[Congressional Record Volume 162, Number 178 (Friday, December 9, 2016)]
[Senate]
[Pages S7024-S7025]
From the Congressional Record Online through the Government Publishing Office [www.gpo.gov]
100TH ANNIVERSARY OF KOMODA BAKERY
Ms. HIRONO. Mr. President, I wish to congratulate Maui's Komoda Store
and Bakery on their 100-year anniversary. I visited the bakery in
Makawao last month and met the Komoda and Shibuya families who are
carrying on the tradition of serving the Maui community.
In 1916, Takezo and Shigeri Komoda opened a mom-and-pop general
store, selling bread, saimin, and fresh sandwiches primarily to Makawao
town residents. By 1932, they expanded their store and began selling
groceries and other household items. Takezo and Shigeri passed on the
bakery to their sons Takeo and Ikuo, who ran the store for the next 50
years.
While the bakery is what Komoda's is known for today, Ikuo is the
only member of the family who received formal training in 1947 when he
traveled to Minnesota to study baking. Over time, Komoda's transitioned
from a general store to a bakery, serving fresh bread, butter rolls,
and pastries like stick donuts, malasadas, Chantilly cake, and cream
puffs. By the 1990s, Takeo and Ikuo considered retiring and closing the
bakery. However, Takeo's son-in-law, Calvin Shibuya, did not want to
see the family business close. After training with chief baker Ikuo
Komoda, Calvin and his wife, Betty, took over the bakery. Their
daughter, Michele, is now learning the business, the baking from her
father and the retail side from her mother.
Komoda Bakery is an institution in upcountry Maui. Each day, people
line up in the morning to purchase their baked goods. They only make a
set amount each day, so if you don't go early, they oftentimes sell
out.
Many take the delectable treats from Komoda's to neighbor islands to
share with family and friends in the time-honored tradition of omiyage,
or gift. When I visited right before Thanksgiving, which is their
busiest time of the year, the store was bustling with activity, and the
counters were stacked with fruit, pumpkin, and custard pies.
Congratulations to Komoda Bakery on 100 years of success. We thank
the Komoda family and their longtime employees who each day wake early
to prepare the delicious handmade and homemade baked goods enjoyed by
generations.
I ask unanimous consent to have printed in the Record a Maui News
article, which chronicles the Komoda family's dedication and success.
There being no objection, the material was ordered to be printed in
the Record, as follows:
[From the Maui News, Nov. 2, 2016]
Sweet Success at 100: Komoda Celebrates Century of Good Eats
(By Melissa Tanji)
Makawao.--Komoda Store & Bakery is celebrating 100 years of
feeding Maui's appetite, in the beginning with breads and
saimin and now with stick donuts and cream puffs that
residents and visitors can't get enough of.
One hundred years in business is a feat rarely achieved by
Maui's mom-and-pop stores or for any business, for that
matter. The Komodas and their extended family don't know how
the years added up.
``We can't believe it lasted this long,'' said Betty
Shibuya, the granddaughter of the founders Takezo and Shigeri
Komoda. She added that her ancestors would be surprised that
the family has kept the business thriving for a century.
Shibuya's husband and the chief baker, Calvin Shibuya,
joked that he, himself, felt like 100 years old, even though
he's only 73. But his feelings are justified because Mr.
Shibuya starts work at 11:30 p.m.--just to begin the baking.
He doesn't end his day until around 4 p.m. at closing time.
But he's not complaining. He said his schedule is similar
to what the Komoda family endured for decades.
Even at 73, Calvin Shibuya pledges that he and his family
would keep the business chugging along as long as they are
able to keep churning out donuts from the old fried bread
dough recipe along with butter rolls, pies and buns and other
baked goods.
``I've always said we'll (be open) as long as we stay
healthy,'' he said.
This week, the Komoda family is celebrating its milestone
with the public.
The family has been giving away 100 free stick donuts to
customers on a first-come, first-served basis. (The store
opens at 7 a.m.) This will continue on Thursday and Friday.
(The store is closed today, as usual.)
On Saturday, 300 stick donuts will be given out. At noon,
there will be a performance by Zenshin Daiko, a taiko drum
group. A 100th-anniversary dish towel is on sale, and
customers who spend $40 get a commemorative potholder.
Nearby, the Makawao History Museum at 3643 Baldwin Ave. is
hosting an exhibit based on the anniversary. It's open from
10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily, except for Sundays when it opens at
11 a.m.
T. Komoda Store was founded in 1916 as a general store
where the current Polli's Mexican Restaurant is on the corner
of Makawao
[[Page S7025]]
and Baldwin avenues. There was some bread baking, which later
expanded to saimin and sandwiches, the family said.
In 1932, the family purchased its current spot along
Baldwin Avenue. The family said it was more of a general
store catering to Makawao town, selling everything from
fabric, lighting fixtures and groceries.
As World War II loomed before Dec. 7, 1941, Takezo and
Shigeri Komoda anticipated the loss of what they had because
they were not American citizens. So, they transferred the
property and business to Takeo Komoda, their oldest son and
his wife, Kiyoko, who were U.S. citizens, according to Gail
Ainsworth. She does research and writing for the Makawao
History Museum. (Takeo and Kiyoko were Betty Shibuya's
parents.) The store founders had eight children, all of whom
at some point had a hand in the business.
In the early days, the family served food, such as saimin
and egg sandwiches, Betty Shibuya said. But eventually that
was phased out.
In 1947, Takeo Komoda's brother, Ikuo, went to baking
school in Minnesota. He was the only one in the family to
receive professional training. Ikuo Komoda is credited with
developing the cream puff and stick donut. It was under Ikuo
Komoda that Calvin Shibuya trained. He got involved in the
business in the 1990s because the Komoda brothers were aging
and looking for someone to take over. The family considered
closing the business, Calvin Shibuya said.
Shibuya had retired from the U.S. Air Force and was
contemplating a second career as a commercial pilot.
``I didn't want to see the business close,'' Calvin Shibuya
said. He told the brothers not to close the business and
stepped in to help.
``That would be a shame if the business shut down,'' he
said.
Ainsworth called the Komoda family hardworking, though she
added that is typical of mom-and-pop businesses.
``I think they were astute,'' she said. ``They transferred
their property to their son when they needed to, prior to
World War II. They sent another son (Ikuo) to baking school
and expanded their bakery business. They adapted to the
community as it changed. As people started to shop at large
grocery stores, they de-emphasized their store operation.''
Indeed, the family adapted and survived the influx of large
chain grocery stores, along with specialty bakeries on Maui.
They still sell snacks, sodas and hot dogs, but 90 percent of
the business is the bakery, Calvin Shibuya said.
The Komoda homestyle and handmade pastries are a favorite
to generations of Maui residents.
On Tuesday, Shaun Lyons was in the store, a place she had
been to as a kid, and now a grandmother.
Lyons, born to the Baldwin family who lived at Haleakala
Ranch, remembers how her parents made her sit on a scale next
to the front doors as others went shopping. Lyons remembers
her family buying groceries and other necessities on credit
at the store and paying a monthly bill. There were no plastic
credit cards then.
``It was so convenient,'' she remembers.
At one point the Komoda family also had a grocery delivery
service, which in some places was common.
``I think it's so fantastic,'' Lyons said of the
centennial. ``I love all the Komodas and the Komoda family.''
On Tuesday, Lyons was buying some hamburger buns and a
Chantilly cake her 46-year-old son loves. This time, the cake
was for her grandson (her son's son), who was celebrating his
5th birthday on Tuesday.
``This is a great place,'' she said.
Customer satisfaction and enthusiasm for Komoda's baked
goods drive Calvin Shibuya and the rest of the family to work
before sunup and until almost sundown daily.
Typically, Calvin Shibuya starts at 11:30 p.m. making
coconut Danish and turnovers. Around an hour later, he begins
the mixes for the bread and the soft moist butter rolls and
cinnamon rolls.
His daughter, Michele Shibuya, is learning the trade and
helps her father cut the glob of dough for the butter rolls.
Then with a spatula, the butter is spread and, by hand, sugar
is sprinkled on the rolls.
Two other employees begin their day at 1:30 a.m. to help
with the baking.
Usually around 2:30 a.m., Calvin Shibuya begins his work on
the stick donuts. Typically, around 100 dozen are made every
day. On weekends that number doubles.
All by hand, the donuts are put on sticks.
Shibuya said the only mechanical appliances the bakery has
is a mixer and a dough cutter and shaper for their hamburger
and hot dog buns. The cutter and shaper are new additions,
maybe put in around 10 years ago.
Shibuya said the contraption cut down on 75 percent of the
time he and others put in to make the buns. Previously, it
involved cutting the dough and putting in on a scale.
Asked why he doesn't automate more of his equipment to help
with the baking, Shibuya says the way it is now, ``this is
the only way I know.''
When the Komoda brothers were living and working in the
1980s and 1990s, the bakery was churning out 100 to 150 dozen
cream puffs a day. These days, Shibuya makes around 75 dozen
as the main baker. But the cream puffs shells are still made
one by one and placed onto pans with ice cream scoopers.
Shibuya had hoped that Ikuo Komoda, the chief baker, could
have lived to see the 100th anniversary, but he died last
year at the age of 86. His mother-in-law, Kiyoko Komoda died
in August at the age of 95.
Michele Shibuya said her grandmother, Kiyoko, was a fixture
at the bakery and even in her senior years was still at the
Makawao business putting together pastry boxes.
Early in the morning when the baking is done and the bakery
opens, Calvin Shibuya continues to work as his wife and
daughter and others handle the retail operations.
By mid-morning, Calvin Shibuya is making the cream for the
cream puffs and long Johns, all to start the process for the
next day.
``At the end of the day, if everything goes well. It's very
rewarding,'' Shibuya said.
____________________