . t "The Wall Street market crash struck the i ron and the lumber industries in these areas like a as lethal blow an the head of an ox, and just unexpectedly. Credit stopped. Mines and lumber camps and mills closed as the demand for steel and lumber stopped. Building of any kind was at a complete standstill the country over. Business- es of all types stopped dead still. Workmen were laid off by the hundreds, then by thousands. . . "Idle miners from the surrounding area and lumberjacks from the closed camps flocked to town and stood dumbly on the streets, waiting for the next blow to fall or for some news that the reports from the big cities were not true... "The conditions in Hurley were especially bad. The country was new. Two devastating fires had burned most of the business blocks and homes a short time previously. The swank Burton House, the Presbyterian and the Catholic churches, a livery stable and the two railroad stations were the only large structures saved. People lived in whatever shelter they could find, in tents, school -buildings and the few dwellings left from the conflagration. Destitution and despair hung like a pall over the little community in the rough sur- Courtesy of State Historical Society of Wisconsin roundings. Early Iron Range Miners. Tour Description and Sites At that time, it was the deepest iron mine in the Mary's Church (Site 2) will be on your left. Look world (4,335 vertical feet). for historic residential structures on your right. After breezing through Iron Belt and Pence on Just before the West Branch of the Montreal Just down the hill on the corner of 5th and STH 77, you'll enter Montreal and begin the short River and next to the ball park, there are some Copper is the site of the famous Burton House tour of Wisconsin's iron mining heritage. artifacts and an historical marker. The town of Hotel (Site 1). The "hotel with a thousand The Montreal Mining Company built Montreal Giles, just upriver, was the lumbering center of windows" was built in 1886, was four stories Most of the homes along the highway are similar' the area. Clear-cutting ended about 1915 in Iron high, and had 92 guest rooms, a ballroom, dining ly designed and all were painted white, thus the County, and there is little remaining today to room, bar, cafe, gambling rooms, and a nickname "White City@." suggest Giles' past. clubroom. Catering to the elite, the hotel gained a Continue on STH 77 into Hurley.. You'll pass the reputation as the finest hotel north of Milwaukee. Mining company headquarters were south of the Cary Mine site, again to the south of the road. By 1930 the hotel became dilapidated, and in highway. If you investigate some of the roads, There are many more waste piles to remind us of 1947 it burned to the ground. you may come upon the Hamilton Club, the Mon- -the source of steel. The Old Iron County Courthouse (Site 3) is treal Lodge, other mining-related buildings, and further down Iron Street. The castle-like structure many tailings piles. The Montreal mine closed in After the junction with CTH C, you'll enter Hurley was built in 1893 and served as the courthouse 1962 after producing some 46 million tons of ore. proper. Angle to the right on Iron Street. St. until mid-1975. The County Historical Society has plans to open a museum in this interesting build- ing. A core (Site 4) showing a sample of iron ore from the Cary Mine is located up 4th Street from the Old Courthouse. Take 3rd Street one block downhill from the Old @Vl Courthouse to Copper Street. Turn right on Cop- per and left on list Street. Go one block to the corner of Ist and Silver Streets (Site 5). Silver Li Street is where legends were born and where Hurley's reputation was made. Whatever connotations "Hurley" gives to you, the ap JJ F'rl pearance of Silver Street. today will undoubted- ly dash your expectations. Early burly Hurley, during the boom days of the late 19th century, was a typical frontier town full of gambling, drink- Ing, and other vices. Somehow, Hurley's pioneer- JU V11, Ing tradition continued and even prospered long after the lumberjacks left. and other northern towns became civilized. Still, most of Hurley's citizens point out that they did not frequent their famous -saloons. They were. there for busi- neg r outsiders. Continue northward on 1st Street, curve under the railroad viaducts, and swing left onto MapI& Courtesy of State Historical Society of Wisconsin Street. Take Maple to 9th Avenue and enjoy The Montreal Iron Mine during its busier days. Riccelli Park (Site 6). 34 35 F 1% 51. Hurley History Tour 4f 0 "7 JL UE] c r Y, 0 F R 0 N W 0 0 D E am 0 N N C H 6 A N M@ 0 N 77, Sr Bike Route from Montreal 0 Soo 1500 2500 SC ALE IN FEET GENERAL TERRAIN AND CTH Z: Take Z east a short distance to the STH 13 intersects CTH K about 13 TRAFFIC ALONG THE TRAIL US 2 overpass. Here CTH Z ends and miles east of Cornucopia. Turn left STH 13 goes straight ahead. onto K. STH 13: Take 13 all the way to the Bayfield CTH K: K turns east about halfway to Little The Northland is not the ordinary biker's Peninsula. Pass over the Brule River Sand Bay. The Apostle Islands Na- paradise. The Bayfield Peninsula and the Pe- and go through Port Wing (37 miles tional Lakeshore sign will direct you nokee Hills in Iron County are rugged, to say the from Superior), Herbster (7 miles to Little Sand Bay from here. Five least. Mile-long hills are not uncommon. Get in farther), and Cornucopia (8 miles miles from STH 13. shape and remember that an easy ride downhill farther) . follows the long climb. The roads on the trail are generally well- urface k @N However, there are short stretches of hard- packed gravel. The back streets of Madeline Is- land, Washburn, Ashland, and the road to Saxon Harbor are all less than perfect. Traffic along the route is very light by metro- N politan standards. Most of the roads have low, soft shoulders, or no shoulders at all. Also-be aware that Northland cars travel at 70 mph. Be especially careful to check behind as the hills and turns will hide you from overtaking traffic. Al- though car traffic is not exceptionally belligerent, do not foolishly demand your rights to the roadway. Two heavily-traveled segments of road are nearl y unavoidable. The first is the divided highway area just west of Ashland (US 2, STH 13). The shoulder looks wide and hard. The second danger area along the trail is STH 13 ta I 1@ from Bayfleld to Washburn. The curvy, hilly F,,Z 77 ,,f,51, stretch from Pike's Creek to the Sioux River is especially dangerous. There is a steady stream of trucks and cars and not much of a shoulder for escape. STH 13 FROM BAYFIELD TO WASHBURN IS NOT RECOMMENDED. TRAIL DESCRIPTION AND CUES Superior to Little Sand Bay (68 miles) CTH E: Follow E out of Superior to CTH Z. Courtesy of Sea Grant College Program, University of Wisconsin Turn left onto Z. Apostle Islands Scenery. 36 37 Little Und Say to Bayfield (12 miles) CTH K: Take K east from Little Sand Bay 2", Road and follow its meandering path back'to STH 13. Turn left onto 13. .. ..... ... STH 13: Take 13 into Red Cliff, about 8 miles from Little Sand Bay. Bayfield is 3 `@JPW v" miles further. Bayfield to Washburn (26 miles) @@j ReP CTH 1: Go up Washington Avenue from Bayfield Harbor until it. curves into Cemetery Road. Follow Cemetery Road until it becomes CTH 1. Take CTH I to CTH J. CTH J: Continue west on CTH J for one mile. Here J curves south. Take the curve and continue for 2-1/2 miles. Here J A turns left toward the lake. Turn right onto the Star Route. Star This road goes up and down for 10 Route: miles. Deteriorates into gravel and "Ry dirt for last mile. Finally dead-ends at CTH C. Turn left onto C. CTH C: Take C into Washburn, some 14 miles Courtesy of Harry PurInton away. Alternate Route: HEAVILY TRAVELED STH 13 (10 miles). NOT RECOMMENDED. Cherryville Road: Take this road 3/4 mile east- CTH C: Take CTH C all the way into Mellen, ward to STH 13. about 18 miles down the road. Washburn to Ashland (9 miles) STH 13: Turn right onto 13 and follow it into Mellon to Weber Lake (34 or 16 miles) Long Lake Road: Take STH 13 to southern city Ashland. STH 169: Take STH 169 northeast from Mellen. limits. Turn up Long Lake Road and Pass the entrance to Copper Falls continue for 2 miles until the inter- State Park. Continue to the end of section with Ondossagon Road. Ashland to Mellon (28 miles) STH 169 at Its junction with US 2, Turn south onto Ondossagon. STH 112: Take STH 112 south from Ashland for some 16 miles away. Ondossagon Road: Continue on Ondossagon for 8 miles until It meets CTH E. Here Cross US 2 and take the road 4 miles to Cherryville Road. That's STH 112 turns left (east). Go straight through the trailer park (Saxon the first 3-way Intersection after the on CTH E. Harbor Road) to Saxon Harbor, 6 Ondossagon School, just past a nar- miles away. row, small bridge and just before CTH E: Take E for 2 miles through Sanborn CTH A: Take CTH A from Saxon Harbor for residential homes. Turn left onto to CTH C. Go straight on CTH C 1-1/2 miles to STH 122. Turn right on Cherryville Road. Instead of turning left with CTH E. 122. STH 122t Take 122 all the way to CTH E, some 7. Herbster Park, Herbster (20 campsites),. Coastal History Trail, consult the Chequamegon 12 miles away. You'll pass back a- 8. Cornucopia, Cornucopia (7 campsites). National Forest Map (U.S. Forest Service, cross US 2, pass through Saxon, and 9. Little Sand Say. A.I.N.L. campsites under Washburn Ranger Station). climb the Penokee Hills. Turn left development. For further information on State Parks and onto CTH E to reach Weber Lake. 10. Raspberry Bay, Red Cliff Reservation. Forests and most private campgrounds, contact More Information Is available from the Arts Alternate Route: Take STH 77 to Upson (12 and Crafts Center, Red Cliff. the State Division of Tourism, Camping and miles). Then take STH 122 north and CTH E 11. Dalrymple, Chamber of Commerce, Tourist Information, Box 177, Madison, Wisconsin east (4 miles). Bayfield. Off STH 13 north of Bayfleld (20 53701. Ask for Woodall's Trailering Parks and Weber Lake to Hurley (10 miles) campsites). Campgrounds and county tourist maps. 12. Big Bay State Park, DNR Ranger Station, CTH E: Take CTH E for 4 miles to STH 77, Washburn. On southeast point of Madeline CONNECTORS TO THE LAKE just before Iron Belt. Continue east- Island (18 campsites). SUPERIOR TRAIL ward on STH 77, 13. Apostle Islands State Forest, DNR Ranger STH 77: Take 77 in .to. the commercial area of Station, Washburn. Primitive sites on At shown on'the large fold-out map, there are Hurley, 7 miles away. Pass through Stockton Island (8 campsites). three main connectors to -the Lake Superior iron Belt, Pence, Montreal, and most 14. Mimorsel P. rik, Park Attendant, Washburn Coastal History Trail. The Duluth connector, feeds of Hurley. (35 campsites). from'Ahe west, the. North-Sou'th Bikewdy from the West End.Paik (Thompson's), Park At- south, and the Hurley-Marinette Connector from tendant, Washburn. the east. Big Rock Count]f Park, County Clerk, CAMPSITES Duluth .-Connector. 'Washburn. Off CTH C north of Washburn Numbers preceding the campsite d 'escripti,on,cor- (8 campsites). Since the High Bridge is not suitable for bicycle respond to campsite numbers..on the Lake 16. Bllrcfi@ Grove Campground, U.S.' Forest traffic, the Arrowhead Bridge (US 29 Wisconsin Superior Coastal History Trail Map. .. I Service',' 'Washburn. In Chequamegdn Na- STH 13) is the suggested bike route connector tionall Forest west of Washburn. More in- from Duluth to Superior. The Arrowhead Bridge 1. Nernedli Trailer Park. 3132 E. Sth Street,. formation available from the U.S. Forest crosses the St. Louis River and becomes Belknap Superior (25 campsites). Service Ranger Station, Washburn. Street in Superior. Belknap eventually intersects 2. Pittison State Park, Rt. 2, Box 435, 16. Prentice Park, west of Ashland on US 2, Tower Avenue about 6 blocks north of the start- Superior. Take CTH A south from Superior STH 13. More Information available from Ing point for the "Superior Histoty Tour". - to CTH, B (80 campsites). Ashland City Hall. 3. Amnicon Falls State Park, Box 80, Brule. 17. Copper Falls State Park, Box 697, Mellen North-Sduth Bikeway Take CTH U south from STH 13 (40 camp- sites). (34 campsites). This 325-mile route connects the Bayfield Penin- 18. Potato River Falls, Parks Committee, sula to north central and west central Wisconsin. 4. Bolls-Brulle Cam -pg'round, Box 80, Brule. In Hurley. At Gurney, off STH 169 (8 camp- Scheduled to open officially in 1976 1, the North- Brule River S 'tate Forest. Take CTH H sites). South Bikeway will eventually be marked from south from STH 13 to US 2, then STH 27 .south to Winnebijou (37 campsites). 19. Saxon Harbor, Park Committee, Hurley. At. LaCrosse to Bayfleld. The Bikeway is an extreme- 5. Copper Range Campground, Box 80, Saxon Harbor _@6 campsites). ly beautiful trail which makes good use of scenic Brule. In Brule River State Forest. Take H 20. Morgan's Campground, private owner- county trunks, the Tuscobia-Park Falls State south from STH 13 (17 campsites). ship, 3 miles southwest of Hurley, off CTH Trail, and federal roads in the Chequarnegon 6. Twin Falls Park, Town Board, Port Wing. C (20 campsites). National Forest. On STH 13 at the junction with CTH A (3 21. Schomberg County Park, Park Commit- Present plans indicate that the Bikeway will campsites). tee, Hurley. Off US 51 south of Hurley (6 bypass the dangers of STH 13 from Ashland to Lake Park, Town Board, Port Wing. Near campsites). Bayfield by taking an inland route through the the harbor (13 campsites). For additional campsites near the Lake Superior Chequarnegon National Forest. However, that @3.8 39 route presently has clay and gravel stretches and, CTH N: East to Sayner, STH 155 CTH G: Southeast to STH 180 for the time, being, the Lake Superior Coastal STH 155: South to St. Germain, STH 70 STH 180: HEAVY TRAFFIC into Marinette along History Trail is probably the best route between STH 70: East to CTH 0 and south into.Oneida the Menominee River the two Chequarnegon Bay cities. More detailed County information-on the Bikeway will soon be available from the State Division of Tourism, Camping and Oneida County Tourist Information, Box 177,.Madison,..Wisconsin FOR HIKERS ONLY 53701, or from Mr. Ellef Ellefson, Box G, West CTH 0:' South'to CTH D Salem, Wisconsin 54669. CTH D: CTH D runs east, then curves south Several years ago, a national system of hiking Hurley-Marinette Connector to STH 17, north of Sugar Camp trails was proposed. The North Country Hiking STH 17: South for a short ways to CTH A, 'fi Trail eventually will run from Vermont to Nort Currently no more than a possible route, this south, of Sugar Camp Dakota. In northwestern Wisconsin, only two seg- connector would link Lake Michigan-, and CTH A: East to Three Lakes, then take US 45 ments of', the trail are completed-Iron County northeastern Wisconsin to Lake Superior and to US 32 and the Chequamdgon National Forest. northwestern Wisconsin. It will be described here US 45: H'EAVILY'TRAVELED, but short dis- with the warning that it has not been traveled or tance east,to STH 32 The Iron County Trail Was opened with much marked. STH 32: Southeast into Forest County fanfare in 1967. Since then, the trail has been % I used by and maintained for snowmobiles. No rest Iron County Forest County areas or camping facilities have been developed. Very generally,. it runs from a farm northwest of CTH C: South from Hurley, then . east to US STH 32:' Southeast to Pine Lake, CTH S Montreal to the county line northeast of Mellen. 51. CTH S: South to US 8, just west of Crandon For more information on this hiking option write: US. 51: VERY HEAVILY TRAVELED. No al- US 8:' HEAVILY TRAVELED, but short dis- North Country Trail, Iron County Courthouse, ternative. Take it south to CTH G. tance east to Crandon, CTH W_ Hurley, Wisconsin 54534. dTH G: East to CTH H CTH W: Southeast to Wabeno, CTH C The.Chequamegon Trail is well maintained with CTH H: South toward Mercer to CTH J CTH C: East to Marinette County primitive campsites and rest areas along the way. CTH J: East to Vilas County Marinette County Like its counterpart in Iron County, the Vilas County Chequamegon Trail wanders through beautiful CTH C: All the' way to CTH A, just south of forested wilderness. For More information con- CTH J: To CTH K north of Rest Lake Athelstane tact: U.S. Forest: Service, Chequarnegon National CTH K: East to Boulder Junction, CTH M CTH A: South, then east to Crivitz, CTH W Forest. Ringer stations in Washburn, Park Falls, CTH M: South to CTH N CTH W: East to CTH G Hayward, or Glidden. ,0 0 '0 .............ii"97' too Water Trails f Q' r Beaters CAI.,'LTOi@iPEAK;@;) Y. Z/ 971 44 92 k@ 94 g Sig 71 97 `8 A 103 Q4 NOT FOR USE 14 MAGNETIC, VARIATICIN 1 2'00 19 ,IN NAVIGATION 11) IT 56-- 56 1 3 125 107 105 147 102 108 62 Z I , - -Jk 3 76 80 Bay Hb'157 X" R8n304kH. og - @j to 0- 68 ASAND 3@ LT HO 19 86 38 0"/ 7, "7,-, 84 110 Little T_ -z 61 159 30 00 51 83 14 1 (,\", (12 'IS 34 156 - -- 1 00 1 10" /1" 96 64 6 90 8. 23 20 122 23 147 F" 114 7 64 31 1 D- 110 92 74 N 90 41 A 4,A H. POSTLE "108 I.LAY MAST. Si 7 128 70 &50V 3 -80 48 band I S L) 30 7 32 68 107 1-- 60 10 20'Q 2 1 Shoal KM e lRbv, OiIk 1 104 E.gl', 34 1 (SiGull 1 95 A 64 26 3 86' 0'_ 33 44 18 1(6 G.1 L@ 50 98 0 5 36 B p Red C pt- 47 -- 83 90 .,k 2 15 4 19 i,hig@ I Lt',@ 9 ,6 ,3, 25 7 69 30 Hubste, R RELAY 61 13 80 28 DULU -A, 51 18 12 2 20, Po,,it Wing c G Mi12 18 n 6 kHz 21 a, iam - " i@,x 4, pt c AE 0 6 a-lo Pt. 6 64 .9 Sig 7 Sig 25 1 6 g l,land ER10 H-ghto 43 14 R8n 316 kHz -h q-..g.. Pt @lack Ri- Hb MASTS '14 7 16 24 VVE19C) 560 kH, "goa 1@1 0ditimi 10 Qy n LAND R T S, a- AERCO Ri- 40 41 LAKE SUPERIOR MARINE HISTORY Always hugging the shoreline for safety, the first white men on Lake Superior traveled westward all the way from Quebec. Without the benefits of sail or motor, they paddled their canoes into the waters of thecoldest, deepest, cruelest, yet most Voyageur- Fur Trading beautiful of the Great Lakes. Water Routes Still using only the canoe, a frail vessel at best, the French developed a profitable fur trade a 0 centered on Chequamegon Bay. Explorers like Daniel Greysolon, Sieur DuLuth rediscovered old Lake co e Indian water routes and opened up the treasures Superior of the interior for the traders. Of all these famous water roads-the St. Louis, the Brule-St. Croix, La ointe Lake the White-Namekagon, the Bad-Chippewa, and Superior the Flambeau-the mighty Brule was the most ch ... -go' direct and the most heavily traveled (see map). A modern explorer describes this era of the Northwest: Jn the golden period of the voyageurs-from 1700 to 1850-the large canoe was the mode of %@% travel on the Great Lakes. While the canoe originated with the Algonquin tribes to the east,@ the Chippewa became the specialists in creating the birch bark canoe. They were the people of the birch tree country, and it was they who fashioned the curves and proportions that made it a thing of graceful beauty and of service. In the opening of the West, we tend to think more often of the covered wagon than the canoe, but it was the canoe which opened up the Great Lakes Water Route region. . . . Overland Portage ---- There were four principal types of canoes used in the Great Lakes region. The largest was the great Montreal canoe or 'canot du maitre' which was thirty to forty-five feet long and usually had a crew of eight to fourteen. It could carry four or five tons of furs and supplies. Next was the North Canoe or 'canot du nord'.. . It averaged twenty- five feet in length and carried a crew of five to eight Next was the bastard or 'le batard' which Hundreds, even thousands of voyageur canoes, If you are similarly equipped, you will face the had a crew of three or four . . . The smallest was gaff-rigged schooners, propeller steamers, and same difficulties, experience the same sensa- the Indian canoe usually twelve to fifteen modern carriers have become victims of the tions, and think some of the same thoughts as feet-that was used by the solitary Indian trap- lake's unimaginable power. the explorers of history.- Certainly,. you, will feel per. " ("Log of a 350 mile canoe trip from the same sense of accomplishment and relief LaPointe . . . to St. Paul. Robert E. Mat- Until very recently, proper navigation, the key to after completion of the voyage. teson, 1974). safe passage, had to be learned from years of experience., A famous captain of the late 1800's And, except for occasional reminders of modern By 1825, the small Mackinac boat-displaced the wrote: civilization, the 'rivers of the' north are much the canoe as the workboat of the fur trade. Designed same as they were hundreds of years ago. The "I learned pilotage of lakes and rivers and be- to sail whenever possible, this barge-like vessel came expert very early in heaving the sounding Brule, the gad, the White, and the upper reaches ushered In the great age of sail. lead . . . The only reliable map was one made by of the Chippe wa, St. Croix, and Flambeau are as wild and natural as any rivers you will find in A few larger schooners began to appear on the Lieut. Bayfield, which had very few soundings, Wisconsin. waters of the great lake. Prior to the opening of and even so It was hard to get copies f I. Ali the o it the Soo Locks In 1855, these ships were built time I sailed the lakes, I never had a chart in my These history trails also have one beautiful exclusively for Lake Superior hauls. The earliest hands. (Lake Superior, G.L. Nute, 1944) reminder of their colorful past. A three-petaled, was built In 1735 by Louis Denis, Sleur de la Even today, with Improved navigational aids, Yellow iris graces the banks of the early voyageur Ronde, for some copper mining ventures on the Lake Superior poses a threat to seaman and routes. Blooming in early summer, this flower is south shore. A hundred years later, schooners novice alike. Let the sailor beware: not native to the Northwest and, apparently, was with romantic names like "Siskawit, " first planted by the voyageurs themselves. This "Chippewa," "Swallow," and 'Napoleon" visited "Weather can build up in secret out on the broad fieur de fis is literally a Illy flower and was the ports all over the lake. surface of the lake and come thundering down on heraldic symbol of New France. the shores, undetected, often unsuspected until it Ton years after the completion of the Soo Locks, strikes. Fogs so thick you can lean on them are Whatever old Northwestern trail you choose to sailing ships reached their golden age. In 1868, sometimes generated by the combination of a travel, bear In mind, that the great fur trading over 1800 sailing vessels were registered on Lake rare hot summer day and the permanently chilled canoe was . a much more seaworthy vessel. Superior waters. But the opening of the Soo soon water. The Great Lakes Pilot is speckled with TODAY's 17-FOOT ALUMINUM VERSION HAS brought the end of the romantic sailing ship. The warnings of magnetic deviations caused by vari- NO RIGHT VENTURING OUT INTO LAKE more economical steamboat, long popular on the ous masses of Iron ore. . . the timeworn adage SUPERIOR. Be content with inland streams and lower lakes, was now able to make long interlake about trusting your compass no matter what coastal backwaters. hauls. does not always apply on Superior." (Lakeland The first "propeller" appeared' in 1841. Using Boating's Cruise Planning Guide, 1974) As a final note for the canoeing novice, REALIZE wood for fuel, these early steamers required THAT WILD RIVERS CAN HAVE HIDDEN "wooding stops" at regular intervals. Gradually, DANGERS. Many canoes have come upon coal replaced wood as the fuel for steam boilers. HISTORIC CANOE TRAILS unexpected rapids and capsized. Even the most Then, in the 1880's, the first steel-hulled bulk "To recapture the spirit of any era, you must experienced canoeist thoroughly studies a stream carrier slipped off its launching skids to begin the follow the old trails, gathering from the before leaving shore. Learn the right way to ca- modern age of Great Lakes shipping. earth itself the feelings and challenges of noe and pick up a guidebook that describes and those who trod them long ago. " (Wilder- rates the rivers and their hazards. Excellent Throughout the years, Lake Superior has been ness Days, Sigurd Olson) guidebooks are readily available at bookstores or known as the most treacherous of the Great sporting goods stores. Look for one of these: Lakes. Every experienced seaman has come to Canoe enthusiasts have a unique opportunity to respect the mysterious and awesome powers of retrace historic voyageur-fur trader routes in the Canoe Trails of North-Central Wisconsin, Wiscon- an angry Lake Superior. The story of this great manner they were originally traveled. Of all the sin Trails Magazine. $4.75. lake is perhaps most vividly told through the ways to study the past, this is probably the most Whitewater, Quietwater, Bob and Judy Polzer, tragic accounts of shipwreck and marine disaster. exciting. Evergreen Paddleways. $7.95. 42 4.3@ SIVIALLL BOAT POSSIBILITIES Trailerable boats have some advantages over c oes and the larger cruising boats First of all, an they are generally more seaworthy than the ca- noe. Weather- permitting, short jaunts can be taken to enjoy the fishing and scenery of the n south shore. Many of the pote tial dangers of the lake can be avoided by good judgment and t. trallering fromone spot to the next. 21, @44U 7@ @V _FI_4 Second, many of the shallow bays and sloughs, 4 _r@ 5. _FVI@_t,@,Q not easily accessible to larger cruising yachts, are accessible to the smaller, shallow-draft boats. Though largely recreational, small boat touring can have an historical twist. After enjoying the 'M history of a lakeshore site, you can launch and tour the lakeshore. The historic and scenic Apostles and the City of,Superior would be excel lent spots for such activity. P, 41t, _'X . ........ Information Sources: 1) Land-based historic M and scenic sites-Refer back to "Scenic and Historic Sites" and "Local History Tours" for sites accessible by land vehicle. Refer ahead to "Water-Accessible Scenic and Historic Sites" 44 for an outline of places to see from the water. 2) -refer ahead Boater suggestions and information to next section, "Cruising the Historic South Courtesy of State Historical Society of Wisconsin Shore'.'. 3) Launching sites-County maps are This photo of canoes on Lake Superior was taken from an engraving dated 1873. the best source. They are available from local tourist information centers or the State Division of Tourism, Box 177, Madison, Wisconsin 53701. Also, the Chequarnegon National Forest map points out all the ramps from Port Wing east to Saxon Harbor and Michigan's Upper Peninsula; CRUISING THE HISTORIC A A- SOUTH SHORE "'n 'N N V Flanked by rock cliffs, clay bluffs, and shallow sandy bays, the southern waters of Lake Superior A 1,1 A i, are not for the timid or the inexperienced sailor. Having only a few harbors of refuge, these waters V, "M IN are only for those who have the common sense to plan ahead and are always prepared for the full fury of an angry lake. N Yet, it is this remoteness that makes cruising the P south shore such a rich experience. This is the @5;k A area that inspired so much Indian myth and legend and was the scene for Longfellow's A "0 A A A "Hiawatha". Here are the historic waters that zrz lured the French voyageurs westward and that claimed wooden sailing ships and their rugged VA )m 'A' 2 crews. These are the shores that offer the most for modern water-borne explorers-the ultimate -a 0, in beauty, the richest historical lore, and the greatest challenge. This cruising section of Wisconsin Coastal His- tory Trails will not map out an itinerary. Boaters are too independent and too mobile for that sort of thing. Nor will it be a detailed, "tell all" cruis- ing guide. Good guidebooks are readily available at most larger marinas. Wisconsin Coastal History Trails only wants to suggest that an historical perspective will add tremendously to the pleasures of cruising. The many fascinating yarns and legends can best be appreciated by the sailor who has battled a Lake Superior storm and who has experienced the mystifying beauty of Its tranquil moments. Many historic and scenic sites, especially in the Apostle Islands-Chequamegon Bay area, are ac- cessible only by water. Here is the chance for the modern boating explorer to poke around for hints of the past. Tour the old lighthouses, search for the old brownstone quarries or fishing camps, and explore the fascinating rock formations of the Apostle Islands. Courtesy of Sea Grant College Program, University of Wisconsin 44 45 in addition to these "water only" sites, Apostle Islands (See "Apostle Islands Tour") Great Lakes Pilot. Detailed descrip- yachtsmen can enjoy the heritage of their ports of Old lighthouses, -rock formations, sand tions for the navigator on hazards call. The "old days" of Bayfield, LaPointe, Supe- beache -s, remote islands, Interesting wildlife and harbors. $8.00. rior, and the other coastal cities are near at hand and forests. Historic Madeline Island. Innumer- #9, Lake Superior, Entire lake for dince earliest growth was near the harbors. able possibilities. open-water navigation. $3.25. Cities, their harbors, and their Industrial water- fronts look entirely different from aboard a boat. Dockage In Bayfleld or at. Madeline Island. Fair #96, Little Girls Point to Silver Bay. Take the time to poke around and come to weather anchorage almost anywhere in the Includes all of Wisconsin's Lake understand the Importance of water travel In the Apostles. Superior coast. $3.25. settlement.of the old Northwest. Sayfleld (See "Bayfield History Tour") These are the ways to put an historical slant on Historic Bayfleld cannot be overlo Ioked. The #961, Apostle Islands. Detailed Apostle your south shore cruise. Get a book on the lore Apostle Islands Marina Is In the heart of the Islands area. $3.25. of the lakes. Then, when you actually cruise the historic section of town. shore, you can relive the glory days of Lake #964, Ashland and Washburn Harbors. Superior's ships, seaports, and seafarers. Washburn (See "Washburn History Tour") $3.25. Water-Accessible Historic and Scenic Dockage at old commercial pier. Close to Long #966, Duluth-Superior Harbor. $3.25. Sites Island and Chequarnegon Point. Ashland (See "Ashland History Tour") U.S. Coast Guard Light List, Volume IV, The Refer back to the Land Trails Chapter for a more Great Lakes. Navigational lights description, complete listing of sites on or near the shoreline. Tour the historic commercial area and the also RDF and fog signals. For sale by the Some sites will only be visible from the water remains of the former Industrial waterfront. Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Govt. whi le others may be visited. Explore the areas Marina at west end of town or dock at the city Printing Office, Washington, D.C. 20590. near the harbors of Superior, Port Wing, pier. $2.50. Cornucopia, Bayfield, Ashland, the Apostle Is- Saxon Harbor (See "Historic and Scenic Many excellent cruising guidebooks are readily lands, and Saxon Harbor. sites") available. They give hints for the navigators, do- City of Superior (See "Superior History Tour'l One of the two harbors of refuge from the scribe points of Interest, and detail harbor facili- St. Louis Bay, Grassy Point, Industria .I water- Apostle Islands to Ontonagon, Michigan. Last ties like dock space, fuel availability, and distance front, Fraser Shipyard, Connors Point, stop In Wisconsin before Pictured Rocks and to restaurants and stores. Barker's Island, Douglas County Historical the Keweenaw Peninsula. Great Lakes Cruising Club. Best guide Museum, Allouez Bay, Wisconsin Point. Navigation Charts and Cruising Guides available, but obtainable by mem- Best marinas In Duluth. Anchorage good near bership only. For more Information Barker's Island. There Is no reason for not obtaining a nautical write to the Great Lakes Cruising Port Wing (See "Historic and Scenic Sites") chart. They are available from marinas and Club, 185 N. Wabash, Chicago, Illk marine shops In Duluth, Cornucopia, Bayfleld, nois, 60601. First harbor of refuge east of Superior. and Ashland. They may also be obtained Lakeland Boating's Cruise Planning Herbster (See "Historic and Scenic Sites",) (prepaid) frorn: Distribution Service (C 44), Na- Guide To the Great Lakes (1974). tional Ocean Survey, Riverdale, Maryland 20840. Write to: Lakeland Boating, 412 Cranberry Slough-, Bark Point, Bark Bay, Sis- Get the right scale and amount of detail needed Longshore Drive, Ann Arbor, Michi- kiwit Point. for your purposes. gan 48107. $3.95. Cornucopia (See "Historic and Scenic Sites") Nautical Chart Catalogue 4, U.S. Great Yachtsmen's Guide to the Great Lakes. Siskiwit Bay, Squaw Bay Caves, Squaw Point, Lakes and adjacent -waterways. Tells Seaport Publishing Company. Look Squaw Bay. which charts you'll need. FREE. for a recent edition. @OCA& M ao m @A 7/Av/IV m 0 c 0 DATE DUE z co 0 m z i m z z rEl? 0 2 0 GAYLORD No. 2333 PRINTED IN U SA 3 6668 14106 3109