[Congressional Record Volume 153, Number 161 (Tuesday, October 23, 2007)]
[Senate]
[Pages S13256-S13257]
From the Congressional Record Online through the Government Publishing Office [www.gpo.gov]
KINGDOM GEMS OF VERMONT
Mr. LEAHY. Mr. President, I am pleased to stand before the Senate
today to tell my friends about Vermont's Northeast Kingdom--a place
that is known as much for its natural beauty as the rural and
industrious Vermonters who have settled there.
This region, defined by the three northeastern-most counties of
Vermont that sit between the headwaters of the Connecticut River and
the U.S.-Canadian border, became one of America's first National
Geographic geotourism destinations. The designation highlights the
character and sense of place that has come to define the dozens of
mountain valley communities that sit in Orleans, Essex, and Caledonia
Counties.
My wife Marcelle was born in the Northeast Kingdom, just south of the
Canadian border in the city of Newport. Since then, like many
Vermonters, we have often found ourselves heading to this part of
Vermont to visit friends, go for a hike, or find a special place to
have a meal. The people of the Northeast Kingdom have made this region
of Vermont advance while carefully holding on to the key elements of
their identity. Whether they are crafting furniture from the forests of
the north woods or diversifying their family farm, these individuals
have helped the communities of northeastern Vermont grow.
This autumn, Michelle Edelbaum and Daria Bishop of the Burlington
Free Press published an article about a trip the two of them shared
through the area, and I ask unanimous consent to have printed in the
Record the text of the article offering a glimpse into these ``Kingdom
Gems.''
There being no objection, the materials was ordered to be printed in
the Record, as follows:
[From The Burlington Free Press, Sept. 30, 2007]
Kingdom Gems
(By Michelle Edelbaum)
When trees scream with crimson, gold and orange, head to
the Northeast Kingdom for world-class leaf peeping.
With foliage in mind, photographer Daria Bishop and I spent
a day exploring the towns, shops and people that make the
area special. We strayed from our loose plan to follow
locals' hand-drawn maps down scenic dirt back roads to not-
to-miss destinations.
On our 13-hour tour we didn't reach half the locations on
our list, which included classic attractions Cabot Creamery,
Great Vermont Corn Maze, Stephen Huneck's Dog Mountain and
Fairbanks Museum. But we did visit a handful of gems worth a
stop.
GREENSBORO
Twenty-eight years ago an enthusiastic David Smith and his
wife, Willie, took over Highland Lodge in Greensboro from his
parents and fostered a community-centric gathering place that
hosts out-of-town guests and community gatherings. ``The
Walking Ladies,'' a group of 55 women who range in age from
40 to 86, meet thrice weekly in the dining room for coffee
and muffins after they exercise.
On their recommendation we ate moist, sugar-crusted
blueberry muffins, from-scratch blueberry pancakes and a
fluffy cheese and veggie omelet with McKenzie sausage links.
After breakfast, we set out on the lodge's 30 miles of trails
from a grove of soaring pine trees decorated with colorful
placards of children's artwork, courtesy of the lodge's
summer campers.
[[Page S13257]]
In Greensboro village two stores dominate the retail scene.
The Miller's Thumb, housed in a former grist mill, is filled
with local artwork, fancy kitchen knickknacks, Italian
pottery and antiques. Watch water rushing under the red
building through a plexiglass-covered hole in the floor.
At Willey's Country Store, customer Doug Aronson of
Woodbury declares ``if you can't find it here, you can't find
it anyplace.'' Wine, appliances, groceries, hardware and
clothes are sold at the town institution, housed in a
rambling white building that dates to the 1800s and has been
owned by the Hurst family for five generations.
CRAFTSBURY
Look up as you approach Pete's Greens in Craftsbury. The
roof of the farm's serve-yourself stand is laden with
trailing plants, flowers and herbs. Peek inside at artful
displays of colorful organic vegetables.
Consider yourself lucky if you hit Stardust Bookstore and
Cafe on the idyllic Craftsbury Common during its limited
school-centric hours. The store, run primarily by students
from Craftsbury Academy, sells new and used books, coffee and
espresso drinks inside the quaint 1940s former public
library. Part of the proceeds are given to nonprofit
organizations and granted as scholarships.
Just outside of town down a long dirt road lies Craftsbury
Outdoor Center, on Great Hosmer Pond with 10 kilometers of
trails open for biking and hiking. Ski director John Brodhead
suggests spending an afternoon canoeing, mountain biking,
walking with a naturalist, kayaking or relaxing in an
Adirondack chair by the lake.
GLOVER
Untold treasures lie within Red Sky Trading Co. in Glover.
Owner Cheri Safford's whimsy is on display in the unique and
colorful assortment of vintage house wares, Melmac resin
dishware, trays, china tea cups, garden decor, picture frames
and more, that fill the maroon barn.
Buttery cookies, dense bars and rich chocolate cakes from
Safford's kitchen share counter and refrigerator space with
Vermont cheeses, natural sodas and local produce. Don't miss
Safford's award-winning canned jellies, jams, bread and
butter pickles, chutneys and pickled beets--just like Grandma
made.
Between a bank of beer coolers and a rack of chips at
Currier's Quality Market Inc. stand three stuffed deer and a
black bear; turn the corner into the postal area and you'll
come face-to-face with a 948-pound moose. More than 100
taxidermy animals are on display in the one-stop shop,
including a porcupine, wild boar, ram and British timberwolf.
Jim Currier, who's owned the store for 40 years with his
family, started the ever-growing collection 25 years ago with
a deer head from his father. Hunters with a mount at the
store earn ``bragging rights,'' said Currier's daughter Julie
McKay. Coming soon: a red fox, possum, and snow goose.
By 4 p.m. we hadn't eaten lunch and regretfully skipped
Bread and Puppet Museum and its ``Cheap Art.'' We missed
Mount Pisgah in Barton, with stunning views of Lake
Willoughby, biking in Burke at Kingdom Trails, and a mandarin
orange chicken salad at River Garden Cafe. We also passed on
flat bread and microbrews at Trout River Brewing Co. in
Lyndonville and coffee and chitchat at Miss Lyndonville
Diner.
ST. JOHNSBURY
Instead we split for St. Johnsbury, where local-food-
centric Elements Food and Spirits, like many destinations in
the Northeast Kingdom that have irregular hours, isn't open
on Monday.
At Kham's Thai, chef and manager Souki Luangrath, whose
Essex Junction-based parents own the restaurant, says quality
ingredients are a priority--he even deveins shrimp. Our
refreshing late lunch included fresh spring rolls filled with
crisp veggies, savory coconut Tom Kha soup and saucy panang
curry with chunks of vegetables.
Railroad Street in downtown St. Johnsbury is home to
several dozen independently owned shops and restaurants.
Moose River Lake and Lodge Store sells jewelry with a
Southwestern flair, Adirondack and Amish-style furniture,
fine wine kept in a walk-in vault, art by illustrator Philip
R. Goodwin, quality sportswear and home decor.
Scottie Raymond, formerly an employee at Outdoor Gear
Exchange in Burlington, recently opened Kingdom Outdoors,
which sells technical outdoor wear and gear. Raymond inked
the graffiti-style mural in the skate shop and lounge
downstairs.
During the day, hit Dylan's Caf for creative breakfast and
lunch combinations, the newly opened Village Baker for
artisan bread and pastries, or Boxcar and Caboose for coffee
drinks and books. If you have time, check out PODO Shoes, the
Northeast Kingdom Artisan Guild and Gallery and Frogs and
Lily Pads.
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