[Congressional Record Volume 165, Number 176 (Tuesday, November 5, 2019)]
[Senate]
[Pages S6386-S6387]
From the Congressional Record Online through the Government Publishing Office [www.gpo.gov]




                  RECOGNIZING VERMONT'S MAPLE INDUSTRY

  Mr. LEAHY. Madam President, Vermont sets the gold standard for the 
maple industry, and maple is integral to our State's economy and to our 
State's identity. The Vermont families and businesses that keep this 
sector vibrant and viable are also an essential part of the fabric of 
our State. I am proud to recognize one of those businesses today. 
Nestled along the western slopes of Vermont's highest peak, Mount 
Mansfield, Runamok Maple is one of the roughly 1500 sugar producers in 
Vermont that produce nearly half of the Nation's maple syrup. Owned and 
operated by Laura and Eric Sorkin, Runamok Maple exemplifies the 
innovation and entrepreneurship that is revitalizing communities across 
Vermont.
  Maple sugaring is a tradition carried forward and refined by each new 
generation of Vermonters. The Sorkins themselves benefited from the 
mentorship of nearby sugar producers before launching their own 
business a decade ago. In 2016, recognizing an opportunity, they pumped 
money and energy into a diversification effort that included a retail 
line of flavor-infused and barrel-aged syrups, all packaged and branded 
for the direct sales market. Two years later, I was proud to support 
funding for the Northern Border Regional Commission that in turn 
allowed Fairfax, VT, to expand wastewater infrastructure to Runamok's 
new manufacturing home, an old facility that once manufactured Scrabble 
game tiles. The improvements enabled Runamok's expansion from 45 to 100 
employees and revitalized a part of the historic town.
  Through their products, writings, and creativity, the Sorkins and 
their outstanding staff are not only producing world-class value-added 
products, they are changing how people think about maple syrup. Long 
gone are the days when it was considered a mere condiment for pancakes. 
I was not surprised, then, to see Runamok Maple featured in a recent 
Washington Post article about the many possibilities of Vermont's 
sweetest export.
  In recognition of the families across our State who continue to keep 
this bedrock Vermont sector thriving, I ask

[[Page S6387]]

unanimous consent to have that article printed in the Record.
  There being no objection, the material was ordered to be printed in 
the Record as follows:

               [From the Washington Post, Sept. 2, 2019]

Before You Pour All That Maple Syrup on Your Pancakes, Here's What You 
                          Should Know About It

                           (By Becky Krystal)

       It's fall, so you can take your pumpkin spice and . . . 
     enjoy it in your deodorant, candles, lattes and, well, 
     seemingly everything. Me? When I think of fall flavors, I 
     think about maple syrup. It is actually a bit odd when you 
     consider that spring is the season when producers collect and 
     cook down the sap from the maple trees. Still, I'm going to 
     stick with my convictions, because maple syrup to me evokes 
     New England and flannel and colorful foliage, all of which 
     are the essence of fall.
       And no, it's not just sweet. ``Maple syrup is a lot more 
     complex than sugar,'' says Laura Sorkin, who owns Vermont-
     based Runamok Maple with her husband, Eric. ``There's a lot 
     more nuance than what you would get with granulated sugar.'' 
     The flavor can vary depending on the time of year, but Sorkin 
     says toffee, caramel, honey and apple are among the notes she 
     can pick out. There's also a balance of sweetness and 
     acidity.
       We've all poured maple syrup over our pancakes and waffles. 
     Maybe even a little too much--that stuff is $$$! Here's what 
     you need to know about how to better understand, appreciate 
     and use that liquid gold. (Sorry, Mimi.)
       The grades. In 2015, the U.S. Department of Agriculture 
     updated its maple grades to come into line with standards 
     already adopted by several states and Canada. One of the 
     goals with the new grades was to give consumers better 
     descriptors of flavor and color, as well as allow some of the 
     very dark syrup previously classified as B grade to be folded 
     into the A grade, providing easier access for home cooks. 
     Sorkin says it's worth keeping in mind that the strength of 
     flavor does not always occur in a smooth progression along 
     with color, as you can get a lighter-colored syrup with an 
     intense taste and a darker that's milder.
       Still, here is the rundown of how the government describes 
     the grades aimed at individual buyers (there is a processing 
     grade that can be used by manufacturers making other 
     products), ordered from least to most intense, as well as 
     early to late season:
       Grade A, golden color/delicate flavor: ``Mild maple 
     taste,'' according to the USDA. You might know this from its 
     previous grade, Fancy. The Vermont Maple Sugar Makers' 
     Association suggests serving this grade with the expected 
     breakfast fare or rich dairy, such as ice cream or yogurt.
       Grade A, amber color/rich flavor: ``A full-bodied maple 
     taste of medium intensity,'' the USDA says. If you choose 
     only one grade, Sorkin says, it should be this one. It's 
     great on waffles and pancakes, but the Vermont association 
     also recommends it for salad dressings, cocktails and 
     barbecue sauce.
       Grade A, dark color/robust flavor: The USDA is less helpful 
     on the last two grades, explaining that this grade has a 
     stronger taste than the lighter colors. You don't say. 
     Anyway, our friends from Vermont like to take advantage of 
     its hearty flavor by pouring it over baked fruit and 
     vegetables and using it as a glaze for meat and vegetables. 
     It can also shine in baking.
       Grade A, very dark/strong flavor: You guessed it--``a maple 
     taste that is stronger than robust.'' Okay then! What say 
     you, Vermont? ``When you need a strong maple flavor in a 
     bread or cookie, ice cream, or barbecue sauce, this is the 
     grade of choice.''
       Storage. Keep unopened maple syrup in a cool, dry spot, out 
     of direct light. The Vermont Maple Sugar Makers' Association 
     recommends storing opened maple syrup in the refrigerator. Or 
     to keep it in very good shape, you can freeze it, going 
     through as many freezing and thawing cycles as you want, the 
     group says, as long as you let it thaw completely and stir in 
     any condensation that forms on the top of the syrup.
       Even when properly stored, maple syrup can crystallize. In 
     ``The Clever Cook's Kitchen Handbook: 5,037 Ingenious Hints, 
     Secrets, Shortcuts, and Solutions,'' author David Joachim 
     suggests heating the jar of syrup in a pan of hot water over 
     low heat until the crystals dissolve. (Move the syrup to a 
     glass jar or heatproof bowl if it's in plastic.) Or, try 
     microwaving it for 10 to 15 seconds on medium power. Of 
     course, you can consider it candy and just eat the crystals, 
     too. Joachim says you can salvage moldy maple syrup by 
     scraping or straining out the mold and bringing the syrup to 
     a full boil and returning it to a clean jar or bottle.
       Substituting. ``Maple syrup is about as sweet as sugar, so 
     you can replace it using an equal amount of syrup,'' 
     according to the Vermont-based experts at King Arthur Flour. 
     ``Decrease the liquid by 3 to 4 tablespoons per 1 cup 
     substitution.'' If you're adding maple syrup to a recipe that 
     doesn't call for liquid, you need to increase the flour by 1 
     tablespoon for every \1/4\ cup maple syrup used. KAF 
     emphasizes using room temperature maple syrup, because if 
     it's cold, it can cause other ingredients, including butter, 
     to clump. If you use a darker grade, expect a ``delightfully 
     caramelly'' flavor.
       Flavoring your own. Runamok's eclectic infused syrups 
     include such flavors as hibiscus, makrut lime-leaf, smoked 
     chile pepper and ginger. (Here's a link to a coffee syrup in 
     our archives.) If you're interested in creating your own 
     infusions, especially with whole spices, Sorkin suggests 
     gently heating the syrup and letting the ingredients steep 
     for a few hours. Taste every so often to see whether you've 
     achieved the right level of flavor. Keep in mind that it's 
     better to be conservative than add too much or steep too 
     long.
       Uses. ``I would just love it if people would start thinking 
     beyond pancakes,'' Sorkin says. She notes that honey has 
     really come into its own as an ingredient to be appreciated 
     and used in a variety of ways and hopes the time will come 
     soon for maple syrup. Maple syrup on a cheese board? Go for 
     it! In Vermont, people have been putting maple syrup in their 
     coffee for a long time, and Sorkin says it works in tea, too, 
     particularly a black variety (try it in chai). She is, as you 
     would expect, a proponent of maple syrup in cocktails.
       Sorkin says maple syrup can be lost in flour-heavy baked 
     goods, so she prefers to save it for situations when it can 
     really shine, such as in frostings (buttercream or cream 
     cheese), glazes and a simple syrup applied to a cake. It can 
     be used in a wide variety of savory applications, too, adding 
     just the right balance when played against other flavors. 
     Sorkin, who trained at the French Culinary Institute in New 
     York (now the International Culinary Center), likes to add a 
     drizzle on top of a sweet potato and tahini dip. Her other 
     recipes include maple vinaigrettes, roasted cabbage and 
     crispy tofu. Always worth considering: Maple butter.
       Need some more ideas? Here are a few contenders from our 
     archives:
       Frozen Maple Mousse. This is very much like a no-chum ice 
     cream, which you can drizzle with a bit more maple syrup, 
     naturally.
       Maple Olive Oil Pecan Granola. Here's another way to 
     incorporate maple syrup into your breakfast that does not 
     involve pancakes or waffles.
       Maple Spiced Glazed Nuts. These are definitely worth adding 
     to your party food repertoire--they make an ideal game-day 
     snack.
       Grilled Maple-Marinated Portobello Mushrooms. Maple syrup 
     is paired with soy sauce and earthy mushrooms for an umami-
     rich meatless main.
       Maple-Chipotle Basting Sauce. Consider using a darker grade 
     for this sauce, which is right at home on pork or any other 
     grilled meat.

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