[Congressional Record Volume 165, Number 176 (Tuesday, November 5, 2019)]
[Senate]
[Pages S6386-S6387]
From the Congressional Record Online through the Government Publishing Office [www.gpo.gov]
RECOGNIZING VERMONT'S MAPLE INDUSTRY
Mr. LEAHY. Madam President, Vermont sets the gold standard for the
maple industry, and maple is integral to our State's economy and to our
State's identity. The Vermont families and businesses that keep this
sector vibrant and viable are also an essential part of the fabric of
our State. I am proud to recognize one of those businesses today.
Nestled along the western slopes of Vermont's highest peak, Mount
Mansfield, Runamok Maple is one of the roughly 1500 sugar producers in
Vermont that produce nearly half of the Nation's maple syrup. Owned and
operated by Laura and Eric Sorkin, Runamok Maple exemplifies the
innovation and entrepreneurship that is revitalizing communities across
Vermont.
Maple sugaring is a tradition carried forward and refined by each new
generation of Vermonters. The Sorkins themselves benefited from the
mentorship of nearby sugar producers before launching their own
business a decade ago. In 2016, recognizing an opportunity, they pumped
money and energy into a diversification effort that included a retail
line of flavor-infused and barrel-aged syrups, all packaged and branded
for the direct sales market. Two years later, I was proud to support
funding for the Northern Border Regional Commission that in turn
allowed Fairfax, VT, to expand wastewater infrastructure to Runamok's
new manufacturing home, an old facility that once manufactured Scrabble
game tiles. The improvements enabled Runamok's expansion from 45 to 100
employees and revitalized a part of the historic town.
Through their products, writings, and creativity, the Sorkins and
their outstanding staff are not only producing world-class value-added
products, they are changing how people think about maple syrup. Long
gone are the days when it was considered a mere condiment for pancakes.
I was not surprised, then, to see Runamok Maple featured in a recent
Washington Post article about the many possibilities of Vermont's
sweetest export.
In recognition of the families across our State who continue to keep
this bedrock Vermont sector thriving, I ask
[[Page S6387]]
unanimous consent to have that article printed in the Record.
There being no objection, the material was ordered to be printed in
the Record as follows:
[From the Washington Post, Sept. 2, 2019]
Before You Pour All That Maple Syrup on Your Pancakes, Here's What You
Should Know About It
(By Becky Krystal)
It's fall, so you can take your pumpkin spice and . . .
enjoy it in your deodorant, candles, lattes and, well,
seemingly everything. Me? When I think of fall flavors, I
think about maple syrup. It is actually a bit odd when you
consider that spring is the season when producers collect and
cook down the sap from the maple trees. Still, I'm going to
stick with my convictions, because maple syrup to me evokes
New England and flannel and colorful foliage, all of which
are the essence of fall.
And no, it's not just sweet. ``Maple syrup is a lot more
complex than sugar,'' says Laura Sorkin, who owns Vermont-
based Runamok Maple with her husband, Eric. ``There's a lot
more nuance than what you would get with granulated sugar.''
The flavor can vary depending on the time of year, but Sorkin
says toffee, caramel, honey and apple are among the notes she
can pick out. There's also a balance of sweetness and
acidity.
We've all poured maple syrup over our pancakes and waffles.
Maybe even a little too much--that stuff is $$$! Here's what
you need to know about how to better understand, appreciate
and use that liquid gold. (Sorry, Mimi.)
The grades. In 2015, the U.S. Department of Agriculture
updated its maple grades to come into line with standards
already adopted by several states and Canada. One of the
goals with the new grades was to give consumers better
descriptors of flavor and color, as well as allow some of the
very dark syrup previously classified as B grade to be folded
into the A grade, providing easier access for home cooks.
Sorkin says it's worth keeping in mind that the strength of
flavor does not always occur in a smooth progression along
with color, as you can get a lighter-colored syrup with an
intense taste and a darker that's milder.
Still, here is the rundown of how the government describes
the grades aimed at individual buyers (there is a processing
grade that can be used by manufacturers making other
products), ordered from least to most intense, as well as
early to late season:
Grade A, golden color/delicate flavor: ``Mild maple
taste,'' according to the USDA. You might know this from its
previous grade, Fancy. The Vermont Maple Sugar Makers'
Association suggests serving this grade with the expected
breakfast fare or rich dairy, such as ice cream or yogurt.
Grade A, amber color/rich flavor: ``A full-bodied maple
taste of medium intensity,'' the USDA says. If you choose
only one grade, Sorkin says, it should be this one. It's
great on waffles and pancakes, but the Vermont association
also recommends it for salad dressings, cocktails and
barbecue sauce.
Grade A, dark color/robust flavor: The USDA is less helpful
on the last two grades, explaining that this grade has a
stronger taste than the lighter colors. You don't say.
Anyway, our friends from Vermont like to take advantage of
its hearty flavor by pouring it over baked fruit and
vegetables and using it as a glaze for meat and vegetables.
It can also shine in baking.
Grade A, very dark/strong flavor: You guessed it--``a maple
taste that is stronger than robust.'' Okay then! What say
you, Vermont? ``When you need a strong maple flavor in a
bread or cookie, ice cream, or barbecue sauce, this is the
grade of choice.''
Storage. Keep unopened maple syrup in a cool, dry spot, out
of direct light. The Vermont Maple Sugar Makers' Association
recommends storing opened maple syrup in the refrigerator. Or
to keep it in very good shape, you can freeze it, going
through as many freezing and thawing cycles as you want, the
group says, as long as you let it thaw completely and stir in
any condensation that forms on the top of the syrup.
Even when properly stored, maple syrup can crystallize. In
``The Clever Cook's Kitchen Handbook: 5,037 Ingenious Hints,
Secrets, Shortcuts, and Solutions,'' author David Joachim
suggests heating the jar of syrup in a pan of hot water over
low heat until the crystals dissolve. (Move the syrup to a
glass jar or heatproof bowl if it's in plastic.) Or, try
microwaving it for 10 to 15 seconds on medium power. Of
course, you can consider it candy and just eat the crystals,
too. Joachim says you can salvage moldy maple syrup by
scraping or straining out the mold and bringing the syrup to
a full boil and returning it to a clean jar or bottle.
Substituting. ``Maple syrup is about as sweet as sugar, so
you can replace it using an equal amount of syrup,''
according to the Vermont-based experts at King Arthur Flour.
``Decrease the liquid by 3 to 4 tablespoons per 1 cup
substitution.'' If you're adding maple syrup to a recipe that
doesn't call for liquid, you need to increase the flour by 1
tablespoon for every \1/4\ cup maple syrup used. KAF
emphasizes using room temperature maple syrup, because if
it's cold, it can cause other ingredients, including butter,
to clump. If you use a darker grade, expect a ``delightfully
caramelly'' flavor.
Flavoring your own. Runamok's eclectic infused syrups
include such flavors as hibiscus, makrut lime-leaf, smoked
chile pepper and ginger. (Here's a link to a coffee syrup in
our archives.) If you're interested in creating your own
infusions, especially with whole spices, Sorkin suggests
gently heating the syrup and letting the ingredients steep
for a few hours. Taste every so often to see whether you've
achieved the right level of flavor. Keep in mind that it's
better to be conservative than add too much or steep too
long.
Uses. ``I would just love it if people would start thinking
beyond pancakes,'' Sorkin says. She notes that honey has
really come into its own as an ingredient to be appreciated
and used in a variety of ways and hopes the time will come
soon for maple syrup. Maple syrup on a cheese board? Go for
it! In Vermont, people have been putting maple syrup in their
coffee for a long time, and Sorkin says it works in tea, too,
particularly a black variety (try it in chai). She is, as you
would expect, a proponent of maple syrup in cocktails.
Sorkin says maple syrup can be lost in flour-heavy baked
goods, so she prefers to save it for situations when it can
really shine, such as in frostings (buttercream or cream
cheese), glazes and a simple syrup applied to a cake. It can
be used in a wide variety of savory applications, too, adding
just the right balance when played against other flavors.
Sorkin, who trained at the French Culinary Institute in New
York (now the International Culinary Center), likes to add a
drizzle on top of a sweet potato and tahini dip. Her other
recipes include maple vinaigrettes, roasted cabbage and
crispy tofu. Always worth considering: Maple butter.
Need some more ideas? Here are a few contenders from our
archives:
Frozen Maple Mousse. This is very much like a no-chum ice
cream, which you can drizzle with a bit more maple syrup,
naturally.
Maple Olive Oil Pecan Granola. Here's another way to
incorporate maple syrup into your breakfast that does not
involve pancakes or waffles.
Maple Spiced Glazed Nuts. These are definitely worth adding
to your party food repertoire--they make an ideal game-day
snack.
Grilled Maple-Marinated Portobello Mushrooms. Maple syrup
is paired with soy sauce and earthy mushrooms for an umami-
rich meatless main.
Maple-Chipotle Basting Sauce. Consider using a darker grade
for this sauce, which is right at home on pork or any other
grilled meat.
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